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A 

MANUAL 

FOR 

MANAGERS, DESIGNERS, WEHYERS, 

AND 

ALL OTHERS CONNECTED WITH THE MANUFACTURE 
OF TEXTILE FABRICS, 

CONTAINING , 

DEFINITIONS, DERIVATIONS I EXFLUNJITIONS 

OF TECHNICAL TERMS, 

THE USE MADE OF-MMY SUBSTANCES ; 

Rules, Tables, and some Elementary Instructions 
for Beginners. 

by 
ALFRED SPITZLI. 



WEST TROY, N. Y., U. S. A. : 

A. & A. F. SPITZLI, PUBLISHERS. 



/ 

,0) <\ 



A J so 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by 

ALFRED and ADOLPHUS FERDINAND SPITZLI, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



Wm. H. Young, 

STATIONER, TROY, N. Y. 



/ I u -> 



ERRATA. 

Second word, fourth line, page fourteen, read "weaving" instead 
of '' wearing." 

Second line, page 166, read — 

9, * and © for raisers, □ and O for sinkers. 



NOTE 



The plan of this work necessarily involves the mention of 
many business names, but its whole value obviously depends upon 
the entirely disinterested character of that mention. The publish- 
ers therefore wish it to be distinctly understood that no considera- 
tion of any kind has governed the description or notice of places 
of business of manufacturers in this work, except the single purpose 
of giving the reader trustworthy information. Advertisements ap- 
pear in their proper place as advertisements, but nothing in the 
body of the work has been influenced by these advertisements, nor 
is a mention in any instance an advertisement in disguise. 



PREFACE. 



One of the greatest needs of the Textile Interest in the line of 
books is that of a thorough and exhaustive Lexicon, which is not 
encumbered with details of other manufactures. The preparation 
of such a work is a stupendous undertaking, one for which a life- 
time is too short, unless it can be accomplished by aid of many 
works which have gone before. 

To supply a work which will render some such aid, and in the 
meantime furnish information needed by all connected with the 
interest, in a form so convenient that it may be resorted to whenever 
the memory fails to supply a fact with sufficient promptness, is the 
object of the author. 

There has been no effort to introduce new theories; on the con- 
trary, the aim has rather been to furnish the best authenticated facts. 
While the result is in many parts so unsatisfactory that the author 
hopes to be able at some time in the near future to revise and 
enlarge the work, it will be found that space has been made for a 
more full discussion of the important subjects, by confining others to 
a simple definition, or at most a few additional suggestions. Time 
being of great value, the space taken for rules and tables will be 
appreciated. The rules given are all such as can be easily analyzed, 
since shorter ways may be adopted more understandingly when 
these are well comprehended and committed to memory. 

The tables will save many computations and prove invaluable for 
comparisons of measures, weights and values, which are continually 
arising in a factory. 

Finally, feeling that he has not been at liberty to devote to this 
work the time which it really requires, the author respectfully sub- 
mits the result of his labors to the most charitable consideration of 
his fellow-craftsmen, with the firm belief that it will be of much 
service to them, notwithstanding that it might be more complete. 

ALFRED SPITZLI. 



INTRODUCTION 



In publishing another book for the benefit of the textile interest, 
the object is not based upon the vain hope to displace others, or to 
produce one which will in any way injure any work which has gone 
before. Quite the contrary is the case with this work, intended as 
it is to show the use of every book mentioned in it, rather than to 
deter any one from the purchase of any or all of them. Three 
principles have governed the compilation of this work : 

First. Every book written with a good intent and purpose will 
do some good. 

Second. In this age of progress it is no longer possible to keep 
apace with the world without much reading for the purpose of acquir- 
ing the benefit of other's experience, theories and opinions. There- 
fore, while it is folly to place sole dependence upon book know- 
ledge, it is ridiculous to claim ability to do as well without books 
as with them. The interchange of knowledge through books, 
periodicals and newspapers being a necessity, the more that can be 
supported the better. 

Third. A book of this kind, to be really useful to beginners and 
experts, should be brief, filled with authenticated facts, convenient 
in size and arrangement, and of such a character that it will injure 
no one's standing to claim or acknowledge constant use of it as a 
reference. 

The first and second principles require no comment ; in behalf 
of the third, it is quite proper to call attention to the facts that a 
book written for the beginner and expert must contain much which 
for a time will be beyond the beginner, and more which is so familiar 
to the more advanced that they can hardly comprehend why such 
" stuff " should be published. To the former we can recommend 
nothing better than patience, perseverance and a determination to 
surmount every obstacle ; to the latter, patience and charity ; with 
the gentle hint that every man has in his time been brought up 
solid by snags that afterwards proved but a trivial affair ; that what 
is easy to one is difficult for another; to serve many, the one who 
serves, must depend upon the served, to bear shortcomings for 
each other. As regards the convenience of this work, the size and 
alphabetical arrangement of the subject matter is such as to com- 



IO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

mend itself. The character of the book, while it gives elementary 
instructions, is not that of a primer, but rather of a compilation. 

The principal contributors to the work are practical men, and the 
author would have been better pleased had each consented to the 
publication of his name, instead of honoring him with the result of 
their labors. The authors quoted and consulted are those of the 
best and deserved reputation. The books from which abstracts have 
been taken are " Ashenhurst's Arithmetic," Ashenhurst, Ashton, 
Baldwin, Barlow, Burns, Gesner, Johnson, Langewald, Murphy and 
others on Designing and Weaving ; Chevreul on Colors ; Crooks, 
Dick, Napier, Gibson, Smith and others on Dyes and Dyeing ; Baird, 
Leigh and Webb on Cotton Yarn Warping, &c, &c. ; Holdsworth, 
Leroux and others on Worsted, Silk, &c, &c. ; Ure's Dictionary, 
several Standard Encyclopedias and general Lexicons have been 
depended upon for much more general matter pertaining to textile 
manufactures. 

The book which has been thus briefly introduced to the reader is 
not a single man's opinion but a collection of facts which should be 
of some service to any and all. Confidently believing such to be the 
case it is respectfully submitted, with grateful acknowledgement of 
the great and unexpected encouragement already received by the 

PUBLISHERS. ' 



THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 



Whenever or however the conception of a fabric may have 
originated, a definite idea of kind, character and appearance is the 
first formal stage in the progress of manufacture, which will serve 
as a starting point for a general discussion of this subject. From 
here out the next step is like that of the origination of an architec- 
tural piece of work, viz.: to produce working plans which shall in- 
clude all the specifications of materials required, the preparations 
thereof, their construction, and finally the finishing process. Such 
plans are called designs, and one who is competent to produce 
them, and only such an one, can rightly be called a designer. 

No man can claim a full and comprehensive knowledge of all 
branches of textile manufactures ; consequently the best work is 
produced by those who devote their energies to one branch only ; 
these receive the additional appellation of their respective branches, 
as carpet, tapestry, silk, woolen, worsted, cotton, print, or emboss- 
ing designers. Whether the designer of a fabric is entrusted with 
other duties, or not, he should be able to produce the designs of 
fabrics in his special line perfect and entire. This is not always 
called for. There may be certain particulars or specifications in 
the nature of the goods, or capacity of the factories, with which the 
design must comply ; but the ability to proceed from the beginning 
should, nevertheless, be possessed before a position is ventured 
upon. As an instance of limits within which a designer must work, 
we will cite a factory where only certain kinds of yarn can be pro- 
duced ; the stock and yarn in this case are points already settled, 
and will appear as such in a design. The ability to make a design 
which comprehends all the necessities of a fabric from first to last 
can only exist when a thorough knowledge of the many branches 
involved is possessed. To supply such knowledge for each branch 
in print is a task so utterly without limit that every single effort to 
furnish a share will be but a meagre tithe. Indeed, could all the 
necessary knowledge be written — an utter impossibility — there would 
even then remain a necessity for practice in the application, which 
can be obtained only by practical contact with the work and detail 
of every branch. Having shown how imperative and extensive the 
requirements to fit any one for the duties of preparing the designs 



12 SPITZLI'S MANOAL. 

of textile fabrics are, it may encourage many to furnish them with a 
few suggestions. While preparing a design, one must bear in mind 
that the pecuniary object of a deviation from plain goods is to 
make a fabric conform to the customs and tastes of the consumers 
for whom it is intended. To this feature must be added special 
attractiveness, which pleases the senses of sight and feeling, and 
sometimes even those of smelling and hearing. 

As important as any, if not more so, is the consideration of the 
cost of materials and labor required. If these exceed the probable 
value of the fabrics complete, what object can there be in produc- 
ing them ? To exhibit a design, or to run the risk of losing the 
money ? In estimating the probable cost of a piece of goods, the 
designs for which are about to be made, the necessity of favoring a 
large production should never be lost sight of; it is a very import- 
ant feature of manufacturing in this country, and can only be neg- 
lected when some other object than profits is in view. To favor 
production the essential points are : stock that will produce yarn 
readily, and of sufficient strength to endure the subsequent opera- 
tions. Stock and yarn which will best produce the desired effects, 
thus avoiding the manufacture of false effects in finishing, which cost 
money and are never satisfactory. The matter of conforming the 
texture to the yarn is of no little importance, especially where the 
designer's duties are curtailed by specified yarns. A very important 
requirement of the designer is that he produce designs which can 
be successfully manufactured by the factory for which the design is 
intended. This at first seems a needless statement, but a contempla- 
tion of the many kinds of goods attempted by the greater proportion 
of factories in this country, will convince the most incredulous that 
there is a serious defect in the management of styles and patterns in 
American mills. The fact must be admitted, however, that de- 
signers cause but little of this trouble, that they are but a passive 
factor, controlled by those who ought to have a knowledge of tex- 
tures and factories, and often lack them altogether. 

As an illustration we have in mind a factory overfilled with 
machinery purchased for the manufacture of a peculiar kind of 
goods, but this particular kind having been unfashionable for several 
years, an entirely different class of goods was introduced. The first 
class required a firm thread, elasticity was of no great importance, 
consequently the machinery purchased was such as would produce 
the yarn in the most rapid manner possible. The yarn now 
required for the goods in hand should be more perfect, and elasticity 
is an imperative requisite to make the goods right, and for display- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



13 



ing the stock used to the best advantage. In the same factory 
three-fourths of the looms are so light that all heavy goods are, and 
must be, woven with the warp very tight — a serious defect — as the 
contrary should be the case with the above-mentioned fault in the 
yarn. To show how utterly helpless the designer is here, it becomes 
necessary to state that the employers have never been able to realize 
much profit from this mill, consequently, whether they appreciate 
the impossibility of making the goods right, and to the best advan- 
tage or not, they do not feel disposed to spend twenty-five to fifty 
thousand dollars in applying a remedy. The main source of trouble, 
however, is in the manager of the goods in the market. A man who 
seems to be utterly regardless or incapable of comprehending the fact 
that no mill can make everything; that for some reason every mill 
sooner or later gets into a sort of rut even with the best conveniences, 
and once in it, can never be gotten out ; in other words each mill 
seems to be successful with some particular kinds of goods, while 
others at best prove but an indifferent success. Now, if this particu- 
lar market man had some knowledge of factories and textures, he 
would aid the designer in keeping the mill on the styles which are 
least effected by the consequences of the factory defects. He would 
long ago have discovered that several very staple styles have been 
more than satisfactory from this mill, and that $25,000 per annum 
profit every year from these is better than $50,000 one year and 
$75,000 loss the next. In other words, he would keep the mill on 
the fabrics which would build up its reputation and yield a steady 
though smaller profit, instead of trying to make this factory, too 
small for fancies, over-crowded, improperly fitted up, supply him 
with the full assortment he wishes to show, which assortment should 
be made up by five or six factories instead of one. Carpets are 
carpets ; shawls, shawls ; but all silk goods, carpets, shawls, cassi- 
meres, or worsted goods are not alike, nor can all kinds of either be 
made successful by any one concern. 

If then the designs are a want for the conveniences of the factory 
as much as the factory is needed to carry out the designs, the pro- 
cesses involved should be considered and understood by all who 
have any authority in relation to the designs and styles used. 

The order of processes is something as follows : The selection 
of the raw material ; the separation of the material from matter 
which must not enter into the goods, and would injure the ma- 
chinery, yarn and fabric ; the color of the stock, if not right, must 
be made so by dyeing, but this process is in some goods deferred 
until the yarn or cloth can be dyed. Next comes the preparation 



14 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

of the stock for spinning, which includes all the processes of card- 
ing and combing ; also various others of lesser note, but of great 
importance, which go before spinning; preparing the yarn for 
weaving, wearing, and finally the finishing of the goods. The last 
usually includes the cleansing of fabrics, as well as all the subse- 
quent processes. 

Silk and cotton are obtainable in such assortments that the stock 
goes direct from the market to the machinery. Not so with wool 
and many other animal fibers, which can be procured in market 
classified or graded only. These grades must be assorted accord- 
ing to their fineness, length and strength, into sorts or qualities, 
which are usually numbered ; they were formerly, and are yet by 
some, named. This assorting is a branch which requires some 
months of practice before any one can be entrusted with the work. 
(See Assorting.) 

The stock of the proper kind being ready, the washing and dye- 
ing come next, when necessary, as with wool, hair, etc. Cotton is 
not washed in the loose state. Silk is treated entirely different from 
staples in the preparation processes. Before washing or scouring 
wool, it is by some run through a machine called willow or duster 
to .free it of all dust, sand and short rubbish which can be shaken 
out. This makes the scouring liquors do more service, and pre- 
pares the wool in a measure by opening it for a more ready absorp- 
tion of the liquors and final rinsing. The methods of scouring and 
washing are briefly considered under the respective headings. 

Some staples are subjected to machinery for opening and clearing 
of burrs, seeds, etc., etc., in the raw state; others, later in their 
progress, to the carding department. Several of these methods, as 
well as the important processes of carding, spinning, weaving and 
finishing are separately considered elsewhere. The only further 
reference to them called for here is a special exhortation to give 
each and all due consideration. No part of them can be slighted 
or dispensed with if a thorough review and study is undertaken. 

Having thus briefly drawn attention to the extent of the field of 
research to be canvassed by those who wish to be prepared for the 
duties of the designer, we must leave the matter with these sug- 
gestions. The more thoroughly and practically that this prepara- 
tion is attended to, the easier and better will the subsequent labors 
prove. It will not do to fear a little grease upon the hands or sweat 
upon the brow, nor yet some pain in the back, for some things can 
be learned only when done, and done only at the cost of some 
discomfort. 



A SHORT CHAPTER 

OF 

SUGGESTIONS TO BEGINNERS. 



As in every other art or science, all preliminaries in preparing 
any one for the duties of a designer or general manager of a manu- 
facturing establishment should have but one aim — to train and 
discipline the mind, senses and abilities in the proper direction. 
The powers of concentration and continued application must be 
acquired by most men, and not a few find it a hopeless battle ; yet 
without such powers some other business would probably answer 
better. The next important step is to become familiar with a large 
variety of fabrics already in existence. In pursuing this requisite 
study, the first suggestions are easily applied. The best method is 
to obtain samples from every available source, dissect them with 
care, and use each sample as a base of operations, until all the par- 
ticulars are obtained. First, by studying out as many as possible ; 
next, by inquiring for the balance. This mefhod will aid the 
student in asking direct questions, a feature in questioning which 
is a great help to one who asks and the one who is to answer. 
Nothing is more discouraging to a tutor than many questions which 
show a lack of thought on the part of the questioner. Few men 
can refrain from answering questions which show deep and intent 
thought, and few care to be bothered with anything trivial. A little 
further digression will be pardonable here. Young people often 
flatter themselves with the idea that they are thinking, when in 
reality they are only dreaming. The difference is so great that the 
one almost always bears fruit, the other seldom. To obtain 
samples is a matter so easy that they can at times be collected 
much faster than properly dissected and studied. Such surplus is 
not worthless because plenty. Discard worthless samples from the 
first, and preserve good ones with care. 

As each sample is dissected let it be neatly trimmed and fastened 
in a durable book, all the drafts recorded in another, and all the 
general information in regard thereto which has been gleaned from 
any and every source, briefly and correctly recorded in a third, care 
being taken to keep up a system of numbers and page references 



I 6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

which will make search for particulars of any pattern easy. If any 
beginner would realize the importance of this suggestion, let him 
imagine if he can, what he would give for such a collection of books 
compiled by some man of large experience. 

These suggestions are written with the supposition that no one 
will venture to begin designing without some adequate knowledge of 
looms. Should this for any reason have been neglected or post- 
poned, it must be delayed no longer after the decision is fully con- 
cluded to continue the study. 

Good instruments are not only a great aid but much cheer to a 
beginner; better have a few pieces only, and have such as will 
warrant a commendable pride. Having good instruments, the next 
point is to learn their use and application thoroughly. Some have 
the impression that once in possession of the proper instruments all 
will be easy, but like everything else, designers' instruments require 
much practice before their advantages can be known or shown. 

Furthermore, designing being a calling which demands cultivation 
of good taste, this cultivation should show itself in everything; the 
person, books, instruments and surroundings. 

From the earliest beginning the habit of keeping close vigil over 
all processes by constant examination of goods ready for market is 
an advantage that should never be missed if available. So com- 
plete is the general supervision, that managers have been known to 
direct the operations of the factory almost entirely from this point 
of observation with tolerable success. Designing, dissecting, weav- 
ing, etc., etc., are treated very minutely in another part ; to those 
parts reference may be made for special points of information. 

Far the most common fault in manner and method of beginners 
is the impatience they exhibit in everything ; especially is this true 
in younger persons. The necessary time to do anything methodi- 
cally is seldom taken, but the worst phase of this fault is that which 
shows itself when anyone imagines that rapid work is sure evidence 
of familiarity with, and special ability for, the work in hand. 
Such people have more or less deceit in them to commence with, 
they would appear smarter than their own consciousness allows. 
The result of such labor is almost invariably faulty, and the whole 
principle of the method or habit is demoralizing in every sense of 
the word. 

Particularly in designing, or any kindred work, is the old saying 
applicable, " Anything that is worth doing at all, is worth doing 
well." Few things in the designing room can be done well without 
the most thorough preparation. The outside duties, if any, which 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 7 

compel a designer to slight his work are an injury to him and his 
employers, hence we contend that manufacturers do not save so 
much as they imagine when they make one man hold several such 
positions. The wages of one man for a year is sometimes lost by 
one neglect, one hurried piece of work, one error. Such losses are 
attributed to other causes, even by the one who knows better, for 
fear of consequences ; thus " manufacturers go on losing money 
faster than they can save it, at the same time making liars out of 
young men per force. 

To the beginner we would give this advice : Take your time, do 
your work right, never mind what people say or think, lose twenty 
positions because too slow, rather than one for errors or bad work, 
and rather than be one of the many who falsely deny a fault, failing, 
error or even inability, stay in the humblest position; there is more 
honor and satisfaction in it. Large salaries, easy positions and 
great reputations afford no comfort to him who holds his position by 
trick or deceit. And to employers we would say, treat the young 
men accordingly, so that they can be upright. 



Definition, Explanations m Instructions. 



A. 

Aba. — A woolen stuff or fabric manufactured in Turkey. 

Abaca. — Commonly known as Manila hemp. " A species of 
fiber obtained in the Philippine Islands in abundance. Some 
authorities refer those fibers to the palm tree known as the Abaca, 
or Anisa textiles. There seem, indeed, several well known varieties 
of fiber under this name, some so fine that they are used in the 
most delicate and costly textures, mixed with fibers of the pine- 
apple, forming Pina muslins and textures equal to the best muslins 
of Bengal. Of the coarser fibers, mats, cordage and sail-cloth are 
made. M. Duchesne states that the well known fibrous manufac- 
tures of Manila have led to the manufacture of the fibres at Paris 
into many articles of furniture and dress. Their brilliancy and 
strength give remarkable fitness for bonnets, tapestry, carpets, net- 
work, hammocks, etc." (Ure's- Dictionary.) 

Abb. — An old English term for warp yarn. 

Abol'la. — A military robe of thick woolen stuff in use among 
the ancient Greeks and Romans. 

Acescent. — Substances which have a tendency to pass into the 
acid state. 

Acids. — Acids are a class of chemicals which have the property 
of combining with and neutralizing the alkaline bases, thereby form- 
ing salts. The acids of special interest here are : Acetic, Arseni- 
ous, Carbonic, Chromic, Citric, Hydrocyanic, Malic, Muriatic, 
Nitric, Oxalic, Phosphoric, Sulphuric, Tartaric. These are here 
mentioned because important factors in tests, dyeing and printing. 

Acetic Acid, in briefest terms, is Vinegar Acid. Acetimeter, 
Acidimeter, Acetimetry and Acedimetry are terms easily con- 
founded ; alluded to in this connection, their relations are easily 
understood. Acetimeter being an instrument for ascertaining the 
strength of Acetic Acid, an Acidimeter an instrument for determin- 
ing the quantity of acid contained in a free state in liquids. Aceti- 
metry being the art or method of testing acetic acid, Acidimetry 
that of testing and estimating acids in general. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 1 9 

Acidulous Salts — All salts containing acids — any saline compound 
— of which the acetic is the acid constituent, is said to be Acetate. 
Acetate of Copper is Verdigris, Acetate of Lead and Blue Vitrol. 

Arsenious Acid — Arsenic. — The principal use made of it by the 
manufacturer of textile fabrics is best expressed in the words of Mr. 
Alfred E. Fletcher in a letter on, the uses and advantages of aceto 
arsenite of copper, commercially known as Emerald Green. In 
reference to the dangers from evaporations from articles colored 
with it, he says : 

" Were it true that such evaporation or dissemination went on, it 
would indeed afford just cause for alarm, when we reflect that on the 
walls of houses in this country (England) are displayed some hun- 
dred millions of square yards of paper, most of which carries on its 
surface a portion of arsenical coloring matter ; our books are bound 
with paper and cloth so colored, cottons and silks, woolen fabrics 
and leather are alike loaded with it." 

Carbolic and Carbonic Acids are easily confounded by those who 
know nothing of their chemical nature. The former is an oily 
liquid, colorless, a burning taste, resembles creosote and is obtained 
from coal tar. Carbonic acid is composed of one part carbon and 
two of oxygen. In its ordinary condition it is a gas, but may be 
reduced to a liquid or solid state by cold and pressure. It is given 
out by animals in breathing, by liquors while fermenting, by the 
decomposition of all substances, and by the combustion of wood, 
coal, etc. Water will absorb its own weight of it, and more under 
pressure ; combined with lime it constitutes limestone, or common 
marble and chalk. 

Chromic Acid may be obtained nearly pure by adding to a boiling 
saturated solution of bichromate of potash as much oil of vitriol as 
will convert the potash into a bisulphate. Let the whole cool, then 
wash with a little water, stir well and decant. 

Citric Acid in crude crystals is used in calico printing ; is manu- 
factured similarly to tartaric acid. 

Hydrocyanic Acid is more commonly known as prussic acid. 

Hydrochloric Acid. — Chemical name for muriatic acid. 

Malic Acid. — The word malic pertains to apples, consequently 
malic acid is understood to be acid made from the juice of apples. 
Sometimes recommended by dyer,s in connection with certain states 
of fermentation, but not in common use. 

Muriatic Acid consists of one equivalent of hydrogen and one of 
clorine ; hydrochloric acid, formerly called " marine acid " or 
" spirit of salt " because made of sea salt. Much used in dyeing. 



20 SPITZLI'S MAMUAL. 

Nitric Acid. — Corrosive, contains five equivalents of oxygen and 
one of nitrogen. 

Oxalic Acid may be obtained by the action of nitric acid on vege- 
table substances. Well washed sawdust, starch, gum, sugar or any 
others containing no nitrogen, yield the most. Sugar has been com- 
monly used. This is an important acid for dyeing. 

Phosphoric Acid is recommended by some authors for many wants 
of dyers and printers, but is not yet used extensively by the former. 
Finely ground bone ash, digested with oxalic acid and water, yield 
phosphoric acid. 

Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of VitroL was formerly procured by the 
distillation of dried sulphate of iron called green vitriol. This 
method is now superseded by the combustion of sulphur with niter. 

The affinity of sulphuric acid for water is very strong. An in- 
teresting illustration is the fact that, when exposed to the atmos- 
phere in an open saucer, it will imbibe one-third its own weight 
in twenty-four hours. This acid is used in great quantities by 
dyers. 

Tartaric Acid is obtained from tartar. The method would be 
very simple but for the great variation in tartar or argols. 

Adulteration. — The debasing any product of manufacture, 
especially chemical, by the introduction of cheap materials. 

Affinity. — The chemical term denoting the peculiar attractive 
force which produces the combination of dissimilar substances. It 
is often called elective attraction, to distinguish it from corpuscular 
or cohesive attraction, by which particles of like kinds of matter are 
combined; and because it displays the power of selecting its prefer- 
able associates. 

Ageing. — The fixing of mordants by age. Instructions may be 
found in Crook's " Handbook of Dyeing and Calico Printing," pp. 
280. 

Albumen. — Animal and vegetable. Used in printing establish- 
ments, sometimes in sizing and cements. No satisfactory substitute 
has yet been found for all purposes. 

Alcohol. — Alcohol is produced by distillation of vegetable 
juices and infusions of a saccharine nature. Its principal use in 
factories is that of a solvent. As the amount of water purchased in 
the lower grades is out of proportion with the range of prices, it is 
economy to buy the best and add water to suit. The spirits com- 
mercially known as wood alcohol serve well for many purposes, and 
such is the odor and taste that workmen are not so sorely tempted 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 21 

to imbibe it. Some recommend the addition of methyl to alcohol 
to prevent its use as a beverage either in full strength or dilluted- 
This is no injury to the required properties of the spirits. For 
many colors the addition of a little orange shellac is an advantage. 

Alder (Anne. Fr. Erie. Germ. Aluns Glutinose, Lin.) — A tree, 
different species of which are indigenous to Europe, Asia and 
America. The wood of this tree, when properly seasoned, makes 
the best " Top Rolls " for spinning and drawing frames. The 
American Elder is another wood — a certain newspaper article to the 
contrary notwithstanding. 

Alkali. — Potash and soda were for some time confounded 
together, and were hence called alkalis. Ammonia was subse- 
quently distinguished as the volatile alkali, potash and soda being 
fixed alkalis. 

Alkalimeter. — An instrument for measuring the alkaline force or 
purity of any of the alkalis of commerce. 

Alkalimetry. — The object of alkalimetry is to determine the 
quantity of caustic alkali or of carbonate of alkali contained in 
the potash or soda of commerce. 

Alizarin or Alizarine (or lizaric acid) is the most important 
and the most valuable coloring matter contained in madder. It is 
the only one which yields fast dyes capable of resisting the operation 
of cleansing. By a series of experiments made by Schutzenberger 
with variously-mordanted cloths, submitted afterwards to dye-becks, 
containing madder and its commercial preparations, it has been fully 
proved that in these dyed shades — Turkey-red included — alizerin 
alone is present. Hence, it is inferred that alizerin pre-exists in the 
madder-root, and is not a product of any subsequent decomposition. 
(Ure's Dictionary.) 

Alloy. — Alloy is the proportion of a baser metal mixed with a 
finer or purer. 

Aloe {Alois, Fr.; Glauindes aloe, Ger.) — In botany a genus of 
the class Hexandria monogynia. There are many species, all natives 
of warm climates, some furnishing useful fibers, others a dye. 

Alpaca (Alpaga, Fr.) — An animal of Peru, of the Llama species ; 
also the name given to a woolen fabric woven from the wool of this 
animal. This fabric is now very successfully made in this country, 
but the highest lusters are still imported. Fabrics made with other 
fibers, made to resemble the genuine, are sold under the same 
name. 



2 2 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Alum (Alun, Fr.; Alaun, Ger.) — A saline body or salt, consist- 
ing of alumina, or the peculiar earth of clay united with sulphuric 
acid, and these again united with sulphate of potash or ammonia. 
In other words, it is a double salt consisting of sulphate of alumina 
and sulphate of ammonia. The common alum crystallizes in octa- 
hedrons, but there is a kind which takes the forms of cubes. It 
has a sour or rather subacid taste, and is peculiarly astringent. 
(Ure's Dictionary.) 

Alumina. — The pure earth of clay, or argillaceous earth. It is 
the oxide of the metal aluminum, the basis of the aluminous salts, 
and the principal constituent of porcelain, pottery, bricks and tiles, 
and not "frequently used in dye houses," as stated in a recent work 
on dyeing. 

Alum, Native. — This term includes several compounds of sul- 
phate of alumina with the sulphate of some other base, as magnesia, 
potash, soda, the protoxides of iron, manganese, etc. 

Alum Shale. — The chief natural source from which the alum of 
commerce is derived in some countries. It occurs in a remarkable 
manner near Whitby, in Yorkshire, and at Hurlet and Campsie, near 
Glasgow. 

Am a. — Saxon word for the loom beam. 

Amber. — The substance amber is of little account to textile 
manufacturers, but the word is often used as the name of a beauti- 
ful, delicate shade of yellow. 

Amianthus. — A mineral in silky filaments, more commonly 
known as Asbestus. 

Ammonia. — A chemical compound, called also volatile alkali. 
This substance, in its purest state, is a highly pungent gas, possessed 
of all the mechanical properties of the air, but very condensable with 
water. It consists of three volumes of hydrogen and one of 
azote condensed into two volumes ; and hence its density is 0.591, 
atmospheric air being 1000. By strong compression and refrigera- 
tion it may be liquified into a fluid, whose specific gravity is 
0.76, compared to water, 1000. Ammonia is generated in a great 
many operations, and especially in the decomposition of many 
organic substances, by fire or fermentation. Urine left to itself for 
a few days is found to contain much carbonate of ammonia, and 
hence this substance was at one time collected in great quantities 
for the manufacture of certain salts of ammonia, and is still used for 
its alkaline properties in making alum, scouring wool, etc. When 
woolen rags, horns, bones and other animal substances are decom- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



23 



posed in close vessels by fire, they evolve a large quantity of 
ammonia, which distils over in the form of a carbonate. The main 
source of ammonia now in this country, for commercial purposes, is 
the coal gas works. A large quantity of watery fluid is condensed 
in their tar pits, which contains, chiefly, ammonia combined with 
sulphureted hydrogen and carbonic acid. When this water is 
saturated with muriatic acid and evaporated it yields muriate of 
ammonia, or sal ammoniac, somewhat impure, which is afterwards 
purified by sublimation. (Ure's Dictionary.) 

Amorphous {without shape). — Said of mineral and other sub- 
stances which occur in forms not easy to be defined. 

Analysis. — The art of resolving a compound, substance, texture 
or machine into its constituent parts. " Every manufacturer should 
so study this art, in the proper treatises, and schools of chemistry 
or mechanics, as to enable him properly to understand and regulate 
his business." And designers have especial need to study the 
analysis of the many textures with which they come in contact, as 
this soon educates the mind to a quick perception of a texture 
without the long and tedious method of dissecting every pattern 
entirely. The analysis of colors is a study which properly belongs 
to the designer as well as the dyer. 

Aniline. — An organic compound, which may be procured in sev- 
eral ways : First, when isatine is fused with solid hydrate of 
potash ; second, when to an alcoholic solution of benzine a little 
-zinc and muriatic acid is added; but it is obtained best from coal 
tar, which is to be distilled in a large iron retort, and the successive 
products to be separately received, especially the latter and denser 
ones. This heavy tar oil is to be strongly agitated along with 
muriatic acid in a glass globe. The acid solution contains the 
aniline, which, being of an alkaline nature, is called a volatile, base. 
It must be subjected to an operose process of purification with milk 
of lime, etc., too complex to be detailed here, as no useful applica- 
tion of it in the arts has hitherto been made. Dr. Hofmann has 
written many elaborate papers upon aniline and its saline combina- 
tions. — (Ure's Dictionary). Gibson, in his remarks on " Aniline 
and Aniline Colors," says : "Asa general thing, we find that most 
of the aniline colors are not soluble in water; the blues are the 
most insoluble ; the violets or purples come next ; the reds are 
sufficiently soluble for dyeing in boiling water. The solvents for 
most of the aniline colors are alcohol, acetic, sulphuric and tartaric 
acids. When alcohol is used as the solvent, its proportion we find 



24 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

variable with the kind of dye or substance it has to dissolve. I 
find that thirty-five parts of alcohol to one of blue, and twenty-five 
parts of alcohol to one of violet, are good proportions. The iodine 
blues, where the iodine has been left (in the colors) will require a 
less quantity of alcohol to dissolve them, and the same may be said 
of the violets. All aniline colors will precipitate by adding a solu- 
tion of tannin (sumach or nut galls) to them, but can be dissolved 
again in alcohol, acetic acid, or diluted oil of vitriol. There have 
been several methods adopted to do away with alcohol as a solvent, 
such as decoctions of certain roots, but these methods have not 
been very successful. Concentrated sulphuric acid, with or with- 
out the aid of heat, will dissolve the aniline blues or violets, and by 
the addition of a large amount of water it will be rendered soluble 
in hot water ; but if you should have your oil of vitriol too hot 
when dissolving the blue analine, it will impair their fastness. The 
soluble blues or violets are colors that have been treated with sul- 
phuric acid to make them more soluble, and I warn dyers against 
them, as we all know that too much solubility is a detriment to 
dyeing fast colors, but for yarns and flannels it is not so objection- 
able. The colors obtained from phenic acid and napthaline are 
often more soluble than those from aniline. The impurities in 
aniline are, as a general thing, sugar, salt, arsenic, resinous and 
tarry substances. Sugar and salt you will find in the reds and 
violets mostly. To detect this fraud is simple : Put a small 
quantity of the solid dye in a test tube, then add alcohol and shake 
it well. Let it stand for a few minutes, then pour it off carefully, 
leaving the residuum. Add some more alcohol, and so repeat the 
operation until the dye is all dissolved, when the sugar or salt will 
be found at the bottom of the test tube ; those substances, not being 
soluble in alcohol, will of course settle to the bottom." 

Annealing or Nealing {Le recuit, Fr.; das an/assen, Germ.) — A 
process by which glass is rendered less frangible ; and metals, which 
have become brittle, either in consequence of fusion or long- 
continued hammering, are again rendered malleable. 

Annotto. — This shrub was originally a native plant of South 
America, but is now cultivated in St. Domingo and the East Indies. 
It is called by botanists bixa orellana, and grows to the height of 
eight or ten feet, and never exceeds twelve feet. The leaves are a 
reddish brown color, about four inches long. The stems of the 
leaves are made into ropes by the natives. According to Dr. John, 
the following ingredients are the composition of annotto : 



SPITZLFS MANUAL. 25 

Coloring and resinous matters 28.0 

Vegetable gluten 26 . 5 

Lignine 20 o 

Extractive coloring matter 20.0 

Matter resembling gluten and extractive 4.0 

Aromatic and acidulous matter 1.5 

100. o 

Muriatic acid has no action upon annotto. Nitric acid will 
decompose it and form several compounds. Sulphuric acid gives it 
a blue color, resembling indigo, but will change from blue to a dark 
purple. Alkalies give it a clear orange color. Chromic acid pre- 
cipitates a deep orange tint. Annotto is easily dissolved in alkalies, 
in which solution it is used in the dyehouse. The alkalies that are 
most used to dissolve annotto are potash or soda-ash, and, if light 
shades are wanted some dyers use soft soap in the solution. Some 
keep a stock of liquor on hand, but I have found it to be better if 
newly made. My mode of preparing annotto is this : To a barrel 
of water take fifteen pounds of annotto, four pounds of carbonate of 
soda, three pounds of soft soap ; boil it until the annotto is all in solu- 
tion (dissolved). The colors given by annotto are fugitive, if 
exposed to the light and air. Acid or alkalies cannot completely 
destroy the colors dyed by it. Good annotto is of a lively red color. 
(Gibson.) 1 

Anthracite. — A variety of coal containing a larger proportion 
of carbon and less bituminous matter than common coal. (De la 
Beche.) 

Anti-Attrition or Anti-Friction Composition. — Various 
preparations have been, from time to time, introduced for the pur- 
pose of removing, as much as possible, the friction of machinery. 
Black lead, or plumbago, mixed with a tenacious grease, has been 
much employed. Peroxide of iron, finely divided haematite, etc., 
have also been used. The manufactures of the Dixon Crucible Co. 
of Jersey City, N. J., can safely be recommended for this purpose. 

Anti-Friction Metal. — Tin and pewter in different proportions 
are much used. Babbett's metal, about fifty parts tin, five antimony 
and one copper, is very common in this country. Another formula 
for the same composition is : Melt four pounds of copper, add by 
degrees twelve pounds of best Banca tin, eight pounds of regulus of 
antimony and twelve pounds more tin. After four or five pounds 
of tin have been added, reduce the heat to a dull red, then add the 
remainder of the metal as above. This produces the composition 
termed hardening ; of this take one pound and melt with two pounds 



26 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

of Banca tin to produce the metal for use, which makes the complete 
proportions one part copper and two parts of regulus antimony and 
twenty-four parts tin. Tin, copper and spelter are used. When 
compositions are too soft they will not do for heavy pressure. 

Aqueous Tincture. — Solutions of solids diluted with water. 

Archil. — This comes to the dyer in casks containing a violet or 
crimsoned colored liquor and a large quantity of weed. This weed 
is called Lichen Roccella, a species of s<2a weed or moss ; the best 
sort comes from the Cape de Verde Islands, but it is found on the 
coasts of Sweden, Ireland and Wales. The coloring matters of the 
lichens are known in commerce as the following : First, as a pasty 
matter called archil; second, as a red powder called cudbear. The 
mode of preparing archil is by grinding them to a pulp with water; 
they are then thrown into liquor containing quick lime and am- 
monia; after standing a few days both the plant and liquor are put 
into casks, and it is thus received by the dyer. When it is two 
years old its coloring properties are fully developed ; after that time 
it begins to deteriorate. It gives very blooming but fugitive colors* 
and is not much used in woolen dyeing, excepting for blooming 
mulberries, dahlias, etc., and for bottoming for reds, safflowers and 
cochineal colors, etc., it gives a depth and beautiful tint to the 
colors so dyed. In 1857, Mr. Marnas of Lyons discovered a pro- 
cess to make with this dyestuff a color that was beautiful and fast 
and called the color French Purple; it was produced in the follow- 
ing manner : " Powdered lichens are macerated with lime water, 
in order to render soluble the coloring matter, which combines with 
the lime. After filtration, muriatic acid is added, which saturates 
the lime and causes the coloring substance to separate in a gelatin- 
ous state, which is washed and dissolved in hot ammonia. The 
solution is very slow, as it requires from twenty to twenty-five days, 
and a temperature of 153 ° Fahrenheit. The ammoniacal liquid, 
which has become violet, is then precipitated by chloride of cal- 
cium ; a purple lake is then produced, which is the French Purple. 

Acids change the color to a . . Bright Red. 

Alkalies " " Blue. 

Rock Salt gives it a Crimson Tint. 

Sal Ammoniac Ruby Red Tint. 

Crystals of Tin Red Tint. 

Bi-Sulphate of Copper Cherry Brown color. 

Argols. — Crude Tartar ; an acidulous salt from which cream of 
tartar is made. It exists in the juice of certain fruits, notably the 
grape; is deposited from wines upon the sides of the casks. The 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



27 



Germans call it Wein Stein (Wine Stone). It is very commonly 
used in dyeing, in various forms. 

Arras Tapestry. — A line of tapestry fabrics named from Arras 
in France. 

Assorting or " Sorting." — The sorting of various kinds of stock 
is an important branch of manufacturing. In some staples it is done 
before the raw material is offered for sale to the manufacturers, but 
particularly in wools quite the contrary is the case, even the grading 
or classifying being frequently very imperfectly done in these. The 
assorting of wool is also the most intricate. When well done it im- 
plies attention to the fineness, length, strength, state or condition, 
and part of the fleece from which it came. For fineness alone it is 
customary to make from three to eight sorts. For length two to four 
— according to the work for which it is assorted, or there may be a 
short, medium and long sort. The assorting for strength is carried 
on very differently in various places ; the most common practice is to 
throw a tender lock into the short sorts ; in some mills they must 
also be thrown to one grade lower in fineness than if they were full 
up in strength. This is not a good practice, as a lot which 
happens to have much tender wool will vary the quality of the sorts 
too much. When such a lot is purchased it is better to make a 
strong and a tender sort, to ascertain in what proportions the differ- 
ence exists, giving the manager an opportunity to control the use of 
it. The matter of " State or Condition " refers to the health and 
cleanliness, the impurities being natural grease, burrs, seeds and 
sand. The part of the fleece from which it came is also considered 
first in relation to fineness, and then as to condition, for the wool 
from different parts of the fleece is very different in its nature, some 
of it being little better than hair. Of assorting wool the fact re- 
mains, efforts to the contrary notwithstanding, that it is too import- 
ant to be slighted by carelessness or false economy. Even work, 
good work, and increased product, yield a return to which a few 
pennies per pound are not a comparison, and yet many mills suffer 
throughout from this evil in the very beginning. Assorting yarn 
is another important branch in manufactures, but only practical 
here and there. An experienced hand can assort all the yarn 
from quite a large factory, detect all that is imperfect, reject 
that which has been made, and give proper notice that the defect 
may be corrected and so save thousands of dollars ; yet to save 
$500 or $600 per year this duty is altogether dropped, given 
into the hands of heedless youth, infirm or blinded age, or 
perhaps to an overseer who has enough else to do. Assorting waste 



6 


16 


6 


16 


ii 


16 


18 


5* 


I 


J32 



28 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

should not be neglected in any factory. The wages are returned 
with a rich increase if this is attended and done judiciously. As- 
sorting rags is a department of some woolen mills as well as paper 
mills. When shoddy is made this is the first essential process. 
Dark and light, all wool and part cotton, thick and thin, old and 
new, must all be separated to attain the best results. Rags contain- 
ing silk threads are usually thrown with those containing cotton. 

Astrakhan. — The name of a country, but sometimes used as a 
name for yarn made of Astrakhan wool. 

Avoirdupois Weight. — The standard avoirdupois pound of the 
United States is the weight of 27.7015 cubic inches of distilled 
water, at 39. 83 Fahr., the barometer being at 30 inches. 
Avoirdupois Weight — Equivalents of in Troy Weight. 

Avoirdupois. Lbs. Oz. Dwt. Grains. 

I Ton = 2922 2 
1 Cwt. = 146 1 
1 Qt. = 34 o 
1 Lb. ==12 

I Oz. ; = 
1 Dr. = 

Avoirdupois Weight — Equivalents of in Apothecaries' Weight. 

, Apothecaries , 

Avoirdupois. Lbs. Oz. Dr. Scr. Gr. 

I Lb. =1242 O 

I Oz. = 7 17I 

I Dr. = 1 7?¥ 

Avoirdupois Weight — Expressed in Grams or Metrical. 

Avoirdupois. Grams. 

I Ton = 1,015,938.84 = 1,016 Milliers. 

1 Cwt. = 50,796.94 = 5,080 Myriagrams. 

1 Qt. = 12,699.23 = 1,270 Myriagrams. 

1 Lb. = 453-54 = 4.535 Hectograms. 

1 Oz. = 28.34 = 2,834 Dekagrams. 

1 Dr. = 1.77 

Axminster Carpet. — The manufacture of Axminster carpets is a 
mere modification of the Persian method, for the worsteds are only 
knotted to the warp threads. They derive their name from a town 
in Devonshire, but the seat of manufacture has long been removed 
to Wilton. 

Aylesham Cloth. — The linen manufacture became well estab- 
lished in Norfolk, and Aylesham became noted for its flaxen fabrics. 
"The Fine Cloth of Aylesham," "The Aylesham Linens" and the 
" Aylesham Webs," are frequently mentioned in old records. Eng- 
lish weavers, it is said, knew how to work artificially designed and 
well figured webs. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 29 

B. 

Backing. — This word is frequently used as an abbreviation for 
Backing Fabric, Backing Yarn, etc., etc. 

Backing Fabric. — Backing Fabrics are rare, except on woolen 
and worsted goods. There are many other goods having several 
fabrics one upon another, not for the purpose of backing, but to 
keep certain yarns practically out of sight when not needed to com- 
plete the face fabric. In other words, parts of all the fabrics are 
necessary to make the face fabric complete. A backing fabric is 
merely an addition to increase the weight without changing the face 
fabric. The elementery principles involved in adding backing 
fabrics are illustrated under the head of Textures. A few common 
textures, with a backing filling tacked into the fabric are repre- 
sented below. Warp yarn may be put in, in a similar manner, but 
as the yarn is hard, and the number of threads greatly increased, 
the result is not satisfactory. 

Backing Yarn. — Backing yarn is usually made of a cheaper 
grade of stock, but it will not pay to have the stock so poor as to 
go bad, whether in warp or filling Neither is it safe to be careless 
about evenness, twist or color. The matter of uneven backing yarn 
is serious, because the effects of it usually show through. The 
trouble may not be so serious if in the warp, but in the filling it is 
very bad. The makeshift commonly resorted to — more shuttles — 
is frequently unavailable if the face calls for several also. The 
matter of twist is quite as important for backing as face. On most 
goods it should be as soft as possible, and still have the yarn weave 
good. The color of backing is often of little account in the esti- 
mation of manufacturers, but specky, rusty or faded backs will con- 
demn a piece, sometimes even before a customer has seen the 
face. 

Balance of Cloth. — This is a term which is capable of wide 
interpretation. The general interpretation which is put upon it is 
the proportion in which the warp and weft stand to each other. 
But if definite rules were laid down according to this interpreta- 
tion, one cloth might be perfection, and another cloth, according to 
the same rule, might be anything but perfection. Yet to all appear- 
ance, and for the different purposes to which they were to be 
applied, and according to the principles upon which the two cloths 
were constructed, one might be as perfect a sample of a cloth as 
the other. Again, the interpretation may be a wider one, and it 
may be said that a properly balanced cloth is one in which the 



30 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

warp threads are set at a certain distance from each other, accord- 
ing to their diameter and weight, and the proportion of weft to 
warp which existed in the cloth. This interpretation would be a 
perfectly correct one, and might be carried out in its entirety, but 
the particular distance of the threads from each other, or the pro- 
portion of weft and warp, which might be taken as a basis, could 
only be taken for the one particular class of fabric to which it 
applied, because although that proportion may be all that could be 
desired for one fabric, experience teaches us that it could not be so 
for all fabrics, therefore no fixed rule could possibly be laid down 
which would be applicable to all cases ; but, the rule being found 
for any one class of fabric, it would be applicable to all fabrics of 
that class. Suppose we are dealing with a plain cloth, in which the 
warp and weft are both of the same material, and that the warp is 
so set in the reed that the diameter of the thread and the space 
between the threads are equal, the weft threads are equal in thick- 
ness or counts to the warp threads, and there are the same number 
per inch both ways. Then the cloth maybe truly said to be equally 
balanced; and whether the material be woolen, cotton or linen, the 
cloth will be perfect in its construction and will be made on the 
truest principle. But it frequently happens that to produce special 
efforts this principle must be departed from. For instance, it may 
be desired to produce a corded effect, the cord to run either length- 
wise or across the piece, a different method must necessarily come 
into operation. We will wish to make a poplin, in which it is 
desired to have a decided cordy character, the cords running across 
the piece ; instead of the warp threads having a space between them 
equal to the diameter of the threads, they must be set very closely 
together, and the weft threads must be some distance apart, other- 
wise the clear cord could not be preserved. But although it is 
necessary that the weft threads be some distance apart, that dis- 
tance must not be too great or the cord will again be destroyed. 
Then from this it must be concluded that the warp threads must be 
set as closely as possible without being too crowded, and the weft 
threads must be driven as close together as the crossing of the weft 
threads will permit, and the more carefully this is observed the 
more perfect will the appearance of the cord be, and this will be 
materially increased if the weft be proportionately thicker than the 
warp. But it having been determined what sett of reed for a given 
count of yarn will produce the best lesult, it is easy to determine 
what reed will suit any other count of yarn to produce the same 
results. Then suppose that the cord, instead of running across the 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, 3 I 

piece, is intended to run the length of the piece, the procedure will 
be the reverse of the previous one — that is, the warp threads must 
be further apart, and the weft as close together as possible ; and if 
the bulk and distance apart of the warp threads be increased, and 
the bulk and distance apart of the weft threads diminished in a 
proportional degree, the clearness and boldness of the cord will be 
increased accordingly, so that in both cases the proposition laid 
down will hold good. From these two examples another conclusion 
must be drawn. In the first the warp preponderates largely on the 
surface of the fabric, and in the second the weft preponderates ; and 
we have seen that as the warp or the weft preponderates it must 
be increased in quantity, and that which is least seen must be de- 
creased in quantity — that is, in the number of threads per inch. 
This rule holds good, not only for plain cloths but also for any 
other make of cloth. If we turn, for example, to twilled cloths, in 
which some quantity of warp and weft are visible on the face, and 
in which the warp and weft are of the same material and thjckness, 
then the same rule applies as in plain cloths, viz., that there should 
be the same number of threads one way as the other. But twilled 
cloths differ very materially from plain cloths in this respect, viz.: 
that from the very construction of the cloth the threads must 
be closer together for the same thickness of thread than for plain 
cloth, because in a plain cloth the warp and weft threads cross each 
other, and are interwoven at every pick ; whereas in a twill cloth 
they may pass over a number of threads before they are interwoven ; 
therefore the greater the number which are passed over before the 
interweaving, the closer or thicker the threads must be to pro- 
duce an approximate firmness of texture. Hence it is that twilled 
cloths are so much better adapted for producing heavy, bulky 
fabrics. In making twilled cloths, the warp or the weft may be 
made to preponderate on the face of the fabric in two distinct ways : 

First — In the same manner as in plain cloths, by bringing the 
warp threads closer together and putting in fewer picks, at the same 
time decreasing the thickness of one thread and increasing the 
thickness of the other, or by increasing the distance apart of the 
warp threads, and putting more picks, again increasing the bulk of 
one and decreasing that of the other. 

Second — By bringing one or the other more to the surface in the 
order of working, it must also preponderate in a like degree in the 
number of threads per inch, or in the actual quantity of the 
materia], and it is only when that is done that the cloth can be 
properly balanced. We can have no better illustration of this rule 



32 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



than in some of the best examples of satin cloths, in which the rule 
will be found to be observed to the last degree. In any cloth in 
which this is not done, not only will the cloth have an unpleasant 
appearance, but the effect of the pattern is marred considerably also. 
These observations apply more especially to fabrics in which the 
warp and weft are of the same materials, but they apply also to 
fabrics in which the warp and weft are of different materials ; in the 
latter case, however, attention must be paid to the nature of the 
material, their density, and their adaptability to blend or assimilate 
with each other, because the relative proportion of warp and weft, 
thickness, ends per inch, etc., in one material may be quite correct, 
if both warp and weft are the same, but if the warp be of one 
material and the weft of another, then a decided change may take 
place in their combination. Not only will this be so if one of the 
threads be vegetable and the other animal substance, but it may be 
equally so if they are both either animal or vegetable. The com- 
bination of a woolen thread with a cotton thread would produce a 
very different effect from the combination of worsted with cotton, 
although in both cases it is a combination of animal and vegetable." 
(Ashenhurst.) 

Bandanna. — A style of calico, in which white or brightly colored 
spots are produced upon a red or dark ground. It seems to have 
been practised from time immemorial in India, by binding up firmly 
with thread, those points of the cloth which were to remain white or 
yellow, while the rest of the surface was freely subjected to the dyeing 
operations. The European imitations have now far surpassed, in 
the beauty and precision of the design, the oriental pattern ; having 
called into action the refined resources of mechanical and chemical 
science. (Ure's Dictionary.) 

Banding, or Bands. — The cordage used to drive spindles. All 
bands on a machine and on like machines in the same factory 
should be made of the same yarn, twisted and gauged with care. 
The practice of using all kinds of old odd yarns for bands has 
caused much uneven work that could not otherwise be accounted 
for. To keep the tension on bands throughout the machinery per- 
fectly even, and alike, requires constant watching, not by children, 
but by competent and responsible persons. To renew bands regu- 
larly is another necessity if even work is wanted. After many 
bands are badly worn the difference of new ones (which never draw 
the same as the old) will soon make bad work. It is better to 
change the whole set. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



BACKING FILLING TACKED INTO FABRIC. 

(See " Backing Fabric," page 29.) 



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34 SriTZLI'S MANUAL. 

Bar Loom. — The looms known by this name are considered the 
first power looms that proved successful. 

Barwood. — A hard resinous wood brought principally from 
Sierra Leone. Is of similar nature for use in dyeing as camwood 
and sanders. Is used in a ground state, gives a permanent coloring 
matter, with or without mordants, is employed for deep sombre 
colors and requires much boiling to extract the dye. 

Baudekin or Baldekin. — A rich cloth used in Mediaeval times, 
named from Baldak or Bagdad. 

Bayeux. — A well known tapestry which was said to have been 
the work of Matilda, the wife of the Conqueror, and her assistants. 
Some fabrics having a faint resemblance to the above are occasion- 
ally given this name. 

Bead Lams and Standards. — Old time mounting of bead 
harnesses, for gauze or cross weaving, on hand looms. 

Bead Loom. — A loom fitted up for cross weaving by means of 
beads in the harnesses. 

Beaming. — This is the process of putting the warp yarn upon 
beams. When beaming from chains it is necessary to pass the yarn 
through a set of reeds. With the more recent machinery for warp- 
ing, chains are dispensed with, consequently this precaution is now 
seldom necessary except for certain kinds of work. Great care 
must be taken to lay out the warp just right in width, to fit between 
the heads of the beams, unless the latter are adjustable, in which 
case the adjustment is a nice point often neglected. The speed 
while beaming should be very regular; if not, some fabrics will 
show the unevenness. Belt slipping is the most common cause of 
such unevenness in speed, and should be prevented. 

Beavers. — Beavers are a class of heavy woolen goods, fine cloth 
face, and when made right are very nice and durable. The color 
is an important feature in the attractions of a beaver. Thorough 
fulling, cropping, boiling and gigging are points- in the finish of 
first-class beavers, which cannot be neglected without injury. The 
warp should always be of sound stock, not necessarily of the long- 
est staple, but such as will make a strong thread without twisting 
too hard. The filling, while it should be soft and short stock, must 
endure much work on the face ; the stock used should be selected 
accordingly. 

Bedford Cord. — A ribbed cloth of great strength, commonly 
drab. Used very extensively for working garments in England. 



SPITZ-LI'S MANUAL. 35 

Beesley's Ribbon Shuttle Motion. — An interesting chapter on 
Ribbon Shuttles will be found in Barlow's " History of Weaving," 
pp. 294, which also describes this invention thoroughly. 

Beir. — This term, when applied to reeds, represents a certain 
number of splits — most commonly twenty. Its application to yarn 
refers to this, 20 splits per inch, and 2 threads per split make the 
40 threads called a Beir. (See rules.) 

Blanket. — Thomas Blanket was a famous clothier connected 
with the introduction of woolens into England about 1340. From 
him the well known name for certain woolen goods is supposed to 
have been taken. Blanket binding is a term sometimes heard from 
old men, but they disagree as to the exact texture meant. 

Belts. — That the arc of contact has more to do with the driving 
power of belts than the area, is shown by the wire rope, where the 
area of contact is so small as to be neglected in calculation, while a 
large arc of contact is absolutely necessary. Belts have a tendency 
to sag edgewise and to leave their proper place upon their pulleys. 
This is more particularly the case with belts transmitting motion 
between vertical shafts. When two shafts are not in parallel align- 
ment, the belt from one to the other will tend to work off one of the 
two pulleys. There are four ways of remedying this : First, by 
properly aligning the shafts; second, by placing unyielding guides 
at the edges of the belts ; third, by using special tighteners ; and 
fourth, by giving excessive crown to the pulleys. When belts are 
used to transmit motion between vertical shafts, the tendency of the 
belt to work off is aggravated by its own weight, and this tendency 
must be met in one of three ways — by throwing the shafts out of 
correct line, by guiding the edge of the belt, or by the use of special 
tighteners. Between horizontal shafts the weight of the belt trans- 
mitting motion tends to cause or increase adhesion. This is not 
the case between vertical shafts, the belts of which require to be 
strained by tighteners. The tighteners may be swinging or sliding, 
and when properly designed and made, the former should be pro- 
vided with an adjustment by which the pulley can be moved in the 
plane of its axis, and the housing piece should be pivoted so that 
the axis may be given an oblique position. The experiments of 
J. H. Cooper show that the influence of air upon the belt is simply 
nothing. The influence of surface upon the adhesion of a belt may 
be shown by a very simple experiment : Placing pulleys of different 
diameters in a vice, putting a piece of belting over them, loading 
both sides alike, and then adding weights on one side till slipping 



36 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

just commences. It will be seen that on the largest pulley the slip 
will be least, other things being equal. One experiment of this kind 
spoken of in the "American Machinist," October 9, 1880, gave the 
following results : The pulleys used were cones, and the table 
below gives the distance of slips in one minute : 

Pulley Pulley Pulley 

No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. 

Diameter, inches 12^ 9$ 7^ 

Distance slips in one minute, inches if 1$ 4 

Belts should be wide and long enough to do the work without 
being run too tight. Uneven speed from slipping belts is bad 
everywhere. Belts running perpendicularly have to be kept too 
tight to last long, unless much wider than when running horizon- 
tally. 

Belt Grease. — That a leather belt should be kept pliable with 
grease is not doubted, but the kind of grease and manner of apply- 
ing it, is a question of much controversy. The result desired is not 
always obtained, because the compounds used are not of a nature to 
produce it. A list of good compounds might be given, but only one 
can be tested properly at a time, and such compounds are brought 
to the notice of manufacturers frequently by other means. Almost 
every one has used several kinds, observations from which will be 
useful for comparison. A compound now sold by the Dixon Cruci- 
ble Co., which is very good, indeed, when judiciously used, should 
be tried before condemning all kinds of belt grease. 

Belt Lace. — For fastening the ends of belts together when they 
cannot conveniently be lapped and cemented there is as yet no 
better way than to lace them with a good tough, flexible strip of 
leather. Rawhide is very good, excepting in places where there is 
much steam. There are special tannings which do much better in 
such places, but some kinds of metallic fastenings are preferred by 
many. To use lacing economically some responsible person should 
be entrusted with the selection of the sides, also with the cutting, 
which is done best by machinery; keeping a memorandum of every 
bunch of lacings given out will soon show by whom and where the 
most lacings are used, when the matter can be sifted. The greatest 
waste of lacings may be traced to operatives who will not use them 
as long, or as many times, as they might. Overseers are usually to 
blame for slackness in this particular ; it devolves upon them to see 
that laces are drawn instead of cut; and if somewhat worn, or too 
short, that they are used in his or another department on lighter 
belts. The trouble is, that few men can mind trifles, when they 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, 37 

belong to others. Could every operative in a mill reduce the waste 
and loss he causes by carelessness to the lowest minimum, wages 
might be raised many per cent, and profits be much increased 
besides. The best way to lace a broad belt is by lacing a lap piece 
on the outside. 

Benzole. — Benzine, benzene,- benzal, hydruret of phenyle, (C 18 
H 2 ). The more volatile portion of coal naptha has been shown by 
Monsfield to consist chiefly of this substance. It is produced in a 
great number of reactions in which organic bodies are exposed to 
high temperatures. It may be at Once obtained in a state of purity 
by distilling benzoic acid with excess of quick lime. (Ure's 
Dictionary.) 

Bichloride of Tin. — Double Muriate of Tin. 

Bichromate of Potash. — Red Chrome of Potash, Chrome. 

Bi- Sulphate of Copper. — Blue Vitriol, Blue Stone. 

Bi-Sulphuret of Iron. — Iron pyrites. 

Binders. — Many parts of machines or mechanisms are called 
binders, because they unite or hold in place certain parts, viz.: 
Box binders or shuttle binders keep the shuttle stationary while 
in the box. The threads in fabrics which unite textures or tie them 
down in places are as often called binders as binding threads, 
which see. 

Binding. — A word used by some in place of texture. 

Binding Fabrics. — Intermediate fabrics used for the purpose of 
binding others together. 

Binding Threads or Yarn.— Serving the same purpose as 
binding fabrics, but in a manner more independent of each other. 
Some effects on face fabrics are also produced by what are termed 
binding threads, binding yarn, yarn used for binding threads ; also 
for tying hanks or skeins. The yarn left in the harnesses by the 
weaver, for the purpose of tying or twisting to it the next warp, to 
be woven with said harnesses. 

Binding Plans. — Texture designs on chain and drawing in 
drafts. 

Bird Eye Patterns. — Formerly applied only to a particular 
little diamond pattern, made with four harnesses, but now applied 
to any similar effect, made with any number of harnesses. 

Bleaching is the process by which the textile filaments — cotton, 
flax, hemp, wool, silk, and the cloths made of them, as well as 
various vegetable and animal substances — are deprived of their 



38 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

natural color and rendered nearly or altogether white. For some 
materials the processes are very simple, but others are in themselves 
a science. The subject is worthy of thorough and extensive study, 
beginning with the chemicals and their applications. 

Bobbins. — Bobbins are of many shapes and kinds for the many 
classes of work. To describe shapes would require too much 
space for the allowance here. Suffice it to say that bobbins should 
be plenty about a factory, the place for storing them convenient, 
dry, and large enough so that no box need ever be heaped. From 
heaping boxes some bobbins fall, only to be trodden under foot or 
picked up and thrown in the wrong box. The wood, which wears 
rough, splits easily, warps, or is too soft, is not cheap at any price. 
The best are the cheapest. Steaming yarn on the bobbin may be 
necessary, but it is destructive to the latter beyond all other wear 
and tear. Bobbins should fit all the spindles upon which they must 
be used ; if not, they will be split either by stuffing if too large, or 
abuse if too small. 

Boilers. — Of the many kinds of boilers used about factories, 
those which generate steam for power and heating are of the most 
importance. Boilers for yarn cloth and bleaching are known by 
more common names. 

Boilers (Land) should be set at an inclination of .5 inch in 10 
feet. 

Grates (Coal). — They should have a superficial area of 1 square foot 
for every 15 pounds of coal required to be consumed per hour, at a 
rapid rate of combustion, and they should be set at an inclination 
toward the bridge wall of 1 inch in every foot of length. When, 
however, the rate of combustion is not high, in consequence of the 
low velocity of the draught of the furnace, or the fuel being insuf- 
ficient, this proportion must be increased to 1 square foot for every 
12 pounds of fuel. With Wood as the fuel, their area should be 1.25 
to 1.4 that for coal. The width of the bars should be the least 
practicable, and the spaces between them from .5 to .75 of an inch, 
according to the fuel used. 

Ash-pit. — The transverse area of it, for a like combustion of 15 
pounds of coal per hour, should be .25 the area of the grate surface 
for bituminous coal, and .$$ for anthracite. The velocity of the 
current of air entering an ash-pit may be estimated at 12 feet per 
second. 

Furnace or Chamber (Coal). — The volume of it should be from 
2 -75 to 3 cubic feet for every square foot of its grate surface. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 39 

( Wood.) The volume should be 4.6 to 5 cubic feet. Combustion 
is'the most complete with firing or charges at intervals of from 15 to 
20 minutes. The volume of air and smoke for each cubic foot of 
water converted into steam is from coal 1780 to 1950 cubic feet, and 
for wood 3900. 

Bridge-wall (Flue boilers). — The cross section of the flues or 
tubes should have an area of 1.7 to 2 square inches for each pound 
of coal consumed per hour, or from 22.5 to 26 square inches for 
each square foot of grate, for a combustion of 13 pounds of coal per 
hour ; the difference in the area depending upon the character of 
the conformation of the section of, and the length of the passage of 
the gases ; the area being inversely with the diameter, and directly 
as the length of the flues, tubes or spaces between them. Thus, in 
Horizontal tubular boilers, the area should be increased to 27.5 and 
31 square inches ; in Vertical tubular, to 32.5 and 36 square inches ; 
and when a Blast is used, the area may be decreased to 15.5 and 
and 20.5 square inches. The temperature of a furnace is about 
1000 , and the volume of air required for the combustion of 1 
pound of bituminous coal, together with the products of combustion, 
is 154.81 cubic feet, which, when exposed to the above temperature, 
makes the volume of heated air at the bridge wall from 450 to 470 
cubic feet for each pound of coal consumed upon the grates. 
Hence, at a velocity of the draught of about 36 feet per second, 
the area over a bridge wall, required to admit of this volume being 
passed off in an hour, would be .5 of a square inch, but in practice 
it should be 2 square inches. When 13 pounds of coal per hour are 
consumed upon a square foot of grate, 13x2=26 square inches are 
required, and in this proportion for other quantities. The tempera- 
ture of the heated air at the end of the flues should be about 500 , 
and their area, and that of the base of the chimney, should be .75 
of that over the bridge wall, or 1.5 square inches for each pound of 
coal consumed per hour. When the area of the flues is determined 
upon, and the area over the bridge wall is required, it should be 
taken at from .7 to .8 the area of the lower flues for a natural 
draught, and from .5 to .6 for a blast. 

Flues. — Their area should decrease with their length, but not in 
proportion with the reduction of the temperature of the heated air, 
their area at their termination being from .7 to .8 that of their 
calorimeter or area immediately at the bridge wall. Large flues 
absorb more heat than small, as both the volume and intensity of 
the heat is greater with equal surfaces. The temperature of the 
base of the chimney, or the termination of the flues or tubes, is esti- 



4<D SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

mated at 500 ; and the base of the chimney, or the calorimeter, 
should have an area of 1.33 square inches for every pound of coal 
consumed per hour. With tubes of small diameter, compared to 
their length, this proportion may be reduced to 1 inch. The 
admission of air behind a bridge wall increases the temperature of 
the gases, but it must be at a point where their temperature is not 
below 8oo°. 

Evaporation. — One square foot of grate surface, at a combustion 
of 13 pounds of coal per hour, will evaporate 2 cubic feet of salt 
water per hour. A square foot of heating surface, at the above 
combustion of fuel, will evaporate from 4.33 to 5.33 pounds of salt 
water per hour; and at a combustion of 40 pounds of coal per hour 
(as upon the Western rivers of the United States), from 10 to 11 
pounds of fresh water, exclusive of that lost by blowing out from 
the boilers. Twelve to 15 square feet of surface will evaporate 1 
cubic foot of salt water per hour at a combustion of 13 pounds of 
coal per hour per square foot of grate. 

The relative evaporating powers of iron, brass and copper are as 
1, 1.25 and 1.56. 

Water Surface. — At low evaporations, 3 square feet are required 
for each square foot of grate surface, and at high evaporation 4 to 5 
square feet. 

To compute the heating and grate surface required for a given 
evaporation, or volume of cylinder and revolutions : 

Operation. — Reduce the evaporation to the required volume of 
cylinder, number of revolutions of engine, pressure of steam and 
point of cutting off; then reduce these results to the range of con- 
sumption of fuel per square foot of grate, pressure of steam, and 
number of revolutions given for the several cases at pp. 593 and 
594, in Haswell's Engineers' and Mechanics' Handbook, and multi- 
ply them by the units given for the surfaces required. {Note. — The 
work just referred to should be in every manager's possession.) 

Illustration. — There is required an evaporation of 492.24 
cubic feet of salt water per hour, under a pressure of steam of 17.3 
pounds per square inch, stroke of engine 10 feet, cutting off at \ 
stroke, revolutions 15 per minute, and consumption of fuel (coal) 
13 pounds yer square foot of grate per hour, in a marine boiler hav- 
ing internal furnaces and vertical tubes. 



SlPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



41 



Volume of steam at this pressure compared with water, 833. 

492.24 x 833-7-60 =6833.93 cubic feet of cylinder per minute. 
6833.93-J-15 X 2 = 227.79 cubic feet of cylinder at half stroke. 
227 79 x 17.3 

Then =197.04 cubic feet at 17.3 lbs. pressure, and 

20 
197.04 x 15 , 

=147.78, which x 66, the unit for heating surface for a 

20 

vertical tubular boiler at 20 lbs. pressure and 20 revolutions=9753. 
48 square feet. 

And 147.78 X2=the unit for grate under like condition=295.56 
square feet. 

To compute the consumption of fuel in the furnace of a boiler. 
The dimensions of the cylinder, the pressure of the steam, the 
point of cutting off, the revolutions, and the evaporation of the 
boilers per pound of fuel per minute being given : 

Rule. — Ascertain the volume of water expended in steam, and 
multiply it by the weight of a cubic foot of the water used ; divide 
the product by the evaporating power of the fuel in the boiler under 
computation in pounds of water, and add thereto the loss per cent, 
by blowing off. 

Boiler Plates and Bolts. — Tensile strength of wrought iron plates 
and bolts ranges from 45,500 to 62,500 pounds per square inch for 
plates, 59,000 for English bolts, and 65,000 for American, being 
increased when subjected to a moderate temperature. The mean 
tensile strength of steel plates and bolts ranges from 80,000 to 
96,000 pounds. Kirkaldy gives 85,966 as a mean. 

Bursting and Collapsing Pressures. — The computation for plates 
and bolts should be based, so far as may be practicable, upon their 
exact tensile strength. Whenever, then, the strength of plates is 
ascertained, there should be deducted therefrom one-half for single 
riveting and three-tenths for double riveting, and the remainder 
divided by a factor of safety of three. When the exact strength can 
not be ascertained, a factor of six should be used both for plates and 
bolts. The resistance to collapse of a flue or tube is much less than 
the resistance to bursting; the ratio can not well be determined, as 
the resistance of a flue decreases with its length, or that of its 
courses. With an ordinary cylindrical boiler, 4 feet in diameter, 
single riveted, 20 feet in length, with flues 15-j inches in diameter, 
shell T \ thick, flues \ inch, the relative strength are : -Bursting, 350 
pounds; collapsing, 152 pounds. — Haswell. 



42 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Heating Feed-Water. — As some doubts seem to exist among 
steam users about the advantages of heating the feed water, it might 
be appropriate to give a few figures about the economy to be 
obtained thereby. To heat a pound of water from zero to the boil- 
ing point, and convert it into steam at a certain pressure, a certain 
amount of heat has to be imparted to it. A " unit of heat " is the 
amount necessary to raise one pound of water one degree in tem- 
perature. Then 

At 15 pounds above atmosphere 1191 units are necessary. 



" 30 


1198 


" 45 


" 1203 


" 60 


" 1208 


" 75 


" 1212 


" 90 


" 1214 



Taking 1,200 as an average, and assuming the average natural 
temperature of water at about 50 , we have to impart 1150 units of 
heat to every pound of water to convert it into steam. A feed- 
water heater will thus, for every ioo° the feed-water is raised in 
temperature, effect a saving of 

IOO X IOO 

= 8.7 per cent.; 

1150 

the greatest economy would be attained if the feed could be heated 

to the boiling point. Taking the latter at 212", the gain would 

then be 

(212 — 50) X IOO 

= 14 per cent. 

1150 

In condensing engines the feed-water is taken from the hot well, 
which generally is kept at 120° to 130 , as a higher temperature 
would impair the vacuum, and thus neutralize what is gained by a 
higher temperature of feed. In some marine engines the feed-water 
has been heated to a higher degree by taking it from the hot well 
into the top of the condenser, or around and through the exhaust 
pipe, to expose it to the steam coming out of the cylinder, before it 
is condensed. Considerable gain has been claimed by inventors of 
these plans, but as they have not been adopted to any extent it may 
be doubted whether their advantage is universally acknowledged. 
For stationary condensing engines the so-called economizers have 
found extensive application; they consist of coils or rows of tubes, 
located in the back flue of the boiler; the feed-water is forced 
through them, and can thus be heated to very near the boiling 
point. Some of these were shown in the British section, in the 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 43 

southeast corner of Machinery Hall, in the Centennial Exhibition, 

and very elaborate and costly structures they were. Their vertical 

tubes had a slow-moving set of scraping rings around them, to keep 

them from any soot that might impair their conductive power. 

Taking the temperature of the hot well at 120 , and assuming that 

the feed is heated to 200, the gain would be 

(200 — 120) X 100 

= 7.4 per cent. 

1200 — 120 

For non-condensing engines, where the feed would have to be 

raised from 50, the gain would be 

(200 — 50) x 100 

= 13 per cent. 

1200 — so 

For non-condensing engines the simplest way to heat the feed is 
by the exhaust from the cylinder, either passing it into the feed- 
water tank, which is done in locomotives sometimes, or by forcing 
the feed-water through a coil of pipes surrounded by the exhaust 
steam. Or the feed, in its way to the boiler, is forced through a 
cylindrical vessel, and the exhaust steam conducted through it in 
small tubes, after the manner of a surface condenser. If these 
arrangements are provided with sufficient heating surface, the feed 
may be heated to 180 or 200 , but care should be taken to provide 
ample and unobstructed passage to the exhaust, so as not to in- 
crease the back pressure, for if the latter is only one pound per 
square inch higher, the loss, especially where the steam is greatly 
expanded, may come very near the gain by feed-heating. In a 
Corliss engine, working with sixty pounds pressure, cutting off at 
Toth, the mean pressure is about 14! pounds per square inch ; if 
the back pressure is raised one pound, the mean pressure would 
only be 13^, showing a loss of 

,1 X IOCk 

{ J = 7 per cent. 

^ 14.5 ' 
The cost of heating the feed is represented by the interest on 
the first cost of the heater and its cost of maintenance, and will 
vary somewhat according to construction, etc. On an average the 
net gain by heating the feed may be assumed as about five per cent, 
for condensing, and ten per cent, for non-condensing engines. — 
By J. Ifaug, M.E., in Polytechnic Review. 

Boiling. — Boiling goods to produce lustre is a common necessity, 
but it is not always best to boil ; a gentle steeping may serve the 
purpose better and prove less injurious to the material. The false 



44 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

impression that the liquor is not doing the work unless greatly 
agitated, prevails, but not so extensively as twenty years ago. The 
secret of success is frequently in the rolling, the exposure, gradual 
cooling or in the nature and character of the fabric. When woolen 
goods have been excessively boiled, exposed to great heat, or cooled 
too suddenly, they are invariably made harsh. When the machine 
which rolls the goods is not powerful enough to draw the goods 
quite steadily, with the utmost strain necessary, look out for water 
marks. If the goods are not clean when boiled, clouds and dark 
edges may show themselves. If the colors in the goods are not fast 
they will sometimes be less so after boiling for lustre. 

Bois Rouge. — See Camwood. 

Bombazine. — (Bombazet, Bombazette, Bombazine, Bombasine?) — A 
sort of thin woolen cloth. Bumbazeen. n. [Fr., bombasin and 
basin; Sp., bombasi ; It., bambagno; Lat., bombacinium, bomba- 
cinium, from Lat. bombycinus of silk or cotton. Bombycinum, a 
silk or cotton texture from Bombyt. Gr., Bou-By silk, cotton ; 
It., bombazio.] A twilled fabric, of which the warp is silk and the 
weft worsted ; formerly black, for mourning garments, but now 
made of various colors. [Sometimes spelled bombasin.] — Tomlinson. 

Bombazine was first made at Norwich, England, in 1875. 

Bonchon, M. — M. Bonchon, in 1725, (twenty-seven years before 
the birth of Jacquard,) employed a band of pierced paper, pressed 
by a hand-bar against a row of horizontal wires, so as to push for- 
ward those which happened to be opposite the blank spaces, thus 
bringing the loops at the lower extremity of vertical wires in con- 
nection with a comb-like rack below, etc. It will thus be seen that 
Jacquard was not the inventor of the first principles of the kind of 
looms now known the world over by his name. 

Books. — The books required by the designer are few and simple ; 
but large, must be thoroughly made, and are therefore expensive. 
The principal ones are design, pattern and record books. Books of 
instruction should perhaps be included, as no designer can now 
afford to refrain from much reading on subjects kindred to his call- 
ing. {For description, see Design Books, Pattern Books, Record 
Books and Books of Instruction.) The different kinds of books 
should be procured uniform in size if possible ; this is a saving in 
shelf room, and adds much to the appearance of a library of this 
kind, great or small. Design Books should be gotten up to suit the 
designs to be recorded, the paper very heavy and binding first-class. 



SPITZ LI'S MANUAL. 45 

Pattern books can be got very cheap, but it is not economy to buy 
such ; they have to be replaced too often, look bad and are gener- 
ally unsatisfactory. The records are simple, and may be like the 
regular account books known by that name, of a size to match the 
others. Books of Instruction are expensive, but a necessity, 
acknowledged more and more every day. 

Book of Ties. — To be able to apply any given pattern to the 
looms was formerly considered as being one of the " mysteries" of 
weaving, for the weaver was expected to tie up or arrange his loom 
to produce satins, twills, spots and small figures. He was accord- 
ingly provided with various diagrams or plans, showing him how to 
do so : and if he. was a careful man, he would have a number of the 
most prevailing patterns drawn in his " Book of Ties," which was 
the name given to the memorandum book for that purpose. A cen- 
tury ago there were in this country no printed works on weaving; 
therefore, it may be interesting to describe a fair specimen of a 
weaver's pocketbook of that period, for it is questionable whether 
many of them remain in existence at the present time. A book of 
this kind is now before us ; it is an ordinary long-shaped pocket- 
book, and contains about eighty different " ties " or patterns clearly 
drawn; each pattern has its particular naiie, such as " bird's eye 
or diamond handkerchief," "twelve lam diaper," "Barcelona twill," 
" Florentine," " Long cut velvet," " shamrock gauze," " rocktabby," 
"velveret," " wild-worm-warp-away," and other curious names, for 
weavers centuries ago were perfectly aware of the effect of a new 
name. — Barlow. 

Books of Instruction. — There is no question more frequently 
asked by beginners than " Which is the best book for me to get ?" 
The fact is that many are apt to expect too much of a book. In 
these days it is no longer possible for even the most advanced to 
hold his vantage ground without much reading; but he who thinks 
to post himself entirely from books, or he who otherwise places 
too much dependence upon rules and precepts which cannot be 
otherwise than arbitrary, must fail. A beginner should get some 
experienced person to pick out a plain, simple book on some par- 
ticular branch to begin with ; this will prepare him for more 
difficult work; finally standard works treating in general upon sub- 
jects kindred to his special branch will afford most profitable read- 
ing. We advise a beginner to purchase this manual first, because 
the price is reasonable and much aid may be derived from it ; the 
selection of other works is also made easy. Ashton, Langewald, 



46 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Aslienhurst, Barlow, Chevreul, on colors, procured in the order 
mentioned, if not altogether, is money well spent. Ashton treats 
elementary points very satisfactorily to the beginner. Langewald 
supplies the largest collection of chain drafts and tables convenient 
in a woolen mill. Ashenhurst's work is very instructive to any one 
who has had a little start. Barlow is very interesting and important 
to those who wish general knowledge of weaving and its history. 

Borate of Soda. — Borax. 

Borax. — Biborate of soda; a salt formed by a combination of 
boracic acid with soda. It was originally obtained from a lake in 
Thibet, and was sent to Europe under the name of tincal. It is of 
a white color or sometimes grayish, or with a shade of blue or 
green. 

Bord or Burda. — A striped cloth. Burd Alisaunder, the oldest 
known design for any textile fabric. 

Bow. — A device on the point of a shuttle to separate the shed. 
Used when the warp threads are inclined to stick together. It is 
usually made of horse hair or very fine wire. 

Bowed Gorgia Cotton. — " Bowed Gorgia" takes its name from 
a mode of cleaning whj^h has long been in disuse. This operation 
was performed by means of a bow-string, which being raised by the 
hand, and suddenly released, struck upon the cotton with consider- 
able force, and thereby served both to separate the gins and to open 
the cotton, rendering it more fit for the processes which followed. 
" It has long since been abandoned for other and more rapid 
methods of cleaning." — (Baird.) What is now called " Bowed 
Gorgia " has been cleaned by a machine called a saw-gin. 

Boxes. — Shuttle boxes on looms are often troublesome, because 
supported by a crooked spindle. The position in relation to the 
race board, when the shuttle is to pass in or out, is of great import- 
ance, and varies on looms of different construction sometimes to the 
extent of ^ inch. Some weavers claim that a box should never be 
level, but aim downwards a little ; the advantages claimed for this 
mode of setting are that it keeps the shuttle from flying out, and 
catches the shuttle gradually on its coming in. This theory is not 
accepted by others who are equally successful. Timing the motion 
of the boxes is a nice point, but carelessly done by a large propor- 
tion of loom fixers. The cleanliness of boxes should be scrupulously 
attended to. 

Box Motion. — The mechanism on looms for raising and lowering 



SPTTZLI'S MANUAL. 47 

the shuttle boxes is an important part of the whole. This has led 
to many inventions, some good, others almost worthless, and many 
which conflict with each other in claims of inventors. The very 
motion that we would recommend is in controversy. 

Bow Cords. — The term used to designate the cords between the 
raising lever or couper, and the harness or leaf of certain kinds of 
hand looms. 

Brazil Woods. — There are several varieties of this wood, which 
are distinguished from each other by the name of the place where 
they are obtained — Pernambuco, Japan, Hypernic wood, Nicaragua, 
etc., and they all give a handsome red ; and in relation to dyeing, 
may be considered as only different names for dyestuffs producing 
similar coloring effect, and only differing in some little particulars. 
In the dyehouse they are often all called peachwood. The wood 
known in commerce as Pernambuco is most esteemed, and has the 
greatest quantity of coloring matter. The kind termed Hypernic 
or Lima wood is the same in quality. A decoction of Lima wood 
presents a rich crimson color, which acids and acidulous salts will 
change to orange, and alkalies turn to purple. The salts of potash, 
soda and ammonia change the solution into a rose color, which soon 
passes away by standing. Solutions of tin throw down a bright red 
colored lake, and alum precipitates slowly a bright and clear red. 
Nicaragua or peachwood (sometimes called Santa Matha wood) is 
much used in the dyehouse, and for many shades of red is pre- 
ferred, although the coloring matter is not so great. It gives a 
bright dye. It is better adapted to coloring reds than Lima wood, 
and this latter is better for garnets, rubies, maroons, etc., on ac- 
count of its deep crimson-colored solution. But all the colors 
obtained from any of these woods are of a fugitive nature, losing 
their brilliancy by exposure to the air. The sun has a very pow- 
erful influence upon colors dyed by these woods. By a short ex- 
posure the red color assumes a blackish tint, passes into a brown, 
and fades away into a light dun color. The best preparations for 
reds from these woods is alum and tartar — the tartar about one- 
eighth the weight of alum. The best temperature to commence 
dyeing these colors is about 180 , and bring up to a boil as soon as 
possible, and boil no longer than to get the shade required. 

Brushes. — The brushes needed by a designer are two in num- 
ber — one of the best bristle clothes brushes for brushing samples, 
not too large or stiff, not too limber ; also, a small brush for clear- 
ing the projecting threads when dissecting. Factory brushes are 



48 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

more numerous in kinds, for brushing cloth, gigg slats, warps, etc., 
etc.; also for dabbing the stock into the circles on combs and other 
like work. The very best brush bristles are cheapest. 

Brocade. — A cloth with figures woven with gold or silver 
threads. 

Brush Wheels. — In light machinery, wheels are sometimes made 
to turn each other by means of bristles fixed in their circumference ; 
these are called brush wheels. The term is sometimes applied to 
wheels which move by their friction only. — (Ure's Dictionary.) 

Bungoes. — A peculiar kind of shawls first made at Strathbungo 
near Glasgow, Scotland. Sometimes applied to other fabrics sup- 
posed to resemble the texture and character of these shawls. 

Brussels Carpet. — Brussels and other pile carpets are made 
upon the same principle as velvet, but generally the pile is not cut, 
consequently round wires are used instead of grooved ones, and 
they are drawn out from the sides of the cloth. There are two 
descriptions of Brussels, one in which the pile threads have the 
pattern printed upon them previous to weaving, and the other in 
which the threads are used dyed in separate colors. The first kind 
is known as tapestry carpets, patented in 1832, by Mr. Whytock of 
Edinburgh, and forms a comparatively simple and cheap manufac- 
ture when compared to Brussels carpets. 

Buckram. — A coarse linen cloth stiffened with glue, named from 
buco, a hole, or from Bokkara. 

Burel. — A coarse stuff used during the thirteenth century. 



Calcium. — The metallic base of lime. 

Calculations. — Mathematical calculations are numerous in and 
about the factory. Those which fall to the designers' lot frequently 
include estimates of cost, as well as quantity of yarn and stock 
needed for separate orders. Many of the more important calcula- 
tions are treated in other parts for the sake of clear connections. 
To be methodical in all things should be the aim of all, designers in 
particular ; it is a useful as well as commendable virtue. To give 
the necessary methods for all factory calculations would require a 
large volume, and the best would be incomplete. The better way is 
to supply, in the proper places, elementary rules, and urge every 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 49 

one to reduce all their calculations to a systematic method ; to 
decide on some good way to proceed for the various kinds of mathe- 
matical problems which come up frequently, and make use of such 
method until it can be abandoned for a better one in earnest; never 
employ too many ways to solve the same kind of problems. It is 
well to know several ways, as they may be used for proving work, 
but an unmethodical use of such knowledge is demoralizing. Most 
of the examples given in this work will be found with the rules. 
The impossibility to collect even in small districts of England 
statements of any number which agree, on the subject of mathemati- 
cal terms and methods in textile calculations, on account of the great 
diversity of methods employed, verifies the preceding remarks. 
(See Barlow and Ashenhurst.) The latter is quoted as good author- 
ity, and to show how utterly impossible it is to create order out of 
the chaos existing in some districts, the quotation is in another part 
in connection with "Yarn Counts or Numbers." 

Calico Printing is the art of producing a pattern on cotton 
cloth by printing in colors, or mordants, which become colors when 
subsequently dyed. Calico derives its name from Calicut, a town 
in India formerly celebrated for its manufactures of cotton cloth, 
and where calico was also printed. Other fabrics than cotton are 
now printed by similar means, viz., linen, silk, wool and mixtures of 
wool and cotton. Linen was formerly the principal fabric printed, 
but since modern improvements have produced cotton cloth at a 
comparatively cheap rate linen fabrics are now sparingly used for 
printing, and then principally for handkerchiefs, linen cloth not 
producing such beautiful colors, in consequence of the small affinity 
of flax for mordants or coloring matters. Silk printing also is 
chiefly confined to handkerchiefs, but the printing of woolen fabrics 
or mousseline delaines is an important branch of the art. (Ure's 
Dictionary.) 

Cambric. — A cotton cloth. No doubt the name is derived from 
Cambray. 

Callenders. — Callenders are machines with two or more cylin- 
ders, now generally heated by steam, used in some of the finishing 
processes ; also by the calico printers to prepare the surface of the 
goods. The complete and perfect callender is a large and expen- 
sive machine, and may be much modified for certain fabrics. It is 
always best, however, to have one so fitted that it may be worked 
with any degree of pressure between the rolls, from that which 
simply insures regular contact to that which will produce a glaze on 
4 



5o 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL 



almost any fabric. A very good use for callenders, but by no means 
common, is that made of it by a few manufacturers of worsted 
goods of the heavier classes. After pressing it is necessary to take 
off the glaze with steam ; if the goods are immediately dried on a 
callender after this steaming, all firmness given the goods by press- 
ing remains ; if not, the moisture gradually penetrates the goods 
and an undesirable result is the consequence. 

Camwood. — This is another species of the red woods, and grows 
in Sierra Leone and those countries adjacent to the Bight of Benin. 
Its chemical properties and nature are very similar to barwood 
and sanders, being called by botanists bois range. It contains more 
coloring principle, and the color is more permanent than sanders or 
barwood. It comes to the dyer in a ground state, same as barwood 
and sanders. The precipitates from a solution of this wood are of 
a more yellow cast, which explains why the colors dyed by it are so 
much more intense and rich than colors from the other red woods, 
its color being more of a decided red. It is more extensively 
used in woolen dyeing than either of the other red woods, for 
the reasons given above. It will give a permanent color either 
with or without a mordant. Camwood gives out its color with 
great reluctance, but by taking the plan laid down for barwood 
and adding to the color-bath one-half ounce of soda-ash (Na 3 C0 3 ) 
for every twelve pounds of camwood used, just as the wool is to be 
entered for coloring, will make a great difference in the quantity of 
color obtained, and the wool will not feel so harsh, but will work 
more open than if the soda-ash had not been used. Camwood 
naturally gives a harsh feeling to wool, but not so much so as san- 
ders. Reagents give the following results : Sulphate of iron 
(FeS0 4 ) gives a plum color; muriate of tin (ShCl 2 ) gives a bright 
carmine-red color; sulphate of copper (CuS0 4 ) gives a handsome 
looking claret ; alum (A1SO) gives the solution a beautiful red color ; 
acetate of copper (IC 4 3 H 3 2Cu) gives a light reddish brown; 
nitrate of iron (3No a 2Fe) gives a reddish brown. None of the 
salts of lime seem to produce desirable results upon it as a mor- 
dant. The sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) gives the best results, 
or effects, upon the color of this wood, and appears to be the most 
effectual mordant for it, especially if using it for browns. — Gibson. 
A light bath of camwood before dyeing prevents wool from felting 
somewhat. 

Cards. — This term has many meanings in the textile world. We 
card cotton and wool with cards. The patterns on Jacquards and 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, 5 I 

some other looms are produced by the pattern cards. We have 
pattern cards for another* purpose also ; upon these we paste 
samples of goods. Railroad cards are simply from six to twelve 
cotton cards connected by what are termed railroads ; these are a 
trough in which a strap carries the slivers from all the cards to a 
series of rollers ; the slivers are delivered into a can. after passing 
through the rollers. These devices for saving labor are of great 
value as they make better work by more doubling. 

Carding. — The carding of stock is very important. What can 
be learned from books should be studiously sought ; but experi- 
ence is indispensable to any one who is to have charge of the pro- 
cess. There are many good books to be had, and, unlike works on 
weaving, most of them are sold at very low prices. Leroux's re- 
marks on this subject are very valuable. Baird in his work on cotton 
manufacture says : "Cards are used to disentangle the fibres of cotton, 
and lay them lengthwise and parallel with each other. Carding consists 
in the reversed action of two opposite surfaces, which are studded 
with angled wire hooks. These hooks must be made of good, hard- 
drawn iron wire, to render them stiff and elastic. In former years, 
cards were merely made of small straight boards, studded with 
sharp wire points, and having handles; these were operated by 
hand : now, they are encased cylinders, driven by steam or water 
power. These machines consist of one large, and often of many 
small cylinders. If the large cylinder is partially surrounded by 
small cylinders, the card is intended for coarse yarn, or coarse wool 
or cotton ; if it contains but one or two small cylinders, it is used 
for fine cotton and fine yarn. This machine receives the coil of lap 
from the spreading-machine, which is as wide as the card, and forms 
it into a lamina, in which the fibres of cotton are more or less 
parallel, according to the work. Coarse yarn requires the cotton to 
be carded but once ; but, for fine yarn, it is necessary to repeat the 
operation." 

Carpets. — Carpets are no longer a luxury enjoyed by the wealthy 
alone, their use has become so general that many kinds are now 
needed to meet the varied demands. These kinds or classes are so 
commonly known by their names that it is quite needless to 
enumerate them. It would be quite as unsatisfactory to consider each 
as briefly as space here would require. The fact is, an exhaustive 
work on the manufacture of carpets is greatly needed, so much so 
that anything short of it will not be acceptable. The subject is 



52 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

pretty extensively treated by Barlow, and many illustrations make 
this part of the work quite instructive to those who are making the 
methods of producing textile fabrics a general study. Ashenhurst 
is also thorough in the chapters devoted to carpets, but has not 
made use of illustrations so profusely as Barlow. 

Cashmere or Cachemere. — The genuine fabrics of this class, at 
one time the only goods sold under this name, were formerly pro- 
duced in the Kingdom of Cashmere. They are now made to greater 
perfection in Europe. The material of the cashmere shawls is the 
downy wool found on parts of the Thibet goat (only a small percent- 
age of their coats by weight). The Oriental Cashmere shawls are 
the results of extremely slow weaving processes. The Jacquard 
loom produces better goods at much less cost. 

Cassimeres or Kersimeres. — Almost any woolen cloth that has 
not for some special reason another name is conveniently classed 
among cassimeres by the trade. Really this class of goods includes 
only plain and fancy cassimeres, both being woolen goods that have 
been milled — the difference between the plain and fancy being in 
the appearance. Plain cassimeres may be made of any texture 
which will look smooth and plain oh the face ; even twills are classed 
in this line, when not too large ; diagonals can not be. This class 
must also be of one color or mixture only. When more than one 
color, large or fancy diagonals, or otherwise fancy effects or textures 
are used, the goods are properly fancy cassimeres. " Cotton warp 
fancy cassimeres " is a trade name to pass off fancy effects of a 
cheaper grade (made as the name implies in part of cotton), for 
which there is no more appropriate name in common use. Some 
" Union cassimeres " are of this order. 

Catechu. — " This is another substance containing a great deal of 
tannin or astringent principle. It is a dry extract, prepared from 
the wood of a sensitive plant called Terra Japonica. It grows in 
the mountainous districts of Hindostan. Catechu is dark brown or 
chocolate color, with an astringent taste, but no odor or smell. It 
contains about 50 per cent, of tannin principle ; gum, 8; extractive 
matter, 35 ; impurities, 7 :=ioo. 

Proto-sulphate of Iron gives olive brown precipitates. 

Chloride of Tin and Bi-sulphate of Copper gives yellowish brown 
precipitates. 

Bichromate of Potash gives a deep, rich, red brown precipitate. 

There are different qualities as well as kinds of catechu in the 
market. The Bombay comes to us in square masses, of a reddish 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 53 

brown color. Its composition is: Tannin, 50 ; extractive matter, 
35; gum, 8; impurities, 7: = ioo. 

The Bengal catechu is found in market in flattish round lumps. 
The outside color is a light brown ; the inside, dark brown. Its 
composition is: Tannin, 48.9 ; extractive matter, 37.0; gum, 7.5; 
impurities, 6.6 : = ioo. 

The Malabar catechu we receive in large masses. The color is 
of a light brown outside, but dark colored inside, and covered with 
leaves. Its composition is : Tannin, 45.3 ; extractive matter, 39.5 ; 
gum, 8.5 ; impurities, 6.7 : = ioo. 

Catechu is adulterated with sand, clay and ochre. The adultera- 
tion can be easily detected by dissolving some of it in water, and 
these impurities will settle, as good catechu is all soluble in water, 
and gives a clear solution, of a beautiful reddish brown color, which 
acids will brighten and alkalies darken, and the shade deepen by 
standing. The tannin that is contained in catechu is not so easily 
converted by exposure into gallic acid as nutgalls are, but is sub- 
ject to oxidation. When catechu is oxidized, there is a formation 
of an acid nearly like that of gallic acid ; but this acid is only 
formed when a solution of catechu is treated with an alkaline 
matter. Catechu is now used in almost all the compound colors on 
raw cotton and cotton yarns — blacks, browns, drabs, fawns and 
greens; and its permanency causes it to be of such high estimation 
in the coloring of raw cotton at the present time." — Gibson. 

Chenille Weft. — To produce an imitation of pile or velvet 
goods chenille weft or filling serves well. It is made by weaving a 
fabric that may be cut into narrow strips, the raw edges of which 
when twisted afford the projecting fibers. To make the strips fine 
or narrow it is necessary to cross-weave them ; this binds the short 
pieces of threads more firmly. Elegant shawls, cloakings, carpets 
and robes are made with this filling. There are looms built 
especially for weaving many kinds of chenille weft. 

Chloride of Calcium. — Lime and muriatic acid. 

Chinchilla. — These goods are used for cloaks and sometimes 
for overcoatings. It may be presumed that some fabric of this class 
at one time had some resemblance to the fur of an animal by this 
name, but few of the goods now sold under it can be said to retain 
the resemblance. Chinchilla goods must be of stock and texture to 
permit a long full nap. The disposal of the nap varies. Some 
kinds are curled, others are made wavy, yet others straight, etc., etc. 
The whipping machine is a necessity in the finishing of these goods. 



54 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Circles. — Circular Swivels or Lappets and Circular Shuttle 
Boxes are subjects described by Barlow and many other writers 
on looms and weaving. To write understandingly about them 
requires the use of illustrations and considerable space. Comb 
circles are more easily described. They consist of a brass or 
composition base, in circular form to fit the combing machines, 
from \ inch to f inch in thickness, according to the work they are 
intended for. Through this base pins are driven in rows, the size 
of the pins, shape and their number also depends on the kind of 
work. The pins should not be too soft or too hard, as hooked 
points or broken pins make bad work. Neither should the pins be 
set any closer together than is absolutely necessary to clear the 
wool. When close set, the stock must be fed very light or the 
dabbing brush will not be sufficient to force it between the pins. 

Cloth. — The word cloth is frequently used instead of fabric, 
erroneously. Almost any textile fabric may be cloth, but the more 
common use of the word is for heavier goods, and particularly those 
made of wool, like broadcloth, beavers, etc., etc. 

Cloth Finish is a term used to designate that finish on woolens 
similar to broadcloth. 

Cochineal. — " This is a small insect, called coccus cacti. It is a 
native of those parts of South America bordering on the Gulf of 
Mexico, of St. Domingo, Cuba and several other of the West India 
Islands, in which places it is sometimes found wild." It produces 
the finest known shades of crimson, red, scarlet, etc., for woolen or 
silk. Some cultivators use steam for killing the insect, and the 
different appearances of the cochineal are caused by the different 
modes of killing the insect. The best sorts are those that appear 
as if dusted with white powder, and are of a slate color; but this 
appearance is not a sure criterion to go by, as the dealers very often 
dust the cochineal with powdered talc, to deceive the purchaser. 
There are two kinds of cochineal, the silver and the black cochi- 
neal. The latter, as a general rule, is inferred to be the most valu- 
able, but this is a nice distinction, and only holds good when the two 
kinds present the same specific resemblance, for a bold, clear silver 
is preferable to a black of opposite appearance. In making choice 
of cochineal, you must observe that each grain exhibits a bright, 
free, clear, bold and large appearance; whether the whole mass be 
free from dust or small abraded parts of the insect, or matters 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



55 



foreign to its nature ; and whether a quantity of it has a certain 
weight or specific gravity, which any person much accustomed to 
testing weights can distinguish with the greatest nicety. Cochineal 
is the richest in coloring principle of all the known dyestuffs, having 
50 per cent, of pure crystalizable coloring principle; its clear and 
filtered solution, with the different mordants or mineral salts, etc., 
also in solution, present the following results : 

Tannin does not throw down any precipitate. 

Boracic acid does not change the color, but rather reddens it 
more. 

Nitrate and nitro-muriate of per-oxide of iron precipitates a 
chocolate colored lake, the nitro-muriate the brightest. 

Bi-sulphate of copper, a red purple deposit, a portion of the color 
remains in solution. 

Potash, Soda and Ammonia change it to a crimson violet. 

Protoxides of Tin produce the same effect. 

Per-oxide of Tin changes it to a yellowish red. 

Chlorine turns it yellow. 

Sulphate of magnesia, no precipitate, the solution unaffected. 

Lime gives scanty precipitates of a violet or deep lilac color. 

Oxalic acid turns the solution orange color. 

Citric acid similar effects, but of a redder hue. 

Super-tartrate of potash brightens up the solution, causing it to 
assume a fine scarlet color, and a slight precipitate falls of a red 
color. 

Super-oxalate of potash produces more decided effects of the 
same character as the preceding. 

Alum gives the liquor a fine crimson appearance and a moderate 
precipitate of the same color takes place, the liquor still retaining 
considerable coloring matter, which a solution of nitro-muriate of 
tin precipitates of a more decided scarlet, leaving the liquor of a 
pale fawn color." — Gibson. 

Color. — In many fabrics the colors are quite as important as the 
texture, consequently it behooves the designer to acquire a thor- 
ough knowledge of the laws which govern their harmony. This can 
be done only when the nature of colors is thoroughly compre- 
hended. The whole combined is a science of which Ashenhurst 
says : " The science of color teaches the nature and causes of 
colors, their distinctions, their relations to each other, their classifi- 
cation, the mental effects that attend them, and the causes and laws 
of harmony. It also includes the modifications of colors arising 



56 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

from varying sensibility of the eye, and the peculiarities of color 
vision which are found to exist in different individuals." So 
important is the science that it would be folly to undertake a brief 
lucidation of it, consequently the reader is referred to " Chevreul on 
Color," a work of the highest merit, and one which cannot fail to 
interest any one who has the real requisites of a designer. The 
harmony of colors, the influence of one color over another when 
placed in close proximity to each other, are subjects which can 
only be really understood after much preparatory study. For any 
one who cannot at once interest himself in so thorough a work as 
Chevreul's we recommend the concluding chapter of Ashenhurst's 
work on " Weaving and Designing " — a brief and lucid description 
of the science of color and very important suggestions as to their 
application in textile fabrics. The following remarks from Chris- 
topher Dresser, may aid some beginners who have other necessary 
expenses to meet at present and must defer the purchase of the 
books mentioned : " There are few objects to which color may not be 
applied, and many articles which are now colorless might be 
colored with advantage. Our reasons for applying color to objects 
are twofold, and here, in fact, we see its true use. First, Color 
lends to objects a new charm — a charm which they would not 
possess if without it ; and, second, Color assists in the separation of 
objects and parts of objects, and thus gives assistance to form. 
These, then, are the two objects of color. Mark, first, it is to 
bestow on objects a charm, such as they could not have in its 
absence. In the hands of the man of knowledge it will do so — it 
will make an object lovely or lovable, but the mere application of 
color will not do this. Color may be so applied to objects as to 
render them infinitely more ugly than they were without it. 
Knowledge will enable us to transmute base materials into works of 
marvelous beauty, worth their weight in gold. Knowledge, then, is 
the true philosopher's stone ; for, we may almost say, if possessed 
by the artist, it does enable him to transmute the baser metals into 
gold. But a little knowledge will not do this. In order that we 
produce true beauty, we require much knowledge, and this can only 
be got by constant and diligent labor, as I have before said ; but the 
end to be gained is worth the plodding toil. The second object of 
color is that of assisting in the separation of form. If objects are 
placed near to one another, and these objects are all of the same 
color, the beholder will have much more difficulty in seeing the 
boundaries or terminations of each than he would were they vari- 
ously colored ; he would have to come nearer to them in order to 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 57 

see the limits of each, were all colored in the same manner, than he 
would were they variously colored : thus color assists' in the separa- 
tion of form. This quality which color has of separating forms is 
often lost sight of, and much confusion thereby results. Color is 
the means by which we render form apparent. Colors : when 
placed together, can only please and satisfy the educated when com- 
bined harmoniously, or according to the laws of harmony. What, 
then, are the laws which govern the arrangement of colors ? and 
how are they to be applied ? We shall endeavor to answer these 
questions by making a series of statements in axiomatic form, and 
then we shall enlarge upon these propositions. 

General Considerations. — 1. Regarded from an art point of view, 
there are but three colors — i. e., blue, red and yellow. 

2. Blue, red and yellow have been termed primary colors ; they 
cannot be formed by the admixture of any other colors. 

3. All colors, other than blue, red and yellow result from the ad- 
mixture of the primary colors. 

4. By the admixture of blue and red, purple is formed ; by the 
admixture of red and yellow, orange is formed ; and by the admix- 
ture of yellow and blue', green is formed. 

5. Colors resulting from the admixture of two primary colors are 
termed secondary : hence purple, orange and green are secondary 
colors. 

6. By the admixture of two secondary colors a tertiary color is 
formed : thus, purple and orange produce russet (the red tertiary) ; 
orange and green produce citrine (the yellow tertiary) ; and green 
and purple, olive (the blue tertiary) ; russet, citrine and olive are 
the three tertiary colors. 

Contrast — 7. When a light color is juxtaposed to a dark color, 
the light color appears lighter than it is and the dark color darker. 

8. When colors are juxtaposed they become influenced as to their 
hue. Thus, when red and green are placed side by side, the red 
appears redder than it actually is, and the green greener ; and when 
blue and black are juxtaposed, the blue manifests but little altera- 
tion, while the black assumes an orange tint or becomes " rusty." 

9. No one color can be viewed by the eye without another being 
created. Thus, if red is viewed, the eye creates for itself green, and 
this green is cast upon whatever is near. If it views green, red is 
in like manner created and cast upon adjacent objects; thus, if red 
and green are juxtaposed, each creates the other in the eye, and the 



58 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

red created by the green is cast upon the red, and the green created 
by the red is cast upon the green ; and the red and the green be- 
comes improved by being juxtaposed. The eye also demands the 
presence of the three primary colors, either in their purity or in 
combination ; and if these are not present, whatever is deficient 
will be created in the eye, and this induced color will be cast upon 
whatever is near. Thus, when we view blue, orange — which is a 
mixture of red and yellow — is created in the eye, and this color is 
cast upon whatever is near; if black is in juxtaposition with the 
blue, this orange is cast upon it, and gives to it an orange tint, thus 
causing it to look " rusty." 

10. In like manner, if we look upon red, green is formed in the 
eye, and is cast upon adjacent colors; or, if we look upon yellow, 
purple is formed. 

Harmony. — 11. Harmony results from an agreeable contrast. 

12. Colors which perfectly harmonize improve one another to the 
utmost. 

13. In order to perfect harmony, the three colors are necessary, 
either in their purity or in combination. 

14. Red and green combine to yield a" harmony. Red is a 
primary color, and green, which is a secondary color, consists of 
blue and yellow — the other two primary colors. Blue and orange 
also produce a harmony, and yellow and purple, for in each case 
the three primary colors are present. 

15. It has been found that the primary colors in perfect purity 
produce exact harmonies in the proportions of eight parts of blue, 
five of red and three of yellow ; that the secondary colors har- 
monize in the proportions of thirteen of purple, eleven of green and 
eight of orange ; and that the tertiary colors harmonize in the 
proportions of olive twenty-four, russet twenty-one, and citrine 
nineteen. 

16. There are, however, subtleties of harmony which it is difficult 
to understand. 

17. The rarest harmonies frequently lie close on the verge of 
discord. 

18. Harmony of color is, in many respects, analogous to harmony 
of musical sounds. 

Qualities of Colors. — 19. Blue is a cold color, and appears to 
recede from the eye. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 59 

20. Red is a warm color, and is exciting; it remains stationary as 
to distance. 

21. Yellow is the color most nearly allied to light; it appears to 
advance toward the spectator. 

22. At twilight blue appears much lighter than it is, red much 
darker, and yellow slightly darker. By ordinary gaslight blue be- 
comes darker, red brighter, and yellow lighter. By this* artificial 
light a pure yellow appears lighter than white itself, when viewed in 
contrast with certain other colors. 

23. By certain combinations color may make glad or depress, 
convey the idea of purity, richness or poverty, or may affect the 
mind in any desired manner, as does music. 

Teachings of Experience. — 24. When a color is placed on a gold 
ground, it should be outlined with a darker shade of its own color. 

25. When a gold ornament falls on a colored ground, it should 
be outlined with black. 

26. When an ornament falls on a ground which is in direct har- 
mony with it, it must be outlined with a lighter tint of its own color. 
Thus, when a red ornament falls on a green ground, the ornament 
must be outlined with a lighter red. 

27. When the ornament and the ground are in two tints of the 
same color, if the ornament is darker than the ground, it will re- 
quire outlining with a still darker tint of the same color; but if 
.lighter than the ground, no outline will be required." 

The surest and readiest method of acquiring a practical knowl- 
edge of colors and their effects in textile fabrics, is to analyze a 
large collection of samples. Fashion controls the designer to a great 
extent; and fashion moves in cycles. Exhaustive collections of the 
most fashionable colors and combinations of each season, with a 
proper record of particulars, will not only add to one's stock of 
knowledge, but any one who is at all observant will, after a while, be 
enabled to prognosticate coming demands of fashions, with consid- 
erable accuracy. The value of this ability needs no comments, 
every designer has suffered more or less from a lack of it, both in 
himself and in those who assume the control of the patterns in the 
market. 

Combing and Combing Machinery. — Combing is an old branch 
of textile manufactures, but the perfection of the machinery 
employed is the result of many inventions within the last fifty 
years. Camel hair, cotton, flax, silk and wool are extensively 
combed. The best work on wool combing, etc., is Leroux's 



6o SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

" Manufacture of Worsted and Carded Yarns." The works on 
these subjects are still very few, in the English language. 

Combs or Comber Boards are the parts of Jacquards through 
which the leashes pass, and by which they are kept in regular order 
and separate. 

Cords.:;— This term, when used to designate certain effects in 
fabrics, is erroneously applied in many cases. Ribs of various 
kinds running either lengthwise or crosswise are given this appella- 
tion by different designers, but the best authorities seem to agree 
that the only effect that can properly be called a cord is a rib 
lengthwise of the goods, evenly and entirely covered by regular floats 
of the filling. That there may be variations no one will deny, 
but reps should not be called cords nor cords reps. 

Cotton. — Cotton is a fibrous down, which invests the seeds of a 
peculiar plant, called gossypium by Linnaeus. It has a cup-shaped 
calix, with five obtuse teeth, enclosed in an exterior calix having 
three clefts. Botanists describe thirteen species of this plant, which 
furnish the very dissimilar staples found in commerce. The length, 
flexibility, tenacity and thickness of the fibres of the different de- 
scriptions of cotton form the basis for estimating the value of the 
article. When examined through a good microscope, the fibres of 
cotton are seen to be more or less flat and twisted, and to have a 
breadth varying from j±o of an inch in the Smyrna, or candle-wick 
cotton, to 25V0 °f an mcn m tne finest Sea Island. The fineness of 
the cotton, where No. 500 is spun, is apparent from the following 
circumstance. It is said that a house in Manchester, England, is 
preparing a fabric for the Great Industrial Exhibition of London, 
which is to be spun from a pound of cotton, and to extend in length 
238 miles and 11 20 yards. There are in the warp eighty layers of 
a yard and a half each, with seven warps to the hank and 500 hanks 
in the pound of cotton. This is a thread which is finer than the 
finest silk, and cannot contain more than three or four fibres of the 
finest Sea Island cotton. The main distinction between the various 
kinds of cotton in the pod is the black seeded and the green seeded. 
The first separate from the fibre very easily, while the latter adhere 
to it with great tenacity and require the aid of the gin to separate 
them from it. After the cotton is separated from the seed, it is 
packed in strong presses and formed into bales of from 200 to 500 
pounds each. Bales of American cotton generally weigh about 500 
pounds each. — Baird, (See Baird's Cotton Spinner for description 
of different kinds.) 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 6l 

Crape Silk. — Barlow says " the process of making it (crape silk) 
consists in extra spinning, sizing and stoving, and not in any peculi- 
arity in weaving." Imitations are made to appear like real silk 
crape in the finishing processes, such as running the fabric through 
heavy size and crimping machinery. 

Cross Drawing. — The definition of this term is already given in 
an allusion to it under the head Draw. The beginner is always im- 
patient to master this mysterious part of designing. Mysterious : 
first, because some men foolishly think they add to their own im- 
portance if they can be mysterious about their labors. Second, 
because many are very unsystematic about the arrangement of their 
drafts, or even worse, do their work without thoroughly understand- 
ing the principles. However this may be, the secret of success is 
not so much in great skill as in perseverance and practicability. 
Neither is there any serious complexity about it, as one would think 
from the awe it has inspired. The principle is one and simple. 
Whenever the drawing in hand comes to a thread which is to work 
the same as a previous one, it must be drawn in on the same 
harnesses. That is : threads which work exactly alike may be 
governed by one and the same harness. To reduce a full draft to 
working drafts, is the most confusing part of the work. It is not 
always best to follow to the letter the above cited principle, and yet 
it is'"' desirable to use as few harnesses as possible. The few 
examples selected for illustrations involve the principles completely, 
and are so simple as to be easily understood. The alphabetical order 
of headings brings them into the first part of the book, while simple 
textures are illustrated further on. The latter should be well 
understood before going on with these. (See Textures.) No. 37 is 
a texture that can be woven on any loom that will produce a 4 leaf 
twill, simply by drawing in the threads on 4 harnesses in' the order 
specified by the drawing-in draft. We will suppose that the full 
draft has been obtained by dissecting a sample. Begin at the left 
hand, examine every column of squares (columns represent warp 
threads, lines filling). The first is to be marked No. 1, the second 
works differently, it cannot therefore be drawn on the same harness 
as the first thread, consequently we assign to it the second harness 
and mark it 2. The third thread is marked 3 for the same reason, 
and the fourth, 4. But the fifth thread is like the first again, there- 
fore, it may be drawn on the same harness as the first thread — and 
is marked 1 ; the sixth thread is marked 2 ; the seventh 3 ; the 
eighth 4, for the same reason. The ninth thread is like the second; 



62 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

consequently marked 2 ; the tenth like the first and marked 1 ; the 
eleventh, 4; and the twelfth, 3 ; and so on the end, the entire fabric 
being a repetition of the first 4 threads, but in different order. 
After marking each thread below as per upper line of numbers by 
the above method, we have only to write these numbers in the form 
most convenient for the drawing in hand, for really this line of 
numbers is the drawing-in draft. We have found that only 4 
harnesses are necessary for this texture ; therefore, we confine the 
drawing in draft to 4 columns of squares, and copy the line of 
numbers into these columns, always putting the figures, in the 
respective column. The form employed here puts only one figure 
on a line, this avoids all confusion, but it takes a little more paper 
than putting such figures as come in consecutive order on the same 
line each time. Again, some designers instead of writing the 
figures in the v Drawing-in draft, use only a mark, this answers the 
purpose when understood. The Drawing-in draft having been 
deduced, the chain draft is next in order. Copy the first column 
from the full draft in another place on the paper, find the second by 
the row of numbers below, copy it next to the first, the same with 
the third and fourth. The result is the chain draft, a plain 4-harness 
twill, which, by the way, could be seen complete and intact on the 
first 4 threads of the full draft. By examining the other examples it 
will be noticed that this is not always the case; the representative 
harnesses being less regular in their order of occurrence in 
some of them. Let us suppose that we have a fancy loom 
to weave this fabric on ; that we may employ eight harnesses, 
which is desirable when there are many threads in the warp. 
Let the student give the full draft a little thought ; he will see 
that it has eight threads with the twill to the right, eight with 
the twill to the left, eight with a broken twill ; eight with twill 
to the right again, eight with twill to the left again, and eight with 
a basket texture. We will, therefore, divide it evenly and produce 
a systematic draft by taking four harnesses for the right hand twill, 
four more for the left hand twill, and divide the threads of the 
broken twill and the basket texture among these two sets. The 
second row of figures below the draft is the manner in which the 
work can thus be divided among eight harnesses. The student 
should see if these figures have been put down correctly, and draw 
off the working drafts ; then compare with the one (B) given ; in 
this way practice is at once applied. No. 40 can be woven on four 
harnesses, as is shown by the working drafts (B) deduced ; but some 
designers recommend five harnesses, thinking that the harnesses 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 63 

work better in the loom. [See Drafts "A."] But if any harnesses 
are to be added, it would seem that " C " would be far better. They 
all produce the same thing. The student should reduce the full 
draft to each of them, and thereby learn that cross draws are only 
limited by the number of harnesses employed ; that in reality they 
are made use of for the purpose of producing the full draft with 
less harnesses than it would require were one harness given to each 
thread of the texture or pattern, regardless of the many which would 
work alike, and could therefore be spared. On the jacquard there 
is no cross-drawing, as the threads of a texture or pattern are all 
provided for by an independent mail and corresponding cord. Nos. 
38 and 39 are given for practice of the beginners; they involve the 
same principles, but, being larger, look a little more difficult. 



6 4 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



NO. 37. 

FULL DRAFT OF TEXTURE. 



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68 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



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SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 69 

Cross Weaving. — By cross weaving — that is, by twisting the warp 
threads around each other — the fabrics called gauze are produced. 
The process of weaving these crossed fabrics should be somewhat 
slower than for straight work, and the yarn must be strong enough 
to bear considerable extra strain and chafing. The threads to be 
crossed must always pass through the same dent of the reed, unless 
the crossing is done by a needle bar before the reed, some of the 
warp threads coming through it without going through the reed. 
The needle bar mechanism is quite complicated ; there are several 
patents in England, and one in this country issued to J. G. Spitzli 
some years ago. When the crossing is done by harnesses, one thread 
passes through a regular heddle and a doup or false heddle on a 
separate frame ; the next thread passes between these two heddles, 
but not through them, and over the other thread. To produce this 
gauze effect in combination with other textures requires more com- 
plicated arrangements. In connection with the jacquard head, 
most elegant fabrics of this class are produced. This subject is 
exhaustively treated by Ashenhurst and Barlow. The principle is 
very useful when inside selvages must be made on a wide loom 
weaving several widths of narrow goods ; by thus twisting a few 
of the selvage threads the goods may be cut apart ; while they 
will still have a " raw edge," the outside threads will not ravel out. 

Crystals of Tin. — Salts of tin, or muriate of tin crystallized. 

Cudbear. — This coloring matter is archil in a very dry and 
powdered state. The color given by cudbear is perhaps less bright, 
but more permanent than that from archil, but still very fugitive. 
Although the colors given by it are fugitive, it is used consider- 
ably in woolen dyeing for giving the indigo shade to logwood blues, 
blooming up the dahlia shades and all colors that require a purple 
shade to them, such as mulberries, peachblows, puces, etc. It is 
also used with camwood at the present time to bottom for indi- 
go blues, so as to save indigo. The following recipe is used by 
most dyers for bottoming 200 pounds clean wool, or 400 pounds in 
the grease : Bail up 30 pounds of camwood, 15 pounds of cudbear; 
enter the wool and boil one hour; then draw off the tub, take out 
the wool and extract ; it is then ready for the blue vat. Cudbear 
has all the characteristics of archil, and reagents produce the same 
results on both. Tartar, (CH 2 2 ) is the only mordant that is of 
any account for cudbear ; it brightens up the color and enables it 
to resist the fulling and scouring much better. Colors, when archil 
and cudbear enter into their composition, should be dried in the 



JO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

shade and preserved from the rays of the sun. Cudbear should be 
mixed with water into a paste before putting into the dye-bath, 
otherwise it would float on the surface ; it requires no boiling before 
the wool or cloth is entered into the solution. 



D. 

Damask. — Was formerly made of silk only, now of wool or 
worsted, and fabrics part cotton, with figured texture like the 
genuine article, are by no means uncommon in the trade under this 
name, derived from Damascus. 

Dandy Looms. — The original Dandy was a hand-loom invented 
by Wra. Radcliffe, an Englishman. His latest improvements were 
added to the loom about the year 1802, some time after several 
power looms had been in successful operation. The general use 
made of this loom even at that late date shows how difficult it was 
for many manufacturers to realize the advantage of power looms. 
Some of the principles which made Mr. Radcliffe's loom noteworthy 
are still employed on many power looms of recent manufacture. 

Dead Spindles. — What are known as dead spindles are but 
modifications of the live spindles, for the purpose of attaining 
greater speed. The difference in quality of work from the two 
kinds is in favor of the live spindle, which seldom performs more 
than 4,000 revolutions, and is consequently being superseded by 
much more rapid working devices. 

Designs. — W. Dunlap says : " Design, in its broadest significa- 
tion, is the plan of the whole; in its limited sense it denotes merely 
drawing — the art of representing form." There may be a design of 
the texture, or a design for the arrangement of colors, but a design 
of a textile fabric, when complete, is a perfect working plan, descrip- 
tive and illustrative of the arrangement and character of all the com- 
ponent parts and processes. It designates the kind and quality of 
the materials, the color, size and character of each kind of yarn, as 
well as the arrangement, quantity and proportion thereof. It illus- 
trates the construction of the texture, and describes special pro- 
cesses. It provides thorough working instructions for each depart- 
ment. To be complete and perfect, it should be so comprehen- 
sive that any good manager could from it produce the desired 
fabric without further instructions. It should with all be an artistic 
piece of work. If it is proper to produce working plans for a build- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



71 



ing with taste, neatness and precision, surely these requisites are 
much more necessary in a design which should originate from a per- 
fect knowledge of that which pleases the human sense of sight. The 
practical use of a complete design is that of a chart of instructions, 
which remains at headquarters for reference and future use. The 
several departments are given copies of their respective parts of the 
design. Many designers object to furnish copies of designs for 
future use, under the foolish impression that by this means they 
enhance their own value. A more ridiculous theory would be hard 
to find ; worse than this, the design is the result of labor for which 
the designer is usually well paid, it therefore belongs to the em- 
ployer, and the designer should take every pains to make it legible 
to any good workman, in order that it could be produced at any 
time without the aid of the originator. We are aware that this is 
not a popular doctrine among a certain class of designers, but it is 
none the less sound. Without reference to unnecessary detail or 
decoration of designs, the statement may be safely made, that a 
design in its appearance on paper should exhibit skill and taste 
quite as much as the fabric for which it is executed. To this end, 
some education and practice is an absolute necessity. The simplest 
design may, without waste of time, be a specimen of neat and in- 
telligent workmanship. 

Designers. — For a time many manufacturers of this country 
thought to economize by dispensing with designers and requiring 
the overseers of the weaving rooms or the superintendent to do the 
work. They found many ambitious and jealous workmen to en- 
courage this move, but a large proportion have learned that the 
change was not all clear gain, and have already re-engaged de- 
signers. Some few have also profited by former lessons, and never 
allow the ambition of a designer or the jealousy of a superintendent 
to get the mastery over them. The prevention is simple ; the super- 
intendent and designer are given clear instructions as to their 
authority and relation to each other, and the matter of promotion 
is also positively qualified. The designer has no reason to hope for 
the superintendent's position if the latter vacates his place for any 
other reason than such as can in no way reflect any suspicion of 
intrigue upon the designer or his friends. The designer is not 
above, but under the superintendent, and can be removed by 
him. Under these circumstances it is an easy matter to regulate 
both, and should ill feeling arise the power and influence is not 
equal. The designer cannot revenge himself by working out the 
superintendent, nor is the latter tempted to proceed any differently 



72 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

in discharging the designer than he should do with any other 
workman. That the labors of a designer can be thoroughly at- 
tended to by one who has other duties to occupy his mind and time 
is out of the question, unless the amount of designing to be done is 
very limited. The designer should have no other operatives under 
his special authority than his assistants and the pattern weavers; he 
should, however, have a most influential voice in decisions relative 
to designs, patterns, colors, finish and such matters as materially 
affect the result of his labors, subject always to the superintendent's 
decision as to the possibility and practicability of carrying out such 
details as he may suggest, in the factory in question. As regards 
the education of designers, it must be acknowledged that America 
is yet far in the wake of England, France and Germany. Too 
much dependence has been placed upon the natural adaptability of 
American citizens to almost any convenient calling. The special 
and thorough training under the direction and supervision of prac- 
tical as well as expert tutors has but of late awakened attention, 
and even now many of those who should be the most forward in 
aiding every effort to supply this want are carefully pinching their 
dollars and waiting for some one else to bear the brunt of the 
battle. But schools for the practical education of the rising genera- 
tion must be established in this country, else the ground lost by the 
lack of them will be greater and greater, as mechanical genius in- 
creases the demands upon mental ability. 

Designing is a branch of textile manufacturing of such import- 
ance and peculiar requirements, that it can be performed thoroughly 
and correctly by those only, who have more or less natural qualifi- 
cations for it. It is exceedingly tedious and trying work under the 
most favorable circumstances. When the designer seems to be idly 
staring into vacancy he is perhaps laboring in a most trying manner. 
He must develop a design in his mind, to a certain extent, before he 
can proceed to commit it to paper. Designing a texture is not 
enough ; a complete design comprehends everything pertaining to 
the manufacture of the finished fabric ; neither does designing stop 
here. The design will be almost useless if it calls for expendi- 
tures so great that the manufacture of the fabric will yield no 
revenue to the manufacturer. In designing a fabric then, the details 
of all the processes, the nature of material, dyes and effects must be 
considered. "To fit the young designer not only to perform these 
duties in their entirety, but to train his mind to a realizing sense of 
the importance of every detail, requires far more time at present 
than need be spent in preparations. The cost of time and impossi- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 73 

bility of obtaining ready encouragement in many instances deters 
really promising young men from making a determined attempt to 
master this art. 

Design Books. — A careful record of designs, however familiar 
they may seem, is a great advantage in after years. Notwithstand- 
ing this matter is sadly neglected by many it is of paramount im- 
portance. For this purpose design books are supplied. To be con- 
venient they should contain design paper, ruled or printed (or both), 
to suit the character of designs to be recorded , by this means a 
somewhat tedious task is made easier, and the result is much more 
satisfactory. We know of old men who have made designs enough 
in their day to be now worth several thousand dollars if they had been 
properly recorded. As an instance of special ruling for design 
books, those now to be had for designs of fancy cassimeres will 
serve well. The pages should be ruled in sections. There may be 
either two, four or six sections, or even more in the width of a 
page ; each section to be about as wide as 30 columns of squares. 
The length of the section is not so arbitrary ; yet, when too long the 
book becomes inconvenient and space is wasted, when too short 
many designs will be too long and have to be continued in the next 
sections, which is very inconvenient. These sections are ruled alike 
horizontally, but only each alternate one is ruled perpendicularly to 
make " quadrille." The left hand or first one (ruled only one way) 
is for the record of warp and filling, and the other for the Drawing-in 
draft and chain draft. By being careful to keep the enumeration of 
the threads of the warp on the same lines with the numbers of the 
respective harnesses, and the enumeration of the filling threads upon 
the same lines with the respective bars of the chain draft, much 
trouble and confusion will be avoided, and neatness will be a marked 
feature of the book with a little care. 

Design Paper. — The selection of design paper being now possi- 
ble, it is no longer economy to use one kind only. For large pat- 
terns-'-particularly jacquard designs — the fine lithographic paper is 
a necessity. Even this comes in large varieties, that the designer 
may use paper to suit his work. Different sizes of squares and 
blocks, different colors of print and qualities of paper are the essen- 
tial differences. Ruled paper cannot be made so fine and regular 
as the printed paper, but it comes comparatively cheaper. If 
for the large designs, we use finer ruled paper, and for the smaller 
ones coarser ruled, the convenience in writing and reading will 
be very remarkable. Large designs on finer paper, although 



74 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

they must be wrought much finer, are easier to work and read, be- 
cause the area is not so large as on coarser paper, and the latter 
when used for smaller patterns will still be kept within convenient 
bounds and make reading easier. Different sizes of sheets are also 
very essential. Woolen mills which have a set way of writing their 
drafts can save much paper by having their design paper ruled to 
order. The form of ruling suggested for Design Books is very good. 
Design paper should never be kept rolled up It is the best way to 
transport it in small quantities, but if kept so will get out of shape. 
Pads are very good on this account. 

Designing Rooms. — That designers should have rooms, well 
lighted and ventilated, large, convenient, quiet and inaccessible to 
any one but those who have important business there, is a fact, but 
the importance of it does not seem to penetrate some craniums. 
Designing is work which requires the closest application of mind 
possible ; if a mind is thus engaged, interruptions, inconveniences 
and unnecessary difficulties not only cost time but a far greater tax 
upon the mental powers. A poorly lighted room, therefore, is a loss 
to the employer and an injury to the persons who must work in. 
it. A designing room should not be on the first floor of a 
building closely surrounded by others of the same or greater 
height. East, west and north windows, with convenient curtains 
and blinds for modifying or shutting out the light, are neces- 
sary. If only one side can be lighted the north light is usually pre- 
ferred. The matter of ventilation in rooms where persons must stay 
for hours at a time is now pretty generally understood, but sadly 
neglected. Few designers can do their best when cramped for 
room ; this will be appreciated by those only, who have had many 
designs to keep track of, sometimes several in hand, and those who 
know how many conveniences and apparatus are needed, which 
should have convenient places provided for their storage as well as 
use. Perfect quiet is a great help ; for this reason, the designing 
room should be separate from all else ; the pattern room, where the 
racket and jar of the pattern looms seldom ceases, is no place for 
close application of mind. To keep those out who love to impose 
their presence wherever or whenever they are not wanted is quite a 
task in a factory if the arrangements of the rooms cannot in a 
measure be depended upon. The furniture of the room is a matter 
of no little importance, but few designers agree in the details they 
require. A large table, a low and a high desk, shelves and drawers 
in abundance ; also, racks for sample yarns should always be sup- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 75 

plied. Chairs or stools are a matter of choice, best left to the one 
who is to occupy them. 

Dissecting. — Is dissecting or " picking out " necessary ; if so, 
what is the best manner of procedure ? To answer this double 
question it will be necessary to consider what is understood by dis- 
secting ; if getting at the texture is all, there are many patterns 
which need but a glance to satisfy one who has had much experi- 
ence. But if dissecting in its full comprehension is considered, the 
character of the finish, colors, threads and fibers must be ascer- 
tained, as well as the particulars of the texture. How any one can 
do all this with the naked eye, or without picking to pieces even to 
the very fibers, and not jump at some conclusions, is a problem the 
solution of which will probably never appear. One needs to read 
few notices like the one from which the following quotation is taken 
to become convinced that the time has arrived when the means of 
distinguishing fibers are imperative : " Mr. Gideon Hamilton has, 
after much research and experimenting, succeeded in discovering a 
chemical process by which the fundamental difference between 
animal hair and wool fibre is actually removed. It is well known 
that the difficulty of employing wool and cotton or hair simultane- 
ously for textile purposes arises from the fact that both materials 
cannot be homogeneously spun and milled or fulled. The cause of 
the difficulty exists in the different natural structure of the two 
kinds of fibre : the animal hair being straight and slippery, while 
the wool fibre is curly and crisp. The point of the new invention 
is this, that by the agency of certain chemical substances the animal 
hair is so efficiently curled that it permanently retains its altered 
structure during all the manipulations of manufacturing cassimeres, 
cloakings, felt goods, etc., and can be dyed equally fast together 
with wool by one and the same process. The importance of this 
invention is obvious. First, an organic combination of animal hair 
and wool fibre is produced; secondly, a splendid substitute for 
shoddies and artificial wools is found." But it is not only to find 
the kind of material used in a sample to be dissected, that fibers 
must be examined as never before. The character of a fiber, the 
effects of various processes upon it; the direction and amount of 
twist and many other details are often necessary to produce 
a peculiarity in appearance which may be the only special merit of 
the piece of goods in hand. The less a man knows about special 
requirements of his calling, the louder is his ridicule of all their 
claims as a necessity to perfect work ; but the time has passed and 
gone for designers of this kind. Manufacturers are rapidly awaken- 



j6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

ing to the realization of the fact that to compete with Europe the 
designers employed must be of the most advanced kind. The 
best operatives, stock and machinery can be employed to the best 
advantage, only when the factory is supplied with the most accurate 
plans, in which economy, product and good effect are well com- 
bined. Having given sufficient evidence of the need of dissecting 
in its entirety, some suggestions as to method will be in order. 
Few who ask to be shown the method have any inclination to be 
methodical, yet this is one of the most prominent characteristics 
which must be practiced and developed. We recommend that the 
texture be ascertained first, because while doing this threads are 
drawn out ; these, if carefully preserved in their proper order, may 
themselves be dissected in due time without further mutilation of a 
sample, be the sample large or small ; this is a saving of time, if 
nothing more. Gesner gives no instructions for dissecting the text- 
ure, but says : 

" Every woven fabric is composed of two sets or systems of 
threads or yarn. If it is necessary to follow a certain specimen in 
hand, the following questions present themselves : 

(i.) Which are the warp and which the filling threads? 

(2.) Of what material are they made, and what are their special 
characteristics ? 

(3.) How many warp and filling threads are necessary ? 

a. Which are the warp threads and which the filling ? 

(1.) If on the sample in hand there is a bit of selvage the question 
is readily answered, since the selvage always runs in the direction of 
the warp. 

(2.) Are the threads one way doubled and twisted, and the others 
single, it is almost safe to take the twisted threads for warp. 

(3). If the threads one way are single or double cotton and the 
others single woolen yarn the cotton is almost invariably the warp. 

(4.) Do the threads of one set or system produce a regular or set 
effect, the other less prominent and irregular, the first are the warp, 
the latter the filling threads without doubt. 

(5.) Are the threads one way sized, the others not, the latter must 
be the filling, the warp having been sized before or while weaving. 

(6.) Do the threads one way appear straight and regular, the other 
way loose, rough, displaced or not strictly regular in their own 
direction, the straight yarn may be safely assumed to be the warp. 

(7.) Reed marks of any kind will show which is the warp. 

(8.) The nap, if any, is very reliable, as it is supposed to lay in the 
same direction with the warp. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 77 

(9.) The twist in the yarn is often the best means of answering 
this question, the hardest and strongest thread is the warp. 

Exceptions to these instructions occur but seldom. In many 
fabrics the difference and the reasons for said difference in the yarn 
are so clear as to require little examination. That the warp 
thread is usually the smoothest, strongest, also of the longest and 
best material is a very safe rule to follow. 

b. Of what material are they made? 

While examining the yarns to decide the first question, the answer 
to this is often obtained without further effort. The size and twist 
of the yarn should have especial consideration. To distinguish the 
material requires perfect familiarity with the peculiarities of all kinds 
of materials, raw and manufactured. Even when such experience 
or knowledge is possessed, careful comparisons are the safest in a 
final decision of importance. 

c. How many warp and filling threads are necessary? 

The density of the fabric is altogether controlled by the texture 
and required weight and thickness. The manner of designating 
this density by special and appropriate terms has been very diversi- 
fied by the different systems of calculations employed in different 
localities. The Technological schools now so numerous are doing 
much to establish a uniform system of calculations by which the 
density of yarn in fabrics is estimated by the number of threads and 
dents in reed per inch or centimeter." 

To dissect the texture proceed as follows : 

First — Determine either by the nap or by the difference in the 
strength of threads drawn from each side, which is warp and which 
is filling. Many patterns display the fact so clearly that the above 
precautions are unnecessary. 

Second — Shear the nap from the back and face as far as neces- 
sary at the right hand lower corner. For this purpose use curved 
scissors; shaving is dangerous, the threads are so easily weakened ; 
neither is singeing advisable, for the smut even from the smoke of a 
spirit lamp is disagreeable, and it is more than likely that too large 
a surface will be bared, the colors affected by the heat, or, even 
worse, the thread charred so much as to break when being drawn 
out. Of course experience will teach one to do almost anything, 
but the safest way is best for most people. 

Third — Having thus prepared the sample proceed to cut out a 
little piece of the lower right hand corner, as shown in figure No. 1 
by the lines ABC. Save this little piece, it may be of use after- 



78 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



wards. Next turn the sample until the cut corner is at the upper 
left hand, as in the illustrations. The corner to be cut is designated 
as the lower left hand corner, because it is taken for granted that 
having found the warp and filling, the sample will be held in such a 
way as to have the warp in the perpendicular direction, the filling 
horizontal or lateral, and if the cloth has a nap, that the nap lay- 
downward as worn in a garment, and that it will always be so held, 
when under consideration, unless reversed as above directed. The 
reversing is an obvious precaution after one has observed how much 
easier a filling thread comes out with the nap than against it. 

Fourth — Make a straight cut from D to F ; this should be in the 
third pattern from the cut corner. To make the counting of patterns 
easy let some prominent or conspicuous thread, if there be any, 
remain as the first thread ; elongate or shorten the space, A B C, to 
obtain this desideratum. 

FIG. NO. 1. 




Note. — The engraver has failed to be systematic in his work. The cut D E F 
should be in the same place in all three figures at the beginning of the third 
pattern ; it need not be so wide, or always so long. In No. 3 the marked threads 
are not represented as regular as they ought to be. 

Fifth — Fasten the sample to a piece of card board (or one of the 
sample stretchers which can now be purchased very cheap) with a 
few but firm stitches. Then the card is slipped under the stage 
springs. All this and some of the following is to be omitted when 
no instrument is used, in which case the sample is held stretched 
over the left forefinger, by the thumb at one end and by the second 
finger at the other end. 

Sixth — Next ascertain which lens is necessary to give a clear 
view of the threads, always bearing in mind that as soon as the lens 
is so strong as to magnify the fibers too much they come into 
prominence sufficiently to be really a confusing trouble. To ascer- 
tain which lens to use will fix the focus as well. 

Seventh — Having the microscope and sample in readiness, draw 
out with the greatest care one filling thread after the other until all 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



79 



the space is clear, as in figure No. 2. This should always be done 
under a magnifying lens, even while a lack of practice makes the 
task slow and more difficult. Use a pair of forceps to draw the 
threads if possible ; they do not split warp threads like the needles. 
The great difficulty occasioned by threads which have been split 
or untwisted by the needle in this necessary preliminary process will 
soon teach one to take every precaution to avoid the difficulty ; 
one of the results of such a lesson is that the aid of a microscope 
will be courted for this part of the work, even when it can be dis- 
pensed with further on. The threads drawn out should be.saved in 
their regular order ; this will afford much aid in determining the 
order of the filling threads, serve as samples of the yarn for dis- 
section, and to be used as guides for the dyer, etc., etc. 

Eighth — The projecting warp threads should now be examined ; 
if there are not several threads especially conspicuous, on account 
of color, size or kind, some of them should be marked either by 
staining or shortening to serve as tally threads in keeping the count 

FIG. NO. 2. 




correct. Brush out all the loose fibres in the projecting threads. 
This done, draw forward the first filling thread just enough to 
loosen it from the fabric, when the sample should appear about like 
figure No. 3. All these preliminaries are tedious, and one is 
tempted to slight them, but this should never be done ; many 
seconds spent in preparing will save long minutes in the work to 
follow, to say nothing of discouraging annoyances. 

Ninth — To prepare the paper for the reception of the draft, as 
taken from the sample, should be next attended to ; mark off as 
many perpendicular columns of squares as there are projecting 
warp threads in two repetitions of the pattern, each of these per- 
pendicular columns will then represent a warp thread, and should 
be marked at the top if any of the threads have been marked, or 
are otherwise conspicuous. Always ascertain if there are any back- 
ing warp threads ; if so, also, the order in which they occur, and 
mark the respective columns on the paper. 



8o 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Tenth — Examine the sample and paper carefully to make sure 
that every detail has been observed and complied with. Mentally 
assign the lateral lines of squares upon the paper to represent 
filling-threads, for they are next to be filled in the same order as 
would be adopted in common writing. 

Eleventh — Everything is now in readiness to read off the texture; 
note how the warp threads cross the loosened filling thread, whether 
over or under it ; if over it, prick two holes in the corresponding 
square, one if under, noting each warp thread in its regular order (a 
very important point, wherein the inexperienced meet the most 
difficulty) ; having filled all the spaces of the first lateral line of 
squares as far as previously marked off, if sure there is no error, the 
filling thread may be taken out entirely, the loose fibers brushed out, 
and the next filling thread loosened; the lateral line of squares 
represent the filling threads in their proper order as the same 
squares in perpendicular lines or columns represent the warp 
threads. Thus, proceed with each filling thread, marking each line 
at the left hand if any difference exist among them in color, size or 

FIG. NO. 3. 




stock. When enough has been picked out is a matter which each 
man's experience will teach him. Some can tell after the first few 
threads how the rest will run, but the beginner should continue 
until the pattern begins to repeat the second time. When some one 
is ready and willing to write the marks into the squares as called off, 
much time is saved. Some drop the dissecting needle to pick up 
pen or pencil rather than prick the paper, or they use a slate or 
pegging board, but this is all a matter of choice. Some textures 
can hardly be dissected from the filling sides, but these are excep- 
tional cases ; when they occur, reverse the sample and proceed as if 
the warp were the filling. The marks will then be right on the paper 
only when also reversed, as in Ashton's instruction. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 8 I 

Twelfth — The next move will be to deduce the drafts from the 
memorandums taken from the sample. To do this, proceed as in 
deducing drafts from designs originated. (See Textures.) As re- 
gards the use of instruments, little need be said; they make a way 
into every thinking man's favor with little help. While some 
authors recommend magnifying glasses for cotton only, others reject 
all optical aid. While some advise a shawl pin for a dissecting 
point, others call for a coarse needle in a piece of wood for a handle. 
Indeed, so many opinions have already been expressed, and so 
arbitrarily, to say more seems to be adding to the confusion. 
By calling attention to points not brought to notice by others some 
good may be done. First, then, as regards optical aid, we hold that 
the strongest eyes cannot endure the tax of picking out continu- 
ously for any length of time, but by. the use of instruments suited 
to the work and the eyes, this time may be prolonged and the work 
done with greater ease and accuracy. In place of proper dissecting 
needles the shawl pin may do for Scotch cheviots and the like ; the 
coarse needle may be an improvement upon the pin, but neither of 
these are a credit to a man who follows a calling, the life and soul 
of which is a natural disposition to habits of taste and neatness 
which alone can beget the same characteristics in designs. Further- 
more, a dissecting needle should not have a point like a pin or 
sewing needle, but should taper regularly from the point to within 
one-third of the length from the base, and nearly all of this one- 
third should be taken into a delicate but firm and strong needle 
holder, which will permit a change of needles to suit the work. 
Four or five different kinds of needles should always be at hand, 
three sizes of round pins, one or two sizes of straight flat needles, 
and at least one size of bent flat needles. The flat needle has the 
advantage of affording strength and less obstruction to the view 
than a round one, while a bent one allows a different angle for the 
holder, sometimes necessary when working with a short focus instru- 
ment. The other instruments which are almost as indispensable as 
the needles are a pair each of very fine, delicate, curved, elbow and 
straight scissors, a pair of good stage forceps, at least one good dis- 
secting knife, and some linen provers to use separately or with 
microscope. The curved scissors admit the blades close to any fiat 
surface ; with the elbow scissors one may make a cut in a mounted 
sample when on the stage, while the straight ones are always needed. 
• The forceps will pick up a fiber, thread or even a bit of flocks that 
would be too small for the most delicate fingers ; when once accus- 
tomed to them they will be found so convenient that they will be in 
6 



82 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

constant use when dissecting. The dissecting knife is often needed 
to cut where or what the scissors cannot reach. Linen provers, 
with or without lenses, are nothing more or less than gauges where- 
by the threads may be correctly spaced and counted. 

Other methods are recommended by various authors; one of the 
instructions recently made public, direct the operator to fasten the 
sample to a circle made by pasting the two ends of a strip of card 
board together, but fails to point out any advantages in favor of this 
novel contrivance for filling the hands with unnecessary articles. 
A better method when a sample is to be dissected for the texture 
without optical aid, is to sew the sample to a round ball of convenient 
size upon the end of a suitable handle. The ball, when smoothly 
covered with a knit fabric, is a good foundation upon which the 
sample may be fastened quickly. There is no trouble in procuring 
these ready-made. Ashton recommends the following order of pro- 
ceedings : " When a draft is required, examine the cloth to see if 
there is any nap on the back of it ; if there is, it should be burned 
off by means of a lighted match, care being taken not to burn the 
threads. If the sample should be a cotton pattern, a magnifying- 
glass must be used. Next, remove as many of the filling-threads as 
will leave about one-eighth of an inch fringe. If there are any 
double and twist threads in the warp or filling, always commence 
with them. Remove as many of the warp threads as of the filling. 
When raising the threads be careful not to split those of the warp. 
Now, having the sample prepared, take it in the left hand between 
the forefinger and thumb, holding it so that the second finger may 
secure the threads as they are picked out. Commence at the right- 
hand side of the sample. Note down on the designing paper all the 
threads on the filling, and call them so many threads on ; and all the 
threads under the filling, call them so many threads off. Leave as 
many blank checks as there are threads under the filling. Continue 
to work thus, until the pattern repeats itself in both warp and filling, 
and the draft is complete. Sometimes, however, there are repeats in 
samples ; these can be found by taking out two threads more than 
the pattern so called, and if both repeat, then the draft is correct, 
but if only one repeats, trace the draft until both warp and filling 
repeat. The next thing is to reduce the draft. At this point, do 
not forget that it is the filling that has been picked out, therefore, 
after the draft is complete, turn it round one square from right to 
left, and let the reduction begin at those lines representing the 
warp. Strict care must be taken that the threads are drawn into the 
heddles as indicated in each harness, otherwise the work will be a 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 83 

failure." Burns gives instruction in more minute details, but very 
similar in general principles. Baldwin differs more, and is by many 
considered more clear and to the point than the other two. The 
fact is, each has some good features to be commended, and all 
should be studied after the beginner has made progress enough to 
be able to judge them fairly. 

Dissecting the Yarn is now necessary. The information which is 
to be ascertained is important ; therefore, no pains should be spared 
nor any part of the work hurried. The size of the threads, the 
amount of twist, stock and colors, if a mixture, are the principal 
points. The nature of the color should also be investigated. To 
find the correct size of the threads in a sample there is but one 
way positively sure, that is to pick out 36, 72, or 144, just one inch 
long without tearing them in the least. Weigh these ; having thus 
found the weight of one, two or four yards of yarn, the size is easily 
estimated. But the difficulty lies in getting these threads. Some- 
times it is impossible ; at all times too slow if one has acquired a 
good judgment of sizes and the allowances necessary for the take- 
up of yarn by the curvature caused in each thread by the fabric. 
Precision and accuracy are best attained by much practice with 
samples, the size of which is positively known. Be the size ascer- 
tained by weighing, judgment, or guess work, it must not be taken 
for granted, but proved by estimating the weight of one yard of 
cloth from it. To do this the threads per inch each way must be 
found. The threads per inch in the warp must be multiplied by 
the number representing the width of the finished goods, the threads 
per inch in the filling by the number representing the width of 
the warp in the reed, in inches. The proportion of each kind 
of yarn in a pattern being known, the same proportion holds good 
in a full yard of the goods : when found, the quantity of each 
kind of yarn per yard is found in ounces by means of the yarn 
number, (ascertained in either of the three ways above mentioned.) 
Add all the weights together. If the sum of the weight per yard, 
with proper allowances for shrinkages, etc., proves correct, or as 
wanted, the estimate of the size number is right ; if not, proceed to 
revise the numbers until the work does so prove itself. In count- 
ing the threads on a piece of cloth, it is a common practice to use 
a fraction of an inch as a gauge. The errors which are liable to 
creep in this way are worth a moment's consideration. Let us sup- 
pose a :j-inch linen prover or pick glass is used ; a portion of a 
thread projects within the gauge ; it is only a small portion, say one- 
fourth of the thread, but it is dropped ; this makes one thread 



84 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

missing per inch ; in 54 inches it is 54 threads, quite an item. 
Larger gauges, then, are a decided advantage, particularly when 
counting coarse yarn; when counting the threads by patterns or 
fractions thereof, a two or three inch gauge should be used. The 
amount of twist is easily counted by laying a thread under a gauge 
upon a card, and placing them under a microscope. The fibers 
in each thread may also be counted under a good glass, and the 
proportions of mixtures ascertained to a certainty, the nature of the 
colors will be obtained at the same time. The stock is a matter of 
consideration requiring a deal of sound judgment, but the micro- 
scope is a great aid in discovering peculiarities. The stock in the 
sample should be known even when another class of stock is to be 
used in the imitation, else how can a fair judgment of the final dif- 
ference be attained. In dissecting threads the fibers are sometimes 
unruly on account of electricity upon clear cold days ; a very little 
moisture applied to the stage of the microscope or the card upon 
which the sample threads lay, does away with this difficulty. 

Dobby Loom. — The peculiarity of the dobby loom is in the appli- 
cation of a small Jacquard motion to work the harnesses. The 
Crompton Loom Works have turned out large numbers of light, 
rapid looms under this name during the last few years ; in these 
the pattern is put upon the loom in a peg chain. 

Doffer. — Upon a carding-machine the cylinders which deliver 
the stock to the combs or condensers. In the spinning-room the 
operative who doffs the bobbins. The card doffer should always 
be kept in the best of order, the wire should be fine and of good 
quality. 

Domeck. — An English name for an inferior grade of damask. 

Doubling. — Doubling the stock, while in the several slivers, has 
for its object regularity and evenness. It takes but little thought to 
comprehend the advantage of as much doubling as can be done 
judiciously ; there would indeed be no such thing as excessive 
doubling if to double many times the slivers did not need to be of 
certain sizes not always suitable to the stock, to say nothing of extra 
labor, destruction of material, waste, etc. Doubling yarn is resorted 
to, to gain strength and regularity. The ring and cap frames are the 
most rapid doubling-machines, but the quality of the work is not 
equal to that from flyer frames. The doubling from mules, well 
fitted up for the purpose, is the most perfect work of this kind at 
present attainable. It is a matter of much comment that the best 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 85 

manufacturers of France and Belgium can spin and double many 
kinds of yarn more evenly than the same class in England or 
America. The secret is largely in the fact that they do their best 
work with mules ; and yet many of their mules are built in England. 

Double Cloth. — Double cloth is referred to, and some textures 
given under the head of Textures, but Ashenhurst's remarks on the 
subject are so interesting that we quote a few leading paragraphs 
here : " Double cloth is a branch of fancy weaving which is not 
practised generally, being confined to the woollen and carpet manu- 
factures chiefly, and very little used in the cotton, silk or worsted 
manufacture, except occasionally in the latter branch for coatings, 
in which case a woollen back is woven on for the purpose of giving 
weight and warmth. Double cloth is for the most part composed of 
similar fabrics, which are sometimes interwoven at intervals and 
formed into a diversity of patterns, the two cloths being of different 
colors, the one color forming a pattern on the other. Double 
cloths are of three kinds, one formed with one warp and having two 
weft surfaces, the second formed with one weft and having two warp 
surfaces, and the third being two distinct cloths." 

Double Velvet. — This term alludes to the manner in which the 
goods are woven rather than to any special peculiarity of the 
finished goods. Two fabrics are woven together face to face ; 
afterwards severed with a knife ; the ends of the threads cut to 
separate the goods, constitute the pile or plush on each. It is diffi- 
cult to make the pile even in this way. Numerous inventions to 
aid • the weaver in this difficulty are .extant, but as yet none that 
insure the perfection that may be obtained by weaving the goods 
single. 

Dusters. — Also called Willows, or Willeys, are used for opening 
stock and removing dust, sand, etc. . They are provided with a 
cylinder revolved at a high speed containing pegs, pins or teeth ; 
under the cylinder is a screen which allows the fine rubbish to pass 
through it into a receptacle underneath the machine. The stock is 
thrown out by the cylinder, either continually, or when the case is 
opened for the purpose. 

Drafts or Draughts. — The word draft is made use of for such 
a variety of meanings in textile factories that its true application 
and derivation seems to be a matter of doubt. For convenience 
the two ways of spelling are separately employed in this work, Draft 
being used for the applications under this head, while other defini- 



86 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

tiojis and remarks may be found under the word Draught. Per- 
haps it would have been better to adopt one word, but even in this 
way, each will have several definitions ; certainly, as regards the 
convenience, there can be no doubt. The same words being fre- 
quently used in these pages, it may be well to state that draught is 
used only in connection with the draught or drawing of yarns, while 
draft is used in various connections with designs. The use of this 
word, instead of the more correct verb, dissect, by several authors 
has misled many. The true application of the word is, no doubt, 
in direct connection with the sketch of a texture made while dis- 
secting, and may without great error be extended to preparatory 
sketches of designs. Custom has established the use of the word for 
parts of designs as well. This custom is so universal in this coun- 
try that it is adopted in this work without hesitation. Under the 
head of designs will be found the remark that the design is not 
given into the works complete, but in sections or parts commonly 
called drafts. These drafts are variously executed, and of course 
depend very much on the kind of goods and factory. A few of 
them are here explained in the order delivered in some first-class 
woolen factories. 

Spoolers' Drafts specify the number and kind of spools, quantity 
of yarn on each, and how to be prepared for the warper. The 
threads or ends upon each spool should always be given, if more 
than one. If several kinds of yarn are to be put on one spool, the 
number of threads of each should be stated ; also, any other par- 
ticulars necessary to make the preparations of the yarn for the 
warper clear and correct. 

Warpers' Drafts are very similar to the spoolers, but have, in 
addition particulars of the divisions, sections or smallbeams, the 
width of the warp, the yards per piece, and the number of pieces or 
cuts total. The number of patterns per section, the number of 
threads per pattern, and their regular order is, of course, necessary. 

Drawing-In Drafts. — These are the instructions to the drawing 
in hands, by which they may readily see in what order to take the 
heddles upon the several harnesses for the purpose of drawing the 
threads into them. These drafts should be written on a large 
quadrille paper. For the designer the finer quadrille is much the 
most convenient, but when the mind and hands are occupied with 
tangled heddles, it saves time and errors, if the instructions can be 
read with ease. 

Chain Drafts. — The chain draft shows how the several harnesses 
must be moved for each pick. They are written on quadrilled 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 87 

paper (the larger the better for chain builders), each little square 
represents a respective harness, the first perpendicular column is 
devoted to the first or front harness ; the next for the second, and 
so on, until each harness required for a fabric has such a perpen- 
dicular column to represent it ; by making the first pick of all the 
columns come on a line, we are enabled to read on each line the 
position of all the harnesses when the shuttle is going through, thus 
in the following examples of one pick we would read the marks : 

12 3 4 s 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 

One raiser, two sinkers, three raisers, four sinkers, three raisers, 
two sinkers, one raiser ; because the heavy marks are put in to rep- 
resent the ball, button, peg or any other device put upon the bars 
or cards of the chain, to govern the jack which lifts the harness. 
The light marks show when the device for lowering the harnesses is 
to be operated. As each line of the draft represents a pick it also 
represents a bar or card of the chain. Chain drafts should be 
written on heavy paper (quadrilled on one side only) with a wide 
margin on all sides, because, being often handled by the edges, 
they become soiled and should be trimmed before filing. The 
chain draft is written directly under the drawing - in draft, and 
to the right of the filling draft in a complete set of drafts, and in 
the design. When copying drafts for the several departments 
(especially upon the chain draft) any special thread or threads, 
which must always appear in the same pick or harness, should be 
legibly marked ; from the above arrangement of the entire design 
this is very easy. The columns or harnesses should be numbered 
at the bottom from left to right. On the left sides the lines or 
picks should be consecutively numbered, some begin at the top, 
others at the bottom to bring the beginning of each set of figures in 
the same corner. 

The Filling Drafts are made out in many ways ; designers 
seldom do more than give the order of threads per pattern and 
number of picks per inch in loom. But a filling draft should also 
show the working of the shuttle box motion. As different box 
motions require different kinds of chains or devices for governing 
them, the variety of filling drafts is great. Some designers, how- 
ever, designate the number of shuttles to be used and the order in 
which the respective boxes are to be brought to the shed level. 
This is simple when the boxes are numbered, the shuttles lettered 
or named by the kind or color they carry. The instructions for 



88 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

raw material — those to the dyer, carder and spinner — may all be 
copied from the complete design, but they can not be called drafts. 
The word draft has yet another significance in factories ; its influ- 
ence on different kinds of work varies, but in cotton or woolen 
factories a draft is at all times bad in the carding and spinning 
rooms. Especially in worsted drawing rooms should the ventila- 
tion be such as to keep the temperature even and the air good 
without a draft from any source. Leroux says : " These work 
rooms should be well closed to prevent drafts from modifying the 
temperature, which should be as uniformly as possible — about 20 
of the centigrade thermometer. Besides varying the temperature, 
a draft will increase the evaporation of necessary moisture, and 
difficulties from electricity, besides blowing about the stock and 
small particles of waste. 

Drafting. — This appellation, instead of " dissecting " or " pick- 
ing out," is common in some districts and used even by some 
authors, but it is not strictly correct, as will be readily understood 
by a careful study of the proper application of the word "draft." 
No doubt the word is misapplied from causes arising altogether 
through misinterpretation of the words "draught," "draughtsman " 
and " draughting." 

Draught. — The draught of a drawing or spinning frame, or any 
other machine, is the process of drawing the stock, whether in a 
web, sliver or roving. Also the mechanical devices for drawing, and 
the distance or amount of drawing done. The calculations of 
draughts are very nice in some yarns, while in others a pretty good 
guess does very well. Each one who has any drawing of stock to 
look after should be well acquainted with the various ways of pro- 
ducing desired results in the most accurate manner. Much experi- 
ence is required to know stock well enough to judge the amount of 
draught it will endure or require. 

Drawing. — The Textile Designer should by all means be able to 
draw. While dealing with elementary textures the work is very 
simple, but larger designs can not be executed neatly, when no 
artistic skill is at command. " Drawing is the A B C of the archi- 
tect, engineer and surveyor." (Sir Isambarn Brunnel.) " Drawing 
supplies us with a power whereby long descriptions and pages of 
writing are at once superseded, and thus it is a condensed short- 
hand as well as a universal language." (R. Redgrave, R. A.) Since 
every textile design like the work of the architect, must be wrought 
out with mathematical precision, the production thereof may 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 89 

properly be classed under the head of Mathematical Drawing. 
Without discouraging any ambition to free hand drawing, we would 
recommend a thorough practice with mathematical instruments 
first. The best method for those who can not place themselves in 
the hands of a good tutor is to buy a standard work on mathemati- 
cal drawing, mathematical instruments and drawing materials. The 
first book of our choice would be " Mathematical Drawing Instru- 
ments and How to Use Them," by F. Edward Hulme, F. L. S., F. 
S. A. A book of this kind is as great a necessity as any the beginner 
can procure. 

Drawing Materials. — Of drawing materials quite a variety are 
needed to complete a designer's outfit ; on the subject of paper, 
pencils, etc., etc., the book above recommended contains very val- 
uable information. 

Drawing In. — This term refers to drawing the ends of the warp 
threads through the heddles, mails, etc. This work is sometimes 
given into the hands of children, or grown persons who are worse 
than many children, to save wages. It is a poor economy ; errors 
made here are seldom discovered until the cloth shows it; the time 
and expense to make it right are usually a serious tax. Drawing in 
should be done with a hook, which will not strain the eye of a new 
heddle. First, because the eye of a new heddle should have the 
best shape possible; second, because the hook, to strain the heddle, 
must bind ; if a thread happens to get between the hook and wire 
it will probably be broken or cut, causing delay and a knot, both of 
which should be avoided everywhere. To draw in a cross draw, 
the operative must read the draft frequently ; the sole dependence 
upon memory, after reading the draft a few times, is something 
people like to boast about, but it is not the best method even with a 
good memory. The drawing in is sometimes done on the loom by 
twisting the ends of a new warp to those of the old ; but the prac- 
tice is not so common as it once was. 

Draw Boy Machines. — These are devices employed to assist 
the draw boy in raising the "lingoes," which, when many in number, 
were very heavy. This device, as well as the looms upon which 
they were used, are very fully explained and illustrated by Barlow. 

Draw Looms. — The draw loom is fully explained by Barlow, 
whose introduction of the subject alone is very instructive. Ashen- 
hurst has also several pages of interesting matter on this subject. 



90 SPITZLFS MANUAL. 

Drawing Frames. — There are so many kinds needed for the dif- 
ferent kinds of work, and opinions vary so much, that we quote 
Baird on cotton drawing frames and Leroux on worsted : 

" Drawing or doubling is the next operation through which the 
cotton has to pass after it has been carded. The ends, bands or 
slivers, as they come from the card, are exceedingly tender and 
loose, the fibers of cotton not being yet arranged in the parallel 
form requisite for good spinning. Before any twist is given to the 
bands, the fibers should be in a proper position for the manufacture 
of smooth yarn. The doubling and drawing out of the bands, 
which accomplishes this perfectly, is done on the drawing-frame. 
Some drawing-frames are constructed with three pair of rollers, and 
some with four pair ; the latter having the advantage of doing more 
work in the same time. The rollers in a drawing-frame are gener- 
ally so adjusted, that the drawing is done between the first and third 
roller, the middle roller having but little influence on the result, so 
far as the stretching is concerned. Where there are three or four 
rollers, the drawing is performed twice ; each pair of rollers draws a 
certain amount. The distance between the rollers is so adjusted, 
that the longest fiber of the cotton does not reach from the centre 
of one roller to the centre of the other ; this prevents the rollers 
from tearing the fibers, because the first pair of rollers pulls the 
fibers, while the second holds them fast. If, on the other hand, the 
distance between the rollers is too great, the filaments of cotton 
separate in unequal thicknesses, and the result is unequal yarn. It is 
more preferable to have the rollers too close together, than to have 
them too far apart, provided they are always so far distant as not to 
injure the staple. The principal object to be attained in drawing 
the bands is, to reduce their thickness after they have been doubled. 
Doubling and drawing effects the two-fold purpose of stretching the 
fibers of cotton, and equalizing the bands. The more a band is 
doubled and eliminated, the more perfect should be the yarn spun 
from it ; but this process of drawing can, nevertheless, be carried 
too far. Excessive drawing, as well as excessive picking and card- 
ing, tends to weaken the fiber, and finally renders it brittle and 
rotten. Still, if the machinery is kept in such perfect order as not 
to injure the cotton, it may be considered impossible to eliminate 
the fibers to too great an extent. The sliver from the last drawing- 
head should be of a silky lustre, and its component fibers should lie 
perfectly parallel with the band and with each other. But little 
cotton is wasted in this operation ; the waste consists principally of 
those parts which have to be broken off in consequence of their 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, Q I 

running singly, or when the attendant, through negligence or inadver- 
tence, misses a can, and gets behind-hand with the rollers." — Baird. 

" The preparatory machines consist of a series of drawing frames 
of different sizes, in which the number of rollers varies ; for, each 
machine being called upon to reduce the slivers, the numbers of 
cylinders ought to go on increasing in proportion to the amount of 
thinning the slivers have to undergo. The drawing process has for 
its object to reduce the volume of a certain quantity of wool slivers, 
while it preserves their original weight, with the exception of a 
slight loss in flyings and wastings, resulting from the drawing ; for, 
during that process, either loose filaments become detached from 
the slivers or bits of wool are separated and get wound round the 
comb. When this latter case occurs the waste is carefully col- 
lected and a skilled workman draws it by hand so as to repass it 
the next time; but the waste which falls on the machine or the floor 
is generally so short and poor that it is almost impossible to subject 
it to that operation, and we must be satisfied to shake it up in a 
basket or wicker work cylinder, and employ it for carded products. 
Before operating with the preparatory machines, we must first con- 
sider what work we have to do, and dispose of our material accord- 
ing to the special kind of wool to be converted inte yarn. We 
begin by — 

First — Properly lubricating the movable parts of the machine. 

Second — Arranging the parchments. 

Third — Regulating the intervals. 

Fourth — Regulating the weights of the top rollers. 

Fifth — Regulating the draught. 

All the rollers of these machines are supplied with weights and 
levers, exerting a certain pressure on the top rollers. The arms of 
the levers are movable throughout their entire length, and their 
power may be modified by means of weights." 

Dresser. — This name is given to a warping machine on which 
sizing is applied to the warp, to machines for applying sizing, etc., 
to fabrics as well as yarns, to some kinds of finishing machinery, 
and to the men who attend them ; also to sizing, etc. 

Dressing. — The dressing in many instances is the composition 
or ingredients used, the manner or means of application, and often 
only the result or appearance of an operation. 

Drying. — When drying was done in the open air or in rooms, the 
temperature of which never exceeded ioo° Fahr., the process was 



92 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

not of so much moment as now. The machinery in use at the 
present time is nearly all devised to dry quickly ; to a certain 
extent this is accomplished by rapid circulation of air, but cold air 
will not carry the moisture as well as hot air ; hence, the latter is 
employed too freely in many cases. If the operators of machines 
could only comprehend the danger of overheating some materials, 
no doubt there would be less fault found with the machinery ; it is a 
noteworthy fact that even those who are supposed to know better, 
pay too little attention to the matter of regulating the heat. With 
silks and woolens particularly is it necessary to watch closely, not 
only the temperature, but the condition of the goods before drying. 
If woolens are too wet, when dried they are stiff, as if starched, if 
not clean they will come from the drying-machine in a state difficult 
to rectify, the colors dingy, perhaps cloudy, etc., etc. (See Tenter 
Bars.) 

Dyes. — A few of the most common dyes and dyewoods are men- 
tioned in this work, with the hope of awakening here and there a 
desire to investigate further a line of study that should occupy the 
designer, manager and dyer during many spare hours. It is only 
by understanding the nature of ingredients and compounds that 
they can be used intelligently. 



E. 

Edges. — The importance of perfect sides or edges, be the selvage 
wide or narrow, is seldom fully appreciated by operatives ; indeed, 
even overseers are frequently either ignorant or regardless of the 
consequences of crooked, short, long, rolling, thick, thin, imperfect 
or rough sides. Some of the causes are here enumerated : Crooked 
edges are almost invariably caused by uneven tension on the filling 
while weaving, either on account of bad or too long bobbins, 
crooked shuttle spindle, shuttle eye in wrong place, or anything 
else showing itself by a difference in tension on full and nearly 
empty bobbins. Uneven yarn will also make crooked edges, but 
this is easily traced if the goods are examined while wet or by look- 
ing through them toward a strong light. Uneven picks, from what- 
soever cause, will sometimes produce this trouble. Crooked edges 
are only the beginning of a worse evil — cockles. Short edges are 
usually caused by the warper, and may also be done in beaming. 
Long edges are a difficulty arising from high sides on the warp 
beam ; whip rolls or lathes which give in the middle ; worn breast 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 93 

beam; also by the warp reel when so frail as to sag between the 
sides and spiders, or by putting waste and bobbins in at the sides 
on the cloth beams. When all these matters are correct there may 
still be a difference in the length of the sides from different looms, 
sometimes on the same piece; this is often owing to uneven pick- 
ing, or on account of a peculiar lodgment of the shuttles. A very 
common trouble with looms having a single box on one side and a 
number on the other. Temples have much to do with the sides, 
but any trouble from them should be apparent to any careful 
observer. Rolling edges are caused by a difference in back and 
face, usually on such goods as are made with warp largely on one 
side, filling on the other ; whichever side shrinks most readily will 
roll inwards. With woolens, the fuller and gigger suffer most from 
this trouble, and upon the fuller devolves the duty of sparing others 
the annoyance which rolling edges prove to be in all subsequent 
operations. In sewing for the fulling mill, make short stitches ; if 
possible, sew that side out which naturally rolls in ; if impossible 
for the entire process, one-fourth of the time at least, either first 
or last, will help very much. 

Thick and Thin edges are made in the loom ; the tension of the 
filling and the temples must be looked to first. 

Imperfect and Rough edges are frequently the result of careless- 
ness and neglect either on the part of the weaver or loom fixer. 
When the shed is not good at the sides, the time of picking incor- 
rect, or one shuttle delivering loose filling, another tight, look out 
for imperfect and rough sides, they will certainly show on thread- 
bare goods when finished, if not before. 

Electricity. — Electricity has not as yet proved very successful 
in applications of it to the textile manufacturing processes. Some 
very ingenious inventions exist ; but, for some reason, they do not 
come forward and into general use. Among these are electricity 
applied to the Jacquard loom and punching machines, to cutting 
velvet plush, etc., etc. But electricity, as an annoyance or diffi- 
culty, is very common, particularly in factories, where wool is used. 
This is more especially the case in carding and spinning; weaving 
in a cold, dry room is also difficult on account of it. Of the many 
devices employed to prevent troubles from electricity in carding 
there is perhaps none which can be covered by one word better 
than " moisture." Moisture in the stock or in the atmosphere is all 
that is necessary. A little escape of steam in the vicinity of a card 
giving trouble has remedied the matter, but a better way is to apply 
it to the stock. 



94 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Electricity is almost sure to be troublesome when wool has been 
exposed to great heat in drying, if an insufficient quantity of oil is 
used, or if the colors either from excessive use of acid, alkali or heat 
in boiling, have attacked those properties of the staple which wool 
requires to convey its true nature to the fabric. There is also 
much electricity in factories altogether generated by friction. This 
is especially a serious trouble in the card ; and, no doubt, the pro- 
cess of carding does generate some electricity. Condensing rollers 
or drawing rollers, when set too close, bring about this evil in the 
very spot where it is the greatest nuisance. There are some ten 
pages on this subject in the book called " Queries and Replies," 
taken from the Industrial Record. Like everything else in this book 
the information is all direct from the workroom and is, therefore, 
very valuable, as it gives the varying success of different remedies. 
The electric light is without doubt a grand success in factories. 
Several hundred of them are already in use, and in one or two 
instances are used with the best results in shops running night and 
day. 

Emery. — The emery used for grinding cards is of various sizes 
and qualities. Nos. 3 and 4 are good sizes, and are preferable to 
finer kinds. It must be perfectly free from rotten or pounded 
stone and all ingredients not belonging to it. Emery may be tested 
by laying some of it on a flat piece of iron and attempting to bruise 
it with a flat-faced hammer ; if good and hard, it will resist the ham- 
mer; if soft or mixed with any improper matter, it will yield easily, 
and should be rejected. Coarse emery cuts and grinds quicker 
than fine, and also sinks in among the points of the teeth, cleans 
them, and cuts off any roughness, barbs or hooks that may be on 
them, and prevents them from rubbing on each other. If the 
emery is too coarse, it causes rings or grooves and ridges around 
the cylinders. Some carders wash the emery in warm water, when 
the chips and dust will rise to the surface, and may be washed off; 
after this the emery must be dried. It can sometimes be suffi- 
ciently cleared by sifting. 

To cover rollers, have them turned perfectly true, and a sufficient 
quantity of glue in readiness. The glue must be of a medium con- 
sistency ; if it is too thick, it will not adhere to or spread evenly on 
the rollers; it must be applied as quickly as possible, while the roll 
or cylinder is in motion, particular care being taken not to miss any 
part, especially the ends, as it is there they first begin to give way. 
As soon as the roller is covered with glue quickly strew on the 
emery, letting it fall from a height of two feet to make it stick, and 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 95 

lay it around the ends of the rollers by hand in order to make it 
adhere to those places. The rolls should be allowed to dry during 
the night ; the next day receive a second coat, applied as the first 
except that the glue may be somewhat thinner; they should again 
be left over night to dry. The next day all the glue and waste 
emery adhering to the ends should be scraped off, tried with a 
straight edge, the emery rubbed off the high places, and the whole 
made as level and true as possible ; next apply a wash composed of 
2\ ounces of glue and one pint of water ; this wash unites all the 
coats firmly together, and does not prevent the emery from cutting. 
The rolls should be revolved while this wash is hardening. 

Many forms of hand emeries are also employed. To cover them 
the same principles are involved as in covering rolls. The emery 
used for grinding shears, etc., etc., is necessarily very fine, and best 
applied when mixed with a heavy oil to the consistency of lard that 
will just run. 

Ends. — The ends of warp threads are called ends. The use of 
the word for threads in general is very common. 

English and French Methods for spinning worsted yarns are 
often alluded to. The difference is mainly in the manner of draw- 
ing from the sliver to the thread. Leroux has given full descrip- 
tions of both methods in his work on the manufacture of worsted 
yarns. The information he gives should be well understood by all 
who use or make worsted yarns. 

Estimates. — It is often necessary to estimate the probable cost 
of an intended fabric before proceeding to make it ; the calcula- 
tions necessary are the same as those treated under the head of Cal- 
culations and in Yarn Numbers, Reeds, &c. But to make these 
estimates reliable requires quite as much judgment as mathematical 
ability ; indeed, the latter is useless without the influence of the 
former. 

F. 

Fabric. — The word fabric is very frequently used instead of 
texture. Webster's definitions of the word are as follows : 

1. The structure of anything ; the manner in which the parts of 
anything are united by art and labor; workmanship; texture; 
make ; as cloth of a beautiful fabric. 

2. That which is fabricated ; (a) framework, structure, construc- 
tion, edifice, building, (b) Manufactured cloth. " Silks and other 
fine fabrics of the East." — Henry. 



96 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

An effort has been made to use the words fabric and texture inde- 
pendently of each other in this work, as a combined use of them is 
often confusing to the beginner. There is hardly an exception to 
the rule in this book — fabric being used for " manufactured cloth;" 
texture, for the structure or construction of the fabric. 

Fallers. — On some drawing frames the gills are propelled by a 
screw ; when they reach the end of the screw they fall into another 
which carries them back to the other end again. This falling gives 
these several bars carrying the gills this name. 

Fancy. — The cylinder on a card which raises the stock from the 
main cylinder, that the doffer may take it. The wire should be 
long, set and bent very regularly and accurately, since the fancy 
should not be ground much. If the fancy wire is soft it will soon 
lay down irregularly and always after prove a nuisance. 

Fancy Diagonals. — Some English writers seldom use the word 
diagonal, and would therefore head this paragraph with Fancy 
Twills. Whatever they call it, the English writers and weavers un- 
derstand the application and variation of twills thoroughly, as may 
be seen by the several quotations under the head of twills. Fancy 
diagonals are nothing more or less than very large patterns of the 
same family of textures as twills, but the long floats are frequently 
tied down in a manner to produce fancy effects. 

Feeders. — The employees, the machines or parts of machines 
which feed or enter stock of any kind, to the machinery. On 
wool washing-machines the feeder is a boy or man who lays the 
wool on an apron which is in constant motion toward the bath, into 
which it finally drops the wool. On wool, cotton and other pickers 
the stock is still fed by hand. On cotton cards the matter of feed- 
ing is very simple because the stock comes to the card in laps, but 
to woolen cards the stock is brought in a loose open state from the 
picker. Many woolen cards are still fed by hand, but very p>erfect 
machinery is now being largely introduced to do the work cheaper 
and better. 

Felt or Felt Cloth. — These goods are made by applying heat, 
moisture and friction to webs of various kinds of animal fibers. 
The stock is mixed and picked for the cards ; carded ; from the 
card it goes to the felting machinery in an open but web-like state ; 
from the felting machine some kinds are taken to the fulling mills, 
and some kinds of goods undergo various other processes to pro- 
duce the requisite density and characteristics. The colors and 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 97 

finish applied are also many in kind, according to the ultimate pur- 
pose of the goods. 

Fibers, or Fibres. — The fibers used in the manufacture of tex- 
tile fabrics are described as follows, by Gesner : " The material used 
in textile fabrics may be animal, mineral or vegetable. The most 
common are wool, silk, cotton, hemp, flax. Properly classified, 
they appear in the order below : 

A. — Vegetable. (1) Fibers from the Stems of Plants. 

(a) Chinese Grass or Nettle ( Urfica, Nivia,) is a perennial plant, 
the stem of which bears broad, oval leaves ; the upper side is 
smooth and of a beautiful green color, while the lower side is cov- 
ered by a white woolly down. The plant grows in East India, Siam. 
Cochin China, Japan, China, and on many of the islands of the 
Indian Archipelago. In its wild state it is called Rhea, and is 
usually found in almost impenetrable masses or thickets. The 
fiber of the cultivated plant has a length of 120 millimeters, and 
possesses a wonderful strength, (some tests having shown a strength 
two or three times as great as that of Russian hemp.) 

(b.) Ramm^e is a sort of nettle thriving best upon several islands 
of the Indian Archipelago, where it grows to a height of one to two 
meters. It is of a yellowish white color, about as fine as a fair 
quality of flax, lusterless and very stiff. 

(e.) Jute is a native of China and East India, but successfully 
cultivated in other parts. It yields a brownish, coarse, long fiber, 
used largely in the manufacture of twine, burlap, etc., etc. The 
fiber may be improved by the hackle and other manipulations until 
a fine lustre is attained, but is always very brittle. 

(d.) Nettle. Several plants of this species yield useful fibers. 

(2.) Fibers from the leaves of plants. 

(a.) The New Zealand Flax {Phormium Tenax). This plant, 
native of New Zealand, produces a leaf from ^ to iyV meters long 
and 1 to 3 ctm. wide, which contains great numbers of fibers 
from 5 to n millimeters long. This material resembles hemp, but is 
not so soft and flexible, although producing very durable fabrics. 

(b.) Manila or Manila Hemp {Abaca) is more extensively used for 
ropes than fabrics, but does occasionally enter into various kinds of 
the latter. 

(e.) Ananas Hemp (Bromelia Ananas) comes from the West 
Indies and South America. The fibers of the roots are long and 

7 



98 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

tough, furnishing a material with which the Indians produce a sort 
of coarse linen. 

(3.) Fibers from Shells or Husks : 

(a.) The Cocoa fibers possess remarkable elasticity and strength, 
and are used for carpets, mats and various kinds of plaited goods. 

(b.) Of the many other vegetable substances that may be woven. 
Wood, straw, etc., etc., are probably the most common. 

B. — Animal Fibers, (a.) Cashmere or Kashmere Wool is the 
fine wool-like hair of the goat (Capra Hircus, Varietas Lanigrd). 
This goat thrives best upon the Himmaleh mountains at an alti- 
tude of 5,000 meters. The higher the altitude, the finer, softer and 
thicker the coat of hair is found to be. Nearly all of this staple is 
manufactured into shawls in Cashmere. What little is sent to other 
markets may be said to be of three kinds or colors — white, grey 
and brown. The word cashmere is also used to designate certain 
fabrics made of wool or silk warp and goat hair, or fine merino wool 
filling. Cashmere Satin (woolen satin) is a smooth, lustrous fabric, 
the warp and filling of which are of combed wool or worsted. 
Cashmere Muslin, (wool muslin, mousseline-laine) ; the warp and 
filling of this fabric have little twist and are woven very loose. In 
Mousselin-deim-laine the warp is cotton, the filling combed wool or 
worsted. Cashmeret is a fabric more like cloth in its manufacture 
and appearance. The warp of the best kinds is of a peculiar floss 
silk, woolen filling. These fabrics are fulled, gigged and shorn. 

(b.) Vigogue wool is a sort of curly hair from a peculiar sheep to 
be found in the mountains of Peru, Chili and Mexico. 

(<r.) Alpaca wool is the downy hair of a goat in Peru, is very fine 
and comes to market brown, black and white. (Alpagnapaco.) 

(d.) Mohair is procured from the Angora goat of Asia Minor. 
This staple is largely spun from carded stock, and used as filling for 
several fabrics, which by fulling, etc., readily yield a nap resembling 
plush. 

(<?.) Camel hair is the downy hair of certain camels ; is used for 
combed and carded yarns. 

(/.) Cow hair is spun into coarse yarns, woven into carpets and 
other coarse fabrics. (Seldom spun alone, but is carried by a more 
suitable fiber like wool, etc. — Ed.) 

(g.) Horse hair, dog hair and even human hair finds its way into 
various textures. 

C. — Mineral Fibers, (a.) Metallic wire is woven for sieves, and 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 99 

sometimes is introduced into fabrics to represent gold and silver 
threads. 

{b.) Gold and silver threads are frequently woven in as orna- 
ments or fancy effects. 

{c.) Glass threads are now produced and used but for little else 
than millinery goods. 

Figured Weaving. — Is practised as a handicraft process, or the 
weaver is assisted by the aid of machines. The process of orna- 
mental weavings as used at the present time in India, is perhaps the 
same as it has been practised there from the most remote times. It 
consists in interlacing differently colored threads of various sub- 
stances and thickness ; and this is done by inserting them in the 
warp as in plain weaving. By this means the effect is produced by 
the different colors and materials, rather than by the ornamental 
decussations of the threads, in which the skill of the weaver is 
shown. When assisted by mechanical contrivances the art at once 
assumes a new feature, for by this means, with only one or two 
colors or varieties of thread, endless effects can be produced on the 
surface of the cloth. (Barlow.) 

Filling or Weft. — Filling is a word which in textile terms is 
used for the yarn which fills the warp. This passive and active dis- 
tinction- between the warp and the yarn which is combined with it 
to make a fabric probably arises from the fact that the warp is 
opened by the harness motion, the filling being passed through and 
left in these successive openings. The filling is quite as important, 
often more so than the warp ; yet because it is not subjected to so 
much wear and strain in weaving, it is often made of stock too poor 
to produce the desired effect, or to endure the subsequent processes, 
all of which are more trying to the filling than the warp. This is 
only another evidence that it will not do to slight anything in pre- 
paring the work for a fabric. Several other allusions are made to 
the important part of filling under different headings. 

Fines. — Fines are instituted to aid overseers to enforce rules 
without discharging, but it is demoralizing to fine so much or so 
injudiciously as to impress the operatives with a wrong idea of the 
motive. Frequent and heavy fines are better avoided then imposed, 
the only true way to avoid them is to discharge the culprit. 

Flavine. — This is a coloring matter that has superseded 
quercitron bark and fustic in dyeing oranges, scarlets and yellows 



IOO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

The quantity of coloring matter is greater than that of quercitron 
or fustic, one pound of flavine being equal to ten pounds of bark or 
thirty pounds of fustic. The best mordant for flavine is alum, 
tartar and nitro-muriate of tin. A solution of flavine will produce 
the following reactions with the different metallic salts : 

Potash Sulphate of Alumina — a very rich yellow. 

Nitro-muriate of Tin — a yellow orange. 

Muriate of Tin — a sulphur-colored yellow. 

Proto-sulphate of Iron — a deep greenish black. 

Acids lighten the color of the solution, and alkalies deepen it, 
causing it to assume more of a red shade. 

Flocks. — Woolen stock ground very fine. Those caused by the 
gigg and shear are distinct from those cut or ground purposely. 
Flocks are used principally to increase the weight and firmness of 
woolen goods ; when so used they are applied in the fulling mill, 
that the short particles of stock may penetrate into the fabric and 
be in a measure fastened there by the shrinkage of the goods- 
Flocks made of old rags have but little of the requisite properties 
left, and are not cheap at any price. The rags are often colored to 
make the flocks appear like new stock, but the microscope will aid 
any one, after a little practice, to discover this deception. Caustic 
Potash may be used to discover vegetable substances, which are a 
dead loss in flocks. The method is to boil a small quantity of 
flocks previously weighed in a liquor made of one gill of water and a 
piece of the caustic potash about the size of a common bean, this 
will dissolve the animal fibers and leave the vegetable, which should 
be washed out (care being taken to lose none), dried and weighed. 
Use a glass bowl, sand bath, and spirit lamp. A simple test of the 
cleanliness of flocks is to spread a small quantity on a sheet of paper 
or glass, then pass over it or stir with a steel point which has been 
charged with electricity by brisk rubbing with a clean, very dry 
woolen cloth. Clean fibers will attach themselves to the point. By 
re-charging several times the sample of flocks may be robbed of all 
the perfectly clean fibers. Those loaded with grease or chemically 
retained moisture will remain. Flocks are sometimes used to fill 
card clothing on the cards instead of depending upon the leather to 
sustain the wires in position : a practice now seldom resorted to. 

Flyers. — On spinning frames and twisting machines, the thread 
guide placed upon the spindle over the bobbin. There are usually 
two or three eyes or places for the thread to pass through on its 
way from the rolls to the bobbin or spool. There is no doubt that 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. lOI 

the flyer twisters make the most even twist ; but as they are slow 
machines, other devices are more common. 

Friction on Warp Beams. — The warp beam should be supplied 
with means to allow the warp to be delivered at either a given rate 
of speed or with a constant and even tension upon it. All that 
can be expected, is to be able to maintain an equal tension, also 
regulating the friction of the beam that no more strain shall be 
thrown upon the threads when the beam is nearly empty than when 
it is full. Upon the tension of the warp while weaving, many 
fabrics depend for their peculiarities. A fabric that is to be at all 
elastic should be woven with the warp as loose as possible, at the 
same time getting in the right number of picks and making a clear 
shed. A part of the tension of the warp may be regulated by the 
take-up motion. The two should be worked in relative unison, 
with due consideration of the effect desired in the fabric, the weight, 
and the amount of strain the warp yarn will endure. 

Fulling. — Fulling is a process applied to certain fabrics com- 
posed in part or entirely of animal fibers. It shrinks, thickens and 
makes the goods more compact. The fibers must be of a peculiar 
nature or construction to possess the necessary properties which 
make this result both possible and permanent. This property is 
found in the fine merino wools in the highest degree. Some hairs 
have nearly as little of it as vegetable fibers. The nearer a wool 
approaches hair in nature and construction, the less of the property 
will it possess. The artificial means employed to produce the result 
above mentioned are heat, moisture and friction. With these alone 
it is possible to full some woolen fabrics, but nearly all show better 
results when some soap is used with the moisture ; short staple will 
not endure the friction produced by the machinery necessary, with- 
out soap. The machinery which produces the friction and retains 
the heat generated by it, and the soap, by means of which the goods 
are at once moistened and lubricated, are the two principal factors 
employed. 

The machines are considered under the head of Fulling Mills ; 
the kind of soap in its proper place. The application and prepara- 
tions of the process are alone to be considered here. The appli- 
cation of the soap is an important feature — too much makes the 
goods clammy ; too little, spongy. The soap being too strong will, 
with the heat of the mill, not only affect colors but the nature of 
the fibers. It must be gradually and evenly put upon the goods ; 
this is best done by any means which will allow a small stream of 



102 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

it to be directed upon the goods while in motion. The quantity of 
soap used must be governed by the time the goods are in the mill, 
the stock in the goods, and the density of fabric required. When 
goods composed of short stock (like shoddy) have too little soap in 
the mill, they will surely chafe, a loss and damage that cannot after- 
wards be fully repaired. If the soap is not rich enough for the 
amount of friction and time required, chafing is a sure consequence. 
If there is much free grease, or dirt, or dye in the goods, the soap 
must overcome it or be overcome and prove little better than water. 

In Rotary Mills of every kind there must be a contrivance to jam 
the goods together lengthwise, else the goods will not shrink in 
length, and goods not shrunk in length in the fulling mill, will do so 
in sponging and in the garment. Almost every one has had experi- 
ence with goods of this kind, and the consequent annoyances. The 
contrivance is most commonly applied in the form of a trap box, 
called " clappers," " crimping-box," " jam," and many other terms 
by different fullers. The goods running continuously in wrinkles, 
unless frequently taken out, opened and stretched, will after a while 
full more in some parts than others, notably those least exposed to 
the surrounding atmosphere ; this is the cause of mill streaks, 
wrinkles, clouds and rows. There are also other causes for each 
of these, but when similar effects are caused by uneven appliance of 
soap, running of colors, excessive grease, dirt, or flocks, or by uneven 
yarn they are really different, and should not be designated by the 
above appellations. The time required by fulling can be regulated 
in part by the frequency of this cooling, opening or stretching, by 
the amount of cold air admitted into the mill and by the pressure 
applied. 

Opinions vary much in regard to the time required to produce the 
results, largely due to the fact that different circumstances have been 
differently observed and accounted for. For instance, two factories 
may produce the same fabric from the same stock and size of yarn, 
but one produces the full weight from the loom, in the other, goods 
from the loom are not up in weight and must be shrunk in length 
until the weight per yard is right or filled with flocks. It is a great 
help to the product to weave the goods a little light and gain the 
weight in the fulling mill, it is true that in reality the loom has to 
throw about the same number of picks, but the time saved is in the 
work which goes much better in the loom. To fill cheaper grades of 
goods with flocks is a common practice, and a little of it on some 
is a real benefit. The goods to be flocked should have the selvages 
closely sewed together, with the side to be flocked outside ; if not 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. IO3 

washed before fulling run dry a few minutes before adding the 
flocks, a few minutes after, and then wet out with the soap. This 
makes the goods a little more pliable, gets the flocks more evenly on 
all parts of the piece before the closing up of the fabric begins. If 
many flocks are to be put into the goods, fresh flocks should 
occasionally be added during the process. The slack method of 
putting in a few baskets full at once and for all has much in it 
to condemn, principally that the more goods have been fulled the 
harder they take the flocks ; from a lot of flocks put into the mill the 
goods will take the best first ; therefore, after the flocks begin to go 
in slowly there is only poor flocks left to go in. The practice of 
mixing good and bad flocks is erroneous. The better way is, to put 
the desired proportion of the poorer kind into the mill first, and at 
the right time add good flocks. 

The best method to govern the gain of weight per yard by shrink- 
ing is given us by a fuller who has had good opportunities to test the 
rule. Ascertain the weight total of a piece in the grease, after wash- 
ing, gigging and shearing. Note the difference or loss in each and 
all these processes. Multiply the number representing the yards in 
length of the entire piece by the number showing the actual weight 
per yard in ounces after shearing ; divide the product by the weight 
per yard desired ; the quotient is the number of yards in the piece 
after it has been sufficiently shortened by shrinkage. The differ- 
ence between this and the length, before shrinkage, shows the length 
to lose. Whatever proportion of the piece this may be, the same 
proportion per yard or any number of yards must be taken up. 
Now by putting two pieces of tape or string in the selvage of the 
piece any known distance apart it is only necessary to measure this 
space to ascertain if the proper proportion is taken up. For instance, 
a piece 36 yards long weighs 18 ounces per yard after washing and 
shearing; if kept out in length it would weigh say only 16 ounces, 
but should weigh 18 ounces. It is, therefore, 2 ounces light. To 
gain 2 ounces per yard, how much must the piece be shrunk ? 
Thirty-six yards clean, weighing 16 ounces per yard, the total weight 
is 36 x 16=576 ounces, it will take as many yards of 18 ounces each 
to make 576 ounces as 18 is contained in that number=32. The 
piece must be shrunk from 36 yards to 32 — a shrinkage of 4 yards, 
or ^g- of the whole. Now, if the whole piece must shrink /g- of its 
own length, each yard or any number of yards, in any part of the 
piece, must shrink in the same proportion. To make the calcula- 
tions easy, measure off as many inches between tapes as there are 
yards in the piece, then you have only to shrink this marked space 



104 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

the same number of inches as the number of yards the piece is to be 
shrunk, viz., in the above example you would measure $6 inches, 
and this would have to be reduced to 32 inches. It is a good plan 
to mark two or more places in different parts of the piece. By care- 
fully noting on the first piece how long the felting-box or clapper 
was applied a safe guide for others of the same kind is obtained. 
Goods should always be washed as soon after fulling as possible. 
If they must lay over night let them be well spread out. 

Fulling Mills. — The machines for fulling cloth are termed full- 
ing mills. There are many varieties which are very similar ; they 
may be divided into three or more kinds — the fulling stocks or 
hammers, the broad rotary mills, and the narrow rotary or German 
mills. The fulling stocks are now almost superseded, not because 
they are not good, but that the power and time required is greater 
than in rotary mills of the best patterns. There are some goods, 
however, that have not yet been fulled just right in anything but 
stocks. The broad rotaries are'so called because the rolls between 
which the goods pass continuously are long, making the machine so 
wide as to admit two, three or even four pieces side by side ; while 
this is an advantage in one way, it is quite the contrary in another, 
for too much space forbids raising the temperature of the atmos- 
phere within it to the proper degree without the introduction of 
heating apparatus, steam, etc. The rolls in the narrow mills are 
only wide enough for a single piece. Some have several of these 
rolls on one shaft side by side. The narrow mills, being a more 
recent invention, have in many parts improvements on the older 
kinds. The many builders of these are all making the best. It is 
safest, therefore, to inquire of those who have given them a trial 
before investing in them, if the machine must do some particular 
work just right. 

Fustic. — The tree from which this dyestuff is prepared is known 
by botanists by the name of Morns Tincioria, it grows spontane- 
ously in Brazil and West India Islands, (that from Cuba is the best.) 
The wood is the color of sulphur, with orange colored veins ; it 
contains two coloring principles, the one resinous and insoluble in 
water, the other very soluble in water, giving a deep yellow color 
with a light orange cast to the solution. Fustic requires more boil- 
ing than logwood to extract its coloring matter, but not so much as 
camwood, barwood or sanders. 



SJPITZLI'S MANUAL. 105 

G. 

Ganters. — The beams to support jacquard machines. 

Gauze {See Cross Weaving?) — There are many kinds of gauze, 
but all real gauze has at least some of the warp threads crossed. 
When gauze is made right, it will endure considerable washing with- 
out displacement of the threads be it ever so open. Imitations, 
however, have the threads held in place by a heavy sizing. When 
washed they are, of course, a shapeless mass. 

Gaws. — A Scotch term for thin places in cloth. In some sections 
the term "thin rows," in others "cheats " are used. 

Giggs. — Giggs are used for raising or producing the nap in the 
process of finishing woolens. Upon the single gigg the cloth passes 
from a roller at the bottom to one at the top and back again a 
sufficient number of times to produce the desired result, the fabric 
being held to or from the teazle cylinder by means of adjustable 
rolls, about eighteen inches from the cloth rolls and nearly three 
feet from each other in a perpendicular line. Single giggs are also 
built in a way to touch the cylinder in more than one place. The 
double gigg is so called because it has two cylinders ; the goods on 
these may be made to pass back and forth or continuously in one 
way ; in the latter case the gigg is termed " rotary," whether it has 
one or more cylinders. The principle of adjusting rolls is similarly 
applied as on single machines. The Cross Giggs are a complicated 
combination of the other giggs, and the addition of separate motion 
for drawing nap from the warp, or working sideways also, by means 
of vibrating slats or bands set with teazles, which run from side to 
side in alternate order, the first in one direction, the next in the 
opposite. These machines are so complicated that quite a number 
stand idle to-day, because no one can be secured to run them suc- 
cessfully ; but the principle of drawing nap from the sides is very 
good, and for some work absolutely necessary. In setting up the 
machines care must be taken to get all the rolls, cylinders, etc., 
parallel to each other, otherwise uneven work will be the result, 
particularly if the goods cannot be reversed several times. For 
single giggs the manner of putting on the leaders is of no small 
importance ; if very long leaders are used this point is not so 
serious, but with short leaders the practice of fastening with a few 
hooks only is bad, as it makes the tension on the width of the goods 
uneven at the ends. As leaders are constantly wearing at the ends, 
frequent trimming is a natural consequence, and carelessness in 



I06 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

attaching them will complete the rejection of a leader sooner than 
when a little pains has been taken. The slats must not be put into 
the cylinder in such a way as to bring the cross bars of the several 
slats directly in a line, as this will sometimes cause streaks in the 
nap. If the cylinder vibrates far enough, this trouble is in a meas- 
ure overcome, but prevention is better than cure. Teazles are 
almost universally used on giggs to supply the points with which to 
penetrate the nap or threads of the fabric. They should be as 
small as the finish called for will permit ; of whatsoever size, they 
must be uniform and set even to do good work, and firm to insure 
durability. When in use the slats should be dried frequently. To 
clean slats a brush should be provided ; hand cards destroy the 
teazles. 

Gigging. — The process of producing a nap on cloths. To know 
the amount or kind of gigging necessary to produce any desired 
finish requires an extensive experience on the part of a close 
observer. Rules are of little use ; sound judgment is everything. 
The points to be considered and borne in mind throughout the 
operation, may be given in part ; first, the treatment necessary to 
produce the desired finish ; second, will the goods produce the 
desired finish? third, will the strength of the goods permit it? finally, 
the stock, twist and texture of the fabric in hand. By frequently 
reversing the piece in order to gigg both ways a full and soft nap is 
obtained. To do the work nearly all one way makes the nap lay 
down and cover the threads better, but it will be correspondingly 
stiff and harsh, when the hand is drawn against the nap, neither will 
the nap be so full as when the first mentioned method it adopted. 
The goods should be cropped both ways before the gigging is com- 
pleted; this results in a more even nap and aids the gigg in its work 
by making the penetration of the teazles easier. Cloth which has a 
backing woven on, especially when of different stock or color from 
the face fabric, should always be gigged on the back first ; this 
clears the face of many penetrating fibers which would otherwise 
show. Poor slats, that is, such with badly worn or missing teazles, 
should not be put into a wet gigg. The presumption that anything 
is good enough for the wet gigg is erroneous. To get a nap clean 
and smooth to the very bottom, use slats which are well broken in 
but not worn out. Poor slats will make a curly nap or mottled sur- 
face. When the fabric contains considerable silk it is a good plan 
to use brush slats ; after the piece has been wet out give it a good 
brushing on the wet gigg, to give the silk a lustre not otherwise 



SMTZLl'S MANUAL. I07 

obtainable. Steaming goods on the gigg is sometimes practiced on 
beavers and like fabrics, but the irregular tension so easily produced 
by the cheap labor usually employed to run giggs will sometimes 
cause water marks and other variations in the character of the finish 
on the same piece, and different pieces will not come out alike. 

Gill Box. — After the second carding the wool is carried to the 
machine known as the gill box. This apparatus brings the fibers of 
the wool into a condition of parallelism. The wool is first caught 
by three cylinders, which deliver it to the moving combs. The 
gills, armed with two rows of pins, approach the drawing roller, and 
one by one sink into a groove which carries them to a second pair 
of screws ; the sliver, after leaving the drawing roller, is rolled off 
into a spool. Under some machines a steam pipe distributes steam 
to the compartments intended to receive the wool in its passage. 
The wool, passing over the heated parts, becomes smooth, and is 
drawn out without catching. 

Gin. — The cotton gin is a machine for clearing the staple of rub- 
bish. The roller gin has long been in use, but it is so slow, and, 
being suitable for a few kinds of cotton only, it is being superseded 
by later inventions, of which the saw gin is one. This machine does 
little injury to the staple. 

Gingham. — Gingham is a plaided or checked cotton fabric suit- 
able for dress goods, etc. 

Glauber Salts. — Sulphate of Soda. 

Green Vitriol. — Copperas. 

Grinding. — The matter of grinding cards or shears is very im- 
portant ; as easily overdone as neglected, and although easy enough 
to describe, by no means a process to be learned entirely from 
books. 

"In setting the emery rollers to grind the cards, do not set them to 
bear too hard or too heavy on the wire, for this will heat, soften or 
break the wire, if it is not very good and tough. The emery rollers 
should be seven or eight inches in diameter, and always two or three 
inches wider than the card cylinders, so that they may traverse an 
inch each way on the cylinder, and not leave any of the wire bare. 
Traversing is effected by means of a waving pulley, about 5 -J inches 
in diameter; the outer rim or edge of the pulley runs in a slot at- 
tached to the stand of the roller; or the traversing is produced by a 
crooked strap, which, fitting between the rims of the pulley, will 



IO& SHTZLt'S MANUAL. 

move the emery roller longitudinally and around at the same time. 
The traverse motion may be also produced by a waving pulley at 
the emery roller. The emery roller must be kept on the cylinders 
until they are ground perfectly true, and until the greater portion 
of the teeth are ground to a point. The perfect rotundity of the 
cylinder may be ascertained by the sound it produces on the emery 
roller as it runs; the sight may also be of service in this respect, 
either when the cylinder is in motion or by stopping it and giving 
it a careful examination. When the surface of a card cylinder has 
been sufficiently ground it will have a blackish appearance, while 
those parts that are not ground enough will appear more or less 
clear and bright. As long as a considerable quantity of white teeth 
appear the grinding must be continued. One day will be sufficient 
to grind up a new card, if the emery is in tolerably good order." 
— Baird. 

" All the rollers covered with card clothing are ground, with the 
exception of the fancy alone. The object of this operation is to 
equalize the teeth, render the surface of the cards perfectly cylindri- 
cal, and to give the necessary sharpness to the teeth. The sharp- 
ness of card clothing is more apparent in the finer qualities than in 
the coarser. 

" Grinding is certainly more readily performed when the roller is 
perfectly cylindrical, the teeth and leathers of the clothing both 
uniform throughout, and the emery-covered cylinder well rounded. 
In order to grind either a main cylinder or a doffer, two movable 
pedestals are placed on the parallel sides of the frame for support- 
ing the grinding roller, on the axle of which is fixed a pulley one- 
fourth or one-fifth the diameter of the roller itself, so that the grind- 
ing roller has four or five times as great a circumference velocity as 
the pulley. 

" To set the grinding roller in motion, a pulley is thrown into 
gear on the side opposite that of the one intended to drive the roller 
to be ground. This pulley is driven by that of the drum. 

"If, for, instance, a doffer is to be ground, it must be made to re- 
volve slowly, whereas the grinding roller turns very rapidly. This 
latter roller is then brought towards the doffer very gradually, as 
there is a greater loss than gain in too much haste. If we approxi- 
mate the rollers too closely, the teeth to be sharpened will only 
break off, so that we had better never hurry the work. The two 
rollers work in the same direction. 

" Among the instruments invented to improve the operations of 
grinding and straightening the teeth, we must mention that of Mr. 



SPITZLFS MANUAL. IO9 

Moriceau, of Mouy. It consists of a grindstone, either of sandstone 
or emery, driven with a traverse motion. The cards treated by this 
apparatus are in no way injured, but on the contrary their teeth are 
better sharpened. ' 

" For grinding the cards of workers and strippers we generally use 
a turned cast iron cylinder, covered with one or more coats of 
emery and mounted on a cast iron frame, on which may also be 
fixed three or four of the small rollers to be ground. These work- 
ers and strippers are arranged around the grinding cylinder and the 
apparatus set in motion, so that several small rollers can be ground 
at once. 

"After being ground in this way, the rollers are subjected to the 
action of a cloth covered with fine emery powder (canvas emery). 

" We can easily make canvass emeries for ourselves by adopting 
the following plan : 

" Dissolve (by the heat of a water bath) in one litre of water — 
Isinglass, - 200 grammes, 

Good glue, - - - - 100 " 

Spread the canvas to be covered on a table, and by means of a 
brush paint it over with this glue ; then sift fine emery powder over 
the glue thus spread out, equalize the surface with a smooth roller, 
and after drying, the material will be ready for use. 

" This cloth is usually mounted on two quarter circles, bound to- 
gether by two parallel cross pieces. 

" The process of grinding is terminated by exposing the card 
clothing of the roller, while revolving, to the action of the canvas 
emery thus mounted, and then giving a last finish by the application 
of a leather, mounted in the same manner as the canvas emery and 
smeared with oil and grindstone dust." — Leroux. 

Shear grinding is quite another matter ; this is done with very fine 
emery for a time, but after a while the revolver, ledger-blade and rests 
should be sent to the makers to be trued, or else, what is better, a 
machine for the purpose should be at hand and used once or twice 
every year. In the book, " Queries and Replies," already several 
times referred to, may be found directions for grinding shears, said 
to be those sent out by a firm of shear-builders. More minute in- 
structions, written expressly for this work by an expert shearer, are 
here given, partly because on some points he takes issue with the 
above, on others he is more explicit. In preparation for grinding, 
back off the ledger so far that a light wrapping paper may be drawn 
between the blade and revolver. Next ascertain the relative posi- 
tion of the revolver and blade ; this is most accurately done by use 



IIO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

of a try square and straight edge. Place the angle of the square 
upon the centre mark made on the boxes of the revolver by the 
makers. Lay the straight-edge on the ledger-blade letting the end 
project to meet the square. The revolver will doubtless be found 
too high ; if so, drop it to its proper place, when there, about T 'g inch 
of the square should be visible under the straight-edge. Some 
advise setting up the blade instead, but this will not be of much use 
if the blade is properly set. (It should not be under the revolver 
too much.) By dropping the revolver further, a deeper concave may 
be made. This is not desirable, because it will not retain sharp 
edges so long. Let up the blade to within the thickness of tissue 
paper. Next, cover the brushes and rest to protect them from 
oil and emery. Put the belt on to reverse the revolver. Having 
mixed flour of emery and oil to the consistency of cream, apply it 
with a large paint brush. The advantages of a brush over those of a 
strap are obvious to any thinking mind. While applying the emery 
set the blade closer from time to time but only a very little at a time. 
When the grinding is completed polish the ground surface by thin- 
ning the emery with oil, then follow with clear oil, or a little oil and 
plumbago. The revolver should next be taken out, everything well 
cleaned and the ledger blade honed to turn the edge toward the 
bevel. Never hone enough to make a bevel on the face. Now, let 
the blade down to the rest to make sure that they correspond in 
setting ; replace the revolver and give it a few turns to cut off the 
rough edge which was turned over by honing. If the grinding has 
been successfully accomplished it should now cut tissue paper 
smooth in all parts without further setting. If this test proves all 
correct, it is not well to alter the relative position of the blade and 
revolver until it is necessary to grind again. To bring the edges 
closer together raise the revolver a trifle. 

Grist. — A Scotch term for the size of a sliver, slubbing, roving 
or yarn. 

Ground or Ground-work. — The plain texture surrounding the 
fancy effects in fancy or figured cloth. 

Guipure. — This word is sometimes used to designate some kinds 
of lace, again for pointed lace or lacework in general. 

H. 

Hackel or Hatchel. — A comb-like device for straightening 
and separating flax, &c. A sort of hackel was employed when wool 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



I I I 



was combed by hand. In some parts gills are still called hackels, 
and fallers hackel bars. 

Hair Cloth. — The original hair cloth was no doubt that at one 
time made because woolen goods were not allowed in the Temple. 
The goods now known in the trade as hair cloth are of such mate- 
rial as to fit them for no other use than furniture coverings and the 
like. 

Hair Lines. — Hair line fabrics are those in which the color and 
texture are so combined as to produce a fine line. The following 
Hair Line Drafts will serve the beginner well in making experi- 
ments. It is an easy matter to vary the yarn colors and arrange- 
ment without violating the principle of hair line weaving. 

HAIR LINE DRAFTS. 



Warp Draft. 

i Mix 
i Black 

2 threads per pattern. 

Filling Draft. 

i Mix 

i Dark Blue 

2 threads per pattern. 



Drawing-In Draft. 



Chain Draft. 

2D* 
I 2 



Warp Draft. 

2 Mix 
2 Black 



Dra wing-In Draft. 



4 threads per pattern. 

Filling Draft. , 

2 Mix 
2 Black 



:?□□** 
2**DD 

1 2 3 4 



-Chain Draft.- 

or 4%nD* 
3DD** 
2n**D 

!**□□ 

1234 



or 4D-X-D* 
3DD** 
2*D*D 

!**□□ 

1234 



Warp Draft. 

1 Mix 
1 Black 
1 Mix 
1 Black 
1 Mix 
1 Black 
1 Black 
1 Mix 
1 Black 
1 Mix 
i Black 
1 Mix 



Drawing-In Draft. 



12 threads per pattern. 



I [ 2 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Filling Draft. , Chain Draft. N 

i Mix 2Q% or i Mix i2D% 

i Black i>kD i Black n^D 

12 i Mix ioD>fc 

2 threads per pattern. i Black 9^D 

i Mix 8D* 

2 al * ck ) 6D* 

i Mix 5%n 

r Black 4D>k 

i Mix 3^D 

i Black 2D* 

i Mix i%D 

12 

12 threads per pattern. 

The principle is simply this : To make a hair line lengthwise of 
the goods, use the same color of filling as that of the warp threads 
which are down in every shed. To make cross lines, use filling of 
the same color as that of the warp threads up in each shed. At 
least two colors in the warp, and two corresponding ones in the fill- 
ing, also a plain texture to suit, are needed to make a real hair line. 
The hair lines made with a line in the warp only, the filling being 
all one color, are not the genuine, but imitations. 

By a texture to suit, is meant one which will confine the floats of 
the warp and filling threads over the respective colors. 

The principle of hair lines may be extended to large patterns, but 
as soon as the fine line is augmented into what may fairly be termed 
a stripe, the name hair line is no longer applicable. 

Hair Looms. — The looms for weaving hair cloth differ from 
others mainly in the contrivances necessary to fill the goods. Bar- 
low describes some of them very fully. 

Harness, Leaf, Wing or Shaft. — The harness, when com- 
plete, implies the presence of heddles : without them it is the har- 
ness frame or harness rods, &c. The harnesses are attached to the 
harness or head motion "of a loom by means of harness straps, wires 
or cords, and the jacks. 

Heddles. — Healds, Harness Eyes, Gears or Leash Eyes, were for- 
merly made of twine, thread, hair, catgut, &c, &c. The wire hed- 
dle has superseded all these, except on a few kinds of goods, where 
the stain of metal and a few other similar peculiarities are objection- 
able. The glass mail makes a good thread eye, because it is not so 
quickly worn by the thread as metal. The twine harnesses are still 
in use; the twine is heavily coated to make it smooth and durable. 
Wire heddles were quite universally condemned at first by manufac- 
turers of fine goods, because the eye was too large and not always 
to be depended upon ; but the machinery for producing them has 
been improved and perfected until any shape and size of eye de- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I T 3 

sired can be produced, and so firmly made that no thread can slip 
into the twist. The convenience of wire heddles needs no com- 
ment. In factories making one kind of goods the year around, this 
is not appreciated, but in others where every warp varies in number 
of threads, the saving is a large item. 



I. 

Imitation Furs and Skins. — These goods at times are very 
popular for cloakings. Of this kind also are many robes and mats. 
Ln relation to this subject Ashenhurst says : 

" The length of pile is a very important matter, especially if the 
object is to imitate the skins of animals. The length of pile must 
be in accordance with the nature of the skin to be imitated. Take, 
for instance, the sealskin, which is very largely imitated, sometimes 
by the warp pile principle, and sometimes by the weft pile principle. 
The pile or nap of a sealskin is of the medium length, from a quar- 
ter inch to about half an inch, somewhat longer than an ordinary 
velvet, while an imitation dog skin of the long curly or wavy kind 
has a very long pile or nap, ranging up to an inch in length. In 
both these kinds of skins there are important features to be ob- 
served, quite apart from the weaving. Seal skins are very often 
made with a sort of tan-colored ground, and the tips of the pile are 
colored a very dark brown, which gradually gradates down towards 
the ground, thus giving it an exceedingly rich appearance. This 
tipping, as it is termed, is done after the pile is woven and cut, and 
is really a part of the finishing process. In the imitation dogskin 
the curl or waviness is produced by a preparation of the pile warp 
before weaving. The yarn is crimped, the length of crimp being 
regulated by the amount of waviness it is desired to give. The 
crimping is set in the yarn by a steaming process, the yarn is then 
made into a warp, and woven over wires and cut. The moment it 
is cut it falls into the crimps again, and thus produces that wavy 
shagginess. No matter what the effect on the face may be, if the 
pile is a warp pile the principle of making is the same. If the pile 
is of a material which is very likely to pull out easily it is more 
firmly bound into cloth by interweaving, and vice versa, but all 
other effects, such as curliness, waviness, coloring, etc., are produced 
in the preparation of the yarn before weaving, or in the finishing. 
Numbers of various effects in imitation skins might be given, all 
produced by different processes, but the object of this work is to 



114 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

deal with weaving only, and to lay down the principles so that they 
may be applied to all classes of trade, and not to detail the manner 
in which any particular cloth is made, otherwise there might be no 
limit to the work, and a vast amount of information might be con- 
tained in it which would be of no value except to those engaged in 
that special branch of trade. Weft piles are produced by the 
material of which the pile or nap consists being thrown in as weft 
instead of warp. The appearance of a weft pile is usually totally 
different to that of a warp pile, inasmuch as the warp pile being 
woven over a wire and cut down, the pile is made all of a length, 
and unless in the case of a very long pile, or when the yarn has 
previously undergone a preparation for the purpose of producing 
some special effect, all warp piles present a smooth even surface, 
the tips of the pile only being presented to view. But in the weft 
piles this evenness cannot be well maintained, partly in consequence 
of the manner in which the pile must be bound into the ground 
cloth, and partly in consequence of the method of cutting making 
it almost a matter of impossibility for both sides of the loop to be 
cut of an equal length. There are one or two exceptions to this 
which will be mentioned, but they are only in special makes, and 
have each peculiar characteristics." 

India Shawls. — The materials of which the shawls are made is 
wool called touz, procured from a goat of a particular species, fre- 
quenting the valley of Cashmere and the neighboring mountains of 
Thibet. The fur of this goat is of two sorts : the touz, which is a 
soft, woolly undercoat of greyish hair, and an outer coat of long, 
silken hairs. To make a shawl a yard and a half square requires 
the touz of ten goats. The different parts of it are afterward sewn 
together with great skill. When busily engaged the artisan can 
earn at the utmost four annas, or eight cents of our money, per day. 
India shawls are named Dacca, Delhi, Bombay, Calcutta, Umritzer, 
&c, after the districts in which they are made. The labor, how- 
ever, is what chiefly determines the value of a shawl, even when the 
texture is not the finest. 

Indigo. — " This is a vegetable color, and belongs to a leguminous 
plant found in India, Africa and America, named Indigo Fera. 
There are about sixty species of this genus, and all yield indigo. 
The species from which it is extracted are the /. anil, the /. argentea, 
and the /. tine tor ia." 

" When indigo was first introduced, only a small quantity was 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I I 5 

added to the vvoad, by which the latter was much improved. More 
was afterwards gradually used, and at last the quantity became so 
large that the small admixture of woad served only to revive the 
fermentation of the indigo. Germany thus lost a production by 
which farmers, merchants and others acquired great riches. In 
consequence of the sales of woad being so much injured, a prohibi- 
tion was issued against the use of indigo in Saxony in the year 1650 ; 
and in the year 1652, Duke Ernest the Pious caused a proposal to 
be made to the Diet by his envoy, that indigo should be entirely 
banished from the empire, and that an exclusive privilege should be 
granted to those who dyed with woad. This was followed by an 
imperial prohibition of indigo on the 21st of April, 1654, which was 
enforced with the greatest severity in his domains. The same was 
done in France ; but in the well-known edict of 1669, in which Cal- 
bert separated the fine from the common dyers, it was stated that 
indigo should be used without woad; and in 1737, dyers were left 
at liberty to use indigo alone, or to employ a mixture of indigo 
and woad." — (Barlow's "Manufactures and Machinery of Great 
Britain.") 

" The indigo plant which grows in Bengal is small and straight, 
with thin branches which spread out in the form of a turf. The 
average height is about four feet. The leaves are soft, and like 
those of the common clover, and the blossoms are of a blue purple 
color, and when the plant is in full blossom it yields the greatest 
amount of indigo. 

For the mode of extracting the indigo from the plant, see Barthol- 
let on the " Elements of Dyeing ; Dr. Ure's " Dictionary of the Arts 
of Manufactures ;" and Dr. Thomson's " Vegetable Chemistry." 

The impurities in indigo are iron, clay, lime, magnesia and silica 
of a substance somewhat like gluten. 

Each chest you will find to contain a quantity of dust which 
sometimes amounts to eight or ten pounds. This dust is an adul- 
teration composed of starch or white lead mixed with powdered 
indigo, and is put in the chest in order to increase its weight. 

The principal varieties of indigo in commerce are the Bengal, 
Guatemala, Madras and the Manilla. 

The varieties of the Bengal indigoes are numerous, the best varie- 
ties are : 

First — The superfine or light blue. This is in a cubical form, 
light and soft to the touch, of a clean fracture, and will give a 
beautiful copper color on being scraped with the nail. 



Tl6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Second — Is called superfine with a violet color by being scraped. 
The thirteenth variety is an ordinary and low copper-colored 
indigo, with a copper-colored blue or red cast, and hard to break. 

The indigoes of Guatemala are of various kinds. The best are a 
bright blue color and very light and fine. These indigoes are 
equal to the best Bengal. The inferior kinds are a violet color and 
as a general thing are more mixed than the Bengal kinds. 

The Madras indigoes have a rough fracture. These indigoes 
when of the best quality, have great lightness, but are not equal to 
the Bengal or Guatemala. The middling kinds have a very slight 
copper color. The inferior kinds have a dark or muddy blue, 
black, or even gray, and greenish color. The Manilla indigoes are 
of a finer and lighter color than those of Madras, but not so fine as 
those of Bengal. The middling kinds are of a violet color, but are 
inferior to the violet of Bengal. 

The tests for indigo are too numerous to insert in a book of this 
kind, besides being too tedious and difficult for most dyers, they 
not having the facilities to "carry out such delicate operations as that 
of testing indigoes, and for more light upon this subject, dyers must 
consult, " Dr. Thomson's Vegetable Chemistry," and the other 
works mentioned in this article. 

Ingrain. — This term is particularly applied to certain carpets, 
and implies that the wool was colored before manufacturing. This 
it implies, we say, because it is no longer really true of ingrain 
carpets, they being now largely dyed in the yarn. To all intents 
and purposes the same, as coloring in the wool as regards the nature 
of the goods. 

Inkle Loom. — A ribbon loom. 

Irregular Fabrics. — By irregular fabrics we understand goods 
which are not a straight piece of cloth ; indeed, in some instances 
they are a garment almost complete, such as underwear, skirts, 
corsets, etc. 

The corset is woven so that the warp encircles the body ; hence 
the top and bottom are the edges of the web as it comes from the 
loom. The gores required to give necessary shape are therefore on 
each side of the web, the middle, or waist part, being smallest. The 
warp is composed of 36 independent sections, so arranged as to play 
off warp only where filling has been left in the shed, or so far as the 
shed extended ; hence, when a filling thread has been inserted 
through the entire width of the cloth, they all give warp, but in 
weaving the gores, where the filling was inserted into but a few 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I I 7 

inches of the fabric, only those sections on the corresponding space 
allow the warp to advance. 

To produce the shed in the right place to weave the double cloth 
for the pockets, and to produce the neat fancy effects of the weav- 
ing, requires a Jacquard head, but both this and the sectional let-off 
motion, though perfect in operation, would result in shapeless goods, 
and prove uncontrollable, if the ingeniuous take-up motion here 
applied were not used. This consists, first, of a wooden bar inset 
with points so as to retain all that is fed to it. Whatever portion of 
the web has been filled by any pick is slackened by the next beat of 
the lathe, and the take-up motion consisting of a rubber apron 
closely adjusted, draws up such slack, the above mentioned bar 
retaining all that is drawn, always leaving the web before the reed 
square, though the amount of cloth woven at the selvages, or top 
and bottom of the corset, is about double that in the middle. 

A very ingenious contrivance for taking up all slack in the filling 
by the shuttle is employed here, and is indispensable for this work. 
It would be impossible to do it justice without a diagram. Suffice it, 
therefore, to say that it not only takes up all the filling necessarily 
extended at every pick, from the web to the shuttle, at its destina- 
tion on either side, but also equalizes the tension to perfection. 
This improvement, added to other shuttles, would, as in this case, 
obviate great waste or uneven selvages or kinks along the sides of 
the goods, as is often the case, even in plain goods. It is very evi- 
dent that with a loom so well adapted to eccentric shapes irregular 
weaving must have a great field, and there is no reason why other 
garments, such as hosiery, under-clothing, skirts, etc., should not be 
as successfully produced. 

Italian Cloths. — A cotton warp and worsted filling lining 
cloth. Most of these goods are piece dyed. 



J. 

Jacks. — In the textile interest we have two jacks of importance, 
beside the many which do not amount to much. The loom jack is 
a part of the harness motion. Murphy speaks of jacks as a part of 
the hand looms in his 1831 edition. The spinning jacks are being 
superseded by genuine mules or by cheaper machines, an imitation 
of the mule called self-operators. 

Jacquards. — Such thorough and finely illustrated descriptions 



I I 8 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

of these machines may be found in Ure's Dictionary, Ashenhurst's, 
Barlow's or Gesner's works, that it seems superfluous to repeat them 
in an abbreviated form here. The later improvements are numer- 
ous, each builder having some to present as his special claim to 
patronage, and each will be liberal in supplying the necessary in- 
structions to accompany them. 

Jute. — A substance resembling hemp, being the fiber of the 
corchorus obitorius used for making gunny cloth ; also mats, coarse 
carpets, etc., etc. 



K. 

Kaleidoscope. — An instrument very useful to the designers of 
oil-cloths, carpets, tapestry, etc. When the colors in it are of the 
right shades, it supplies an endless variety of changes for the same 
colors, which, with a little modification or correction, will apply 
well to many textile fabrics. 

Kentucky Jeans. — A peculiar cotton warp and wool-filling 
fabric. When made right and honestly, a very serviceable cloth, 
formerly in color something similar to the cadet and Oxford mix- 
tures, but now made in many variations of color. 

Kerseys. — The common Kersey of to-day is a cheap woolen 
cloth of a twilled texture from which is derived the name Kersey 
twill. Simmonds is quoted in the latest editions of Webster's 
Dictionaries as follows : " A species of coarse woolen cloth, usually 
ribbed, woven from long wool. [Scot., Corsage j D., Karsai ; Fr., 
Carisei, Carisei, CreseaA ; Sp., Carisea ; Ger., Kersey, Kirsei ; Sw., 
Kersing ; Cf. Gael & Ir., Ceart, Ceirt. A rag, old garment.] 

Kerseymere. — A woolen cloth of the finest wools — Cassimere. 

Kilogrammetre. — The weight of one kilogramme raised to the 
height of one foot in one second of time. 

Knickerbocker Goods. — Are a woolen fabric in part or entirely 
made of Knickerbocker yarns. 

Knickerbocker Yarns. — These yarns are lumpy, spotted or 
striped, sometimes in several colors, produced in several ways, some 
of which are described in the following abstract from the Industrial 
Record, Queries and Replies. " The wool intended for knots is 
taken from the picker without oiling, and run through the first 
breaker with the comb idle, and workers and fancy set off accord- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. H9 

ing to size of knots wanted. The best knots drop between main 
cylinder and doffer. To make a lot of 500 pounds, red spots in 
black, first run 1 2-3- pounds of red knots with 37^ pounds of the 
black wool, through the first breaker, then run through the same 
card the remaining 450 pounds of black, and in 48 spools for feed- 
ing second breaker use 9 of the first lot (knotted spools) and 39 of 
the black, running the 9 with knots in the top row of creel. To 
make silk spotted Knickerbockers, run equal portions of silk and 
wool through first breaker, and use only 3 spools at a time on sec- 
ond breaker. Besides setting the workers off from the cylinder, 
the doffer must be set back — in fact, set clear away from the cylin- 
der. This allows the wool to remain on the cylinder till the naps 
are rolled, so that they fall away, or rather are flung from the cylin- 
der by centrifugal force. The distance at which the workers are set 
from the cylinders regulates the size of the naps, but if the doffer 
be close enough to catch the wool, then you are carding, not nap- 
ping. If the naps are too hard rolled, they will drop off in the 
spinning and carding; so they must be left with a beard sticking 
out to incorporate them thoroughly. Again, if you want the naps 
all one size, never take wool from the picker to nap, but run it 
through your first breaker and open jt out thoroughly, not partially 
between the picker and the regular carding or napping." 

Knitting. — Knitting is a process of producing a fabric by inter- 
twining the yarn, instead of weaving it together. It is now almost 
entirely done by machinery. The goods produced are sold as 
hosiery. It is a distinct and separate branch of textile manufac- 
tures. 



L. 

Lace and Lace Looms is such a complicated subject that space 
cannot be afforded for the needed illustrations. The subject is well 
considered by several authors. 

Lam. — A heddle or leaf. 

Lamps. — Lamps have been almost entirely superseded in factories 
where gas is available. The lamps to be considered here interest 
the student more than the manufacturer. Of the many men who 
will hold important positions in the course of another decade, not a 
few are obliged to do all their studying by lamp light, in their 
rooms at home or at the boarding house ; a large proportion of 



120 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

them can get no other time to practice dissecting, &c. To these a 
lamp which will supply an abundance of light on the work and pro- 
tect their eyes, is a boon which they cannot fail to appreciate if 
they will for a moment consider the many men who have ruined 
their sight for life for the want of a good lamp to study by. 

Lathe, Lay or Batten. — The frame in which the reed and 
shuttle boxes are fastened. Its use on the loom is to supply a race- 
board for the shuttles to travel on, and to beat up the picks during 
the changes of the sheds. 

Laying Out. — In woolen mills the term laying out is very com- 
mon ; it is more particularly applied to laying out lots, yarns, 
designs, etc., and refers to the necessary calculations referred to in 
their respective places. 

Lease, Lea or Leas. — By alternately crossing the threads of a 
warp their regular succession may be retained by means of lease 
rods or cords. The above terms are used for the cross of threads 
so made. 

Lino or Linau. — Murphy describes this as a species of gauze. 

Lingoes. — The weights used on the bottom of jacquard leashes. 
As there is nothing but these weights to draw down the lower sheds 
upon a jacquard loom, their importance is obvious. 

Live Spindles. — Although now rather too slow, it must be still 
acknowledged the best for even and smooth work. Live and dead 
spindles are more particularly known by these names in connection 
with throstles and cotton spinning. 

Logwood. — " The logwood tree is known to botanists by the name 
of Hmmatoxylon Compeachianum. Its bark is thin and smooth, but 
furnished with thorns ; its leaves resemble the laurel. The wood is 
hard, compact and capable of taking a fine polish. Its specific 
gravity is higher than water, in which it will sink. 

Like many other valuable dyestuffs, logwood was used a long time 
before the real nature of the coloring principle was known. 

" Chevreul made a chemical examination of logwood, and found 
that it contained a distinct coloring substance, which he called 
hematine, a name which has been changed to hasmatoxyline, to 
avoid any confusion with a substance having a similar name, con- 
tained in blood." 

Logwood contains resin and oil, sulphate of lime and alumina 
besides the coloring matter. The ingredients vary in different 
woods, some having more than others. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 2 I 

A solution of this wood is easily changed from its natural color, 
by alkalies to a purple, by acids to an orange. Almost all the 
metallic and earthy salts cause abundant precipitates or lakes, with 
its solutions, the colors of which vary from violet to black, and in all 
cases retaining a tinge of the violet hue ; so that a solution of log- 
wood always throws down a compound color, whose proportions of 
red and blue vary with the different metals used, and each gives 
deeper shades, according as it is more or less oxidized. 

Tin alone, of all the metals, gives it the property of resisting acids, 
and by taking a proper course with a mordant of tin, you can obtain 
a purple as durable as indigo blue. Alum always gives violet- 
colored shades. 

Logwood enters into all colors that have any tinge of the violet in 
their composition, such as drabs, lead, slates and all the violet 
shades, plums, some dark browns, etc. ; but its principal consump- 
tion is in logwood blues and in blacks, to which it communicates a 
softness and glossy lustre, unequalled by any other material. 

If a well saturated decoction of logwood be evaporated, a deep 
plum-colored magma, of a very tough and tenacious consistency, is 
obtained : this is called extract of logwood, hematine, or haematoxy- 
line. Chevreul's process for obtaining the extract of logwood is to 
digest logwood chips in water at 120 or 180° Fahrenheit, after- 
wards filtering the liquor and evaporating to dryness. What 
remains is put into alcohol for a day ; this is again filtered, and the 
clear liquor evaporated until it becomes thick. To this is added a 
little water, and evaporated anew. It is then left to itself, and the 
coloring matter crystallizes. 

The extract possesses the same properties as the decoction, and is 
in comparative strength to good logwood chips as 1 is to 5 : that is, 
one pound of the extract is equal to five pounds of the chips. 

Logwood grows in the West Indies and on the eastern shores of 
the Bay of Campeachy ; that which comes from Campeachy is the 
best." — Gibson. 

Looms. — There are now so many kinds of looms that several of 
the many builders require large books to furnish all the particulars 
of their manufacture alone. How useless then would be the 
attempt to describe them all briefly. For a general account of the 
construction of the more common looms most builders may be 
depended upon. For the construction of the Jacquard lace loom, 
etc., etc., the reader is referred to standard works on Weaving, 
Barlow, Ashenhurst, Gesner, &c, &c. Some of the most common 



122 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

names may be profitably enumerated : Roller, cam, tappet, chain, 
draw, open shed, close shed, positive shuttle motion, ribbon and 
tape looms. 

The roller loom proper is so called because the harnesses are 
raised and lowered by means of straps passing over rollers which are 
worked by an eccentric motion. 

A cam loom, tappet loom and chain looms are so called because 
the harness motions are governed either by cams, tappets or pattern 
chains. 

The open shed and close shed looms are names used to designate 
looms which close the shed at every pick, be the next shed entire 
or in part the same ; and those which do not change the position of 
the harness until the change is called for of necessity by a different 
shed. Much is said in favor of both which is true, and nearly as 
much which is exaggerated. There is no doubt that the open shed 
loom is easiest upon the yarn, but in some textures it makes a rough 
surface, in others the picks cannot be beaten in fully. The fact is, 
a loom which can readily be changed from one motion to the other 
without much trouble is wanted, that the shed may be made as 
required by the work. Such a loom will doubtless soon be pro- 
duced in a high state of perfection at the Crompton Loom Works. 

M. 

Madder. — " This plant or shrub, Rubia Tinctorum, rivals indigo as 
a dye drug, both from the beauty and permanence of the colors given 
by it, and also from the numerous shades that can be dyed by it. 
Madder is raised or cultivated in France, Holland, but mostly in 
Holland and the Levant. The Levant or Turkish madder is the 
best. In France and Holland the roots are gathered every three 
years, in Smyrna and Cyprus they are gathered every five years. 
When the roots are taken from the ground they are carefully 
cleansed and spread on the ground to dry; it is then ground to a 
fine powder and put into casks ; in this state it is received by the 
dyer. Madder should be kept in a dry place, as it easily absorbs 
moisture which is an injury to it ; when kept dry it improves by age, 
its age can be ascertained by the appearance of the head of the cask, 
if it is two or more years old the head will be swelled out by the 
swelling or growing of the madder. The quality of madder is 
judged by the taste and smell, the good will have a heavy sweet 
smell, with an earthy flavor, its taste is a sweet bitter ; when 
exposed to moisture its color will pass from the orange tint to a deep 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 123 

red. Madder is sometimes adulterated with brick dust, red or yel- 
low ochres, sand, clay, sawdust from mahogany, powdered logwood, 
and sandal wood, etc. The mineral impurities may be detected by 
putting some of the madder in a glass jar and pouring boiling water 
upon it, the madder will float and the sand, brick dust, clay, etc., 
will sink to the bottom." — Gibson. 

Mails. — Mails, glass or metal, are thread eyes used on jacquards, 
and sometimes harnesses. Some glass eyes or mails have also been 
shown of late in wire heddles. 

Mathematical Instruments. — How to use these instruments 
may be learned from much more satisfactory works than a para- 
graph in this or any other book. Especially do we recommend the 
beginner to purchase one of s-tandard authority. The selection of 
instruments in purchasing, is very practically treated in the intro- 
duction of such a work by F. E. Hulmer, F. L. S. 

Measuring. — Measuring in whatsoever part of the factory or 
processes, should at all times be done with the greatest care and 
accuracy. The little allowances here and there often lead to greater 
errors. Measuring machines, wherever they can be applied, if right 
good, are always better than hand measuring. 

Meltons. — Woolen cloth that has been well fulled, but not 
gigged. As the nap on these goods is developed entirely in the 
fulling mill, and because meltons are very generally made into gar- 
ments with raw edge seams, it is highly important that the stock be 
short, fine, sound, (of good fulling quality,) that the yarns be fine, 
not too hard, the texture not too open, and the fulling process just 
right. 

Merinos. — Many fabrics have from time to time been given this 
name, sometimes honestly; more often to deceive the trade, by 
falsely implying that they were made of Spanish or merino wool. 

Microscope. — The microscope is an optical instrument, which 
should have more than a simple definition here. But so important 
has its use become that some standard treatise on the subject is 
more advisable than a brief abstract. Its use in the designing 
room, however, is a subject which calls for some consideration. It 
is only of late years that the more advanced designers of textile 
fabrics have discovered the great aid they may obtain from optical 
instruments. The old saying, " Don't use glasses as long as you 
can see better without them," seems to have been interpreted as a 
general warning against optical aid. The fact that few can see well 



124 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

without some practice with any instrument, has perhaps led many 
to think they could still see better without. The microscope, when 
used properly, is a great help to any designer, those with the very 
healthiest eyes not excepted. When the proper power is applied in 
the right place, when the instrument suits the work, and the operator 
has learned the necessary points in regard to adjustment, etc., there 
will never more be a doubt of the benefits afforded by the use of 
optical instruments. Another reason why many have been discour- 
aged in attempts to use instruments, even after impaired sight was 
cause enough to resort to them, has been the impossibility to get 
the right instruments convenient in shape and power for the work. 
Another difficulty has been the ignorance of optics among those 
who should make the science a study. The compound microscope 
supplies a field of suggestions to the Jacquard designer which he 
can fill in no other way. With it he may see the most wonderful 
arrangement of particles in substances of every kind ; it opens to 
him the endless book of designs which excel all human possibili- 
ties, but afford unlimited numbers of suggestions which are more 
graceful, more pleasing to the eye than those from any other source. 
As an instance, we would cite a sectional view of many kinds of 
hair. Almost invisible to the naked eye, under the microscope they 
are most magnificent designs in gauze. But its use is not confined 
to suggestions alone. After having become familiar with its powers, 
one may distinguish the different textile fibers quickly and with a 
certainty. One may count the fibers in a thread, thus get at the 
grade of stock and yarn ; also ascertain the exact proportion of 
mixtures. Indeed, there is not room in all this book to tell of all 
its uses and benefits to manufacturers. The single microscope is 
no less important because it costs less money ; indeed, for some 
work it is infinitely superior to any compound microscope. Take, 
for instance, the most common use for it, dissecting the texture. If 
strong, a mingling of fibers is the consequence ; one is confused 
rather than aided ; but with a power that is adapted to the work, 
one can see every thread clear and distinct ; can work for hours 
without unusual fatigue to the eyes, notwithstanding the threads do 
not look like so much cord wood, as some expect to see it if they 
venture five dollars on a magnifying glass. The principal necessity 
is that of having the instruments constructed to suit the work. 
This opticians could do if they understood the work, but the time 
required they cannot spare to learn it. Consequently a good instru- 
ment from a good manufacturer may need reconstruction before it 



SflTZLI'S MANUAL. 125 

is right for the use of the textile interest. Full instructions for the 
care and management should accompany each instrument. 

Mixing. — When mixing different qualities, to produce mixtures of 
materials, if the several kinds go into the works at hap-hazard 
trouble will ensue, When cotton is mixed with wool, the mixing 
should be done after the wool has been oiled, if oiled at all. 
When waste or other short fibers are mixed with longer staples, the 
mixing before the picker is not enough, it will fall unevenly mixed 
in coming out of the picker ; the lighter fibers will not fly like 
the heavier, or a solid lock like one more open. For fancy mixtures 
the mixing should not end with picking ; the cards must be ad- 
justed to do their share of the work also. When long and short 
stock are mixed, the two doffers must be adjusted to take stock 
evenly, or one may take long stock and the other short. In 
fact, mixing stock is quite a scientific process. To mix colors to 
produce certain shades is an easy matter for a designer who is 
properly fitted out and understands the harmony of colors. 

Mixtures. — Mixtures of textures are several textures combined 
or compounded rather irregularly; (not a proper term, but quite 
common in some districts.) By mixed fabrics, we mean those in 
which the materials used are several distinct kinds, as cotton 
warp and wool filling, silk warp and worsted filling, etc., etc. ; 
sometimes, also, fabrics into which inferior stock has been mixed 
to deceive the purchaser. Mixtures of the stock are common ' 
for various purposes. Better stock may be mixed with a lower 
grade to make it spin to the desired number, the latter may be used 
in this way to cheapen the goods, or to give the necessary peculiari- 
ties to the yarn or fabric. Again stock of several colors may be 
mixed to produce what is known by the names mixture, mixes and 
mixings, in different parts. These kinds of mixtures are confined 
almost altogether to woolens. They are used alone, in combination 
with each other, and with other colors. There are certain mixtures 
like the Cadet, Oxford, etc., etc., which are supposed to be made 
nearly alike at all times and all places, but this is not the case. 
There is a great deviation of percentage, or shade, from any one 
sample one may take as a standard. To reproduce mixtures it is 
necessary to examine the fibers of a sample and count them (this is 
only possible with the microscope); by this means an accurate esti- 
mate may be formed of the colors, quantity and proportions needed. 
Much depends upon a good combination of colors ; if the necessary 
colors do not combine right, it is well to put in a small percentage 
of a color which will make up the defect. A black to be mixed 



126 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

with white should be a blue black, if not, a small percentage of blue 
should be added to give the blue tone. A blueish red looks well in 
black, but it must be quite blue to look even decent in a brown. A 
small percentage of orange in a dark blue blends well. 

Mohair. — "The silvery fleece." Mohair (Angora fleece) is not 
a substitute for sheep's wool, but occupies its own place among the 
textile fabrics. It has the aspect, feel and luster of silk without its 
suppleness. It differs materially from wool in the want of the felt- 
ing quality, so that the stuffs made of it have the fibers distinctly 
separated and are always brilliant. They do not retain dust or 
spots, and are thus particularly valuable for furniture goods. The 
fibre is dyed with great facility, and is the only textile fibre that 
takes equally the dyes destined for all its tissues. On account of 
the stiffness of the fibre it is rarely woven alone ; that is, when used 
for filling, the warp is usually of cotton, silk or wool, and the re- 
verse. It is not desired for its softness in addition to silkiness — 
such qualities as are found in Cashmere and Mauchamps wool — but 
for the elasticity, luster and durability of the fibre, with sufficient 
fineness to enable it to be spun. Those who remember the fashions 
of thirty or forty years ago, may call to mind the camlets so exten- 
sively used for cloaks and other outer garments, and will doubtless 
remember that some were distinguished for their peculiar luster and 
durability, which was generally attributed to the presence of silk in 
the tissue. These camlets were woven from mohair. Its luster and 
durability peculiarly fit this material for the manufacture of braids, 
buttons and binding, which greatly outwear those of silk and wool. 
The qualities of luster and elasticity peculiarly fit mohair for its 
chief use, the manufacture of Utrecht velvets commonly called 
furniture plush, the finest qualities of which are composed princi- 
pally of mohair, the pile being formed of mohair warps, which are 
cut in the same manner as silk warps in velvets. Upon passing the 
finger lightly over the surface of the best mohair plushes, the 
rigidity and elasticity of the fibre will be distinctly perceived. The 
fiber springs back to its original uprightness when any pressure is 
removed. The best mohair plushes are almost indestructible. 
They have been in constant use on certain railroads in this country 
for twenty years without wearing out. They are now sought by all 
the best railroads in the country as the most enduring of all cover- 
ings — an unconscious tribute to the remarkable qualities of this 
fibre. Mohair yarn is employed largely in Paris, Nismes and Lyons, 
and in Germany, for the manufacture of laces, which are substituted 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 27 

for the silk face fabrics of Valenciennes and Chantilly. The shawls 
frequently spoken of as made of Angora wool are of a lace texture, 
and do not correspond to the Cashmere or Indian shawls. The 
shawls known as Llama are made of mohair. One of these, valued 
at I80, weighed only two and one-third ounces. Mohair is largely 
consumed at Bradford, England, in the fabrication of light, summer 
dress goods. These goods are distinguished by their lustre and by 
the rigidity of the fabric. Mohair is now extensively used to form 
the pile of certain styles of plushes used for ladies' cloakings ; also, 
for the pile of the best fabrics styled Astrakans. — Hayes. 

Moreens. — A certain fabric with a watered finish. 

Mules. — Mules are without doubt the best machinery available 
for spinning cotton, wool and worsted, when fine even yarn is the 
first and great requisite. 

Muslin. — Named from Mosul in x\sia. There are plain and 
figured muslins, some nearly as close as cambric, but much finer, 
yet others almost as open as gauze. 

N. 

Nap. — The ends of the fibers of which a fabric is composed being 
drawn out by means of a gigg or napper are called the nap; those 
worked out on the surface by the fulling process are also called nap, 
but this nap cannot be made to stand or lay down in such smooth 
and regular order as when gigged out. 

Natural Grease in Wool. — This grease is very variable in 
different wools as regards quantity, but the nature is similar in all 
breeds. The soluble part of it is produced by the secretion of the 
sweat ; the insoluble is the product of the soil and surrounding cir- 
cumstances. Some wools contain from 50 to 75 per cent, of their 
weight in grease, others only from 15 to 20 per cent. To rid the 
wool of this grease without attacking the fiber with the chemicals 
employed, is one of the secrets of success in scouring. The soluble 
grease is easily saponified, not so with the insoluble, which can be 
carried off by water only because soluble grease is the agent which 
retains the insoluble upon and in the wool. 

Needles. — There are many kinds of needles used in factories. 
Beside the large variety of sewing needles, there are those which on 
some kinds of looms are necessary to convey the pattern from the 
pattern chains or cards to the lifting parts. Dissecting needles are 
perhaps the most interesting subject here. They should be as fine 



128 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

as possible, care being taken to have them strong and long enough 
for the work and instrument used. They should not have a blunt 
point like a shawl pin, but taper gradually to the point. At least 
six kinds of dissecting needles should be conveniently at hand — 
three or four sizes of round ones, two or three sizes of the flat kinds ; 
of the latter, at least one should have a bend edgewise, to be con- 
venient under a short-focus instrument. 

Neutral Colors. — The effect of these tints and colors are im- 
portant in textile designs. Ashenhurst says : 

" Suppose we have alternate stripes of red and green, or if we 
have red figures on a green ground, or vice versa, the eye could not 
rest long upon them without experiencing an unpleasant sensation ; 
the two colors would begin to swim into each other, as it were, and 
the longer the eye rests upon them the stronger and more un- 
pleasant will this swimming sensation become; but if the two colors 
be separated by black or white, or some tertiary or neutral color, 
then this swimming sensation will be entirely prevented, and yet 
perfect harmony will prevail. In the same manner, if blue and 
orange be juxtaposed the swimming sensation will result, but it may 
again be prevented by the introduction of neutral. If purple and 
yellow are placed together the effect is not quite so unpleasant, be- 
cause the two colors, although complementary, are more nearly 
allied to light and darkness respectively. Yet even in this case the 
effect is much improved by the presence of tertiary or neutral 
colors. Therefore, at all times colors which are complementary to 
each other should either be present in subdued form or separated 
from each other by the presence of some neutral color. In addition 
to this quality of modifying the effect of complementary colors, 
neutral colors also possess the property of modifying the effect upon 
each other of colors which possess the same common element. As 
has been shown, colors which possess the same common element, if 
placed in juxtaposition, have the effect of detracting from each 
other, but if separated by black, by white, or by neutral color, this 
mutual detraction is prevented or modified. If, for example, we 
place blue and green together, one color will partly destroy the 
other, and the point of junction of the two will scarcely be dis- 
cernible, but if we separate the two by either a black or white line 
we shall find the effect materially improved. In the same manner 
we may deal with red and orange, or with any other two powerful 
or bright colors, and the result will invariably be the same. In 
speaking of neutral colors, the peculiar properties of gold as a 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 29 

neutral may be pointed out. Although the appearance of the color 
of gold is decidedly yellow, yet it is one of the most neutral colors 
to be met with. Not only will it harmonize with any or all colors, 
but it will modify the effect of any two colors, or compositions of 
color, upon each other. It is for this property as much as for its 
peculiar richness that gilded frames are so much preferred for pic- 
tures, the richness and neutrality of the color of the gold not only 
tending to improve the effect of the coloring of the picture, but at 
the same time effectually preventing the interference in an undue 
degree of any surrounding colors. Gold is a color which is very 
rarely used in textile fabrics, yet it may sometimes be used with 
advantage, and whenever it is used this peculiar property may be 
borne in mind." 

Numbers. — A systematic method of numbering everything about 
a factory that can be numbered to advantage saves much confusion. 
The method of numbering yarns is given under yarn numbers. A 
good system of numbering styles is to have two sets of numbers, one 
to designate the series, another the variation of the series. For 
example, a pattern is ordered in eight variations. Call this pattern, 
series No. 1, the several changes, variations, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 
and 8. The term series may be improved upon, also the word 
variations. Separate lots of stock laid out for certain orders, the 
batches colored by the dyer, the warps made by the warper, the cuts 
by the weaver, and every sample, remnant or other piece of goods 
finished should be recorded with a series of numbers. The number- 
ing of wool, yarns, etc., is exhaustively treated by Leroux. 

Nut Galls. — Nut galls are an excrescence which grows upon 
certain species of the oak. {Quercus infertoria.) They contain 
gallic acid and tannin. There are several kinds of nut galls from 
East India, Smyrna and Aleppo, differing mainly in ripeness of the 
nuts. Some are black, others green or white. When mixed they 
are called natural galls. The Blue Aleppo are best for most dyes, 
the Smyrna come next. They must be ground before they can be 
used for dyeing. 



Oil. — Many kinds of oil are used in and about factories. At one 
time the varieties were very few, sperm oil for lubricating machinery, 
olive, poppy or some similar vegetable oil on stock. Mineral oils 
9 



I30 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

are now largely used for lubricating machinery, and are in many 
respects better than animal oils, although in some few points they 
are not equal to them. Consequently oils are mixed in different 
proportions. When well mixed, and according to the work to be 
done, there is no doubt, the best results can be attained in this way.. 
Of the animal and fish oils used sperm, lard, tallow, red and elaine 
are the most important, and olive, cotton seed, poppy seed and 
palm of the vegetable oils. Kerosene and paraffine are the two 
mineral oils in common use. The following table of comparative 
weights, clipped from a periodical, is interesting : 

Deg. 

Baume. Per Gal. 

Naphtha 68 to 73 5f 

Kerosene 45 6£ 

Paraffine 24 ~j\ 

" %■■ 27 7f 

" 30 7i 

" 33 7i 

" 36 7 

Castor 15 7i to 8£ 

Linseed, boiled ig Ji 

" raw 21 7^ 

Menhaden, light .„ 20 l\ 

dark 21 ~j\ 

Cotton seed r 1 7i 

Whale 21 7i 

Fish 22 7$ 

Olive 22 7$ 

Lard 23 "]\ 

Neatsfoot 23 "]\ 

Palm 25 7-J 

Sperm, natural 29 ~j\ 

" bleached 29 7^ 

Manchester 23! 7J 

" Oiling wool is effected by means of a greasy substance, suffi- 
ciently fluid to afford elasticity to the wool. The liquid oils are, 
therefore, the most suitable, and the more liquid they are the better. 
Oil possesses the property of rendering the wool supple and adapted 
to carding, the ' moist ' process, on the contrary, destroys the quali- 
ties of the wool by the repeated jarring and stretching produced by 
carding." — Leroux. 

From 3 to 6 quarts of oil per cwt. of wool seem to be the most 
common quantities used. Stock to be worked into shoddy must be 
oiled ; it is found that a good saponified oil is best for this purpose. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 131 

Leroux recommends a mixture of oleine and olive oil and gives a 
good formula for a composition which we do not feel at liberty to 
publish. The entire subject of oiling is treated in his work and 
would be well worth the price of the work to some who are sorely in 
need of advice on this subject. 

" Of the elements which analysis shows these oils and greases to 
consist of, two only may be considered as bearing on their use in 
woolen manufacture, namely, stearine and oleine, and their value 
for wool and soap depends largely on the relative proportions of 
these substances contained in them. The principles which are here 
suggested as governing their application may be expressed thus : 

First — That the successful results obtained in oiling wool will be 
directly as the oleine in the oil predominates over the stearine. 

Second — That the amount of felt or solidity obtained in fulling 
will be directly as the excess of stearine over oleine in the oil or 
grease of which the fulling-soap is made. 

Third — That the cleanliness of the goods will be directly as the 
oleine in the oil or grease from which the soap is made is in excess 
of the stearine. 

As to the first proposition, a perfect wool oil must have body 
enough to protect the barbs or serratures of the fiber and prevent 
waste, it must be diffusive enough to spread well, and it must scour 
out of the cloths with ease. Oleine, or so-called elaine, if an honest 
article could be obtained, would fill these conditions better than any 
other oil. The next best, when not too costly, is olive (oleine, 72 ; 
stearine, 28 ;) and after it lard oil (oleine, 62 ; stearine, 38). 

As to the second proposition, the value of the different oils and 
fats for fulling-soaps would be in the following order : Tallow 
(stearine, 70 ; oleine, 30) ; lard (stearine, 38 ; oleine, 62 ;) palm 
(stearine, 31 ; oleine, 69). In the above enumeration cotton-seed 
oil is omitted, as its composition and properties have not yet been 
well enough ascertained to make its use alone in a fulling-soap 
advisable. It may be used mixed with tallow, for economy's sake, 
on goods that do not require an extreme felt. 

As to the third proposition, the best scouring-soap is that made 
from oleine. The value of the other oils and greases will be in 
order reversed from that of their value for fulling-soaps. The rea- 
son for this is probably that the oleic acid has not the same affinity 
for the lime salts in the water as the stearic acid. 

The greater the proportion of stearine in the soap the greater will 
be the liability to decomposition of the soap and formation of in- 



I32 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

soluble stearates in the cloths, and consequent soapy smell. In- 
soluble, because the best known solvent for them, glycerine, is still 
too costly for use. The same evil is caused by the use of the stearic 
oils on wool, because the salts used in dyeing and the iron from 
card grinding will also form these insoluble compounds with stearic 
acid. 

The above suggestions are the result of efforts to ascertain the 
causes of the different action of the various oils and soaps in practice. 
It is not claimed for them that they are indisputable, but the results 
obtained in an extensive practice based upon them seem to justify 
the writer in the conclusion that they are in the main correct. — 
R. A. Clog her, in a Letter to the Bulletin of National Wool Associa- 
tion. 

Oil Spots on Finished Goods. — Instruct every hand to watch 
closely for oil spots, and the moment one is detected let every 
measure to obviate a repetition of the occurrence be attended to ; 
also let the goods be detained in their progress until the existing 
damage has been rectified ; moreover, let no such piece of goods lay 
in folds, that the' oil spots may not come in contact with clean 
portions of the goods, or, if left in folds, let thick paper be placed 
between the single folds to prevent multiplication. To extract the 
oil from cloth, many erroneous methods and ideas are employed, 
and generally with unsatisfactory results ; in consequence, thousands 
of yards are given away by manufacturers to parties who can easily 
remove the grease and sell the goods for perfect. The simplest and 
surest process for extracting oil spots is to saturate the oil spot with 
benzine, then place two pieces of very soft blotting paper under and 
two upon it, and press well; in some cases a hot iron is necessary, 
in others a high pressure, without heat is sufficient. By this means 
the fat is dissolved and entirely absorbed by the paper. To rub the 
oil spot with a sponge saturated with turpentine or benzine only 
spreads the grease. 

Organzine. — Silk warp threads, the filling being called tram, from 
Trama, Latin for weft. Organzine is an Italian technical term 
meaning extra-spun or machined. The organzine silk, commonly 
used for silk mixtures (cassimeres), is said to have 260,000 to 280,- 
000 yards per pound of 14 ounces. 

Orleans Cloth. — Certain thin fabrics, cotton warp, worsted fill- 
ing. 

Overcoatings. — Overcoatings, whether thick or thin, coarse or 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 33 

fine, should always be an elastic fabric that is as much so as well- 
fulled woolen goods can be. When hard or " boardy" they never 
make a graceful garment. The special goods made for overcoats 
are nearly all soft fabrics. Long nap in fancy effects have been very 
fashionable, but the cloth finish seems to be reclaiming its former 
popularity. 

P. 

Paint for Spool Drums. — Spirits of turpentine, 2 parts; linseed 
oil (boiled with litharge), 1 part ; Venice turpentine, 1 part ; Black 
oil varnish, 1 part. 

Paramattas. — Fine cloths originally made of Paramatta wool 
filling and silk warp. 

Pattern. — The word pattern is variously used for design, char- 
acter and parts of designs, but the use of it in this work has been 
confined to represent the limits of one complete design in the 
fabric. Thus, a fancy fabric may be many repetitions of the pattern. 

Pattern Books. — Are used in great variety as the best means of 
preserving samples of cloth, yarn and colors. (See books recom- 
mended in outfit catalogue.) A pattern book should open flat 
and when full be of an equal thickness back and front; the paper 
should be heavy enough to keep straight and not pucker (pains 
being taken to place samples of uniform size in exactly the same 
place on each leaf will permit lighter paper) ; samples should never 
be kept in books made of highly colored paper. If the harmony of 
colors is well understood special colors for peculiar samples may be 
an advantage, but such book should be made to order and not used 
at random. Almost any color looks well on manila ; many will not 
look well on pure white. Book paper or natural tint is very good. 
We advise heavy manila for common use, and white or natural tint 
for very nice books. It does not pay to buy machine-stitched 
books ; they appear well, are cheaper and do well if not much 
used, but they lack durability. 

Pattern Rooms. — All first-class mills keep one or more looms 
weaving sample pieces ; in nearly every case this work is done in a 
separate room, often in the designing room. The pattern room 
should be for nothing else, however, than for producing sample 
pieces, and for cutting them up into patterns to keep and to send 
to market. When the pattern room is dispensed with, it is almost 



134 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

invariably at the expense of interference with regular work else- 
where. Good pattern looms, a large assortment of pattern yarns 
and many of the conveniences of the designing room are needed. 
Pattern yarns are not always attainable in the factory in sufficient 
variety ; or novelties in yarn may be wanted which had better be 
paid for liberally than attempted at the mill. There are a number 
of reliable houses who furnish yarns of every description. Such 
an one we consider Messrs. Tingue, House & Co. Many other 
firms might be mentioned. 

Peach Wood. — (See Brazil Wood.) 

Pencils. — When sketching for an elaborate design, nearly all 
grades of artists' pencils are called for ; to do more ordinary work 
the usual five grades of any good make will suffice. When a pencil 
sketch must afterwards be inked as little erasing as possible should 
be done, a mark to show that a dot or line should have been 
erased, often answers the purpose and will disappear when the 
whole is cleaned of lead. If erasure is necessary three precautions 
will save bad results : First, a pencil which does not disturb the sur- 
face fibers of the paper or make a crease, and will not smut. The 
smut from some pencil-marks can never be cleaned off the paper 
entirely; second, use smooth paper with good finish; third, always 
use clean pure gum. A neat draughtsman or designer will take 
great pains to keep his rubber clean. To sharpen a pencil cut wood 
well back then reduce the lead to a point with a pencil file or pad. 
In this way a clean, long, sharp point is made and no lead wasted by 
breaking. 

Peg Board. — An invention for the convenience of designers in 
working out small ground fabrics, used instead of a slate or design 
paper, at one time very common in Scotland. Other devices for 
the same purpose are now supplied, and are, without doubt, superior 
to the most improved pegging board. For instance, blocks either 
cube or thin to cover an equal area each. These may be colored 
in great variety ; thus aid the designer to keep tally of the disposi- 
tion he wishes to make of several kinds of yarn. The ruled slate, 
however, has many advantages, especially a double one, which can 
be closed like a book. 

Persian Carpets. — Persian carpets, whether wrought in Persia, 
India or elsewhere, are formed upon a vertical frame, on which 
warp threads are arranged. Upon these tufts of woolen yarns are 
knotted, and over each row of these tufts a wool thread is passed 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 35 

to bind them. Turkey carpets are made in the same manner, and 
some French tapestries; only in the latter a shuttle needle is used 
in attaching the woolen threads to the warp. 

Pick. — A throw of the shuttle, also one filling thread, are tech- 
nically termed a pick. 

Pick Counters. — This term is used for a variety of applications. 
The person who goes about the weave-room counting the picks is, 
in some mills, honored with this title ; while in others he may have 
a different appellation, and the instrument he uses for a guage is 
called pick counter. Some looms have an automatic machine for 
indicating the number of picks that have been woven during the 
day ; these devices also have this name. Linen provers are some- 
times so called. While on this subject of counting it will be well to 
suggest that it is better to have a two-inch guage than a quarter 
inch. 

Pickers. — This word is used for various meanings. There are 
Wool, Cotton, Waste, Rag, Burr Pickers, &c. ; Loom Pickers. As- 
sorters are also called pickers in some districts. 

The Wool Picker is a very simple machine, and is used for open- 
ing the wool for the cards. It is speeded very high, and the teeth 
are far apart in order to do the work without tearing the wool. 

Cotton Pickers are much more complicated, larger and more 
expensive. 

Burr Pickers are used by woolen mills to extract the burrs from 
the wool. There are several good machines in the market for this 
purpose. The chemical process for extracting vegetable substances 
from the wool is dangerous unless well understood. 

Rag and Waste Pickers are machines which convert rags and 
yarn waste into shoddy. 

Loom Pickers are made of rawhide, sole leather, wood, etc., etc. 
The picker or picking stick, being driven by cams or arms for the 
purpose, drives the picker and it the shuttle. 

Picking Out. — Picking out is a common term for dissecting ; 
also, when a weaver has to pick back to take out filling on the 
loom, he is said to be picking out. 

Picking Motion. — All the parts of a loom which combined 
throw the shuttle. 

Pirn. — A quill, reed or small shuttle. 



136 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Plaiting. — Plaiting was doubtless the beginning of weaving. 
The remains of this class of weaving have been found in the lakes 
of Switzerland among the lake dwellings which belong to the stone 
age. 

Poplin. — Poplins proper are made with silk and worsted. Fab- 
rics entirely of worsted are sometimes so named by the trade. 

Porcupines. — Some comb circles are called porcupines. The 
name is also used for coarse gills in some places. 

Presses. — Many fabrics must be pressed one or more times dur- 
ing the finishing process. Formerly this was all done with hand- 
screw presses. Now the hydraulic press is used or the more recent 
inventions by means of which goods are pressed between a roll and a 
metallic concave plate, the goods being run through quite rapidly 
while in the other style of presses they must be folded between 
layers of press paper, the several pieces built up into a pile in the 
press with hot plates between them. Here they must remain several 
hours at least, and often the processes must be repeated. The 
press papers should be of very good stock, smooth and tough. 

Prevention of Knots in Wool. — " In carding there are often 
found knots in the wool, and the foreman should be aware of the 
source of this defect, for a material loses much of its value in which 
it is found to exist to any great extent. 

The causes producing knots are : 

Too much moisture in the wool. 

Irregularities in the surface of card clothing. 

Unnecessary coarseness of card clothing. 

Dullness of the teeth of the card clothing. 

Faulty adjustment of intervals between the rollers ; and especially, 
the fancy being too far off. 

When this case occurs, the fancy is brought nearer the main 
cylinder, but not too near, however, or by its velocity it will carry 
away the wool from the surface of the main cylinder. 

The fancy ought to lightly touch the wool on the surface of the 
cards of the main cylinder, so as to smooth, straighten and prepare 
it to be hooked by the doffer. 

The harder and stronger the wool, the more it should be sub- 
jected to the action of the fancy ; and, on the other hand, the finer 
it is, the less it should be so treated. For this reason fancies are 
made of different sizes, and it may be well to add, that though 
many machine builders make them, only a few make them properly. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 37 

Fancies are sometimes liable to the important defect of carrying 
off the wool from the main cylinder, and throwing it forcibly into 
the air. This imperfection is called " spitting," and results either 
from shortness or stiffness of the teeth, from their being too thickly 
set, or from the dullness of those of the main cylinder. It may be 
remedied by slightly flattening the teeth of the fancy, if too stiff, 
and sharpening those of the main cylinder, when dull. 

To obtain a good and advantageous result from carding, we must 
have : 

First — Perfectly oiled wool. 

Second— Very little moisture in the wool. 

Third — No irregularities in the teeth. 

Fourth — Card clothing to suit the nature of the wool. 

Fifth — Cards always well ground. 

Sixth — A proper adjustment of the intervals, especially in the 
case of the fancy. 

Seventh — The velocity of the doffer regulated to suit the product. 

Eighth — The journals of each roller frequently oiled when in 
motion. 

Ninth — A temperature of 18 to 20 Centigrade. 

Tenth — Clean belts. 

We may add, however, that a temperature of 25 ° C. would do no 
harm in carding, but, on the contrary, would enable the wool, which 
is very elastic when warm, to be more easily drawn out." — Leroux, 

Print Cloth. — Raw cotton goods woven expressly for prints. 
Prints. — Cotton goods printed, or calico. 

Printed Dress Goods. — These are made in many ways, but the 
name was first given to cotton warp and worsted filling goods, or 
a sort of delaine when printed. 

Pulled Wool or Pelt Wool. — The wool which is taken from 
the pelt of slaughtered sheep is known by these names and several 
others. There are various ways of pulling wool — not exactly of the 
pulling, but of the manner of loosening the wool in the skin. Sev- 
eral of the chemical processes (notably the lime process) are very 
much quicker than sweating, but much more unsafe, besides leaving 
so much lime in the wool as to make it difficult to scour. Even 
with sweating the healthiest wool is easily injured, and often the 
damage is not fully developed until the wool has been subjected to 
scouring or even dye liquors. The purchase of pulled wool then, 



I38 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

is decidedly precarious; even tolerable experts are frequently 
deceived. When wool has been well handled in pulling, washing 
and drying, there is no reason why it should be inferior to 
clipped wool of the same quality and grade, which has been 
clipped when the sheep would naturally shed much of its wool; 
the proper time for clipping is a point of importance often for- 
gotten. There is no doubt that wool cut while it still has a firm 
root in the skin is healthier and stronger than when it has attained 
its full growth and ripeness, as it were ; but the growers dislike to 
lose four or five weeks' growth, and therefore wait. As sheep are 
seldom slaughtered at this time, the inference is that pelts in gen- 
eral have "firm wool" on them. The sweating process of pulling 
is simple but slow. One very successful wool-puller selects the 
pelts, exposes them on a large field, flesh side up, a few hours on a 
fair day, then piles them in his storehouse, taking pains to thor- 
oughly salt the flesh side before rolling up each fleece separately. 
When ready to pull, the pelt is washed and prepared as usual, taken 
to the sweating pit, allowed to remain there until the wool is begin- 
ning to loosen on some pelts ; these are then taken out, and the 
others as fast as they reach the same stage. The pullers next pull 
the wool, throwing the wool very similar to the manner of wool 
sorters. If the skin is in good condition the wool pulls freely and 
without bits of skin coming with the wool. It must be now quickly 
dried or it will heat, become yellow and tender. It is here that 
many pullers lose the benefit of great pains in other stages of the 
processes. Pulled wool containing much lime is much more readily 
and thoroughly scoured if oiled with some good saponified oil, 
picked and allowed to lay ten or twelve hours covered up before 
scouring. The quantity of oil used and the time of laying must 
be governed by the temperature and condition of the atmosphere at 
the time and place of its being done, as well as by the amount of 
lime present in the wool. One to two gallons of oil in double the 
quantity of water are safe limits to give. 



Q. 

Quadrilled. — A foreign term used for " checkered," not com- 
mon except in trade. Quadrilled design paper is the proper name 
for counter ruled, like cross section paper. This quadrilled paper, 
to be accurate, requires much pains and time in preparing the 
ruling machinery, consequently perfect paper costs far more than 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 39 

the same quality ruled one way only. Nearly all reliable houses 
keep only a very good quality of paper, which also enhances the 
price; they can, however, readily furnish cheaper paper and com- 
mon cross-ruling to order. 

Quercitron Bark. — The inside bark of black oak {queacus 
nigra). It was formerly used, after being ground or bruised, for 
dyeing yellow, etc., but is superseded by flavine. 

Quill. — A weft bobbin. 



R. 

Raising Machine; or, Raising Engine. — Scotch and English 
terms for the machine we call gigg. 

Recess. — A crease in a pattern or fabric caused by adjoining 
threads worked in a manner to produce a sharp depression in the 
surface. 

Receipts. — The many receipts which may be given for com- 
pounds and compositions, soaps and dyes, etc., etc., have all a 
proper place and use, but are really practical only when prepared 
and used in a practical manner. In other words, only an average 
formula can be given ; variations in stuff used, in the process of 
preparation, and uses made of the receipts, can not be allowed for; 
they must be left altogether to the judgment of the operator. 
Dick's Encyclopedia of Practical Receipts should be in every 
manager's and overseer's library. Like books, also others quite 
different yet very valuable, and a host of receipts for dyeing, are 
extant, all containing many valuable receipts, while not a few are 
worthless. 

Record Books; or, Memorandum Books for Designers, Superin- 
tendents, etc., should be of convenient size, good quality paper, 
plain ruling, and pages numbered. Account books will answer, but 
the size of book, excepting thickness or number of pages, should 
be same as the design and sample books. To keep a record of 
everything one learns", is a trivial task ; the benefits afforded there- 
by may be inestimable. The difficulty some experience in acknowl- 
edging new accessions to their stock of knowledge is a serious 
matter, and no credit to any one. In keeping a record, write con- 
cisely, never hastily. The arrangement of the book should be a 
specimen of systematic habits. It is sometimes necessary to make 



140 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

a memorandum hastily ; have a special book for this, and copy from 
it at leisure. 

Reeds. — Reeds are a series of narrow strips of metal, between 
which the threads of the warps pass in the loom. The purpose of 
the reed is two-fold — to keep the threads evenly divided and to 
strike the filling in many places in beating up. The derivation of 
the name is from the material used for the narrow strips years ago, 
viz., split reeds. The writer has a very fine reed of this description 
still in possession. The origin of the word split, for dent, is also 
explained by this allusion to the original material used for reed 
making. The coarser the reed, to a certain extent, the easier the 
picks go into the fabric. The finer the reed the smoother the 
goods, and with perfect reeds the less reed marks. Reeds may be 
unevenly set ; the wires may not stand parallel with the warp ; the 
wire may be too thick, thin, wide or narrow for the work in hand ; 
indeed, a perfect reed is not so easily found as needed. The thread 
in each dent should be such as to be the same in each repeat of the 
pattern. Threads riding each other may often be remedied by a 
different number of threads per dent, or by taking different threads 
of the pattern in the same dent. Some patterns look best with all 
the threads of the same texture together in the same dents ; others 
are much improved by a different division. Reeds are damaged 
more by careless handling and abuse than by actual wear and tear 
necessary. Flat steel wire is now considered the best material for 
reeds ; brass and iron are too soft, and once bent do not spring 
back into shape and place. Rules for estimating reeds may be found 
further on, under the head of Rules. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



141 



TABLE OF REEDS, 

Showing the Threads per Dent, No. of Reed, and Threads per Inch. 















a 

a 


a 
a 
Q 


Q 


c 

Q 


C 
V 

Q 


-6 

V 


c 

(D .ft 

Q ° 


c 
Q u 

u C 


Q 1 


B 


c 

Q ° 

M c 


V 

-a e 


01 

ft .g 
•3 j= 

a! l— ' 


ft x 
in u 

m 1- 1 


ft .g 

rt M 


ft x 

•a c 
a! >-i 


Pi 




ft u 
to ft- 
T3 „, 


ft V 
w ft, 


ft £ 
to ft 


0. S3 
<n ft 
■a m 


ft S 
to p. 

■0 01 




4J u 

u u 

-c a. 
H 


JS ft, 
r -1 m 


1> u 

is u 


*** ft 
H to 


V 

.ft 

g 

a 


£ rt 


rt -a 
-S ?! 

en H 


U -3 
£ n 

H J3 


2 ■% 


£ -a 

£ rt 


CO *0 

— -. ™ 




•a rt 


- 1 


\0 T3 

C 1- 
a j= 


7 


14 


21 


28 


35 


42 


17.5 


24.5 


28 


31.5 


38.5 


7.5 


15 


22.5 


30 


37.5 


45 


18.75 


26.25 


30 


33.75 


41.25 


8 


16 


24 


32 


40 


48 


20 


28 


32 


36 


44 


8.5 


17 


25.5 


34 


42.5 


51 


21 25 


29.75 


34 


38.25 


46.75 


9 


18 


27 


36 


45 


54 


22.5 


31 5 


36 


40.5 


49.5 


9.5 


19 


28.5 


38 


47 5 


57 


23 75 


33.25 


38 


42.75 


52.25 


10 


20 


30 


40 


50 


60 


25 


35 


40 


45 


55 


10.5 


21 


31.5 


42 


52.5 


63 


26.25 


36 75 


42 


47.25 


57.75 


11 


22 


33 


44 


55 


66 


27.5 


38.5 


44 


49.5 


60.5 


11.5 


23 


34.5 


46 


57.5 


69 


28.75 


40.25 


46 


51.75 


63.25 


12 


24 


36 


48 


60 


72 


30 


42 


48 


54 


66 


12.5 


25 


37 5 


50 


62.5 


75 


31.25 


43.75 


50 


56.25 


68.75 


13 


26' 


39 


52 


65 


78 


32 50 


45.5 


52 


58.5 


71.5 


13.5 


27 


40.5 


54 


67.5 


81 


33.75 


47.25 


54 


60.75 


74.25 


14 


28 


42 


56 


70 


84 


35 


49 


56 


63 


77 


14.5 


29 


43.5 


58 


72.5 


87 


36.25 


50.75 


58 


65.25 


79.75 


15 


30 


45 


60 


75 


90 


37.5 


52.5 


60 


67.5 


82.5 


15.5 


31 


46.5 


62 


77.5 


93 


38.75 


54 25 


62 


69.75 


85.25 


16 


32 


48 


64 


80 


96 


40 


56 


64 


72 


88 


16 5 


33 


49.5 


66 


82.5 


99 


41.25 


57.75 


66 


74.25 


90.75 


17 


34 


51 


68 


85 


102 


42.5 


59.5 


68 


76.5 


93.5 


17.5 


35 


52.5 


70 


87 5 


105 


43.75 


61 25 


70 


78.75 


96.25 


18 


36 


54 


72 


90 


108 


45 


63 


72 


81 


99 


18.5 


37 


55.5 


74 


92 5 


111 


46.25 


64.75 


74 


83.25 


101.75 


19 


38 


57 


76 


95 


114 


47.5 


66.5 


76 


85.5 


104.5 


19.5 


39 


58.5 


78 


97.5 


117 


48.75 


68.25 


78 


87.75 


107.25 


20 


40 


60 


80 


100 


120 


50 


70 


80 


90 


110 


20.5 


41 


61.5 


82 


102.5 


123 


51.25 


71.75 


82 


92.25 


112.75 


21 


42 


63 


84 


105 


126 


52.5 


73.5 


84 


94.5 


115.5 


21.5 


43 


64.5 


86 


107.5 


129 


53.75 


75.25 


86 


96.75 


118.25 


22 


44 


66 


88 


110 


132 


55 


77 


88 


99 


121 


22.5 


45 


67.5 


90 


112.5 


135 


56.25 


78.75 


90 


101.25 


123.75 


23 


46 ' 


69 


92 


115 


138 


57.5 


80.5 


92 


103.5 


126.5 


23.5 


47 


70.5 


94 


117.5 


141 


58.75 


82.25 


94 


105.75 


129.25 


24 


48 


72 


96 


120 


144 


60 


84 


96 


108 


132 


25 


50 


75 


100 


125 


150 


62.5 


87.5 


100 


112.5 


137.5 


26 


52 


78 


104 


130 


156 


65 


91 


104 


117 


143 


27 


54 


81 


108 


135 


162 


67.5 


94.5 


108 


121.5 


148.5 


28 


56 


84 


112 


140 


168 


70 


98 


112 


126 


154 


29 


58 


87 


116 


145 


174 


72.5 


101.5 


116 


130.5 


159.5 


30 


60 


90 


120 


150 


180 


75 


105 


120 


135 


165 



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144 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Reels. — Measuring Reels are used principally by spinners and 
designers to measure samples of yarn before weighing to ascertain 
the size number. This machine, although small, is expensive; to be 
really useful it must be accurate, well made and finished. There 
are many kinds with registering dials, etc., which add to the cost. 
A measuring reel for measuring cloth as it comes from the loom 
was invented not long ago, but the inventor has withheld it for 
further improvements. 

Yarn Reels, for winding the yarn from bobbins, are also used in 
great variety. Some very complete machines of this kind are 
made by a firm in Pawtucket, R. I. It is economy to use a good 
reel ; the character of the skein is an important point when it 
becomes necessary to wind or spool the yarn again. In tieing the 
parts of skeins together care should be taken to tie with binding 
yarn that will not break too easily, making knots that will not untie, 
at the same time tieing loosely that the dyer may easily slip the 
binding yarn several times while in the kettles (necessary to get 
some colors even on the skein). The binding yarn used to tie 
several skeins together should be stronger still and tied more 
loosely ; the dyer must lift this yarn by these ties several times while 
the yarn is very wet and consequently heavy. It is well to have 
two distinct kinds of binding yarn for these two purposes. The 
ends of knots should not be longer than one inch on the binding 
yarn. When the skeins must be taken apart, it is a loss of time if 
the binding yarn is so strong that it cannot be readily broken by 
the operative. 

Dye-house Reels are in many instances clumsy, inconvenient con- 
trivances, some driven by hand, others by belts and only here and 
there as they ought to be by shafting and clutches. A man to turn 
the reel is very expensive power. The reels should be almost 
round if goods are injured by bar marks in draining. The writer 
has seen, in one dye-house, drums two feet in diameter ; they were 
so arranged as to be turned at slow or high speed in either direction 
by simply throwing in a different clutch. The slow speed was used 
for winding up and passing the goods through the liquor, the quick 
motion was applied when the goods were upon the reel after the 
dyeing process was finished. Before starting the high speed a sort 
of cap or screen was dropped over the reel ; the rapid revolution of 
the reel extracted the dye liquor in the goods, the screen was so 
arranged as to keep it from flying about the room and cause it to 
drip into the kettle. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 45 

Repellants. — This class of goods was at one time known as 
Water-Proof Cloaking. Very few pieces sold as such, however, 
were water-proof. Cotton warp and woolen filling are the materials 
used. From 3600 to 5600 threads in the warp and from two-run to 
seven-run filling are the limits within which the writer has made a 
large variety of these goods. The size of cotton warp and the tex- 
ture are varied to suit the demands of the market, varying very 
much in weight and the amount of cotton to be shown on the face. 
In using low stock for filling great care must be taken to keep with- 
in due bounds, or tender goods will be the result. We give four of 
the most common textures : 



4DDD* 


4DDD* 


5DDDD* 


6nnnnn* 


3DD*D 


3D*nn 


4D*nnn 


snn^nnD 


2D*DD 


2nn*n 


3DDD*n 


4nnnn*n 


!*□□□ 


i*DDD 


2*nnDn 


3D*nnnn 


1234 


1234 


iDD*DD 


2nnn*DD 






123456 


i*DDDDD 
1 2 3 4 5 6 



As regards the finish of these goods, we would say, full thor- 
oughly, as quickly as possible, without allowing the goods to get 
very warm ; heat and soap permanently fix the stain upon cotton 
which comes from the colors of the filling. To get a good mill nap 
some finishers gigg lightly before fulling, but it must be done very 
evenly and with great care or the goods will be tender. If the cot- 
ton must not be very white the goods may be steamed or boiled. 

Ribbons. — "The original meaning of the word ribbon is a long 
web of silk, worn for ornament or use. Ribbons of linen, worsted, 
gold or silver thread were formerly included in the term." Ribbon 
in French is ruban ; in German and Swedish, band j Danish, baand. 
Silk was early wrought into ribbons, and for centuries one web was 
made at a time ; great numbers may now be made at the same time 
in the same loom. The shuttle of the ribbon loom is not thrown, 
but is governed by positive motion. It is in this particular method 
of the shuttle motion and the other necessary arrangements for nar- 
row webs that the loom differs from others. 

Ribs — Narrow raised stripes in fabrics are called ribs. Some- 
times wide ones also, but the proper application of the term is to 
small or narrow effects of this kind. 

Roving or Roping. — The untwisted strand of fiber ready for the 

spinning machine. All strands in machinery before that producing 

roving are called slivers, slubbing, rolls, etc., etc. Some rovings 

are not twisted at all, while others must have considerable twist. 

10 



I46 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

This difference is due altogether to the kind of machinery used, and 
the variations in amount of twist to the kind and condition of the 
stock in hand. The size of the roving is almost always larger than 
the thread to which it is to be spun ; the difference is also con- 
trolled by the machinery, kind and condition of the staple. 

Rubbers. — The condensing rolls on a card. Rubber springs on 
many machines. The kinds of rubber needed by the designer are : 
First, a piece of pure gum; second, some sponge rubber; other 
kinds for erasing may be added for special work. 

Rules. — Yam Calculations: To find the quantity of yarn 
required for a warp, in runs — 

(a) Multiply the number of ends by the length in yards and 
divide by 1600. 

Example. — 3,200 ends X 300 yards = o6o,ooo yards-M6oo yards = 
600 runs. 

(0) Multiply the number of biers by the length in yards and 
divide by 40. 

Example.— 80 biers x 300 yards = 24,000-^-40=600 runs. 

To find the size of a woolen thread when composed of several 
minor threads — the size numbers of the single threads being known. 

(a) Divide the product of the size numbers by their sum. 

Example. — A 2-run and 3-run thread being twisted together, 
what is the size of the two-fold yarn ? 

2 x 3-^2+3 = 6-7-5=1-} runs. 

Example. — A 2-run, 4-run and 6-run thread being twisted 
together, what is the size of the three-fold yarns ? 
2 x 4-=-2 +4=8-j-6 =i§ Runs. 
if X6-Mf + 6=8-f-7f=i J T Runs. 
(0) Find the actual weight of the several single threads per yard 
in grains ; divide 7000 by their sum to find the yards per pound. 
Divide the yards per pound by the number of yards per pound of 
No. 1 yarn ; the quotient will be the correct size. 
Example. — 2-run and 3-run together. 

A 2-run thread weighs 2^0 of an ounce per yard. 

a u « (i _x_ " " " 

o 300 

2&0 + 300=6 ounce per yard. 7000 -+-§-=8400 yards per pound. 
8400 -T-i 600=5 £ Runs, or 8400-7-840=1^0. 10 (Cotton.) 
To ascertain the number of threads in a warp, the number per 
inch in finished goods being known, multiply the threads per inch 
by the number representing the finished width in inches. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 147 

To ascertain the quantity of each kind of yarn in a warp, the 
length, number of ends per warp, and the threads in each pattern 
being known, add the number of threads of each kind of yarn per 
pattern together; the sum will be the total number of threads per 
pattern. Divide the total number of ends in warp by the ends per 
pattern ; the quotient will show the number of patterns per warp. 
Multiply the number of each kind of threads per pattern by the 
number of patterns per warp ; the several products will show the 
ends of each kind of yarn per warp. Multiply the ends of each 
kind of yarn per warp by the length of the warp in yards ; the sev- 
eral products will show the yards of yarn required of each kind. 
To ascertain the quantity of filling required for one yard of cloth, 
multiply the threads or picks per inch by the number of inches 
representing the width of the goods ; the product is the quantity of 
filling required in yards.* 

Reed Calculations .—The threads per warp and threads per inch 
being known, find the width by dividing the total number of threads 
by the threads per inch. 

The threads per warp and the width being known, find the threads 
per inch, by dividing the threads per warp by the width in inches. 

The threads per inch and width being known, find the total num- 
ber of threads by multiplying the two known quantities. 

When the threads per dent are regular, to find the threads per inch, 
multiply the threads per dent by the dents per inch. 

When the threads per dent vary, find the average number of 
threads per dent, and proceed as above. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch when the warp is 
reeded as follows in a No. 15 Reed : 

2, 4, 4, 2, 3, per dent, (making 5 dents per set.) 

2+4 + 4 + 2+3=15-7-5=3 threads for the average. 

3X 15=45 threads per inch. 

It frequently happens that the average number of threads in- 
cludes an inconvenient fraction ; to avoid one calculation with this 
fraction, multiply the sum of the contents of the dents, by the dents 
per inch, and then divide by the dents per set. 

* Note. — The shrinkage of the goods must always be borne in mind, and in- 
cluded in estimates. Allowances for " take-up " of yarn in weaving, waste, etc., 
must be taken into account. Arbitrary rules in relation to these allowances are 
of little use ; there is much variation in different mills and under different circum- 
stances. The convenience of minute records on such subjects is apparent. 



I48 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch when the warp is 
reeded as follows in a No. 15 Reed : 

3, 4, 4, 3, 3, per dent, (making 5 dents per set.) 
3 + 4 + 4 + 3 + 3=17 X 15=255-5-5=51 threads per inch. 

To Estimate the number of Heddles required upon each Harness. — 
Multiply the number of threads on each harness per pattern by the 
number of patterns in the entire warp. Example — Warp, 4,800 
threads. Drawing in draft reads as follows : 

1 2 3 4 — — 7 8 — — — — 

— — 3 4___ — — — 1112 

1 2 — — — 6 — — 9 10 — — 
1 23456789 10 11 12 

No. of Th'ds per Patterns 

Harness. Patterns. per Warp. 

i 3 x 160 = 480 

2... 3 x 160 = 480 

3 3 x 160 = 480 

4 3 x 160 = 480 

5 2 x 160 = 320 

6 2 x 160 = 320 

7.. 2 x 160 = 320 

8 .. 2 x 160 = 320 

9 3 x 160 = 480 

10 .. 3 x 160 = 480 

11 2 x 160 = 320 

12 .. 2 x 160 = 320 

Total Threads ._ 30 4800 

When the drawing-in draft is very irregular this method is con- 
venient because so easily proved. 



S. 



Samples. — It is highly important that every factory preserve 
samples of all the kinds and variations of goods made, also samples 
of the stock, yarn or colors which cause the variations, with lucid 
records. If it is important for the factories, it is doubly so for man- 
agers, designers and overseers. Sample books are perhaps not to be 
depended upon as evidence of much knowledge, however well 
filled ; but they may show an extensive experience, and their con- 
dition will indicate many habits of the compiler. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 1 49 

Sample Yarns. — Ashton recommends that a collection of samples, 
accurately numbered, be used for comparison until great familiarity 
with yarns makes them unnecessary ; he advises washed yarns only. 
The better way is to take a liberal portion of the samples of each 
size, wash it thoroughly, when dry (let the skein hang loose while 
drying) label it with the numbers, showing the then actual weight 
and size, by all the most common systems of numbering ; to the 
clean skein tie the remainder of the skein of raw yarn, similarly 
labeled. If then the raw yarn is numbered by the spinner, and the 
washed yarn is renumbered after shrinkage, the comparative shrink- 
age of different sizes will also be exhibited by the difference in 
marks upon the labels, clean and raw. Other comparative memo- 
randums may be attached, all of which is little trouble. The bene- 
fit in return is inestimable. 

Sanders or Saunders. — This is the wood of a tree grown in 
the East Indies. Is harder and more resinous than Barwood or 
Camwood, but considered by many as a species of Barwood. As- 
tringents such as sumach, galls, etc., help to extract the coloring 
matter. Alcohol will extract it entirely. This wood requires more 
boiling than any other dyewood to extract the color. 

Satin. — Real satin is a silk fabric in which the warp is allowed 
to float over the filling in a manner covering it entirely and present- 
ing a smooth, lustrous face. 

Satinets. — Are part woolen fabrics, in which the face shows 
only the woolen filling, the cotton warp being less prominent or out 
of sight. A good satinet is a very serviceable piece of goods, and 
many a workman would be content with a satinet suit if well made ; 
but few satinets can now be produced without the introduction of 
an excessive amount of short staple, the ruling market prices being 
so low. 

Satinettes. — A cheap imitation satin. 

Scouring. — Scouring implies a more severe treatment than wash- 
ing. Scouring wool and woolen goods is an exceedingly important 
branch of woolen manufactures ; besides requiring, on the part of 
those in charge, a thorough knowledge of chemistry, as far as applica- 
ble, it also demands a wide experience. The water should be 
analyzed, the nature of the chemicals used and their action upon 
the material and impurities thoroughly understood. 

Selisia. — A cotton fabric quite firm, with a gloss finish upon the 
face side, used for lining. 



150 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Selvages. — The selvage is a narrow band woven on the edges or 
sides of goods, and, in some way, made to ornament rather than 
detract from the general appearance of the piece when right and as 
they ought to be. To neglect this is quite common among opera- 
tives; for this there is the excuse of ignorance of the importance of 
selvages, but there is no excuse for those who have had better 
advantages to observe the benefit of handsome effects. Handsome 
because clean, clear, perfect and in proper contrast of colors or 
fabric or both. The selvages must endure more chafing from the 
shuttle and reed than the body yarn, consequently, they should 
always be made of yarn a little stronger than that used in the main 
fabric, unless there is special and good reason for the contrary. 
Selvages are made long and short, etc., for the same reason as the 
edges (which see), but all troubles of this kind are usually worse in 
selvage than further in. There is another cause for long and short 
selvages, which is independent of the body goods, and that is the 
difference of texture between selvage and cloth adjoining, which will 
occasionally make the warp and selvage yarn take up differently. 
It is sometimes necessary to weave two or more widths in one loom, 
in which case it will be necessary to bind the outside selvage 
threads where two selvages adjoin, or the selvage will ravel out 
easily. This is done by means of a pair of lace heddles for each 
inside selvage. Selvages should be neat and show good taste. 
Ugly selvages on a good piece of cloth may be compared to an old 
hat and boots on a person otherwise well dressed. 

Sets. — Certain complements of machinery or parts thereof, 
threads, patterns, etc., etc. The " set " of cards includes all the 
cards through which the same stock must pass to complete the pro- 
cess. For woolen carding three cards, differing only in the manner 
of entering and delivering, size of wire and speed of certain parts, 
complete the most common set. In worsted cards or scribblers the 
several cylinders are usually all combined by one frame, thus 
making one machine of what at one time were separate parts of a 
set. The number of cards in a cotton set vary very much. (See 
Sett.) 

Sett. — A term used in England " to indicate the pitch or the 
fineness, or the distance apart of the warp threads as they are 
separated or distributed over the fabric by the reed. By the Lock- 
port system the sett is indicated by the number of reeds or splits 
per inch ; and the number of ends through each split is understood 
to be two, unless when otherwise expressed; consequently what 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 5 I 

would be termed a thirty sett would represent 60 ends per inch. 
The great variety of setts used in England is well set forth in the 
following quotation from Thomas R. Ashenhurst : 

" If we leave Stockport and take what is known as the Manchester 
and Bolton system we have something totally different. By this 
system what is termed the sett is the number of Beers of 40 ends 
each in 24^ inches. If we leave Lancashire and enter Yorkshire 
we find different systems again in use. At Huddersfield the old 
sett system was based upon the number of Beers of 38 ends each 
in 30 inches, but I understand many of the firms have abandoned 
this and adopted the reeds per inch as their sett. If we go from 
Huddersfield to Holmfirth, a distance of some six or seven miles, 
we find their system is based upon 10 ends per foot, so that if there 
are twenty times ten ends, or assuming two ends in each split, 
twenty times five reeds in one foot, it would be termed a twenty 
sett, or if reduced to the same system as the others it would be the 
number of Beers of 40 ends each in 48 inches. If we take other 
woolen districts we shall find the calculation based upon the num- 
ber of Portits, Porties, or Porters, as they are variously known, in a 
given number of inches (the Portit and the Beer are the same thing 
known by the different names in different districts.) The Portits, 
as well as Beers, are variable quantities according to the custom of 
the district, and the number of inches which is taken as the basis 
is different also in each district. If we leave the woolen district 
and come into the Bradford worsted district, we find the sett system 
based upon the number of beers of 40 ends each in 36 inches. In 
Scotland the sett is reckoned by the number of reeds in 37 inches, 
thus if there are 1200 reeds in 37 inches it would be called a twelve 
hundred reed, and there are always two ends through each split un- 
less otherwise expressed, consequently a twelve hundred set means 
2400 ends in 37 inches. In some of the silk manufacturing dis- 
tricts the sett is indicated by the number of reeds in the width of 
the piece, and the ends through each split stated at the same time; 
thus there may be 1200 reeds in 18 inches, and eight threads in 
each split. It would then be called twelve hundred eight thread, 
eighteen inches ; or if the piece was 24 inches wide it might still be 
a twelve hundred eight thread: But in the one case there would be 
66f splits per inch or 533^ ends per inch, and in the other case 
there would be 50 splits or 400 ends per inch. I have enumerated 
only a few of the systems in use ; it would not be very difficult to 
increase the list considerably, but those I have named will be 
sufficiently representative for our purpose. To convey a little more 



152 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

clearly to your minds what these different systems represent I will 
make a few comparisons. Most people engaged in the Bradford 
manufacturing trade are familiar with the term 60 sett. 

By Bradford system 60 sett represents 66f ends per inch. 
" Stockport " 60 " " 120 

" Huddersfield " 60 " " 76 

" Holmfirth " 60 " " 50 

" Bolton " 60 " < " 9 8f4 " 

Or to enable me to include the Scotch and silk trades in the 
comparison, I will take a Bradford 60 sett and I find it will be 
equal to Bolton 4°t 5 2 

Stockport 33^ 

Huddersfield 52 on the old system. 

Huddersfield 33-g- on the new system. 

Holmfirth 80 

Scotch 1233^ 

Silk 800 two thread 24 inches." 

Shed. — The separation or opening in the warp threads on the 
loom, made by means of the harnesses or the jacquard machine for 
the shuttle to pass through, at the same time leaving a thread in the 
shed which is beaten up to the cloth by the lathe. The shed is 
then changed for the next passage of the shuttle ; each such passage 
is called a pick. Upon the correct timing of the opening and clos- 
ing of the shed, upon a perfect, clear, neither too high or too low, 
too tight or too loose a shed much depends. Open the shed too 
late or close it too early the shuttle is more or less obstructed in its 
passage. The evil may be so bad as to throw the shuttle out, or 
only to make the warp go bad at the sides, but to whatever degree 
this evil exists, rough and imperfect edges in the goods is a sure con- 
sequence. Too high or too low a shed is often the result of heed- 
lessness in starting a warp, sometimes the loom fixer tinkers with 
the shed motion to make the shuttle behave, when the trouble is in 
the picking or box motion, which must be timed correctly as well as 
the harness mechanism. Tight or loose sheds are not altogether 
produced by the take-up and let-off motions. If the whip roll and 
breast-beam are both too high, the lower shed will be tight, the 
upper one loose, the contrary position of these two pieces or parts 
will reverse the effect on the shed. When only one of them is out 
of line the evil is not so perceptible in the shed unless there are 
many harnesses, in which case the harnesses near or far away from 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



153 



the part in wrong position will be differently affected, which will 
cause an uneven shed. These are points which prove seriously 
troublesome in some goods, while in others they must be made use 
of to produce the right effect or to humor a warp. 

Shoddy. — Stock which has been recovered from yarn or cloth by 
conversion into staple sufficiently good to spin again. There is a 
great difference in the success of different operators with the same 
stock and machinery. Shoddy is very useful, almost indispensable 
in some kinds of goods ; it will yield a better nap than longer stock. 
Shoddy made of old rags is not good, being lifeless, lustreless and 
cannot give goods the proper character or strength ; it is from ex- 
cessive and fraudulent use of this class of stock that the prejudice 
against shoddy has arisen. Good shoddies may also be used to 
excess, and the goods weakened thereby, but the expert manufac- 
turer discovers the difficulty before the goods are made by the 
reduction of product — a serious matter in American manufacturing. 
Flocks are not shoddy, in the present use of the word. 

Shoddy Pickers. — These are only a variation of the waste 
pickers to adapt them to the more difficult work of unraveling 
cloth instead of yarn. 

Shellac. — " Shellac or lac is a resinous substance which, in 
India, flows from certain trees in the form of lucid tears, in conse- 
quence of punctures made upon their branches by a small insect. 
Shellac is very apt to be adulterated with common resin, and hence, 
unless when a pale lacquer is required, most artisans prefer seed lac. 
When lac is mixed with a little resin and colored with vermillion or 
ivory black it forms sealing wax. Shellac is soluble in alcohol but 
not in turpentine. It is also soluble in alkaline solutions, including 
ammonia. A solution of borax in water dissolves it readily, and the 
resulting solution has been used as a cement, as a varnish, and as a 
basis for indelible ink. It is much used by hatters as an insoluble 
cement." — Workshop Companion. 

Shuttles. — Shuttles are the vehicles for carrying the filling into 
and through the warp shed. Upon the employment of the proper 
shape and weight in shuttles much depends in the running of 
looms. In the particular of quality and kind of wood used in shut- 
tles Europe is far in advance of this country, and American manu- 
facturers suffer not a little, from the false economy exhibited in the 
purchase of cheap shuttles. 

Silk Mixtures. — Any fabric in part made of silk may properly 



154 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

be called a silk mixture ; but the goods known by this trade name 
are cassimeres wherein fine lines or dots are produced by the intro- 
duction of a small percentage of silk threads, with or without twist- 
ing the silk with a woolen thread. Silk mixtures cannot be fulled 
so much as some other goods, and should be cautiously cleared on 
the gigg, not depending upon the shear for anything but to shorten 
or cut off the nap. 

Sizing. — Sizing upon goods and yarn are applied for various 
purposes. In goods to give weight, to afford a proper base for 
printing, on some worsted fabrics, for a preparation to subsequent 
cleansing, etc. On yarn to weight it, to fit it for the wear and tear 
it must be subjected to in weaving, etc. Many recipes for sizing 
may be found in works on Warping in the " Queries and Replies," 
Webb's "Warp Sizing," Dick's " Encyclopedia of Practical Recipes," 
&c. 

Soap. — The manufacture of soap for use in factories is a branch 
of no little moment ; the opportunities to deceive are so great that 
the most unscrupulous practices are common, so much so that it 
behooves manufacturers to trust to no recommendation except 
extensive tests and trials under the most careful supervision in their 
own works. We give a common formula for a cheap oil soap that 
may be varied to suit many kinds of work. This in particular, 
because it is a soap that may be made and used in many factories : 

For 6 barrels of red oil fulling soap, 50 pounds of soda ash, 6 
pounds of rosin, 36 pounds of saponified red oil ; water to boil be- 
fore putting in soda ash, then rosin, then oil. Boil four hours. For 
scouring soap same as above, except 60 pounds of soda ash, 6 pounds 
of rosin, 14 pounds of saponified red oil. The more oil the heavier 
body of soap. Some boil in one-third of the water, and add balance 
when nearly done. 

Spinning. — Of spinning little more can be said than of carding. 
The subject is at this time being very extensively discussed in 
journals devoted to manufacturing interests. The consideration 
thereof is therefore deferred for the time when a revised and en- 
larged edition of this work will permit a thorough and exhaustive 
treatise. 

Splits. — The dents in a reed are called splits quite as often and 
commonly as dents. 

Spontaneous Combustion. — The frequent recurrence of fires 
from this cause has led to many theories and some scientific in- 
vestigations of the subject. Clean, dry stock of any kind seldom 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 55 

ignites ; but, as the use of oils and dyes are indispensable about a 
factory, the greatest caution is not always sufficient to avoid this 
danger. 

Spooling. — Spooling yarn implies that the yarn or stock is being 
put upon spools. In the carding room the sliver is sometimes taken 
from one card in coils, a number of which are put upon a large 
spool, from which the stock passes into the next card ; this or any 
other process of spooling sliver or drawings in carding and spinning 
is being rapidly superseded by more convenient methods of trans- 
ferring the stock. Yarn is spooled in many different ways according 
to the purpose for which it is done. There is spooling from the 
skein, from bobbins, or from spools. There are machines for 
putting one thread upon each spool, yet others for 20 to 120. On 
machines of this latter kind there is usually a measuring device that 
the exact quantity upon the spool may be known or regulated. 
Upon even and careful spooling the subsequent process of warping 
is very dependent for good results. The process seems simple, but 
it is so important that the common practice of placing it in charge 
of ordinary ability causes a greater loss in waste than is gained in 
wages. 

Spools. — This term now implies a barrel and two heads ; the 
variety of spools is legion, and for each kind there are many ways 
of making and fastening the heads. The most durable are the 
best, provided the wood is such as to wear smooth. Too much 
economy in bobbins and spools costs many mills more than the 
price of a full set every year. The principle that by keeping the 
factory in want of bobbins is the best method to keep down the 
surplus stock, may deceive some, but they had better apply more 
beneficial methods, and produce the result in a less costly manner, 
if it must be done, which is altogether a question relative to the 
character of the surplus. 

Stop Motions for Looms. —These are devices for stopping the 
loom when a shuttle fails to reach its box; others when the filling 
breaks or runs out, and yet others when a warp thread breaks. 
The first are now on all power looms in some form. The second 
are quite common for plain looms, and being introduced for fancy 
looms. These stop motions are both expensive and not always a 
saving, since they have been known to do much damage by marking 
the goods; this is, however, owing to a failing in adjustment of the 
feelers, or the peculiar kind of goods woven. They must be well 
understood to prove satisfactory. The warp stop motions are not 



I56 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

yet adopted in general use, the mechanism required being so deli- 
cate and complicated that the device will serve better as a curiosity 
than anything else. Notwithstanding this fact, however, the in- 
ventors have displayed an unusual amount of perseverance and 
ingenuity. 

Strippers. — The small cylinders upon the carding machines 
which strip the stock from the workers. This name is also applied 
to other devices for the same work, to the persons who clean cards, 
to the hand cards used in cleaning, etc., etc. The last-mentioned 
are made in many ways ; what is called the English pitch is much 
preferred by most carders now, but some have become prejudiced 
against the English pitch on account of failures in American imita- 
tions, the leather used being poor or the bend in the wire being in- 
correct. 

Stripping Cards. — To unclog the teeth it is not enough to rub 
the hand card over the roller, for evidently we should only injure 
the te.eth without reaching all the wool kept in the card clothing. 
The hand card is taken in the hand, the teeth nearest the handle 
placed upon the teeth of the roller, and the wool pricked by raising 
the head of the card ; a slight motion is then given it, which draws 
out the wool. After having stripped all the cylinders of the breaker, 
they are treated with emery and finishing cloths. For stripping the 
teeth of a fancy, a comb with steel needles has been successfully 
used. 

Sumach. — A native plant of Syria, now cultivated in many other 
parts, notably in Spain, Italy, Portugal and Sicily. It is brought to 
market in a powdered state. The odor, when a decoction of it is 
boiling, is not unlike that of good tea; the color, fawn drab; acids 
make it more yellow, and the alkalies more brown, or toward 
orange. Ground Sumach contains about one-sixth of its own weight 
of tannin. 



Tables. — The use of tables is to save time and labor ; there are 
unlimited opportunities of increasing their number and the useful- 
ness of many extant. Several pages of this work are devoted to 
tables in daily need by many. They are not so elaborate as some, 
but on the other hand they are simple, convenient, accurate and 
large enough for many purposes. Lawson's reed table is more 
complete in detail than those herein contained, and is in the form 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 57 

of a sheet which may be framed or mounted, a feature desirable in 
some instances ; indeed, some prefer this form to those found in 
books because the entire table is in full view ; on the other hand, it 
cannot be used so conveniently in combination with other tables or 
stored away as a book may be. Some of the tables are also to be 
found in other forms elsewhere, but the table of the capacity of 
looms is new, and when well understood will be in constant use. 

Tapestry. — Tapestry is an ornamental figured textile fabric of 
worsted or silk for lining the walls of apartments ; the term also 
includes carpets and other fabrics, for household decorations. 
The manufacture of tapestry, such as carpets, oil-cloths and lace, is 
localized in peculiar districts in a remarkable manner. Kidder- 
minster, Wilton, Glasgow and Halifax contain extensive factories 
solely engaged in the production of the various descriptions of car- 
pets in ordinary domestic use. The application of the power loom 
to the carpet manufacture is recent, and its use is extending. 
There are a great variety of combinations of materials, many of 
which indicate a remarkable departure from the ordinary method of 
manufacturing carpets and similar objects. One of these is a 
species of mosaic tapestry, where the cut wool is fixed to a ground 
or foundation of caoutchouc. 

Tappets. — Changeable cams used on looms for various purposes, 
the tappets for the box and harness motions being the most com- 
mon. When the cams are fixed so that no others can be con- 
veniently put in their place the looms are commonly called cam 
looms. When the cams are changeable they are called tappets, and 
consequently the loom a tappet loom. 

Teasing, Teaseling, Teaselling or Teasel. — The Scotch and 
English use this word for the operation here called gigging. This 
accounts for the name of teasels. 

Teasels. — "[A-S., tcesel, tassel, the fuller's herb ; O. H. Ger., 
zeilala, id.] [Written also tassel, tazel, teasle and teazle.] 

1. (Bot.) A plant of the genus depsacus, of which one species 
(D. fullonum) bears a large burr or flower head covered with stiff, 
prickly-hooked awns or bracts, which, when dried, is used for rais- 
ing a nap on woolen cloth. 

2. The burr of the plant. 

3. Any contrivance intended as a substitute for teasels in dressing 
cloth." — Webster's Dictionary. 

For further particulars of using and setting, see gigging. 



158 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Teasers. — English and Scotch for giggs, for the people who 
operate them, and in some sections for wool pickers also. 

Temples. — If a weaver understands setting them up, and attends 
to it faithfully, the old-fashioned bar temples will do most excellent 
work. But weavers are not disposed to be bothered with temples 
if any automatic contrivance will do the work. The rapidity of 
power looms makes it difficult for a weaver to see imperfections on 
the small space of goods between the bar temples and the shed. 
There can be no worse temple for any kind of goods than a pair of 
dilapidated hooks connected by a miserable strap, 40 or 50 pounds 
of old castings, said strap running down over the end of the breast- 
beam with nothing better to keep it in its place than the groove it 
has worn. To have 4 or 6 hooks in the end of a strap, 2 to 3 inches 
wide next to the cloth, about three-eighths ,of an inch wide, from 
within 4 inches of the cloth to the weights, running over a pulley as 
near the lathe as possible, and at least two feet from the cloth ; 
weights which will answer to draw the cloth to its proper width, 
but occupying little space as possible, and treadles to lift and let 
them down gradually when setting, may all help to make this class 
of temples answer, but at best they are not perfection. An auto- 
matic temple is wanted, which will do all kinds of work, require little 
repair and be easily adjusted. The nearest approach to a perfect 
temple that has come to our notice is an English invention ; if we 
should speak of it here as we think, our remarks would read very 
much like an advertisement. There is this about it, however, it is 
somewhat complicated and troubles many weavers at first. A 
little perseverance is needed. 

Temple Marks. — When strap or bar temples are not regularly 
and frequently set, hold the goods too wide or not wide enough, 
draw too much in the direction toward the cloth beam, chafe or tear 
the goods ; or if the goods are slazy, temple marks are pretty cer- 
tain to occur. They show much more on some goods than on 
others, but ought not to exist. After picking out, a weaver sets up 
temples to take up the slack at the sides. A temple mark is an 
almost sure consequence. Automatic temples will mark the goods 
principally by chafing and slipping. The temple needs much 
attention, but when once right it is easily kept there if closely 
watched. 

Tenter Bars. — Notwithstanding all the many ingenious inven- 
tions on the drying machines in use, there are some points in which 
all are yet inferior to the tenter bar, when gotten up and fitted out 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 59 

with the best and latest improvements. The stretching is on no 
machine under such accurate control. Since the introduction of 
Lacy's tenter clothing the edges cannot come from any machine in 
better shape and condition than the bars having this almost in- 
destructible clothing, instead of the old-fashioned tenter hooks. 
The slow process of drying on bars may not be the cheapest as 
regards the cost of labor, but the effect on some goods is worth 
many times the cost of the extra labor. 

Texture. — Texture is a term used to designate the binding or 
interlacing of threads necessary to produce a fabric. Texture does 
not, therefore, mean the fabric, nor yet the yarns whereof it is made, 
but the construction whereby it is made with the yarn. The 
simplest texture requires four threads, two each way, one pair being 
at right angles to the other. By constructing a few of the simplest 
textures with pieces of tape, any one who must learn the nature of 
textures from the very foundation will be much benefited. Pro- 
ceed as follows : Take 4 pieces of tape, each 1 inch long, lay two 
parallel (side by side) upon the table ; call these the warp threads; 
the ends toward you we will suppose to be pointing toward the 
cloth beam ; these should be pasted to a pieces of paper. The 
other ends toward the warp beam ; these are better to be left loose. 
The left hand one, mark No. 1, the other No. 2. You are now 
ready to put in the first pick, which is easily done by slipping one 
of the remaining pieces of tape over the end of warp tape No. 1, 
and under No. 2, next to the paper. The second pick put in at 
the other end, but contrary to the manner of the first ; that is, under 
No. 1 and over No. 2. The result is a fabric of the simplest 
texture possible. But this is not only the simpelst texture, the 
fabric is about as limited in size as in texture. A fabric may con- 
tain more threads each way, in which case they must, of course, be 
longer. The increased number of threads are bound into a larger 
fabric, but the texture remains the same, being simply repeated. 
Let the student prove this and learn several points by the operation. 
Cut 12 pieces of tape, each 3 inches long, paste the ends of 6 
upon a strip of paper 2 inches long by ^ inch wide, so that the 
6 pieces of ^ inch tape (side by side) will have equal spaces 
between them. Upon two other papers paste the other 6 pieces, 3 
on each, leaving about T \ inch space between the pieces of tape ; 
place the paper with 6 pieces next to yourself, the free ends pointing 
away from you, this will again represent the warp. At the right 
hand lay 3 of the filling threads, at the left the other 3. Number 



l6o SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

the warp threads, from the left, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ; the filling threads 
number alternately, the nearest left hand No. 1, the nearest right 
hand one No. 2, the next left hand one No. 3, and so on. Now 
enter No. 1 filling thread, over No. 1 warp thread, under 2, over 
3, under 4, over 5, under 6, next to the paper. From the other side 
enter filling thread No. 2, next to No. 1, over warp thread No. 6, 
under 5, over 4, under 3, over 2, under 1. Filling thread No. 3 
enter like the first next to No. 2, No. 4 like No. 2, No. 5 like No. 1 
again, No. 6 like No. 2. This constitutes a fabric with three repeti- 
tions of the texture each way, technically speaking three " repeats" 
each way ; and it has been constructed just as the loom must do it 
in principle. The loom is more practical with its contrivances, 
having mechanism for lifting all thread simultaneously, another for 
passing a shuttle through the opening between the raised threads 
and those left down, said shuttle carrying with it a coil, or bobbin of 
filling in such a way as to leave a thread behind it, in the said open- 
ing, properly called shed. To represent the shuttle coming from 
each side, alternately, the tapes have been entered from both sides, 
to keep the tapes in their proper order it has been necessary to 
fasten the ends ; in the loom this is done by the heddles and reed. 
The heddles lift and lower the warp threads, and the reed beside 
keeping the yarn evenly spread next to the cloth, is brought up 
against the cloth after each pick has been entered, which forces the 
filling threads together. The construction of the simplest texture 
being understood, the application of the principle to produce large 
fabrics by many repetitions of the pattern or single textures being 
comprehended, the student is prepared to proceed to other tex- 
tures. The same tapes will answer for many ; longer ones, and more 
of them may be prepared in a similar manner, or the frames made 
for the purpose purchased with instructions or made from the fol- 
lowing description : A frame something like the frame of a slate in 
appearance has tapes stretched one way, as close together as con- 
venient, in number according to the size of frame — 12 inches will 
admit about 40. The filling tapes are fastened by one end at the 
sides. These frames are very convenient, and can be made or pur- 
chased without much trouble. The next step is to represent tex- 
tures on paper ; this is quite simple after a little practice with the 
tape. Take quadrilled design paper ; the rows of squares up and 
down, as the paper lays before the student, represent warp threads. 
The lines of squares, horizontally, represent filling threads. Since 
fabrics are made up of repetitions of the texture, and the loom 
duplicates the application of it to the threads, it is necessary to rep- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



161 



resent a texture only once on the paper, such representation forms 
the part of a complete design designated by the term chain draft, 
because by it, the pattern chain is built, whether the chain be of 
paper, wood or iron. In writing a draft, its beginning and ending 
must be the same as if another repetition of the draft were to be 
placed on either side of it. This is necessary because such is 
really the case in the goods, when the directions of a perfect draft 
are carried out by the loom. Below are representations of some of 
the elementary textures; any one of them is a complete chain draft : 



No. i. 



No. 4. 



No. 10. 



No. 17. 



No. 22. 



2*d 


3*DD 


4*DDD 


5*DDDD 


6*d*d*d 


in* 


2D*D 


3D*DD 


4D*DDD 


5*D*D*D 


1 2 


iDD* 


2DD*D 


3DD*dd 


4*D*D*D 




123 


iDDD* 


2DDD*n 


3D*d*d* 






1234 


iDDDD* 
12345 


2D*D*D* 

iD*d*d* 




No. 5. 


No. 11. 




123456 




3D** 


4D*** 








2*D* 

i**D 
123 


3*D** 

2**D* 

i***n 


No. 18. 


No. 23. 



No. 2. 

4*D 
3*D 

2D* 

iD* 

1 2 



No. 3. 

io*D 

9*n 

8*D 
7*D 
6*D 
5D* 
4D* 
3D* 
2D* 
iD* 
1 2 



No. 6. 

6*DD 
5D*D 
4DD* 
3*DD 
2DD* 
iD*D 
123 



No. 7. 

6D** 

5*D* 

4**D 
5D** 

2**D 

i*D* 
123 



No. 8. 

6*DD 
5D** 
4**D 
3DD* 

2**D 

iDD* 
1 2 3 



No. 9. 

6 **D 

5 DD* 

4 **D 

3 D** 

2 *DD 

1 D** 
1 2 3 



No. 12. 

4***D 

3D*** 

2**D* 

i*D** 
1234 



No. 13. 

4**DD 
3**DD 
2DD** 
iDD** 
1234 



No. 14. 

4**DD 
3D**D 
2DD** 
i*DD* 
1234 



No. 15. 

4*D*D 
3**DD 
2D*D* 
iDD** 
1234 



No. 16. 

**DD 
D**D 
*DD* 
DD** 
1234 



5D**** 

4*D*** 

3**D** 

2***D* 

i>jc***D 
12345 



No. 19. 

5**DDD 

4D**DD 
3DD**D 
2DDD** 
i*DDD* 
12345 



No. 20. 

5DD*** 
4*DDD* 
3**DD* 
2***DD 
iD***D 
12345 



No. 21. 

5****D 
4**D** 

3D**** 

2***D* 

i*D*** 
12345 



6***DDD 
5***DDD 
4***DDD 
3DDD*** 
2DDD*** 
iDDD*** 
123456 



No. 24. 

6**D*DD 
5***DDD 
4D**OD* 
3DD*D** 
2DDD*** 
i^fDD**D 
1 2 3 4 5 6 



No. 25. 

6*DDD** 
5**DDD* 
4***DDD 
3 D***DD 
2DD***D 
iDDD*** 
123456 



No. 26. 

6*DD**D 
S**D*DD 
4***DDD 
3***DDD 
2D**DD* 
iDD*D** 
123456 



11 



I 62 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

No. i represents the plain texture first illustrated by the experi- 
ments with tape. This texture is called "cotton weave," "sheet 
weaving," " plain cloth " and by many other appellations, the 
derivation of which is almost self-evident. From this base one may 
branch out into many variations. No. 2, for instance, is like No. 1, 
but two lines being alike, the respective picks in weaving will have 
the same shed opened for them, consequently the filling threads will 
be doubled in each shed. This is called weaving with 2 picks in a 
shed. It is done for various effects and purposes. No. 3 is an 
extension of the same idea to 5 picks in a shed, such a chain with 
the proper yarn would produce a fabric called " repp," or " cross 
cord." No. 4 is already an enlargement of the first texture repre- 
sented and cannot be made to look entirely plain because the change 
from thread to thread, of the one harness up, causes a diagonal 
effect. While such effects are small but distinct, they are termed 
twills. No. 4 is then a 3-harness twill. The filling shows much 
more than the warp on the face. Therefore, this is a filling-face 
twill. No. 5 is the same, but because two-thirds of the warp yarn 
passes over the filling it is called a warp-face 3-harness or 3-leaf 
twill. No. 6 is like No. 4 for 3 picks, the other 3 picks being 
really the same texture, but applied in a different order. This is a 
variation of the No. 4 texture which, with some yarns, makes a face 
that appears to be almost plain, therefore, it is sometimes called 
" plain 3-leaf cloth." The same difference is exhibited between 
No. 6 and No. 7 as between No. 4 and No. 5. One being a filling- 
face the other a warp-face. Already the student will have noted 
that to be a filling-face texture the warp threads must go down in 
the larger proportion and vice versa. Such observations give the 
cue to quick comprehension of special characteristics in more 
elaborate texture, and particularly in combinations of textures. 
No. 8 and No. 9 are the first steps at combination. These chain 
drafts combine the texture of No. 1 and No. 4 in No. 8 ; of No. 1 
and No. 5 in No. 9. The student should now examine the texture 
of the individual warp threads or harnesses, also the filling threads 
or picks, and study out the combination principle without aid. 
No. 10 is similar to No. 4, but with one more harness and pick per 
pattern. Were the fifth harness in No. 17 like the first it would be 
the same 4-harness twill as is represented in No. 10, with one thread 
too many. This thread might be the one of another repetition of 
the texture, in which case it would be wrong to have it appear on 
the draft ; but it might for certain effects be desirable to have 5 
threads in the pattern — the first and last to work alike when it 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 63 

would be proper to leave it on the draft, but not really necessary, 
because there is another way of producing the same result, namely : 
to have only 4 harnesses, when the fifth thread is reached in draw- 
ing the threads into the heddles, draw it into a heddle on the first 
harness, then the first one of the next pattern would have to be 
drawn on the first harness also, the second on the second, and so on 
until the fifth is reached again, which is to be placed on the first 
every time, as before. This slight digression will admit a little 
light on the cross draw principle, which is duly considered else- 
where. No. 11 and No. 12 are the same texture, but the order of 
the threads is changed. No. 13 is the same as No. 1, but doubled 
every way. No. 23 is the same, but has 3 threads working alike 
each way. This variety of textures are called "basket weaves," 
probably because the several threads working alike lay side by side 
and give the appearance of narrow strips that have been plaited. 
No. 14 is another 4-harness twill. It is a very common texture, 
often named from the class of goods made with it — " Kersey 
twill," " cassimere weave," "double treadle twill," etc. Nos. 15 
and 16 are the same as No. 14, but the twill is broken by a different 
order of the threads working the same. Broken twills are much 
used for mottled effects. Nos. 24 and 26 are of this order. No. 21 
is also sometimes called a broken twill, but in reality it is a double 
twill. It is commonly called the doeskin weave. It is needless to 
encumber space here with further illustrations ; most complete col- 
lections of textures are procurable. Besides studying such collec- 
tions, the student should give much time and attention to work out 
the principles here illustrated in larger effects, with more harnesses, 
without aid, and when such a task is completed compare notes with 
some one or with the same thing as given in some of the collections 
referred to. So far the textures considered have all been single. 
Combinations may be called compound fabrics, if a name must be 
produced. Double fabrics are such as have two textures, one above 
the other. Triple fabrics are the same, with three textures. In 
this class the textures may be separate, here and there tacked to- 
gether, or so incorporated in each as to be one solid mass or inter- 
changeable in their appearance in either by parts. In taking up 
double textures only the simplest kinds are illustrated here, elaborate 
designs of this kind must not be attempted until the principles and 
elements underlying them are fully comprehended. When this 
point is reached a large collection is of more use than a few 
examples, and more could not be given here. We begin again with 
texture No. 1 by doubling it. No. 27 represents this texture 



164 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

separate ; that is : if this chain were used, the loom would simply 
make two pieces of cloth, one above the other. No. 28 shows one 
way of tacking the two together, this is done by raising the back 
warp (harness No. 2 and harness No. 4) for the face filling shed. The 
addition to the draft to produce this result is in a different charac- 
ter from the others (©) not because it must be different or of particu- 
lar shape or kind, but because it is very convenient always to mark 
this place usually called the " binder" and the threads so used to 
bind fabrics and textures together, called binding threads. In 
No. 29 the two textures are the same, but bound together differ- 
ently. In No. 28 the back warp threads were raised to let a face 
filling thread go under them ; in No. 29 the face warp threads are 
lowered when a back filling thread is going through ; thus it is incor- 
porated into the back fabric, besides doing regular service on the 
face fabric, consequently binding the two together. To be systema- 
tic some designers never call a face thread the binder, always the 
backing thread which helps to make the union. According to this 
in No. 28 the back warp threads would also be binding threads ; in 
No. 29 the back filling threads. The difference between No. 27 
and No. 29 is designated by a cipher (o) in the space which should 
otherwise be a blank square, (□) and must be considered a "sinker." 
It is very common not to bind textures together so frequently, as will 
be seen further on. The principal feature of a double cloth draft 
is, that for the face pick only those harnesses are raised which rep- 
resent threads that must pass over face filling. All the others must 
be let down. This lets down all of the back warp and a part of the 
face warp. When the back pick is to go through all of the face 
warp and some of the back warp must be raised, leaving only such 
threads down as must pass under the respective back pick. Back- 
ing is sometimes attached not as a separate fabric, but as backing 
only, (for instructions see Backing.) No. 30 is a double cloth 
with the same twill on back and face as texture No. 14. No. 31 is 
the same as No. 30, but shows one of the many ways of attaching 
the two fabrics to each other. No. 32 is the same as No. 27, but by 
a different arrangement the binding is regular and one which is 
usually very safe because not so close as Nos. 28 or 29, and not 
showing through so badly. It also does away with the little dimple 
other bindings make in some fabrics. The back and face texture 
are not always alike, neither is the yarn always the same. No. 33 
illustrates a double texture of this kind, the face being like texture 
No. 25, a plain 6-harness twill, the back like No. 5, a plain 3-harness 
twill filling back. The warp face of the back fabric being under 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



165 



the face fabric. The density of the threads also differs in this, 
there being two face threads to each back thread. In such fabrics 
it is customary to use fine yarns in the face fabric, coarser in the 
back fabric. No. 34 illustrates that the double cloth texture need 
not be confined to twills but can be applied to any texture. The 
fact that more harnesses being required for double than for single 
textures must be borne in mind. No. 34 is a basket face and a 
broken twill back. Note that the binding is done in both ways in 
this draft : 

No. 30. No. 33. 



No. 27. 


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No. 31. 


No. 34. 


No. 28. 


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No. 32. 


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No. 29. 


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Many of the more elaborate designs can be produced by a com- 
bination of several textures. Notably ingrain carpet, two-ply and 
three-ply. In such goods the yarn, when not required in the face 
fabric, is bound into a texture on the back which at once adds 
firmness, warmth and durability. Other goods are made with a 
face and a back fabric, and any yarn or threads not needed in the 
face or back allowed to float between the two; they are there out of 
sight and the danger of being drawn or pulled in finishing or weav- 
ing. In woolen goods that must be fulled, it will not do to allow 
these floats to be too long or many, as they roll together and make 
uneven thickness in shrinking. 



1 66 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

The characters used in the foregoing drafts are : 

* and © for raisers, n and • for sinkers. 

Tickings. — A heavy cotton fabric, most commonly blue and 
white checks or stripes, and a warp twill texture. 

Ties. — This word has many erroneous applications. It is used 
by some in place of fabrics, the arrangement of harnesses, com- 
pound fabrics, etc. The proper use for the word is now generally 
acknowledged to be limited to the manner or peculiar ways of fas- 
tening several fabrics together into one, when this is done with a 
special arrangement of the threads for the purpose. The manner 
of tying the back and face together is illustrated by Texture 
Drafts Nos. 23 to 35. The manner of making double and triple 
cloth, and having the yarn interchange in the several fabrics, is 
also exemplified. 

Thread-Bare. — A name for the finish on goods which leaves no 
nap. 

Throstle Frame. — For cotton the frame in its transverse section 
is similar to the throstle frame used for combed wools. A cylinder, 
bearing the roving, is at the summit of the frame. The roving in 
its descent becomes engaged between two drawing rollers at a 
proper distance apart, and surmounted with top rollers. The 
drawn out roving passes through a fly terminated by a tube, and is 
wound off and twisted by the rotation of a spindle. Each spindle 
receives its motion from a drum placed underneath the frame. 

Tools. — Tools are a great necessity of the present day. Manu- 
facturers are sometimes compelled to be stingy in supplying them, 
because the workmen they employ are either dishonest, careless or 
incapable. It would seem that this would be a good criterion by 
which to judge employees, and we contend that it is; that the best 
and cheapest workmen are those who can be entrusted with good 
tools. But workmen must become accustomed to tools to make the 
best use of them ; if, then, they were to find tools different when- 
ever they changed places their beginning would not be so satisfac- 
tory. Some tools they should own and take with them, and manu- 
facturers should encourage it by replacing tools lost or damaged in 
their service, without a fault on the part of the owner. From the 
designer down to the most common laborer, the best results are at- 
tained at the least cost of material, time and exertion only when the 
best attainable tools are employed by workmen who have sufficient 
intelligence to make good use of them. The following quotation 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, I 67 

from the Boston Journal of Commerce agrees with these remarks 
and cites the same facts in yet another light : 

" There is an old saying to the effect that ' it takes a good work- 
man to make a good job with poor tools.' So it does, and there 
have been many triumphs, recorded and unrecorded, of brain and 
skill over seemingly insurmountable obstacles. It is a satisfaction 
to compass a result with apparently inadequate means, and the 
mechanic who does it is justly proud of his success. But working 
with poor tools is never certain to produce good results, however 
great the skill and inventive the brain. Misses are made as well as 
hits, and even the most self-assured workman feels safer with good 
and applicable tools. No workman can afford to risk his reputation 
and success with poor tools ; there is so much risk of a failure, and 
such anxiety for the result, that even if success is attained it has 
been at the expense of time, thought, muscle and trouble that robs it 
of half its gratification. The time has gone by when the workman 
was expected to ' make something out of nothing,' when one imple- 
ment or appliance was made to do duty for another, and ' make- 
shifts,' their origination, use, and application to the job in hand 
were part of the kit of the workman. Even in hand tools the im- 
provement is obvious to the slightest observation. In every depart- 
ment of industry these improvements have made their mark. They 
have saved time and labor and produce more satisfactory results. It 
is a wise economy to reject imperfect tools, and, as the patent- 
medicine men advertise, ' use the best. Whenever an improved 
implement is put into the market — one that will do the work better 
or quicker, it is economy to buy it, even if the old one is intact and 
serviceable." 

Travelers. — On spinning and twisting frames, short pieces of 
flat steel wire, bent to make almost a complete circle, but the ends 
do not quite meet. They are sprung upon the ring on which they 
travel around the bobbins ; the threads to be spun or twisted passing 
through them on their way to the bobbins, and the tension upon the 
threads being largely governed by the weight or size of the travelers. 

Treatment of Wool Before Carding. — Wool should be 
open and free to scour well ; it is impossible to do justice to wool 
when submitted to scouring in the condition the sorters leave it in. 
Hot or strong scouring liquors are a decided injury to wool, but 
when too weak or too cold, wool is not got clean quick enough, and 
is consequently either scoured improperly or felted. Much hand- 



1 68 spitzli's manual. 

ling while in any liquor felts wool. Sal Soda felts wool more than 
soda ash, soap more than sal soda, yet sal soda and soap must be 
used under certain circumstances. Many men cannot get wool 
through the squeezing rolls of a washing mashine from a perfectly 
clear water. The best temperature for scouring wool either by hand 
or machine is from no° to 130 F. The chemicals used, the 
temperature of liquor and time of saturation should always be 
governed by the kind of wool in hand, and no attempt with a large 
lot should be made until a small sample has been got clean in a 
pail. By this method one soon learns to judge accurately by small 
experiments, a great saving. Tag locks and cotted wool should be 
subjected to a sweating. 

Tweeds. — Twilled woolen fabrics, at one time only those cassi- 
meres with regular four-leaf twill, but now applied to almost any 
twilled goods resembling the original tweeds. English and Scotch 
tweeds differ in stock and character. The English goods of this class 
are usually finer than the Scotch. The finer grades are made of Aus- 
tralian, New Zealand, Cape, Buenos Ayres, Port Natal, German and 
Saxony wools. The coarser kinds or cheviots are made of Scotch, 
Slavonian, Chilian, Transylvanian and Colonial crossbred wools. 
Inferior wools from other countries are also used for this latter class. 
The wools of this country which give the best result in cheviots 
come from Maine. Canada wool does well also. It is necessary to 
spin this coarse stock twice to get it fine enough for many styles. 
Yarn dyed cheviots when the colors are fast enough to full a little, 
resemble the foreign goods much more than goods made of raw 
yarn. Crabbing improves the firmness of many pieces which would 
otherwise seem slazy. As a reliable work on Scotch tweeds that 
written by Robert Johnson may be cheerfully recommended. (The 
name is " Scotch Tweed Designers' Hand-Book.") 

Twills. — Twills are fine diagonals of the plainest kind. Used 
largely in many woolen fabrics, and frequently employed as the 
ground texture of larger designs. In plain woolen goods the finer 
twills are used for light weight goods single, for heavy goods by 
adding a backing. In all materials the proportion, twist and size 
of yarn are important factors in the production of certain appear- 
ances of twills. If the warp and filling are the same size and twist, 
and the threads are equal in number, the filling will usually pre- 
dominate, because it is almost impossible to weave the warp yarn as 
slack as the filling with the best tension devices. The warp yarn is 
generally twisted harder than the filling ; therefore, if of the same 



SttTZLt'S MANUAL. 1 69 

weight, and being woven tighter as well, the warp twill would sink in 
still more. To reverse this, the warp yarn may be made a little coarser 
than the filling, or the number of threads made greater. By making 
the direction of the twist conform to the direction of the twill, 
further effects are attained ; the above statements are all made upon 
the supposition of like twist in both warp and filling, say right 
hand. If such yarn be woven into a twill running to the right, the 
twill will run with the twist of the warp and against the twist of the 
filling, consequently the filling twill will stand out more ; if the 
twill be turned to the left, the warp twill will come up and the fill- 
ing twill sink down. The warp being the hardest yarn, the goods in 
this case will feel softer when the filling predominates, the qualities 
and size of the yarn being the same. By reversing the twist of the 
filling and making it more prominent in that way the goods are 
made still softer, provided the stock in the filling is as fine or finer 
than the warp. For many goods, therefore, it is well to have the 
warp against, and the filling twist with the twill, for others the con- 
trary may be better, and when the warp and filling are of the same 
twist, intermediate effects are produced. 

Twist. — The amount and direction of twist, in yarn, plays an 
important part in fabrics ; in the preparation of a design, in dis- 
secting, and in the general management of a factory it should never 
be lost sight of or overlooked. The word twist is sometimes used 
instead of double and twisted yarn, manifold yarns, etc. In single 
or manifold yarn the evenness of twist is also important, but when 
unevenness of twist appears on the same bobbin it is usually the 
effect of uneveness in the size of the yarn, where it has either been 
strained by too much tension or was never drawn even. The twist 
runs to the finest places first and most. 

Twitts. — Twitts in yarn are fine places that may be caused by 
irregular or excessive drawing. By overdrawing we mean drawing in 
some part of the process more than the stock will endure. Twitts 
may be discovered in yarn by taking a number of bobbins — say ten 
— laying them at one end of a sheet of paper, the color of which is 
a strong contrast to that of the yarn ; draw the threads from the 
bobbins slowly over this sheet of paper, side by side, letting none 
cross others, and having them all about equal distances apart, not 
more than one inch at one end of the sheet, not less than one-six- 
teenth at the other. This is a very severe test for any yarn. 



I 70 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

u. 

Upland Cotton. — A species of sea island cotton produced in 
the inland counties of Virginia, the Carolinas, Georgia, Tennessee, 
Alabama, Louisiana and several other States. It is a light, weak 
and uneven staple. Of the various kinds of cotton, Baird gives ■ 
some ten pages of most useful information. 

Unit of Power. — One-horse power is by some writers given as 
the unit of power. " One-horse power is equal to 75 kilogrammetres." 
(Leroux's work.) Haswell says : " Its estimate is the elevation of 
33,000 pounds avordupois one foot in height in one minute, and is 
nominated as being the nominal, indicated or actual." 

Unsworth Needle Looms — The peculiarity of this loom con- 
sists of two sets of weft carriers and points in lieu of shuttles. The 
principle is employed on fringe looms. 

V. 

Velvet. — Velvet may be made in many ways ; the plush may 
be of silk and the body fabric linen or cotton. When the material 
is all cotton the goods are called velveteen. The fabric, as it 
comes from the loom, before the plush is cut is most commonly 
known by the name of a class of goods of this order : " Fustian." 
The cutting, dressing and finishing processes are clearly described 
by Dr. Ure in his " Dictionary of Arts and Manufactures," from 
which the following and many other paragraphs in this work are 
quoted : " After the fustian cloth is taken from the loom-beam, it 
is carried to the cutter, who rips up the surface threads of weft, and 
produces thereby a hairy-looking stuff. After being thus ripped up, 
it is taken to the brushing or teazeling machine, to make it 
shaggy ; after they are brushed in the machine the goods are 
singed by passing their cut surface over a cylinder of iron, laid in a 
horizontal direction, and kept red hot by a flue. They are now 
brushed again by the machine, and once more passed over the 
singeing surface. The brushing and singeing are repeated a third, 
or even occasionally a fourth time, till the cord acquires a smooth 
polished appearance. The goods are next steeped, washed and 
bleached by immersion in solution of chloride of lime. They are 
then dyed by appropriate chemical means, after which they are 
padded (imbued by the padding machine of calico printers) with a 
solutive of glue, and passed over steam cylinders to stiffen them. 
Smooth fustians, when cropped or shorn before dyeing, are called 



SPITZLt'S MANUAL. Ijl 

moleskins ; but when shorn after being dyed, are called beaverteen : 
they are both tweeled fabrics. Cantoon is a fustian with a fine cord 
visible upon the one side, and a satiny surface of yarns running at 
right angles to the cords upon the other side. The satiny side is 
sometimes smoothed by singeing. The stuff is strong, and has a 
very fine aspect. 

Velvet Finish. — This term means a finish which has a resem- 
blance to velvet. In woolens this finish is frequently required and 
consists of a short, thick nap standing up as straight as possible. 
This effect is produced by gigging almost equally both ways, and 
allowing no subsequent operation to lay down the nap. 



W. 

Warp. — The yarn which passes through the harnesses and reed. 
The character of this yarn should be altogether governed by the 
fabric for which it is to be used ; but the product of a loom largely 
depends upon the strength of the yarn, be the fabric what it may. 
If for any reason the yarn of a warp is not strong enough for the 
work it must endure to produce the right texture, there is often a. 
way open to change the texture slightly to relieve it with less 
damage than that caused by a small product and imperfect goods. 
Much may be done to humor a warp by various changes in the 
loom. When the warp is being woven very tight the opening of the 
shed is an extra strain upon the threads ; if the shed is not at the 
right level this strain will be greatest upon one shed or the other. 
Sizing applied to warp yarn will make it work much better in many 
fabrics. This was at one time done altogether in the loom, but is 
now done by machinery while preparing the warps. 

Warping. — The collection of yarn into a warp is a process seem- 
ingly very simple, but one which has brought out many new de- 
velopments in machinery, and is still very imperfect in some par- 
ticulars. The silk and cotton manufacturers have advanced far 
beyond the woolen in this department. This may be accounted for 
by the fact that no subsequent process with them will hide the 
defects in warping, while in woolen goods the shrinkage and the 
nap have covered and must to-day cover many sins. The manu- 
facturers of worsted goods have of late turned their attention in 
this direction ; and well they may, since nearly all the requirements 
of cotton warps hold good in relation to worsted, and the finish is 



I 72 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

such as can not be depended upon to conceal anything. Even 
tension in all parts of the warp, equal length of all the threads, and 
even dressing when applied, are the three great requisites of warp- 
ing. Other important points will intrude on every hand, but none 
assume the importance of these. In silk and cotton it is now the 
common practice to put the yarn upon separate beams, from the 
small bobbins or spools, then to take alternate threads from these 
beams, from four to twelve in number, for the warp. The 
machinery, especially that for applying the sizing or dressing, and 
for drying the same, is now very perfect. These machines, or modi- 
fications of them, are being introduced for worsted work, and are 
really a necessity. The manner of warping woolen warps is still 
very primitive in many mills, and the best machines in use are 
not what they should be, because manufacturers will not pay the 
price of better ones. A greater folly can hardly be found in the 
entire manufacturing interests than this. The warp being well pre- 
pared, good work and plenty of it is a natural consequence — the 
opposite side is too ridiculous to mention. The necessary remedy 
lies principally in better machinery, (manufacturers should do their 
utmost to stimulate development;) next in more pains and labor 
with what machinery is now in use. In warping for fancy goods 
the number of threads are fixed by two limits — the pattern and the 
weight, both of which must sometimes be modified to bring them 
within present facilities for warping. Whether the warp is made 
from section beams or in sections upon a reel, the first calculation 
necessary is to find the number of threads in each section, and if 
possible make them conform to the threads in a pattern. That is, 
the threads of a section should be a multiple of the threads in a 
pattern. Making several different sized sections, or running one 
straight, the next reversed, (with a twist,) are almost sure methods 
of making section stripes ; the matter of damage is only doubtful 
when there is a question whether the kind of goods happen to show 
them or not. Having found the threads of the sections in con- 
formity to above instructions, the number of patterns per section 
will necessarily be known; the number of threads of each kind of 
yarn per section is now obtained by multiplying the number of each 
kind of threads in a pattern by the number of patterns per section ; 
the total number by multiplying this product by the number of 
sections, and the total amount of each kind of yarn in yards by 
multiplying the last product by the length of the warp in yards. 
To ascertain the weight from the yards, see Yarn Table and Rules. 
For dressing or sizing, see Sizing. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I J ^ 

Waste. — Too much attention cannot be paid to the matter of 
waste in a factory. Not only waste of material, yarn and cloth, but 
time and supplies. The manner of assorting, preserving and pack- 
ing waste is of importance. To keep the waste clean it must be 
kept off the floors as much as possible, what falls to the floor should 
be picked up, not swept along with other sweepings. 

Waste Pickers. — The many machines under this name made to 
pick or ravel waste to recover as much staple fibers as possible from 
refuse yarn, need little comment. The Kitson & Parhurst pickers 
for the purpose are well known, and probably have the lead in the 
market. 

Weaving. — Such elaborate articles on this subject may be found 
in the opening chapters of nearly all books on Weaving and Design- 
ing that it is superfluous to add to or repeat what has been thus 
published at the present writing. 

Weft. — Filling. 

Weights. — The convenience of standard weights of all kinds, as 
well as many special weights, for test weighing and the like, is a sub- 
ject beyond comment. The surest way to get accurate weights is 
to have them made by responsible parties, who are provided with 
the exceedingly sensitive scales necessary to test weights. With 
care and patience very good weights may be made. Baird gives 
instructions (pp. 192) that the amateur in the manufacture of 
weights will do well to heed. 

Willowing. — This process is one that comes under the head of 
separating the staple from refuse matter. It is practised very gen- 
erally by the best woolen mills. The cotton gin serves the best 
purpose for cotton, but has more to do and under greater diffi- 
culties. In further cleansing stock, each kind of textile fiber must 
be treated differently in the early cleansing processes. That which 
interests the most men, because they are engaged in that branch, 
is wool washing and scouring, and perhaps there is no other staple 
so troublesome from the many variations required. 

Winding. — By winding we understand that a process similar to 
that of spooling is implied, but that the receptacle of yarn in this 
case is a bobbin, not a spool. Much that may be said of spooling 
applies here, especially the allusions to precaution ; good work in 
winding is more imperative, because a badly wound bobbin cannot 
be used without loss of time and material, particularly in the shut- 



I 74 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

tie, the most common destination of a bobbin of yarn. In winding 
bobbins great care should be taken to adjust the machinery to form 
the taper to suit the peculiarities of the yarn wound. For instance, 
slippery yarn should have a long taper, tender woolen yarn a short 
one, and in all cases should the guide which forms the taper work 
smoothly and regularly. The tension should be so applied that the 
yarn will draw a little harder when winding next to the wood than 
when at the large end of the taper; few machines will do this, but 
it is a point of great advantage. There should never be a dwell in 
the guide motion, or an irregular traverse, as the yarn will certainly 
come off with irregular tension if this is not attended to. The 
faults of and remedies for over-run, too full, large, hard or soft 
bobbins are obvious. In some parts all spools and bobbins are 
given this one name, but in this country the term bobbin is now 
almost universally applied only to a barrel with one head. Bobbins 
should be made of wood which wears smooth, whatever the first 
cost. Maple is very good. Steaming yarn on the bobbin is very 
destructive of the bobbin, however much it benefits the yarn. Set- 
ting the twist by heating in an oven is quite as bad for wood ; when 
either course is practiced many bobbins are split. Of the shape of 
bobbins little can be said save that the bobbin should be made to 
suit the yarn. Cone bobbins are those which have a cone next to 
the head, because the building motion upon the machines used for 
winding the yarn upon the bobbin requires it; the same require- 
ment usually extends to the shape of the cone. Ribs or depres- 
sions, or creases upon the barrel, prevent the yarn from sliding off 
in a body, but the rib adds considerable friction and consequently 
cannot be used on some kinds of work, the difference in the tension 
of the yarn when beginning to unwind a bobbin, and at the last 
being too great. 

Woad. — The plant (Isates Glastumn or Isastis Tinctoria) when 
made into fermented paste is known as woad. It is a native plant 
of England, its coloring properties having been used by the ancient 
Britons more than 2,000 years ago. It is also cultivated in Europe. 
Its use in the blue vat is very important and requires much skill 
and experience. The nature and application of this substance 
should be studied by all who should understand colors, their nature, 
peculiarities and relations. 

Wool. — Wool, strictly speaking is a cutaneous secretion taking 
place through the epidermic pores of the animal. These pores are 
all of the same diameter, and, at equal intervals upon the epidermis 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



175 



of the same sheep. They vary according to species, and are nar- 
row, straight or tortuous, and, consequently, the wool fibers will be 
fine, smooth or undulating, according to the shape of the pores by 
which they are gauged. Wool, if kept in a well-ventilated place, 
undergoes very little change. Under the influence of heat, wool 
decomposes, giving carbonate of ammonia and much oil. Acids act 
but feebly upon it ; caustic alkalies and their solutions dissolve it 
entirely. Wool is classified and valued by the length of its staple, 
the diameter of its fiber, its suppleness, elasticity and strength. The 
fineness of wool is determined by the number of undulations in a 
given length of staple — a very wavy staple should double its length 
by stretching, and then return to its original dimensions. There 
are two principal sorts of wool, namely : short or carding wool and 
long or combing wool. These two sorts give rise to four very dis- 
tinct classes : 

First — Fleece wool for combing ; 

Second — Fleece wool for carding ; 

Third — Pulled wool (mortling) for combing ; 

Fourth — Pulled wool (mortling) for carding. 

Fleece wool is all that is shorn from the living animal ; and 
pulled wool (pelt wool, mortling), that pulled from the skin of the 
animal after death. The latter is less valuable than the former. 
These two sorts differ in their stoutness and softness. Both are 
generally white, though sometimes black or brown. The skins 
supplying the pulled wool are of two classes : 

First — The skins of animals killed on farms. 

Second — The skins of animals killed in slaughter houses. 

According to its degree of fineness pulled wool is sorted into fine, 
medium and common. This kind of wool, never having reached 
maturity, and, moreover, being weakened and impaired by the lime 
used in stripping the skin, is lighter and weaker than fleece wool. 

Woolens. — The term woolens is used by the trade, and includes 
as a class, all woolen goods for men's wear, flannels, etc., etc. 

Worsted. — The essential difference between worsted and woolen 
yarn is that the former is combed, the long fibers being all laid 
parallel, the short fibers separated and taken away, while in the 
latter the fibers, long and short, must go together, and they cannot 
be so thoroughly straightened out. The reduction of the sliver or 
tops, as it comes from the combs to yarns, is also different from the 
process of spinning woolen yarn. The stock must, of course, be 
suitable to the process, hence the wools that are long and strong 



I j6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

enough to produce good worsted yarns are graded into combing 
and delaine wools. Unless the drawing is done on machines that 
do not twist the slivers, and the spinning on a very long draught 
machine like the mule, the yarn will be hard and wiry, lacking elas- 
ticity. This is the disadvantage the English process in the manu- 
facture of worsted yarns has over the French. Having produced 
the right yarn, the production of the texture is similar to other 
goods, but far more trying to the weaver; because of its costliness, 
the necessity of avoiding the smallest imperfection becomes impera- 
tive, and on account of the peculiarity of the fabrics every imper- 
fection is easily seen. The process of finishing and dyeing worsted 
goods is far more difficult than any one unacquainted with the 
nature of the difficulties can imagine. The treatment of a few 
kinds of worsted fabrics from the loom to the case would be a 
capital subject for a large book. 



X. 

Xerga. — A Spanish name for a peculiar woolen blanket. Our 
common market term, " Serge," is derived from this name. 



Yama-Mai, or Oak Tree Silkworm. — The Yama-mai is a 
species of silkworn common in Japan, which derives its sustenance 
from the leaves of oak trees. 

Yarn. — Any spun thread may be called yarn, but the term in its 
strictest sense implies spun wool. 

Uneven Yarn.— The causes of uneven yarn are numerous and 
varied, the consequences invariably imperfect goods, almost always 
a reduction of product, and much waste. There are a variety of 
terms used to designate the kind of unevenness. What is under- 
stood by uneven yarn, is that caused by uneven stock or roving, 
tight or loose bands, worn drawing rolls, etc., etc. Uneven twist is 
often mistaken for uneven yarn, but by careful weighing one may 
ascertain which it is. The uneven twist when not caused by 
irregular size or tension of spindle bands is usually the effect of 
irregular tension between the roving spool and the yarn bobbin. 
To watch every set of bobbins as they are taken off is an important 
duty that some one who is competent should be entrusted with. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



177 



Twitty yarn may be caused by poor carding and combing, improper 
adjustment of drawing rolls, uneven speed, slipping belts, etc., etc. 
If the stock in the roving is examined frequently there should be no 
difficulty in deciding whether the trouble is in the spinning or 
before. The spinner cannot make good yarn with poor roving or 
machinery which is not adapted to the work. 

Yarn Numbers, or Counts. — The numbers of woolen yarn most 
commonly used in this country are those regulated by the run and 
grain systems. By the run system, No. 1, or i-run yarn, has 1600 
yards per pound ; No. 2^, or 2^-run yarn, has 4000 yards per pound, 
etc., etc. This is very convenient, because so easily estimated per 
ounce, each number representing the number of times 100 yards 
are needed to weigh an ounce. The grain system of numbering 
woolen yarn is quite different, the most common measure or basis 
being 20 yards. Whatever 20 yards of any kind of yarn weighs in 
grains is the number given by this system. If 20 yards of any yarn 
weighs 13 grains, it is called 13 grain or No. 13 yarn ; if the same 
measure weighs 30 grains, then the yarn is designated as 30 grain 
or No. 30 yarn. 

Yarn Tables and Weights. — The avordupois pound and ounce 
are the correct weights for yarn calculations, but finer denomina- 
tions are necessary ; the pennyweight and grain of the Troy weights 
being convenient, they are sometimes employed in expressing 
smaller divisions of an avordupois ounce. 
24 grains = 1 dwt. 
437! " or 28^- " = 1 ounce. 
7000 " " 291! " or 16 " = 1 pound. 

Table of Common Fractions of Ounces in Grains. 
of 1 ounce= 4-f grains. 



1 

100 

1 

10 
1 
t 



I 


u 


= 8* 


I 


u 


= 12^ 


I 


a 


= 43f 


I 


a 


= 8 7 i 


I 


a 


=io 9 | 


I 


a 


=i45f 


I 


a 


=2l8f 


I 


u 


=i 9 if 


I 


a 


=328! 



If y^j- of an ounce or 4-f grains are put into one shell of a balance 
scale, the number of any woolen yarn in runs may be ascertained 
by the number of yards it takes to balance the 4-f grains. 
12 



178 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

For the grain system of numbering woolen yarns the weight of 20 
yards of any yarn in grains being used as the number of the yarn, 
all that is required is a good scale and set of grain weights to ascer- 
tain the number. 

For cotton yarn use -££-$ for an ounce or 8^ grains and for 
worsted yarns use ^j- of an ounce or 12^- grains to ascertain the 
number of the yarn. 

Worsted and cotton numbers for yarns are derived from the 
number of hanks required per pound, but the size of reel used 
differs, therefore, the number of hanks per pound must be different. 
The cotton reel is taken at 54 inches in circumference, the worsted 
reel at 36 inches or 1 yard for a basis. 

Cotton Table. 

54 inches=i thread=i-J yards. 
80 threads=i lea or knot=i2o yards. 
7 leas or knots=i hank=84o yards. 

Worsted Table. 

36 inches=i thread=i yards. 
80 threads=i lea or knot=8o yards. 
7 leas or knots=i hank=56o yards. 

Some woolen mills number their yarns by cuts. The number 
given indicates the cuts per pound : 

Two hundred and forty yards per cut. 

Eight cuts per head. 

Six heads per spindle. 

Street's tables for grading yarns are highly recommended. 

F. T. Ashton of Pittsfield, Mass., publishes a Spinner's Guide, 
well thought of by many, for yarn calculations. 

The following tables are very convenient for those who must 
make comparative estimates of yarns numbered by the different 
systems. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



179 



YARN TABLE. 



Weight 

of 
20 Yds 


Yards. 


1,000 


2,000 


3,000 


4,000 


5,000 


6,000 


"7T000 


~870~00 


"97000 


Holes. 


16.66 


33.33 


50.00 


66.66 


83.33 


10.00 


11.66 


13.33 


15.00 


Grains. 


Runs. 
1 


.625 


1.25 


1.875 


2.50 


3.125 


3.75 


4.375 


5.00 


5.625 


87.50 


10.00 


20.00 


30.00 


40.00 


50.00 


60.00 


70.00 


80.00 


90.00 


70.00 


li 


8.00 


16.00 


24:00 


32.00 


40.00 


48.00 


56.00 


64.00 


72.00 


58.33 


n 


6.66 


13.33 


20.00 


26.66 


33.33 


40.00 


46.66 


53.33 


60.00 


50.00 


it 


5.71 


11.42 


17.20 


22.91 


28.62 


34.33 


40.11 


45.82 


51.53 


43.75 


2 


5.00 


10.00 


15.00 


20.00 


25.00 


30.00 


35.00 


40.00 


45.00 


38.88 


at 


4.44 


8.88 


13.33 


17.77 


22.22 


26.66 


31.11 


35.55 


40.00 


35.00 


2i 


4.00 


8.00 


12.00 


16.00 


20.00 


24.00 


28.00 


32.00 


36.00 


31.81 


34 


3.63 


7.27 


10.90 


14.54 


18.17 


21.81 


25.44 


29.08 


32.72 


29.16 


3 


3.33 


6.67 


10.00 


13.33 


16.67 


20.00 


23.33 


26.67 


30.00 


25.00 


H 


2.86 


5.71 


8.57 


11.42 


14.28 


17.14 


20.00 


22.84 


25.71 


21.87 


4 


2.50 


5.00 


'7.50 


10.00 


12.50 


15.00 


17.50 


20.00 


22.50 


19.43 


U 


2.22 


4.44 


6.66 


8.88 


11.11 


13.33 


15.55 


17.77 


20.00 


17.50 


5 


2.00 


4.00 


6.00 


8.00 


10.00 


12.00 


14.00 


16.00 


18.00 


15.90 


5* 


1.81 


3.63 


5.45 


7.27 


9.08 


10.90 


12.71 


14.54 


16.35 


14.57 


6 


1.66 


3.33 


5.00 


6.66 


8.33 


10.00 


11.66 


13.33 


15.00 


13.45 


u 


1.53 


3.07 


4.61 


6.15 


7.69 


9.22 


10.76 


12.30 


13.84 


12.50 


7 


1.42 


2.85 


4.28 


5.71 


7.14 


8.57 


10.00 


11.42 


12.85 


11.66 


n 


1.33 


2.66 


4.00 


5.33 


6.66 


8.00 


9.33 


10.66 


12.00 


10.93 


8 


1.25 


2.50 


3.75 


5.00 


6.25 


7.50 


8.75 


10.00 


11.25 


10.28 


8£ 


1.17 


2.35 


3.52 


4.70 


5.88 


6.05 


8.23 


9.40 


10.58 


9.71 


9 


1.11 


2.22 


3.33 


4.44 


5.55 


6.66 


7.77 


8.88 


10.00 


8.75 


10 


1.00 


2.00 


3.00 


4.00 


5.00 


6.00 


7.00 


8.00 


9.00 


7.95 


11 


.90 


1.81 


2.72 


3.63 


4.54 


5.45 


6.36 


7.27 


8.18 


7.28 


1 12 


.83 


1.66 


2.50 


3.33 


4.16 


5.00 


5.83 


6.66 


7.50 



Some years ago the author published the above yarn table. 
It has since been published by several other parties, which is suffi- 
cient evidence that the table is worth the space it occupies here. 
It is not convenient to any one who is not in the habit of using 
decimals in calculations of this kind. But to any one who has become 
thoroughly conversant with the convenience of the decimal point, 
it will be of great service in estimating stock required, yarns, 
spooler measures, etc. It is applicable to both the run and grain 
systems of numbering, and by using other tables of this work for 
comparison of numbers it will answer tolerably for worsted also. 
The original explanation of the table is also given : 

" The yarn table herewith is intended to cover several points. 
First, to find the weight in ounces of any number of threads, one 
yard in length, or, in other words, any number of yards of yarn. 
Second, to find the measure in runs; and, thirdly, in holes, of any 
number of yards. The size of the thread being designated both in 
grains and runs, in the two first columns. The yards in the first 
line, holes in the second, runs third, and ounces in all subsequent. 
The yards are given in thousands, for convenience sake ; for a less 



l8o SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

number it is only necessary to divide by ten, one hundred, or one 
thousand, as the case may be, by removing the decimal point to the 
left one, two or three spaces. The table is based as follows: 100 
yards of one-run yard weigh one ounce ; 1,600 yards or one run in 
length weighing one pound ; 60 yards one hole." 



Z. 

Zig-Zag. — In some parts, particularly in England, herring bone 
textures are called by this name. The texture effects which the 
writer classes as zig-zags are those in which the twills reverse in a 
much more irregular order. One sometimes meets muslins and 
gauze of this class, reminding one of chain lightning. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. l8l 



INDEX 

To the Subject Matter of the Manual which is 
not Alphabetically Arranged. 



Note. — The work contains 162 pages of names and terms with definitions and 
derivations, also elementary instructions on many important subjects involved, all 
arranged in alphabetical order. 

Page. 

Alpaca Wool 98 

Ananas Hemp 97 

Animal Fibers 98 

Boiler Ash-pits, Furnaces and Grates 38 

Boiler Bridge-wall 39 

Cam Looms 122 

Camel Hair 98 

Card Grinding. . 107 

Chain Drafts 86 

Chain Drafts for Backing 33 

Chain Drafts for Double Cloth 165 

Chain Drafts for Repellants 145 

Chain Looms 122 

Chinese Grass 97 

Close Shed Looms 122 

Cocoa Fibers 97 

Computations of Fuel, Steam, &c 40 

Contrast of Colors 57 

Dissecting Instruments 81 

Drafts Illustrating Cross Drawing 64 

Drafts Illustrating Simple Textures 161 

Drawing-in Drafts 86 

Draw Loom 122 

Dye-house Reels . 144 

Emery Rollers 94 

Estimate of Heddles 148 

Evaporation of Water in Boilers 46 

Filling Drafts 87 

Fixed Alkalies ... 21 

Flax 97 

General Consideration of Colors. . . 57 

Glass Threads 99 

Gold and Silver Threads ... 99 



1 82 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Hair Line Drafts m 

Harmony of Color gg 

Heating Feed Water for Boilers 42 

Imperfect Edges 03 

Introduction q 

Jute q 7 

Manila Hemp 18 

Mineral Fibers qS 

Nealing 24 



Nettle 



97 



Open Shed Looms 122 

Pelt Wool i 37 

Picking Out 75 

Positive Shuttle Motion Looms 122 

Qualities of Colors 5S 

Rammee 97 

Reducing or Deducing Drafts 160 

Reed Calculations , 147 

Reed Tables . . 141 

Roller Looms 122 

Rough Edges 93 

Ribbon Looms 122 

Rule for Shrinkage in Fulling - 103 

Shear Grinding 109 

Spooler Drafts 86 

Suggestions to Beginners 15 

Tables Showing Product of Looms 142-143 

Table of Oils — Comparative Weights 130 

Tape and Tappet Looms ... 122 

Teachings of Experience Relative to Colors 59 

Tenter Clothing 159 

The Manufacture of Textile Fabrics 11 

The Needle-bar Mechanism 69 

The Preparation of the Sample for Dissecting 78 

Uneven Yarn 176 

Vegetable Fibers 97 

Volatile Alkali 21 

Warpers' Drafts 86 

Water Surface of Boilers 40 

Yarn Reels 144 



APPENDIX 



APPENDIX. 



Achromatic. — Not showing color caused by the decomposition 
of light. 

Achromatic Lens. — A lens composed of separate lenses of dif- 
ferent shape and substance, with the necessary adjustment of curva- 
tures to correct the chromatic aberration in each by the other. 

Achromatic Microscope or Telescope. — Instruments in which 
the achromatic or compound lens is employed for the object glass. 

Burling. — The real process of burling involves nothing further 
than the removal of burrs from the woolen cloths, at a proper or 
convenient time during the finishing process. When burrs exist in 
great numbers, and the character of the goods permit, they may 
sometimes be satisfactorily removed by means of a chemical pro- 
cess. Nearly all fabrics require more or less burling. This is done 
by hand, and, as it would be a waste of time and labor to do other- 
wise, the burlers are expected to remove knots, lumps, slubs, etc. 
Upon careful, thorough and skillful burling many kinds of goods 
depend for a perfect appearance when finished. Goods may be 
such as to require the burling and removal of knots after washing — 
for instance, in many light worsted fabrics if a knot is removed be- 
fore washing, the ends of the threads will shrink back; again, some 
goods need to be burled several times ; in others some lumps, knots, 
etc., may be left in, for the fine-drawer to remove when ready to 
repair the damage, while others may be left in, until removed by 
some other operation like gigging or shearing. 

Delaine. — A light worsted fabric. The wool for these goods 
having been for a long time especially selected as to quality, length 
and strength, has given that class of wool the appellation " Delaine 
Wool." 

Extractors. — The use of extractors in factories is very im- 
portant, whether the water is thrown or squeezed out; all woolen 
fabrics especially should be thoroughly extracted before drying. 
The machines which throw out the water have one great advantage 
over those which squeeze it out, when cloth is extracted, viz., the 
13 



2 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

open state of the fabric produced. The pressure of squeezing rolls 
compresses the goods and makes them more impenetrable to currents 
of air necessary to dry them. The extractor of the day for cloth, is 
no doubt the new one recently introduced by the Tolhurst machine 
company of Troy. This machine throws the water from the goods, 
which are put into the machine upon a roll, thus saving much labor, 
and doing the work better than any other kind. Extractors for wool 
rags and the like must still retain the old principle — a basket 
revolved at high speed. 

Fine Drawing. — Fine drawing literally means drawing fine 
threads into fabrics to repair damages. The fine drawer should 
have a thorough comprehension of the texture in hand to do good 
work; this at once involves a mind superior to that found in the 
more ordinary working people ; also skill and judgment, all of 
which necessitate the payment of high wages for this work. Real 
fine-drawers of experience are hard to find in this country, conse- 
quently the work is largely left undone or poorly done. While this 
is wrong, and the education of good fine-drawers should interest 
every manufacturer because of the saving they would prove, it must 
not be supposed that the presence of any number of fine-drawers in 
any mill would make a greater leniency in other departments prac- 
ticable. On the contrary, prevention is ever better than cure, and 
in most instances in the factory, infinitely cheaper. The fine- 
drawer may save many times his or her wages in repairing unavoid- 
able damages in the most ordinary goods, but it is ruinous to pro- 
vide fine-drawers with more than this to do. 

Genappes. — " A worsted yarn, subsequently to spinning treated 
to produce upon the thread a smooth, lustrous and fiberless sur- 
face." 

Ink. — The subject of ink is of no little importance to the de- 
signer, if he would produce neat, clear and distinct drafts with the 
greatest ease possible. The same specifications apply as in me- 
chanical drawing. Good indelible inks are indispensable for the 
best work. 

Jacquard. — The Jacquard is a loom, parts of which were in- 
vented and improved by a noted Frenchman of the same name. 
Many improvements upon the original have been made. The sheds 
are opened by means of wire hooks of exactly the same form as those 
used in the witch machine, but are more numerous in the Jacquard 
machine. The hooks are placed in eight rows, (this varies according 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 3 

to the extent of the machine which is known in trade as the 400- 
machine — that is, a machine containing 400 of these hooks for the 
purpose of making patterns, and eight of which are sometimes used 
for selvages or other purposes.) Each of these is supported or kept in 
position by a cross-wire, having an eye through which the hook passes. 
One end of this wire is kept perfectly straight, while on the other end 
is formed a loop ; the straight end is passed through a perforated 
board called the needle-board, and is allowed to project about three- 
eighth of an inch in front of it ; the loop end is secured by a wire 
pin passed down through it. Immediately behind this is placed the 
spring box, which contains as many small helical springs as there 
are cross-wires, and which are so arranged that each one acts upon 
the loop at the end of the cross-wire. The pressure thus bestowed 
upon the cross-wires keeps them in position through the needle- 
board, and at the same time keeps the hooks in an upright position. 
To the bottom of the hooks is attached a cord termed the neck- 
cord ; this cord is passed down through the bottom board of the 
machine upon which the hooks rest. At a distance of a few feet 
from the bottom of the machine, and a short distance above the 
warp line is placed another perforated board, known as the cumber 
board. These holes are at regular distances, in rows of eight, the 
distances apart being arranged according to the number of ends per 
inch required in the cloth. The board is divided into divisions of 
as many holes as there are hooks in the machine. Taking the first 
hook in the machine a cord is passed down from it and through the 
first hole in each division of the number board. The second hook 
is treated in like manner, and so on, until every one of the four 
hundred hooks have as many cords attached to them as there are 
divisions in the cumber board Each of these cords has, at the 
warp line, a mail, through which the warp passes, and which 
answers the purpose of the heddle ; to the bottom of each cordis 
attached a lead or wire weight for the purpose of bringing it back 
into its place after being lifted to form a shed. Every cord in each 
division being each a repetition of the other. This four hundred, 
then, represents the limit of the number of ends upon which a pat- 
tern can be produced. It has been shown that the cross-wires are 
allowed to project in front of the needle-board. From the top of 
the frame depends an arm, which carries a square perforated bar, 
or, as it is termed, a cylinder. In this cylinder the holes are bored 
to conespond in position with the needle-board, but the holes are 
larger to allow the needles to enter them easily. It will be 
apparent that if this cylinder be brought in contact with the points 



4 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

of the needles which project through the needle-board no effect 
would be produced, because each needle would enter a hole, the 
springs in the box keeping them in position ; but if any of the holes 
in the cylinder are stopped, it immediately strikes back the needle, 
the spring giving way under the pressure ; the result is that the up- 
right hook is pushed back out of position over the lifting blades. 
These hooks are fixed in a movable frame, and their duty is to lift 
such of the hooks as are not pressed back in the manner described. 
The way in which the pattern is formed is by having a number of 
cards cut to the desired pattern and passing over the cylinder. At 
each tread or pick of the loom, the arm is thrown back, and all the 
needles are liberated. Then, as the shed closes, the cylinder again 
comes forward with the card upon it, and presses back such of the 
hooks as are not required to be lifted for the pattern which is being 
woven. To insure the cards following each other in the proper 
order, they are fastened together in a continuous chain, by means 
of string laced through holes cut for that purpose at each end and 
in the middle. The preparation of the cards is an important pro- 
cess, requiring a great amount of experience, skill, care and 
attention. The first thing that is necessary is that the design 
should be drawn, on an enlarged scale, upon squared paper, which 
is intended to represent the warp and weft. This being done, it is 
taken before the card cutter, placed between two laths, in such a 
manner as to leave in view the line which represents the pick of 
weft he is about to cut the card for. He places a punch in every 
hole of the plate corresponding with the white space upon his paper. 
The card and plate are then placed in the stamping machine and 
the card cut. After one set of cards has been cut from a design, 
any number may be repeated by means of the repeating machine. 
The cards are all numbered in the order in which they are cut from 
the design, put upon a frame to keep them in proper position in 
consecutive order, and laced or strung together as previously 
described. All this work is now largely done with machinery. 

Within the last thirty years the Jacquard apparatus has under- 
gone numerous modifications, not only to make it more efficient but 
to adapt it to particular descriptions of weaving. It has also been 
successfully applied to the lace frame, and to several purposes apart 
from weaving, such as musical instruments, to punching machines 
for punching wrough-iron plates used in the construction of girders, 
and to type-setting machines. To increase the speed of the ap- 
paratus, and to make it more adapted to the power-loom, rising and 
falling motions have been given to the bottom board of the machine, 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 5 

as well as the griffe and the double action principle for increasing 
speed is gradually working its way. A great improvement has also 
been made by working the card cylinder by a connection which can 
be detached, which not only operates advantageously for the action 
of the griffe on the hooks, but enables the weaver to reverse the 
cards or " pull back " with ease and certainty. Even electricity has 
been applied for operating on the needles, but this idea, although 
workable, can scarcely be considered in any other light than as a 
novelty. Since the power loom became thoroughly established the 
improvements in it have been so great and varied that we can at 
present merely indicate their nature. In the loom itself the take-up 
motion and weft stop motion have been much improved. Shedding 
motions, for the production of small patterns, have been very 
numerous, and many of them very ingenious. Circular and drop 
boxes have also received great attention, in order to adapt them to 
the increased speed of the loom, which is now at least twice as fast 
as in the early days of the power loom weaving. These boxes are 
for the purpose of weaving checks, or goods which require different 
colored or different kinds of weft. Swivel, carpet, velvet and other 
descriptions of looms, in combination with Jacquards, have also re- 
ceived great improvements. 

Lamps. — For night work in the designing-room good light should 
be the first consideration. This can only be obtained when the 
flame from which the light is delivered is large, intense and steady. 
Many design-rooms have gas light, which is very good when the gas 
and burners are good and the pressure even ; but many must work 
where gas is not available ; for such the best coal oil lamp is the next 
best to a good gas jet, unless the electric light is made available. 
But none of these will without the aid of reflectors and condensing 
lenses prove sufficient to illuminate an object under a microscope, 
or a sample to be dissected. Well directed light is needed. 

Lenses. — Many kinds of spare lenses are very convenient in a 
designing-room. A set of cheap lenses of the various forms, viz. : 
Double Convex, Double Concave, Piano Convex, Piano Concave, 
Meniscus Convex and Meniscus Concave should be possessed by 
all. A few larger Piano Convex lenses may be used to good 
advantage as condensers for special illumination. Especially does 
the designer need colored lenses, to test, correct and suggest new 
shades and tints of colors. These are not expensive ; with them 
costly experiments are often avoided. Even solid sombre colors can 
be advantageously examined and correctly criticised by their use. 



6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Magnifying Glasses. — A good magnifying glass is often very 
convenient, while it does not permit the scope of powers and focus 
that a single microscope may, it has the advantage of being always 
ready for such work as can be done with it. For dissecting they 
are undesirable for many reasons ; the microscopes for the purpose 
are more steady, reliable and can be adapted to various kinds of 
work. Single lenses are objectionable in nearly every kind of in- 
strument used by the designer, the achromatic lenses are needed to 
discern colors correctly. 

Microscopic Objects. — A large collection of well-mounted 
objects, like and similar to objects which should be frequently 
examined are of inestimable value. They serve as a base of opera- 
tions for nice and important comparisons. 

Mounting Materials. — The necessity of mounting materials in 
the designing-room, or office of every first class factory, arises from 
the fact that a well-mounted microscopic object may be preserved 
for any length of time ; it requires little space and usually proves 
more valuable for future reference and comparison than pages of 
memorandums or drawings. 

Parcel Pens. — This name was given these pens because they 
were intended by the inventor for marking parcels. The designer 
finds for these, a set of good; shading pens, and the triple pointed 
pens, a much more important use. By choosing a pen of the right 
width, either the parcel pen or a good shading pen, will fill an entire 
square of the design paper with one stroke. Thus these conveni- 
ences may be used to beautify as well as lessen his work. 

RECEIPTS. 

Cements. — Rust Joint — (Quick Setting.) — One pound Sal-am- 
moniac, 2 pounds Flower of Sulphur, 80 pounds fine Iron chips. 
Made to a paste with water. 

(Slow Setting.) — Two pounds Sal-ammoniac, 1 pound of Sulphur, 
200 pounds Iron borings. 

The latter cement is best if the joint is not required for immedi- 
ate use. 

For Steam Boilers, Steam Pipes, etc. — (Soft.) — Red or white lead 
in oil, 4 parts; fine Iron chips, 2 to 3 parts. 

(Hard.) — Fine Iron chips and salt water, and a small quantity of 
Sal-ammoniac with fresh water. 

For Holes in Castings. — Sulphur in powder, 1 part ; Sal-ammoniac, 



SHTZLI'S MANUAL. 7 

2 parts ; powdered Iron turnings, 80 parts. Make into a thick 
paste. 

The ingredients composing this cement should be kept separate, 
and not mixed until required for use. 

To Mend Iron. — Sulphur 2 parts, fine Black Lead 1 part. Put 
the sulphur in an iron pot, over a fire, until it melts, then add the 
lead ; stir well ; then pour out. When cool break into small pieces. 
A sufficient quantity of this compound being placed upon the crack 
of the ware to be mended, use a soldering iron as in brazing. 

For Cisterns and Casks. — Melted glue, 8 parts ; Linseed-oil, 4 
parts. Boiled into a varnish with litharge. 

This cement hardens in about 48 hours, and renders the joints 
of wooden cisterns and casks air and water tight. 

Inks — Indelible, for Marking Linen, etc. — 1. Juice of Sloes, 1 pint ; 
Gum, half an ounce. 

This requires no " preparation " or mordant, and is very durable. 

2. Nitrate of silver, 1 part ; Water, 6 parts ; Gum, 1 part. Dis- 
solve. 

3. Lunar caustic, 2 parts; Sap green and Gum arabic, each 1 
part. Dissolve with distilled water. 

The "Preparation." — Soda, 1 ounce; Water, 1 pint; Sap green, 
\ drachm. Dissolve and wet the article to be marked, then dry 
and apply the ink. 

A Permanent Ink for Stones, Marble, etc. — Pitch, 1 1 parts ; Lamp- 
black, 1 part ; Turpentine sufficient. Warm and mix. 

Copying Ink. — Add 1 oz. of Sugar to a pint of ordinary ink. 

Speck Dye for cloths with cotton warps and mixed filling (cotton 
and wool). 

Pounds. 

Extract Logwood - . 100 

Soda-ash 7 7-J 

Blue Vitriol 43 

Extra Citron 6 

Make in 100 gallons of water ; reduce to strength desired. 
This will tint white wool. 

Another which is safe to use on cloths which have fancy woolen 
threads, 100 gallons of water. 

Pounds. 

Logwood (extract) 62 

Soda-ash 30 

Blue Vitriol 15 



8 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

For specking ink use some good indelible ink which dries quickly. 
A little gum arabic hastens drying. A good printer's ink thinned 
down with benzine is good also. 

To Remove Stains. — Stains of iodine are removed by rectified 
spirit. Ink stains by oxalic or superoxalate of potash. Ironmolds 
by the same : but if obstinate, moisten them with ink, then remove 
them in the usual way. Red spots upon black cloth from acids are 
removed by spirits of hartshorn, or other solutions of ammonia. 

Stains of Marking-ink, or Nitrate of Silver. — Wet the stain with 
fresh solution of Chloride of lime, and after 10 or 15 minutes, if 
the marks have become white, dip the part in solution of Ammonia 
or of Hyposulphite of soda. In a few minutes wash with clean 
water. Or, stretch the stained linen over a basin of hot water, and 
wet the mark with tincture of iodine. 

To Remove Iron Mold. — Remoisten the part stained with ink, 
if possible the same kind as that in the stain ; remove this by the 
use of muriatic acid diluted by 5 or 6 times its weight of water, 
when the old and new stain will be removed. 

Cleansing and Scouring. — While Job Dyeing is not a subject 
proper for this book, it involves many points which manufacturers 
would do well to heed; to prove this assertion we quote from "The 
Dyer and Scourer " a few remarks on scouring as practised by "job 
dyers " : 

" The object sought for in scouring operations is, or should be, the 
thorough cleansing of the goods under such treatment. Unfortunate- 
ly, however, many persons, either from ignorance or carelessness, fall 
far short of attaining the desired end. More especially is this liable 
to be the case with the " jobber ; " and for this reason, and also 
because of the peculiar nature of some of his work, we propose to 
devote a little space to this important subject. And we will 
first consider the treatment of such goods as are for cleaning 
only, because, in our humble opinion, such articles should re- 
ceive the undivided attention of the workman, should be scoured 
as expeditiously as possible, and removed to the drying room at 
once. Of course, for all scouring purposes, rain water, by reason of 
its freedom from mineral or earthly matter, is preferable ; but owing 
to the large quantity necessarily consumed in these operations, and 
the uncertainty of the supply, the workman is reduced to the neces- 
sity of using spring, river or other water, all more or less contami- 
nated with these impurities, the presence of which is the prime 
cause of his failure. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 9 

It is of paramount importance that the scourer's soap should be 
of good uniform quality, and that he should use it of uniform 
strength. To secure these desirable ends, he will, in the first place, 
deal only with good, reliable makers, and, secondly, will dissolve a 
given weight of soap in a known quantity of water. He will also do 
well to see that the soap used for the class of scouring now under 
consideration is of a neutral character, and is always used cold, thus 
lessening the chances of bleeding the colors in the goods treated. 

We will now proceed to scouring of men's clothes. We first beat 
out, or brush off, any loose dirt, and turn out the dirt from the 
pockets ; then make up a good substantial soap liquor in the punch- 
tub, and, entering the goods, punch them well for ten or fifteen 
minutes, occasionally turning them over. 

We now fold each article as flat as possible, taking care to turn 
the buttons inside, and pass through the wringer. This squeezes 
out the dirty soap, and leaves the goods in a better condition for the 
next liquor, which should only be of sufficient strength to fill them, 
or, in other words, to make a good lather in them, which can be 
ascertained by squeezing in the hand, when, if they have sufficient, 
it will come to the surface and remain. We again put through the 
wringer, and then punch in another liquor, with just sufficient soap 
added to raise what (in the language of the dye-house) is termed a 
bead, or, in other words, enough to create and support bubbles on 
the surface. This liquor takes the soap from the goods, and causes 
them to come clear from the rinse. The reason for this is that be- 
fore a bead can possibly rise to the surface of this weak liquor, 
enough soap must be added to combine with or neutralize the whole 
of the impurities in the water, leaving the latter soft, and free to 
appropriate the soap in the goods. After working in this a short 
time, we find it getting quite frothy and strong; we then lift the 
goods and add more water, taking care not to entirely knock down 
the bead. We punch in this again, occasionally adding water, until 
the soap is all drawn from the goods, which is known by squeezing 
them and by the poorness of the liquor. They might even be dried 
at this stage, but to make assurance doubly sure we proceed to 
rinse them in two separate waters at about ioo° Fah., and from this 
if all woolen — pass them through cold water with just sufficient 
sulphuric acid in it to be appreciable to the taste, and finally put 
them in the " salt hardening." After laying a short time in this, we 
take out and extract all the water possible, either by means of the 
"hydro extractor," which is best, or the wringer, which last should 
have rubber rollers. Upon reaching the stove or drying-room we 



IO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

pull or stretch any that we think likely to have shrunk a little, and 
then hang the whole up to dry by putting each article on half a 
wooden hoop suspended from the center. The object in passing 
through the acidulated water is three-fold. It kills whatever traces 
of soap still remain ; it clears up such goods as greys, checks or 
anything containing white ; and raises or brightens such as are 
mixed with yellow, orange, scarlet, blue, green and kindred colors. 
It is contended by some dyers that goods containing drabs, fawns, 
browns and other wood colors are injured and their color changed 
by this use of acid ; but we have found from long experience that, 
used in the proportion above named, it has the effect of restoring 
these colors to their original shade previous to scouring, for, let this 
operation be conducted ever so carefully, the soap will to a certain 
extent affect them, and that in a directly opposite manner to the 
acid, which in this case merely neutralizes the effects of the former. 
The salt hardening is for the purpose of preventing the colors from 
running, or rather for fixing them, and is made by merely adding 
one pound of common salt to every thirty gallons of cold water. 
This is the proper treatment for nearly all woolen goods, and, with 
trifling modifications, mixed goods also; although some of such, 
owing to the ease with which they bleed, should be cleaned singly by 
hand, as they are thus put through more expeditiously. 

In the cleaning of silk we substitute a large board and a brush 
for the punches, and keep the articles as flat and free from creases 
as possible. This is to avoid the crushing or breaking of the silk; 
which, owing to its peculiar close texture and stiffness, would in- 
evitably follow were we to treat it in the usual way ; and which, 
moreover, no amount of subsequent dressing or finishing would 
effectually remove. The best plan is to have the pieces composing 
dress or other articles tacked into a compact sheet or strip, which 
can be handled and folded over readily. We give the soaps as for 
woolens, but we do not punch ; on the contrary, we brush and handle 
these goods through all the liquors as carefully and straight as 
possible. Neither do we wring, because in the first place, it is not 
necessary, silk holding so little soap ; and, secondly, because it 
would break and injure the silk. To get the water from such goods 
previous to hanging up, we either place in the " extractor," or 
spread fiat on a sheet, and rub down smoothly with clean white 
cloths. Some silks, having a peculiar, sensitive or fugitive top 
given them in the dyeing for producing a particular shade, such, for 
instance, as some apple-greens topped with picric acid, dark browns 
topped with indigo compound, and others will, in spite of the 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I I 

utmost care, lose some of this surface color ; and in some cases it 
will be found necessary to pass such through a weak warm bath of 
the lacking dye. ***** 

In preparing goods that are, for the most part, badly soiled and 
faded, for dyeing, our aim is not only to clean them but also, with 
some exceptions hereafter noticed, to bleed or strip them, and 
thereby leave as little of the old color as possible. 

We first select the white or light-colored articles, and proceed to 
punch them in a strong soap at a temperature of about no° Fah., 
having a little ammonia or other alkali in solution. When this 
appears dead, or fails to lather up, we wring out and give another 
soap, as before — omitting the alkalis, however. Then follows the 
weak, or thin soap liquor, as described previously, only that in this 
case it is used quite warm. Now rinse in two warm and one cold 
waters, extract, and if not intending to dye directly, hang up to dry. 
If, however, you are ready to dye at once, examine the goods well, 
and see if all the grease spots, etc., are completely removed. We 
proceed with the dark goods in exactly the same way, but giving a 
little more alkali ; increasing the amount if it is desirable to strip 
them much ; at the same time being careful not to injure the fabric 
by an overdose. As already stated, this stripping off of the color is 
not always advantageous, on the contrary, there are many instances 
in which it is a positive advantage and profit to retain all we can of 
the dye on the goods. This is more particularly the case with 
goods that are to be redyed the same color ; also, though in a less 
degree, does it apply to articles where the existing color will form a 
bottom or constituent part of the one we wish to apply. To illus- 
trate this : we have some scarlet or crimson damask window cur- 
tain to redye — perhaps very dirty and trifle faded — we thoroughly 
clean them as just stated, but omit all free alkali, using our soaps 
just milk-warm; rinse well; pass through a sharp sour, and dye. 
We find that the quantity of cochineal, etc., required for this pur- 
pose, is regulated by the body of color we are able to retain in the 
goods while scouring ; and therefore, considering the price of such 
dye-drugs, this matter is surely worth some attention. 

Again, where we have goods of a simple color to dye a compound 
color, it will be found in some cases merely necessary to give the 
other or absent constituent or constituents of the color sought for, 
entirely leaving out that represented by the color already on the 
cloth. For instance : suppose we have some blue cloth or yarn that 
we want either green or purple ; if we can preserve a good body of 



12 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

blue in these goods, we can get our green by simply giving the 
proper amount of yellow, or the purple by merely giving red. 

It is a common practice with dyers to dispense altogether with 
scouring when the goods are for black ; but we must confess we 
fail to see any advantage arising from this departure from the 
general treatment. It is urged in support of such conduct, that 
black, being the embodiment of all colors, does, by reason of its 
density, cover up or conceal all stains and dirt, and that a great 
saving is effected both in soap and time. Now let us see if this is 
borne out in practice. We dye a dress, coat, or other articles hav- 
ing more or less dirt and grease in it, and we find in most cases, 
upon looking the article over, that these imperfections are really 
hidden. But look at the same article, after it has been worn a short 
time, and we find that a little rubbing and exposure has sufficed to 
remove the kindly but unsubstantial veil that hid them from the 
workman's gaze. This alone should be enough to show him the 
impolicy of such a course, for the turning out of such work is not 
likely to add to his reputation as a good dyer, and therefore not cal- 
culated to increase his profits. There is an old maxim that says; 
" Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well ; " and the 
dyer would be consulting his own interest did he follow its teaching. 
Before passing on to dyeing operations, it will not be out of place 
to make a few remarks on "bleaching." Woolens, silk and straw 
are bleached by exposing to the action of sulphurous acid, a gas 
produced by burning sulphur in an open vessel. The goods must 
be thoroughly wetted, and are then hung up straight and open in a 
close room or closet, and a pan of sulphur placed on the floor. 
When all is ready, we ignite the sulphur by dropping a piece of red 
hot iron in the pan and at once close the door. After remaining 
some hours, we take down and rinse in clear cold water, and as the 
white thus obtained has more or less of a yellowish tint, we proceed 
in the case of the woolen and silk goods to dye them white. For 
this purpose we take a clean vessel of cold water, giving the goods 
plenty of room, and if not very yellow, merely give a little blue ; 
working in this until a good white. If, however, the goods seem 
very yellow, the blue will not do alone, but must be associated with 
a little red. Of course the quantities of coloring matter must be 
very minute, and should always be strained. We can use sulphate 
of indigo and cudbear for this white, or we can resort entirely to 
aniline colors. 

We are not confined in these operations exclusively to white 
goods. Checks and mixes, such as scarlet and white, orange and 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 3 

white, yellow and white, Prussian blue and white, or in fact any goods 
where the colored part has been dyed in a bath containing tin 
spirits, sulphuric acid, etc., will be much improved by this process, 
but for such as are mixed with sweet colors, as common black, 
brown, drab, olive, etc., we must content ourselves by passing 
through acidulated water as before described. 

Cotton is bleached by being wrought in a solution of chloride of 
lime and soda, or by first working in chloride of lime only, and then 
passing through a sharp sour of vitriol. We must be particular to 
avoid having any loose bits of lime in the bleaching liquor, as 
wherever such come in contact with the goods a hole is the result. 
The best plan is to dissolve the lime in a separate vessel, and then 
pour through a strainer into the bleaching tub. Care must be taken 
not to let the solution exceed a certain strength, or the goods will 
be injured. It should in no instance stand above i° of Twaddell's 
hydrometer, and for most purposes can be used weaker. It is of 
great importance that the goods be thoroughly washed or rinsed 
from the bleach, more especially if they are for dyeing. 

In concluding this section of our work, we would explain, for the 
benefit of those unacquainted with their use, that the puncher and 
the punch-tub so often spoken of in the foregoing pages are indis- 
pensable aids in the "job dye-house." The puncher is made from 
a sound piece of birch or ash, three feet long and six inches square. 
From one end of this piece we saw out two slabs at right angles, 
two inches thick and eighteen inches long, thus leaving four legs 
each two inches square. Next reduce the other end, above these 
legs, to a uniform thickness of three inches, finally putting in a 
cross-piece or handle, fifteen inches long and one and one-half 
inches diameter, two inches from the top. The peculiarity of the 
punch-tub consists in the thickness of the bottom, which is four 
inches, and also from the fact of the latter being brought down flush 
with the bottom of the staves. This is for the purpose of giving 
increased strength and stability, and rendering it the better able to 
withstand the blows of the puncher. It is about two feet six inches 
in height, and the same in diameter at the top, gradually lessening 
toward the bottom, which is two feet across." 

To Destroy Burrs with Chemicals. — Steep the wool in which the 
burrs exist several hours in a bath of sulphuric acid, 4 to 6° B. 
next pass it through a weak soda bath about 4 B. Dry the wool, 
using a pretty hot current of air. By this process the burrs are 
converted into dust. 



14 SPITZLTS MANUAL. 

To Remove Burrs from Wool by Chemical Means. — Prepare a 
bath of dilute muriatic acid., containing from 3 to 5 per cent, of the 
acid. A little sulphuric acid is sometimes added. After steeping 
in the bath for several hours, or over night, the wool is taken out and 
dried. The vegetable fiber is thus destroyed, being rendered friable, 
pulverulent, and easily removed on the cards. The process of 
separating cotton from wool is substantially the same. 

Extracting Cotton from Delaines. — Take for delaines about one 
part of oil of vitriol to fourteen parts of water; put the dry rags 
into the solution, taking not less than 30 and not more than 45 
minutes for this operation ; leave in about five minutes. Get rid of 
the dust of the vegetable fiber by rubbing, etc., and wash in clear 
water or salt water (one pound of salt to one of wool.) If the fiber 
has been rendered harsh by the acid, use a little oil or cow's milk to 
soften it. 

Cleaning Tag Locks and Clotted Wool. — Wool that is clotted with 
dirt needs subjecting to a sweating or softening process; the same is 
good for "tag-locks;" and this softening process is also good for 
wool that is badly fleece-grown. " Tag-locks " should be wetted 
down with hot scouring liquor in some place where the pile can be 
kept warm, and when the balls of dirt have become quite soft dry 
the whole and dust well; then scour. The dirtiest "tag-locks " can 
be cleaned in this way. 

Wool Scouring Liquors. — A great array of formulas might be 
given here, each having done good service somewhere, each having 
been found wanting elsewhere. Never expose wool to more than 
120 F., or less than 90 F. in a scouring liquor. To produce a 
good scouring liquor consider first the water used, overcome the im- 
purities with the mildest chemicals which will answer the purpose and 
yet unite freely with the chemicals necessary to saponify the soluble 
natural grease. Soap and sal soda are mild and softening, but they 
felt the wool more quickly than soda ash, ammonia and some other 
alkalies. Soda ash, caustic soda, turpentine or rosin must be used 
in very small quantities, if used at all ; they destroy the most valu- 
able characteristics of fine wool. 

To Remove Grease Spots. — Keep in a well-corked 4-ounce vial the 
best of benzine, to which has been added a few drops of ammonia. 
Shake well, dampen the spot and dry out with cloths and hot irons. 
Blotting paper is better than cloths in some instances. 

Sizing. — For woolen yarn. To a solution of Irish moss which is 
thick enough to be " stringy," add light solution of glue. Boil well 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 5 

together and cool. Some size with glue. Glue is safe, but if hard 
and brittle a very little wax will soften it. A very good size for 
woolen yarn or warps is made with gelatine 1 pound, glycerocolle 
1 to 4 ounces, and 6 to 8 quarts of water, according to the strength 
of size desired. 

Sizing for Cotton Yarn. — Water, 100 quarts; flour, 200 
pounds : soap, 6 pounds ; tallow, 8 pounds ; molasses, 2 pounds. 
The flour is first digested during three months in the water, and 
then the whole is boiled together till perfectly limpid. 

A good Size can be made with 40 pounds of starch and 1 pound 
of sulphate of zinc, to 200 quarts of water. 

Boil 2 ounces of gum arabic in 6 ounces of water till all is dis- 
solved, then add 4 ounces of wax and stir well till the wax is melted 
and fully incorporated ; it is then ready to mix with a hot dressing 
made with 10 pounds of flour. 

Ten pounds pale British gum ; 2 pounds sulphate of aluminum; 
24 pounds glycerine of 28 B., and 60 pounds of water. 

Glues — For Parchment. — Parchment shavings, 1 pound ; Water, 
6 quarts. Boil until dissolved, then strain and evaporate slowly 
to the proper consistence. 

Rice Glue or Japanese Cement. — Rice flour ; Water, sufficient 
quantity. Mix together cold, then boil, stirring it all the time. 

Liquid. — 1. Glue, Water and Vinegar, each 2 parts. Dissolve in a 
water-bath, then add Alcohol, 1 part. 

2. Cologne or strong glue, 2.2 pounds; Water, 1 quart. Dis- 
solved over a gentle heat; add 7 ounces nitric acid $(y°, in small 
quantities. Remove from the fire and cool. 

3. White Glue, 16 ounces ; White lead, dry, 4 ounces ; Rain 
water, 2 pints. Add Alcohol, 4 ounces, and continue the heat for a 
few minutes. 

Marine. — Dissolve India-rubber, 4 parts, in 34 parts of Coal-tar 
Naphtha; add powdered Shellac, 64 parts. While the mixture is 
hot it is poured upon metal plates in sheets. When required for 
use it is heated and then applied with a brush. Or, 1 part India- 
rubber, 12 parts of coal tar; heat gently, mix and add 20 parts of 
powdered Shellac. Pour out to cool. When used, heat to about 
250 . Or, Glue, 12 parts; water, sufficient to dissolve; add yellow 
resin, 3 parts ; and, when melted, add turpentine, 4 parts. Mix 
thoroughly together. 

Strong Glue. — Add powdered chalk to common glue. 



I 6 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Gum Mucilage. — Oil of cloves poured into a bottle containing 
gum mucilage prevents it from becoming sour, (10 drops per quart). 

Glue to Resist Moisture. — Five parts glue, 4 parts resin, 2 parts red 
ochre, mixed with the least practicable quantity of water. Or, 4 
parts of glue, 1 part of boiled oil by weight, 1 part oxide of iron. 
Or, 1 pound of glue melted in 2 quarts of skimmed milk. 

Varnish for Iron and Steel. — Clear grains of mastic, 12 parts ; 
camphor, 5 parts ; sandarach, 15 parts ; and elemi, 5 parts. Dis- 
solve in a sufficient quantity of alcohol, and apply without heat. 
This varnish will retain its transparency, and the metallic brilliancy 
of the articles will not be obscured. 

To Prevent Iron From Rusting. — Warm it ; then rub with 
white wax ; put it again to the fire until the wax has pervaded the 
entire surface. Or, immerse tools or bright work in boiled linseed- 
oil and allow it to dry upon them. 

Varnish for Draughtmen's Paper. — Powdered Tragacanth, 1 
part; water, 10 parts. Dissolve, and strain through clean gauze, 
then lay it smoothly upon the paper, previously stretched upon a 
board. This paper will take either oil or water-colors. 

Anti-friction Grease. — 100 pounds tallow, 70 pounds palm- 
oil. Boiled together, and when cooled to 8o°, strain through a 
sieve, and mix with 28 pounds of soda and i-J gallons of water. 
For winter, take 25 pounds more oil in place of the tallow. Or, 
black lead, 1 part ; lard, 4 parts. 

Booth's Grease for Railway Axles. — Water, 1 gall.; clean 
tallow, 3 lbs.; palm-oil, 6 lbs.; common soda, ^ lb.; or, tallow, 8 lbs.; 
palm-oil, 10 lbs. To be heated to about 212 , and to be well stirred 
until it cools to 70 . 

Ribbons. — Italian organzine silk, either thrown in Italy or Eng- 
land from Italian raw silk (and principally the last) is used for the 
warp of the best English ribbons ; Bengal and China organzine for 
inferior qualities. China, Bengal and Broussa singles, and English, 
thrown, are used largely for filling. 

Bengal silk cannot be used for fine colors ; Marabout is used for 
gauzes. The fineness of the silk is determined by the number 
of warp ends, measuring 72 yards in the ounce ; fine silk, for 
instance, runs about 160 threads of that length to the ounce. One 
ounce in twenty is allowed for waste in the manufacture of silk into 
ribbons. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 7 

Ribbons are made according to a fixed standard of widths desig- 
nated by different numbers of pence, which once, no doubt, denoted 
the price of the article, but at present have reference only to its 
breadth. The French distinguish their widths by simple numbers. 
Thus the English ribbons, from a quarter of an inch to about four 
and a half inches wide, are called from penny widths to forty penny 
widths ; while the French have from No. 1 to No. 60. All dressed 
ribbons, as satins, gauzes, etc., are made in the loom one-twelfth of 
an inch wider than sarsanets ; in order to allow for the diminution 
of breadth which results from the lengthwise stretching they receive 
in the operation of dressing ; fine gauzes require an allowance of 
two-twelfths. 

French satins are woven with the face downward, and are lighter 
in make than English, but have a peculiar richness and lustre owing 
to their superior silk. French ribbons in general have less weight 
of silk than the English. The transparency of gauze ribbon is pro- 
duced by the kind of silk of which it is made, the fine hard twisted 
marabout which leaves the interstices clear. One warp thread only 
passes between each dent of the reed, and these are closer together 
than lute-strings and satins. In fine satins, there are eighty or 
more dents, and from ninety to one hundred and twenty picks to 
the inch. The plain gauze ribbons made at Coventry, called China 
gauzes, are chiefly those used for mourning — white, black and 
lavender, with satin on ground stripes. In the fancy gauze ribbons, 
the figures are frequently produced in a different color from the 
ground by the mixture of colors in the warp, the colors being 
warped separately. In the intervals of the figures, the colored 
threads are carried along the under side of the ribbon. It is said to 
have a double or treble figure, according to the number of colors 
passing through each dent. In some ribbons — gauzes in particular 
— these threads are cut away by the scissors after the ribbon is 
made. In brocades, the figure is made by small additional shuttles, 
thrown in partially across the ribbon, as the pattern may require, the 
connecting threads of the filling being clipped off. By damask is 
meant the laying of the warp over the filling to form the figure, in the 
manner of satin. The patterns are sometimes geometrical, but more 
frequently combinations of leaves, sprigs or flowers. In the supe- 
rior French ribbons, groups and wreaths of flowers are executed 
with the richness and variety of hand embroidery. Novelties are 
continually being introduced in coloring and texture. In the rib- 
bon manufacture the labor is nearly the same for the richer as for 
14 



1 8 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

the inferior goods, the difference consisting principally in the silk of 
which they are made. Cheap ribbons are generally made by re- 
ducing the warp silks, which is the most expensive, and making up 
the bulk of the ribbon with a larger proportion of the cheap material 
in the filling. 

RULES AND EXAMPLES FOR CALCULATIONS. 

Relative to Shrinkages. — To find the percentage, the actual 
shrinkage being known : Add two decimal ciphers to the pounds 
lost, and divide by the gross pounds. 

To find the net cost, the per cent, of shrinkage and gross price 
being known: Divide the gross price by $1.00 less the percentage 
of shrinkage. 

To Regulate Weight of Goods in Drying. — To correct the 
weight of goods in drying it is necessary to let them run up to gain 
weight; to stretch, if wanted lighter. It is not best to leave such im- 
portant work to inferior workmen. It is an easy matter for the finish- 
er to ascertain the loss of weight by cleansing. If, then, the raw piece 
is weighed, and the weight marked on the goods, he has but to deduct 
the loss of weight by percentage to ascertain the weight of the piece 
finished. Reduce the clean weight to ounces and divide the ounces 
total by the ounces wanted per yard, the quotient is the length to 
which the piece must be finished to be of the right weight. If the 
overseer will make this calculation and give the drying operatives 
the correct order, there should be no trouble with weights. 

Rules for Yarn Calculations, &c. — To find the size number, 
the yards per pound or ounce being known. 

The yards per pound divide by 1600 for woolen runs. 

" 560 for worsted numbers. 
" 840 for cotton numbers. 

20 and with the quotient divide 
7000 for woolen grain numbers. 

The yards per ounce divide by 100 for woolen runs. 

" 35 for worsted numbers. 
" 52^ for cotton numbers. 
" 20 and with the quotient divide 
437-5 f° r woolen grain numbers. 

Example. — What are the size numbers of a yarn, 6720 yards of 
which weigh a pound, or 420 yards of which weigh an ounce ? 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. I 9 

420-i-ioo or 6720-1-1600=4-^0 runs. 

420-f- 35 or 6720-i- 560=12 worsted number. 

420-T-525 or 6720-i- 840= 8 cotton number. 

6720-5-20=336 7000-5-336=^20111 woolen numbers in grains. 

Note. — Ashton gives a very convenient grain table for these calculations. 

To convert woolen yarn numbered by cuts, threads, and spindles 
per pound to other woolen yarn numbers : 

Divide the number of cuts per pound by 3 and multiply by 20 to 
obtain the runs. 

Multiply the threads per pound by 1.2, and multiply the spindles 
per pound by 7.2. 

Cotton Worsted 

Hank. Hanks. Runs. 

240 yards=i cut f or f or ■^■ 

8 cuts==i head. .- 2f or 3-f or i| 

6 heads=i spindle 13-! or 20-f- or i\ 

To ascertain the yards per pound by the grain number system, 
divide 7000 by the number of grains which 20 yards weigh, and 
multiply by 20. 

Analysis : If 20 yards weigh 35 grains, in 7000 grains there will 
be as many times 20 yards as 35 is contained in 7000. 

To convert grain numbers to run numbers, find the yards per 
pound and divide that number by 1600. 

To convert grain numbers to worsted numbers, find the number 
of yards per pound and divide that number by 560. 

To convert grain numbers to cotton numbers, find the number of 
yards as above and divide by 840. 

To convert other numbers to grain numbers, divide 140000 by 
the yards per pound of the size to be reduced. 

To convert run numbers into grain numbers, divide the yards per 
pound by 20 and use the quotient as a divisor with which to divide 
7000. 

To convert run numbers into worsted numbers, multiply the run 
number by 20 and divide by 7, or divide the number of yards per 
pound by 560. 

To convert run numbers into cotton numbers, multiply the run 
number by 40 and divide by 21, or divide the number of yards per 
pound by 840. 

To convert other numbers to run numbers, find the yards per 
pound and divide by 1600. 

To convert other numbers to worsted numbers, find the yards per 
pound and divide by 560. 



20 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

For cotton numbers, divide by 840. 

Cotton Yarn Calculations. — To find the weight of the warp, 
the ends, yards and number of yarn being known ; multiply the ends 
by the number of yards; divide the product by the size number, 
and the quotient obtained by 840. 

Example. — A warp 450 yards long, 1700 ends, No. 25 yarn, what 
is the weight total? 

1700 x 450=765000-^-25 = 30600-5-840=36 lbs. 7 oz. 

To find the total number of hanks in a warp, also the size num- 
ber or hanks per pound, the ends, yards and weight being known : 
Multiply the ends by the yards and divide the product by 840 to 
find the total number of hanks. Divide the total number of hanks 
by the weight to find the size number. 

Example. — A warp 450 yards, 1700 ends, weight 36 lbs 7 oz., 
how many hanks per warp ; how many per pound : 

1700 X 45o==765ooo-h84o=9io-|| L -=-36 I :L 3-==No. 24.99. 

Answer: 9io-ff- hanks per warp, and 24.99 hanks per lb. 

To find the weight per yard of cloth, the weight of 1 square inch 
(in grains) being known : Multiply the weight of one inch by the 
square inches per yard (1944 for £ goods, 972 for f goods), and 
divide the product by 437.5. The result is the desired weight in 
ounces. 

To find the weight per yard from any sample the exact area of 
which is known : Ascertain the weight of the sample in grains 
which multiply by the area per yard in inches. Divide the pro- 
duct by the area of the sample and the quotient thus obtained by 
437.5. The result will be the weight per yard in ounces. 

Note. — Above rules will permit no error in estimating area or weight, the 
utmost exactness is necessary. For the purpose of making the sample just right in 
size, use a die. 

To test the size of yarn or roving : For the cotton hank number 
(840 yards per hank.) Divide 250 by the weight of 30 yards in 
grains. 

Example. — What is the size of yarn 30 yards of which weigh 25 

grains ? 

25o-j-25=No. 10. 

Some cotton spinners weigh the roving by a system of 560 yards 
per hank, and only the yarn by the above rule ; in this case reel and 
weigh 20 yards instead of thirty. In reeling roving great care must 
be taken not to stretch it, or let it hang loose. A good way to 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 21 

measure is with a board say 3 ft. 4 in. long, 8 or 10 inches wide, lay 
the desired number of rovings upon this board full length; upon 
this lay another board exactly 3 feet long, cut off the projecting ends 
of the roving at each end, which leaves the exact measure under the 
board with the natural tension. No reeling will always give the 
same tension so nearly as this method when carefully done. 

For the worsted hank Nos. 560 yards per hank, divide 250 by the 
weight of 20 yards in grains. 

Example. — What is the size number of yarn, 20 yards of which 
weigh 25 grains ? 

25O-r-25=N0. 10. 

Another method is to use a weight of 12^ grains, then the number 
of yards required to balance this weight represents the number of 
the size. 

Example. — No. 10 yarn would require 10 yards to balance 12^ 
grains. Above example proves this because we then found that 20 
yards weighed 25 grains. 

To test woolen yarn (1600 yards per run) : Divide 210 by the 
weight of 48 yards in grains. 

Example. — What is the size number in runs of a yarn 48 yards of 
which weigh 30 grains. 

210-5-30=7 run. 

To ascertain the size of roving needed for the size of yarn 
wanted : Multiply the yarn size by 5 and divide by 3 for grain 
numbers, for runs, worsted and cotton numbers reverse ; multiply 
by 3 and divide by 5. 

Note. — This is only a general rule. It is impossible to give a short rule from 
which it will not be necessary to deviate often. The above is for a single roving. 
When two rovings are spun into one thread some spinners reverse the rule. Many 
woolen spinners want nearly all their rovings about double the size of the yarn 
to be. 

The importance of universal uniformity in the methods for at- 
taining and designating yarn numbers is thoroughly realized by those 
who have met with difficulties arising from a different course ; it 
would seem that any one might comprehend the benefits thereof. 
The following from a lecture by Thomas R. Ashenhurst may help to 
convince some : 

"Worsted yarns are calculated by the hank of 560 yards, made 
up in the following manner. By the old system of reeling, all 
worsted was reeled or made into hanks upon a reel of one yard cir- 



2 2 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

cumference ; at the end of the reel was attached an indicator, which 
was so arranged that at every 80 revolutions of the reel it gave a 
rap or snap, consequently 80 yards was termed one rap. At each 
rap the reel was moved slightly to one side, so that the next rap was 
wound separately, and so on until seven raps had been made, then 
the seven raps were made up into one hank, consequently seven raps 
of 80 yards each gives 560 yards for one hank. To indicate the 
counts of the yarn, as many hanks of 560 yards each as weigh one 
pound avoirdupois, is termed the counts, thus if 30 hanks weigh 1 
pound the yarn is termed 3o's, if 40 hanks weigh 1 pound the yarn 
is 40 's, and so on. This in itself is not a very difficult system of 
calculation to deal with, but to make it a little more intricate, 
worsted yarn is usually sold by the gross (in England). The gross 
consists of 12 dozen or 144 hanks, so that on purchasing yarn of a 
given count by the gross it requires a little calculation to find what 
price per pound you are paying for the yarn. 

In cotton yarns, a similar system of indicating the counts of the 
yarn prevails, but instead of the hank of cotton being 560 yards as 
in worsted, it consists of 840 yards. The length of the cotton hank 
is determined in the same manner as the worsted hanks, the differ- 
ence in the length of the hank being brought about by the differ- 
ence in the circumference of the reel, being 54 inches or i-J yards in 
circumference, instead of 1 yard as in worsted. The same number 
of revolutions make one rap, and the same number of raps one 
hank. Hence the cotton hank is one half longer than the worsted 
or 840 yards instead of 560. The number of hanks per pound indi- 
cates the counts, so that if we take the same counts of yarn in cot- 
ton and worsted, one will represent half as many more yards per 
pound as the other. 

Spun silks are calculated on the same basis as cotton, the same 
number of yards per hank, and the hanks per pound indicating the 
counts. There is one important difference between silk and the 
other two materials I have named, which requires to be borne very 
carefully in mind in making a calculation. This difference refers 
to twofold yarns. When speaking of twofold cotton or worsted, the 
actual counts of the yarn is only half of what it is termed, thus in 
speaking of twofold 6o's cotton or worsted the actual counts of the 
varn is 30's, simply because it is two threads of 6o's put together, 
making one thread of double the weight. So that if the yarn in its 
original or single state required 60 hanks to weigh 1 pound, when 
two threads are put together only 30 hanks would be required to 
weigh 1 pound. But in dealing with spun silk whatever the counts 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 23 

of the yarn is called whether single or twofold, it requires the full 
number of hanks per pound. Thus, if we speak of 6o's silk, whether 
single or twofold, we should have 60 hanks per pound. At first sight 
it would seem rather difficult to indicate in a ready manner this dif- 
ference, but the method of writing the counts sufficiently represents 
this, at least to those who are acquainted with it. In writing two- 
fold 6o's in worsted or cotton it is usually put 2|6o's, thus indicating 
that the yarn is two threads of 6o's, but in silk it is written 6o|2, 
showing clearly that yarn is still 6o's though a twofold yarn. Of 
course, to anyone uninitiated, this difference might not be sufficiently 
clear, and one can easily understand numerous mistakes being 
made by anyone not perfectly familiar with the system. Though it 
may be difficult to understand why such a difference of system 
should exist, there is no doubt it does exist, and exists as one of 
the abuses with which I wish to deal. 

While spun silks are calculated on the same basis as cotton — with 
the exception I have pointed out in twofold yarns, — raw silks are 
calculated on a totally different basis. The system most generally 
in use for raw silk is the hank of 1,000 yards, and the number of 
hanks per ounce indicating the counts, or in some cases the number 
of deniers which the hank weighs indicates the number of counts. 
But here again we find some difficulty in determining what is 
meant by the denier. The value of this weight has been variously 
estimated. If we refer to the " Cabinet Cyclopcedia " published by 
Messrs. Longman, in 183 1, we shall find in the treatise on the silk 
manufacture that in reeling silk " A reel so constructed as that the 
circumference of a skein wound upon it shall be of a certain known 
admeasurement, is made to perform a given number of revolutions, 
usually 400, when the skein is accurately weighed. The comparative 
weights of silk whereby their fineness is denoted, are estimated in 
weights called deniers, 20 of which are equal to 16^ grains." Here 
we have some sort of data for the value of the denier, but nothing 
reliable for the length of the skein. Mr. B. F. Cobb, the Secretary 
of the Silk Supply Association, does not enlighten us much upon this 
matter. In his " Treatise on Silk " in the " British Manufacturing 
Industries " series, published by Stanford, 1876, he says, " Its fine- 
ness is not entirely judged by the eye, but by weighing a given 
length, generally 400 revolutions of a reel made for the purpose, the 
weight being expressed by a technical weight termed "denier," 200 
of which are equal to 16^ grains." I think it is more than probable 
the 200 here given is a misprint and should have been 20. In that 
case the weight of the denier would be precisely the same as the 



24 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

one I before quoted. But Mr. Cobb does not give us the circum- 
ference of the reel, so that we are no nearer. Before we go any 
further in the matter of the length, we might examine a little further 
into the value of the denier. The weight of the denier as given by 
the " Cabinet Cyclopedia," and by Mr. Cobb (assuming that the 
200 is a misprint for 20), would be equal to 0.825 °f an English 
grain.. The celebrated Dr. Ure in his " Philosophy of Manufacture," 
says, he understood the denier to be equal to 0.693 °f an English 
grain, but upon testing a denier weight he found it to be equal to 
0.833 °f a grain. Mr. Simmonds, in his Appendix to the " Philoso- 
phy of Manufactures" says, " The custom of the trade is to reckon 
32 deniers to a dram, and that the standard of silk measure is about 
400 yards, that length of a single filament of China Cocoons will 
weigh two deniers, and of French or Italian about 2-g-." Reckoning 
the denier on the basis of 32 to equal one dram avoirdupois, the 
weight of the denier would be 0.854 of a grain, or a little heavier 
than the weight found by Dr. Ure, and that given by the " Cabinet 
Cyclopedia " and Mr. Cobb. 

In Macclesfield 530 deniers are equal to an ounce, and 530 yards 
the standard length to weigh. If we take the Macclesfield standard, 
that will give us the weight of the denier as equal to 0,8245 of a 
grain. I think it is more than probable that this will be the correct 
weight of the denier, the standard of length reeled and the standard 
of weight being both based upon 530, and we find that the other 
weights are so nearly approximate to it. Then if we take the 530 
yards and 400 revolutions of the reel we shall find the circumfer- 
ence of the reel to be as nearly as possible four feet (47yV inches). 
This seems to be the most reliable data to which we can turn, and 
although our conclusions are unsatisfactory, we have no means of 
arriving at anything better, and difficult as this matter is to deal 
with, I shall show you that difficulties are not confined to the silk 
trade alone. This difficulty in silk calculation is now somewhat 
obviated by the adoption in many places, of the system of counting 
by the number of 1000 yards per ounce. 

The Linen Trade is the only one which is regulated by law in 
England, and that regulation only refers to the length of the hank, or 
cut; the circumference of the linen reel is 90 inches, and 120 
revolutions makes one lea, (or what is termed in worsted and cot- 
ton " rap,") consequently 300 yards make one lea, generally the 
number of leas per pound indicates the counts, but I shall show you 
presently that although 300 yards is always taken as the basis there 
are local customs in this material as well. 



SHTZLI'S MANUAL. 25 

We now come to deal with the material in which perhaps the 
greatest diversity exists, vis. : Woolen. If we take all the woolen 
manufacturing districts of England and Scotland, we shall scarcely 
find any two which have the same system of calculation, and the 
difference of systems exists not only between district and district, 
but in some cases between town and town, or village and village. 

It would be impossible for me, even if I was intimately acquainted 
with all the various systems to enter into them in detail, in the time 
at my disposal. I shall therefore select a few for the purpose of com- 
parison. I will begin with those near home, as they will probably 
have most interest for you, and will be most likely to be useful. 

Generally speaking (in England at least), woolen yarns are calcu- 
lated by the skein, but the skein, like some of the other units of cal- 
culation I have shown you, is a variable quantity, representing a dif- 
ferent quantity in different districts, and in many cases only very 
imperfectly understood. If you go into the town of Huddersfield, 
and ask a number of people what is a skein, you will probably 
receive a variety of answers. At least you will receive two. One 
will say, " A skein is one yard." Another will say, " A skein is 
1536 yards " And if you ask them how they ascertain the counts 
of the yarn the answer will be " by the number of yards in one 
drachm." In one sense perhaps we might say that both the answers 
to the first question are correct. As a matter of calculation they 
would both give the same result. What is commonly known as the 
Yorkshire skein system, and as practised at Huddersfield and Leeds, 
is based upon the old system of preparing the wool for spinning, by 
what is known as the " Slubbing Billy." By this system the wool 
had to be weighed in small quantities, and each weighing was 
termed a " Wartern ;" this wartern was not one universal weight, but 
in the system we have under consideration was 6 pounds, thus as 
each pound avoirdupois contains 256 drachms, 6 pounds contains 
1536 drachms. Therefore, the number of yards in one skein equals 
the number of drachms in one " wartern." Thus if one " wartern " 
makes only one skein of yarn the counts of that yarn would be i's, 
but if one wartern makes 20 skeins then the counts of the yarn 
would be 20's. Consequently there being the same number of yards 
in one skein as there are drachms in one " wartern," as many yards 
of yarn as weigh one drachm, so must the same number of skeins 
of necessity weigh one " wartern." This being the case no matter 
what we may take as the weight of the wartern, if we keep the same 
number of yards per skein, as we have drachms per wartern, the 
yards per drachm must always indicate the counts of the yarn. 



26 SHTZLI'S MANUAL. 

The weight of a wartern does vary, but upon this principle the 
counts of the yarn will be the same. 

Sometimes woolen yarn is reckoned by the hank of 840 yards in 
the same manner as cotton, but generally when this is done the 
number of hanks per pound does not indicate the counts, but one- 
third is added, thus if there are 20 hanks per pound it would be 
termed 30's, or making it exactly equal to worsted. If we take the 
west of England system of woolen calculation we find it different 
from these. There the calculation is based upon 20 yards per 
ounce, or 320 yards per pound, so that as many times 20 yards as 
weigh one ounce, that is termed the counts of the yarn. Thus, if 
there are 400 yards (20 times 20 yards) per ounce, it would 
be termed 20 skein yarn. Another system which prevails, and 
which if I remember right is known as the " Cumberland bunch 
Count," determines the count of the yarn by the ounces weight of a 
bunch of 3,360 yards. This bunch is equal to four cotton hanks, or, 
six worsted hanks, and originated in the old system of tying up the 
yarn in bunches of so many hanks each. Again, nearer home we 
have the Dewsbury system, based upon the number of yards per 
ounce. 

If we go to Scotland we find as great, if not greater, diversity 
existing. At Galashiels the counts is based upon the cut of 300 
yards each in a pound of 24 ounces, or 384 drachms. At Hawick 
it is based upon the pound of 26 ounces, or 416 drachms, the cut of 
300 yards being the standard unit. At Alva and Stirling; Dundee 
and Aberdeen, the spindle is the basis of calculation, and the 
pounds weight of the spindle indicates the counts of yarn. In the 
spindle as in all the other units of calculation, we have a variable 
quantity. The Aberdeen spindle, as used for the woolen and linen 
trades consists of 14,400 yards, or equal to 48 cuts or linen leas of 
300 yards each. The reel upon which the yarn is reeled is 90 
inches, and the table of lengths runs as follows : 

120 Threads (90 inches each) = 1 Cut = 300 yards. 

2 Cuts = 1 Heer = 600 " 

3 Heers... = 1 Slip = 1,800 " 

2 Slips .- = 1 Hank = 3,600 " 

2 Hanks = 1 Hesp = 7,200 " 

2 Hesps. = 1 Spindle =14,400 " 

Or, to put the matter briefly, the counts of the yarn is the pounds 
which 48 leas of 300 yards each weigh, so that i's or 1 pound yarn 
would be equal to 48 leas per pound, or 900 yards per ounce. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 27 

The Dundee spindle (except for linen yarns when it is the same 
as Aberdeen), consists of 15,120 yards, and the weight of the 
spindle indicates the counts of the yarn, and is expressed in similar 
terms to the Aberdeen counts, as so many pounds yarn. This 
spindle is made up of 18 hanks of 840 yards each, so that 1 pound 
of yarn would be equal to 18 hanks of 840 yards each per pound. 

The Alva and Stirling spindle consists of 11,520 yards, and the 
counts indicated by the number of spindles in 24 pounds, or 480 
yards per pound. 

I think I have now dwelt sufficiently on the different systems, I 
will endeavor to put the matter before you now in a different form, 
so that you can more easily make a comparison. Most of you are 
familiar with what is called 20's yarn. Of course 20's yarn may 
exist in all the different systems I have shown you. Then if we 
take 20's in all the different systems, and see how many yards per 
pound we should have in each case, we shall have a fair standard of 
comparison. The list is as follows : 

Worsted . ... 20's = 11,200 yards per lb. 

Cotton " =16,800 " 

Spun Silk : " =16,800 " 

Raw " " =320,000 

Linen (ordinary) . " = 6,000 " " 

Woolen (Yorkshire Skein) " = 5,120 " 

" (West of England) " = 6,400 " 

" (Dewsbury) " = 320 " " 

(Bunch Count)... " = 2,688 " 

Aberdeen... " = 720 " " 

Dundee " =302, 400 " " 

Alva and Stirling ._ " = 9,600 " " 

From this it will be seen that by the 12 different systems of 
counting yarns which I have given you, for a yarn which is known 
by the same number, the weight varies from 320 yards per pound to 
320,000 yards per pound. If that is not an absurdity in figures, I 
am afraid it would be difficult to find one in existence, either in the 
textile trade or in any other department of industry. 

Before leaving this branch of the subject, I will make one more 
comparison. I will again take 20's worsted as my standard, as it 
will be most familiar to you. Taking the number of yards in one 
pound of 20's worsted, let us see what counts that number of yards 
per pound would represent in all those different systems. 20's 



28 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

worsted is equal to 11,200 yards per pound, that number of yards 
per pound would give us in 

Cotton Counts 13^ 

Spun Silk " 131T 

Raw " 700 or r \ 

Linen (ordinary).. " 37^ 

Woolen (Yorkshire Skein). " 42f 

(West of England) " 24$ 

" (Dewsbury) " 700 

(Bunch Count) " fi 

Aberdeen " if lb. yarn. 

Dundee " i^ f 

Alva and Stirling " 174 

Galashiels - " 44I 

Hawick.. " 48^ 

From these figures we see at once the relative value of the counts 
in the different systems of calculation, and also how much the unit 
of counts varies in different districts. It will also enable you to 
understand in some degree the difficulty of speaking of counts, unless 
the number of the yarn is accompanied by an explanation of the 
system by which the counts are indicated. If I was to speaks of 20 
skein woolen in Bradford, only a comparative few would under- 
stand what was meant. Or 20 skein woolen Yorkshire count would 
be unintelligible to a great many west of England manufacturers. 

There is one other branch of the subject to which I must call 
your attention, viz., the reeling or testing of yarns. Of course it 
must be obvious that in ascertaining the counts of yarn you cannot 
always have at hand as much yarn as will represent the standard 
unit of weight by which the yarn is indicated. If so you would 
always require 1 pound of cotton, worsted or silk, and 6 pounds of 
woolen ; whereas, in many cases only a very small quantity is avail- 
able. Then some small weight must be found which will readily 
indicate the counts of the yarn. In woolen (Yorkshire skein) this 
is quite easy, because the number of yards in one drachm indicates 
the number of skeins in one wartern, so that only one drachm need 
to be weighed. But in worsted and cotton this is not quite so easy. 
The readiest method is to reduce the pound avoirdupois to Troy 
grains and divide that by the yard in one hank, thus 7,000 Troy 
grains are equal to 1 pound avoirdupois ; the 7,000 divided by 560 
the yards in one hank would give us I2-J grains, consequently, as 
many yards as weigh 12^ grains, so many hanks of 560 yards each 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 29 

will weigh one pound avoirdupois. If we require a weight for cot- 
ton or spun silk, then divide 7,000 by 840, and we have 8^ grains as 
a standard weight for testing cotton. This is perhaps as great an 
absurdity as exists in the whole system of yarn counting, indicating 
the counts of yarn by an unit of avoirdupois, and testing it by 
Troy weight. Yet it is the method most generally practised, and is 
certainly under existing circumstances, in most cases, the most con- 
venient. 

In dealing with twofold yarns a somewhat peculiar, or at least 
what appears to be a peculiar, system of calculation comes into use. 
If the two threads which are put together are each of the same • 
thickness the calculation is quite simple, because it makes a thread 
of double the weight, and consequently would be termed half the 
counts; thus two -threads of 6o's would make a 30's thread, or 
equal to 30 hanks per pound. At first sight it would seem that if 
two threads of 6o's make one of 3o's that one of 8o's and one of 
40's together would also make one equal to 30's, but in point of 
fact that is not the case. If we take one hank of 8o's worsted we 
shall find it weighs 3.2 drachms; and a hank of 40's worsted weighs 
6.4 drachms. If we put those two together as one thread we have 
a hank weighing 9.6 drachms, and 9.6 drachms is the weight of a 
hank of yarn which would be equal to 26f hanks per pound. Con- 
sequently the counts of a two-fold thread consisting of 8o's and 
40's would not be 30's but 26f's. There are several so called short 
methods of ascertaining the counts of two-fold yarns of this de- 
scription. One is to divide the highest by itself, and by each of 
the others and then by the quotients added, and the last quotient 
will be the counts of the doubled yarn, thus — 

8o-i-8o=i 
80 -5-40=2 

8o-r-3 = 26§ the counts of the two- 
fold yarn. This rule will answer when any number of threads 
of varying counts are put together ; and in many cases will un- 
doubtedly prove a very convenient one, because it is easy of appli- 
cation. Another method is to divide the product of the two 

counts by their sum, thus- =26f. This will answer the pur- 

80 + 40 r 

pose quite as well as the previous one, but only when two threads are 

put together. It will perhaps be as well to examine this a little 

more fully. The whole question resolves itself into one of simple 

proportion. When we put two threads together the resulting thread 



30 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

bears the same proportion to the lowest count which the highest 
does to the sum of the two ; or, in other words, we have in the 
counts of each thread two mean proportionals ; the sum of the two 
is one extreme, and the resulting count is the other extreme pro- 
portional, thus taking again the 80 and 40 the sum of the two is 
120, then as 120 : 80 "40 : 26§. This holds true of any material, or 
of any method of counting. As a proof of this we will suppose 
two threads of woolen twisted together, say a 20 and a 30 skein 
(Yorkshire count); the sum of those two would be 50, then 
50 : 30 :: 20 : 12, or 12's skein would be the counts of the resulting 
thread. Of course it may be put in the form I gave it before, that 
is divide the product of the two numbers by their sum, thus 

■zo X 20 

6 ■ =12. 

3O + 2O 

They both mean the same thing ; it is merely a different way of 
stating the question. The same remark also applies to dividing the 
highest by itself and by the other, thus 

30-5-30=1 

30-7-20=1-^ 

30-j-2-g-=I2. 

I should prefer putting the question as one of proportion direct, 
because it is easier to remember and bears its own truth on the face 
of it. But to prove that those two woolen threads I have given 
would produce one equal to 12 skein we will take the smallest con- 
venient unit of length as a standard of test. I have already told 
you that the number of yards per drachm represents the count 
skein, then 

20 yards of 20's would weigh 1 drachm. 

20 " 30's " § " 

20 " of the double thread if " 

Consequently 20 yards weighing if drachms would be exactly 
equal to 12 yards to one drachm; therefore the counts of the 
doubled yarn must be 12's. If we have a greater number of threads 
than two together it becomes a question of continued proportion, 
but perhaps of a kind which will appear a little peculiar to many. 
For instance, when we are dealing with two threads the counts of 
the threads produced by doubling is a fourth proportional lower. 
If we put three threads together it would seem as if the resulting 
thread would be a fifth proportional lower, or that the sum of the 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 3 I 

three would be one extreme, and the results of the counts the other 
extreme. But this is not so in the ordinary sense of double propor- 
tion, although it would be truly a double proportion. You could 
not multiply the three numbers together and divide by their sum. 
I will give you an example of this : Suppose we put three threads, 
one each of 80, 60 and 40 together, we should have a yarn equal to 
18/3. If we seek this result by proportion we shall not obtain it so 
readily as by the first method I mentioned. To put the matter 
clearly, I will find the result of the first two threads, thus 80 and 
60=140. Then 140: 80 :: 60: 34^. The third thread 40 and 34f= 
74f ; then 74! : 40 "34f : i8 T 6 g the counts of the three threads 
together. Before we proceed further we will prove the truth of this. 
One hank of 8o's worsted would weigh 3.2 drachms, one hank of 6o's 
would weigh 4.26 drachms, and one hank of 40's would weigh 6.4; 
then 3 24-4.26 + 6.4=13.86 drachms as the weight of one hank of 
the three-fold yarn. 

One hank weighing 13.86 drachms would be 18/3 counts, or there 
would be that number of hanks in one pound. Then let us see how 
to obtain the result desired by the short method. 

80 divided by 80=1 

80 " 6o=ii 

80 " 40=2 



80 " 4i=i8 T 6 3 

If we have any number of threads to put together we may obtain 
the counts resulting by either of these methods, but generally speak- 
ing the last will be found the most convenient. 

In all the calculations I have given I must ask you to bear in 
mind that I have made no allowance for waste or shrinkage. That 
is a matter which can only be determined by practice. If you are 
making a calculation for the quantity of material in a piece of 
fabric, to lay down a fixed proportion to allow for waste and 
shrinkage would only be misleading, because it would vary, not only 
according to the nature of the material but also according to the 
construction of the fabric. In the same manner on twisting two 
threads together there is a certain amount of shrinkage caused by 
the threads twisting around each other. Perhaps a fair average 
allowance might be fixed upon, but it could never be anything but 
an approximate calculation. The amount of shrinkage or, as it is 
generally termed, " take-up" in twisting two threads depends in no 
small measure upon the contiguity of the axis of the threads ; for 
instance, if you take two threads of soft flexible material they will 



32 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

embed themselves in each other, their axes will be nearly close 
together, and there will be very little loss of length by their twisting 
round each other; but if the threads are of a hard inflexible 
material there must be considerable " take-up," because the threads 
have to wind round each other, their axes cannot come near 
together, and the result is a proportionately heavier thread. If we 
put a thick and thin or fine thread together, unless the thick thread 
is of a very soft material, the fine thread will be wound upon the 
thick one in all probability — they will not twist round each other. 
In that case all the " take-up" would be in the fine thread, and the 
thick one would be perfectly straight, so that in making a calcula- 
tion the circumstance of the case would require to be carefully con- 
sidered, so as to ensure perfectly accurate results. The object I 
have had in view has been to show the readiest method of arriving 
at result, and to point out some of the absurdities of the different 
systems of calculation. It would be difficult to estimate the amount 
of time that is wasted in making calculations, and in these times of 
severe competition it is of the utmost importance that the time of 
both employer and employed should be utilized to the utmost. 
Not only is it important from a business point of view that calcula- 
tions should be simplified to the utmost, but I apprehend that the 
man who can go through his work with the least labor, mentally as 
well as physically, is not only the most valuable man to his em- 
ployer, but he is better in every way, because by simplifying his 
labor there must be less strain, and consequently less wear and 
tear of the human system ; and he will be able to work longer, with 
more comfort, and end his labor with more pleasure than he could 
otherwise do. 

We have in this department alone a wide field for improvement. 
It is scarcely conceivable that so many systems could exist; and 
small as the matter may seem to an ordinary observer, yet it is one 
of great importance. If a manufacturer in one district should find 
it necessary to purchase yarn from another district, he has to deal 
with a system of calculating that yarn which is quite foreign to that 
which he is accustomed to. If a workman finds it desirable or 
convenient to remove from one town to another, he has first to 
learn their system of calculation. Is there any reason for this 
diversity of system ? Whatever may have been the reason or the 
object of all these systems when they originated, surely the same 
reasons cannot have much weight now ; but many arguments 
might be adduced in favor of unformity. It would not be a diffi- 
cult matter to find a great deal to complain of in our whole 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. $$ 

system of weights and measures ; but in one department of indus- 
try it seems almost inconceivable that all these systems, whatever 
may have been their origin, can be allowed to exist. There can be 
no doubt that uniformity would do a great deal in promoting busi- 
ness intercourse between different districts, because we should then 
know how to estimate the value of the article in which we were 
dealing. There is little doubt that this uniformity will be attained. 
Education will do a great deal towards it ; and I have confident 
hopes that we shall see the day when we shall have one standard 
unit by which to reckon all our yarns ; and that this standard will 
be arranged upon some intelligent basis, so that the mystery which 
has usually attended textile calculations will be put an end to, and 
we shall have it so simplified that every one whose duty it may be 
to make those calculations will be able to do it with ease and 
comfort. 

Scales. — Measuring and weighing scales are needed about fac- 
tories in great variety. Of measuring scales, there are none more 
important than a finely graduated scale which may be used to 
measure patterns, count threads, turns of twist, &c, &c, with the 
naked eye. For many purposes a common pocket rule may answer, 
but for others a much more convenient gauge or scale is necessary 
to make sure of accurate work. Likewise the scales necessary to 
use in combination with magnifying glasses and microscopes, should 
be well adapted to the many kinds of work to be done with them. 
Linen provers, with or without lenses, may be considered in this 
class. Linen provers should be purchased in combination with 
some firm and convenient contrivance for permitting the reflection 
of strong light through the fabric to be examined. Many thin fab- 
rics can be examined easily with such an improvement to linen 
provers, whereas without them they would be as difficult as any 
heavier piece. 

Scales for weighing should be very delicately constructed to meet 
the designer's requirements. Of scales of all kinds used in fac- 
tories, as of many other articles, it may safely be asserted that the 
best are always the cheapest. By the best we do not mean the 
dearest, although very good and fine scales are expensive, but such 
as may be depended upon for accuracy and durability, without ex- 
tra or unnecessary ornamentation. 



15 



34 



SPTTZLI'S MANUAL. 



Yorkshire. 


American. 


Roved, 


Double Spun. 


Porties, 


Porters. 


Slay, 


Reed. 


Reed, 


Dent or Split. 


Heald, 


Heddles. 


Shafts, 


Harnesses. 


Picks, 


Picks. 


Gear, 




Neezes, 


Heddle Eyes. 


Hopsack, 


Celtic. 



Scotch, English and American Terms. — 

South of Scotland. 

Twice Drawn, 

Porters, 

Reed, 

Split, 

Heddle, 

Leaves, 

Shots, 

Caulm, 

Heddle Eyes, 

Celtic, 

Table of Measures. — 
i Cut=3oo yards=io,8oo inches. 
i Slip=i2 cuts=36oo yards, 
i Ell, relating to caulm and reed=37 inches. 

i Ell, relating to warp yarns in warping and weaving=45 inches. 
1 Porter=4o threads. Hawick knot=8o threads, 
i Porter, 2 in split, of any reed=2o splits. Originally all webs 

were 2 threads in split. 
1 Porter, 4 in split, of any reed=io splits. 

1 " 3 " " ; 13* " 

The number of a reed is the number of porters on 37 inches, 
thus a 20 reed is 20 times 20=400 splits on 37 inches; an 18 
reed is 18 times 20=360 splits on 37 inches; and soon with 
all the other numbers of reeds. 



Machine Wool Weight. 
1 oz.=i6 drachms. 
1 lb. = 16 oz.^256 drachms. 
1 stone=24lbs.=6i44 drachms. 



Yarn Greasy Weight. 

1 oz.=i6 drachms. 

1 lb. =24 oz.=384 drachms. 

1 lb. Hawick 26 oz. = 4i6 
drachms. 

Skein, 1520 yards=i porty, 12 strings long. 

Werturn, 6 lbs. =1536 drachms. 

String=i2o inches. 

Porty==38 threads. 

Sett in slay is the number of porties of 19 reeds in 9 inches. The 
number of skeins is the number of yards in a drachm, thus 10 
skein of yarn is 10 yards in a drachm, 12 skeins=i2 yards in a 
drachm, and so on ; and is related to Galaxby i t 4 j ; but the 
Yorkshire skein is asXby i ¥ 7 j, being a slight deviation for 
convenience in calculation by the werturn of 6 lbs.=i536 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 35 

drachms, instead of 1520 yards, 1 skein. The yarn is, there- 
fore, finer or longer by 16 yards in a werturn than it is given 
up for. 
For rules to find equivalent quantities, in various English sys- 
tems, see Johnston's " Hand-Book for Designers." 

Sizing. — The most important considerations upon which success- 
ful sizing depends are : 

1. The quality and kind of the ingredients. 

2. The mode of preparing the size. 

3. The method and extent of application. 

The vegetable ingredients used, such as flour, potato starch, etc., 
are valued for sizing according to the amount of gluten they con- 
tain, notwithstanding starch plays the most important part. The 
following table shows the comparative richness in gluten and starch 
of five kinds of grain : 

Wheat. 

Gluten and Albumen. 19- 15 

Starch 65.68 

Febrine, Gum, Sugar. 14.09 
Saline Matter or Ash. 0.70 

In damaged flour the gluten may be only deprived of its elasticity, 
or it may be entirely destroyed. 

Indian corn contains more fatty matter than any other grain, and 
rice less. 

Tallow must be used for some purposes, but it is liable to induce 
mildew. 

Cocoa-nut oil is inferior to tallow on account of its liability to 
become rancid. 

Palm oil is more extensively used than cocoa-nut oil, and is much 
better. 

China-Clay. — " It would be difficult to find a substitute for this 
important ingredient of size, or one that possesses the same com- 
bination of useful properties. I need only state, for the benefit of 
the uninformed, that it is not, as they generally suppose, a quantity 
of rubbish introduced solely for the purpose of weighting, but its 
unctuous and soft nature is taken advantage of in providing what 
might be called a soapy coating to the warp well adapted for weav- 
ing ; at the same time it can be made to fulfil the other require- 
ments in a very efficient manner, filling the fibre and giving a " feel " 
to the cloth hard to obtain by other means. In this it acts a purely 



Indian 








Corn. 


Rice. 


Rye. 


Barley. 


12-3 


12.76 


9.48 


6. 24 


71- 


86.9 


6l .07 


69-5 


O.4 


0-5 


3.28 





1.2 


0.9 









36 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

mechanical part by rendering the paste of the flour less persistent, 
it prevents that too powerful shrinking of the size when dried on 
hot cylinders, which has the effect of contracting the yarn. Its 
specific gravity also better adapts it for use than many of the heavier 
mineral substances, such as barytes, &c, which have been recom- 
mended, as it is less liable to settle or cake, stopping up the holes 
in the boiling pipes. It is a matter of very considerable importance 
to select a good quality of China-clay, called by potters ' fat clay.' " 
— E. Webb, in Warp Sizing. 

A good clay for sizing will yield about the following proportions 
in analysis : 

Silica _. 46.32 

Alumina 39-74 

Protoxide of Iron .27 

Lime .36 

Magnesia .44 

Water and some Alkali 12.67 

Loss -20 



Chloride or Muriate of Zinc, or Zinc Size. — When properly pre- 
pared possesses properties of great value to the warp-sizer. Igno- 
rance has brought it into disrepute, but for some classes of warp siz- 
ing it is indispensable. In preparing it, however, a practical knowl- 
edge of chemistry is necessary. (See E. Webb on Warp Sizing.) 

Chloride of Magnesia. — The use of this salt is now more common 
than formerly when covered with several patents, but it has not, 
and probably cannot afford, all the benefits expected from and 
claimed for it. It is more liable to mildew than chloride of zinc. 
The mode of preparing the size should be governed largely by the 
ingredients used, and result desired. The application of sizing is a 
practical question varying materially in the many uses made of 
sizing. 

Tests. — A long list of tests should be in possession of every 
manager and designer. Without pretending to give such a list a few 
good ones will not be objectionable. 

Soap Tests of Water. — Dissolve a piece of good soap in alcohol 
to thickness of a syrup ; drop this into a sample of water ; if it 
curdles the water is hard ; which means that there are present : car- 
bonic acid, carbonate of lime, iron sulphate of lime, etc., etc. If 
soft it may contain alkalies. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 37 

Acid Test of Indigo Colors. — Nitric acid will turn indigo to a light 
lemon yellow ; logwood to red orange ; Prussian blue to green. 
Do not use the acid too strong. 

To Distinguish Dyes in Colored Goods. — It is often necessary to 
know with what coloring matters a pattern has been dyed. In some 
cases an experienced dyer can soon ascertain, almost at a glance, or 
by simple methods, which dyestuff has been employed ; but with 
many colors this is sometimes impossible. Especially is this the 
case with blue dyed fabrics, in which it is not easy to say whether a 
pattern has been dyed with vat indigo alone, or has been topped 
with cheaper stuff. This detection can be made by a chemical 
analysis, the method consisting in destroying one of the coloring 
matters by some reagent, and thus prove its existence by the use of 
the destroying medium. To ascertain which mordant has been 
used, it is only necessary to burn a certain quantity of the fabric, 
and to find out by chemical analysis which oxide was present on 
the fabric. These methods are, however, only of use to chemists ; 
but the following is a simple method that may be employed by any- 
body to determine the coloring matter. To begin with blue 
dyed fabrics. Vat blue, in the first place, is neither affected by 
alkalies nor acids (with the exception of nitric acid). Only 
chlorine and chlorine compounds react on vat blue. A blue dyed 
with sulphate or extract, or carmine of indigo, is readily abstracted 
by boiling water, and even more so by caustic alkalies. Prussian 
blue is easily recognized by using alkalies which destroy it, while 
chlorine and acids have no effect upon it. However, the alkaline 
chlorine compounds of commerce (bleaching powder, etc.) react 
upon it. Goods dyed with logwood give, with acids, a coloration 
more or less yellowish. In case there is another color associated 
with logwood, the latter may be extracted with a large quantity of 
acid. The fabric is then well washed, and the remaining color 
examined. The red colors are more difficult to determine; but 
these colors have not the same importance as the blues. Colors 
dyed with cochineal and Brazil wood (which, however, every dyer 
can easily distinguish) become gooseberry red when treated with 
muriatic acid. If it is washed, and then passed through milk of 
lime, a pretty loose violet is obtained. Madder red, treated exactly 
in the same way, and after the milk of lime bath boiled with soap, 
acquires a more intense color. Cochineal red and Brazil wood red 
can be easily distinguished by means of oxalic acid, cochineal red 
becoming brighter, while the other is more or less destroyed. 
Black, which is generally dyed by two methods, either with iron or 



38 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

chrome, when treated with chlorine, is destroyed if dyed with iron ; 
but, if a chrome black, resists to a certain extent, only becoming- 
chestnut brown, even with strong treatment. To distinguish other 
colors there are many methods, which are, however, too complicated 
to be mentioned here. Aniline colors require greater chemical 
knowledge to distinguish them from each other. 

Character of Animal Fibers. — " Fibers having an animal origin do 
not burn, like those of the vegetable kingdom, with a continuous 
flame, but ignite with a sort of fusion, and exhale a nauseating 
odor, similar to that of burning horn, while forming a carbonized 
ball on the extremity of the thread. Subjected to a dry distillation, 
animal fibers reject some tarry composition containing carbonate of 
ammonia, which can be recognized by its peculiar odor and by its 
alkaline property of bluing litmus-paper. It is a gelatinous 
albuminious compound, containing the following constituents : 

Carbon 5°-75 

Hydrogen 7 - °3 

Azote 17.71 

Oxygen Sulphur 25.51=100.00 

Wool, as it is used specially, contains a notable proportion of sul- 
phur, which will manifest itself under proper conditions. Thus, 
subjected to 148 Centigrade, wool will evolve sulphur readily; also 
on boiling it in water. 

It is the action of this sulphur which blackens the wool in high 
temperature, especially if brought in contact with some metallic 
substance, such as acetate of lead, protochloride of tin, or with any 
metallic surfaces. In a boiling solution of nitrate of lead, wool gets 
covered with sulphate of lead, and becomes instantly black. These 
facts are important to know for the management of the dyeing 
operations. Alkali can remove the sulphur in the wool. In the 
great carpet factory of the Gobelins all the wool yarn in hanks is 
subjected for twenty-four hours to a milk of lime bath, after which 
to a chlorhydric acid bath, followed finally by a water washing. 
Animal fibers are sensitive to the action of caustic alkali. These 
agents must not be concentrated for wool. Carbonate of soda will 
not injure wool, but caustic soda will. Sulphuric acid concentrated 
decomposes silk rapidly, also wool and hair ; but diluted with water 
it produces some interesting effects. For instance, any wool cloth 
saturated in a sulphuric acid bath at 2 , will suffer a considerable 
contraction, but will never be attacked by insects. Nitric acid 
produces a yellow tinge on silk, and on wool generating a yellow 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 39 

color called canthoproteic. There is a tendency to utilize this dye- 
ing property in the trade, but it should be rejected as injuring the 
chemical constitution of the fiber. The weak acids act well enough 
on animal fibers for dyeing. For instance, a solution of fuchsin 
with an alkali can dye red, while vegetable fibers could not give 
such a result. — Le Jacquard. 

Tests by which the Mixture of Cotton, Flax or Jute 
in Woolen and Silk Goods may be Detected. — Boil woolen 
or silk goods in ten per cent of caustic soda lye, and the wool or 
silk will be dissolved, leaving the cotton or any other vegetable fiber. 
The undissolved portion may be bleached in chlorine water, if it is 
colored, and then dissolved by cupro-ammonia. 

Woolen and silk, if highly colored, may also be treated with a 
mixture of two parts of sulphuric and one part of nitric acid. The 
wool, silk, and coloring matters will be destroyed, while the cotton 
will be turned into gun cotton, which will explode by being struck 
with a hammer. 

If the woolen or silk is white, an easy test is by a solution of 
fuchsin. This will dye the wool or silk, but not the cotton. All 
sizing must be removed before applying this test, which is best 
accomplished by washing in a weak solution of carbonate of soda 
and in soap, and applying . the fuchsin mixed hot with some 
carbonate of soda. 

To detect wool in silk, a solution of oxide of lead in caustic soda 
can be employed, which turns woolen goods black, owing to the 
sulphur of the wool combining with the lead. 

Silk in wool is shown by its solubility in a cold solution of cupro- 
ammonia — from this solution acids precipitate the silk in flocks. 

Wool is only soluble in cupro-ammonia by aid of heat. Concen- 
trated acids, such as sulphuric, nitric, or preferably hydrochloric, 
act in the cold upon silk, but not on wool. The dissolving 
properties of cupro-ammonia on all vegetable fibers make it one of 
the most useful of tests. It is prepared by suspending strips of 
copper in concentrated ammonia in a large flask, tightly corked, and 
occasionally shaken, so as to bring the metal in contact with the 
oxygen of the air. A good plan is to transfer the contents from 
one flask to another. By degrees a tolerably concentrated solution 
of oxide of copper in ammonia is obtained which dissolves cotton, 
tow, jute, and other vegetable fibers, leaving animal fibers un- 
touched. — From a German work on " The Tests of Fibers" by Prof. 
Emil Kopp. 



40 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

Another means more easily accessible than resort to chemistry, 
for which few than professional analysts would be disposed, is the 
microscope. There is necessarily a vast difference between animal 
and vegetable fibers, and again between the different species of each 
of these classes. This difference, however they may be inter- 
twined, will become at once apparent on the application of powerful 
magnifying lenses. Yet the mere natural appearance must not be 
wholly relied upon. Years since, for instance, the important dis- 
covery was made of the influence of caustic alkali in modifying the 
fiber of cotton By steeping the fiber in a cold solution of caustic 
soda, it loses its flattened ribbon-like form and assumes a more or 
less cylindrical shape. This change gives rise to three remarkable 
effects ; the fiber becomes smaller, it gains in strength and at the 
same time it acquires increased affinity for coloring matter. Then 
it is important to become acquainted with the varieties of different 
species of fiber. Such an accomplishment, in connection with 
chemical and microscopic tests, would undoubtedly be of great 
value to the buyer, especially of many descriptions of continental 
goods. As to durability, the effects of mordants employed should 
not be overlooked. Many of the German fabrics, now competing in 
the home market with our own, by greater apparent cheapness, have 
the defect of being perfectly rotten through the chemical agents 
employed to fix on indifferent material brilliant dyes, especially 
those with a mixture of tints. It is thus not enough that the colors 
are fast. It must be seen that the different materials employed are 
not destructive of the filaments. Many a draper loses his customers 
on this score, and by no fault of his own. A beautiful fabric falls 
to pieces, or tears at the slightest twitch, simply because the dyeing 
materials have eaten into its very substance. This is particularly 
the case with mixed fabrics composed in whole or in part of vegeta- 
ble fibers. — From an English Journal. 

A most instructive and interesting report of scientific tests of 
fabrics may be found in No. 7, Vol. V., of the Bulletin of the 
National Association of Wool Manufacturers, 1875. 

Adulteration of Textile Fabrics. — Mr. Charles Stodder shows, in a 
recent article in an English scientific journal, that in most cases the 
microscope, is an infallible detective of the admixture of base sub- 
stances in textile fabrics, and the cases are few in which it fails to 
be of service. 

The Destruction of Dye-Tubs. — The most rapid destruction of 
wooden dye-houses and dye-tubs is interestingly illustrated in a sim- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 4 1 

pie test. Take separately, in test tubes, a saturated solution of chlo- 
rate of lime, potash, soda ash or chrome, and diluted sulphuric acid, 
say 3 parts water, i part acid. 

Next, get out seven small sticks (from the same piece of wood), 
as near alike in size and condition as possible. Number the sticks. 
Immerse one end of the stick No. i in the lime water. No. 2 in 
the potash liquor. No. 3 in the acid. No. 4, change daily from the 
lime to potash and back again. No. 5, put into the potash and acid 
alternately in like manner. No. 6, into the lime and acid. No. 7, 
alternately into all three. Noting the progress of the influence of 
the chemicals for about ten days, more tubes may be added to con- 
tain the same liquors mixed. 

Boiler Incrustation. — G. E. Davis, in dealing with this subject 
in a recent paper, says that many nostrums had been brought forward 
as preventives which were absolutely worthless, if not positively in- 
jurious. After many trials, he was convinced that as all boiler- 
scales were principally composed of sulphate of lime, tribasic phos- 
phate of soda, the " tripsa" of commerce, was the best, as it absorbed 
the carbonic acid in the water, and, acting on the sulphate of lime, 
precipitated it with the mud to the bottom of the boiler, whence the 
deposit can be removed easily by frequent blowing off. 

Wet Wool Carding. — It is well settled that it is possible to 
card and spin wet wool ; also, that in many cases it is the most 
economical condition of the wool while carding. But a very few 
experiments will satisfy any one that wet wool is easily strained, and 
once strained can never return to its normal state ; also that it is 
quite unnatural for wet wool to draw; furthermore, that if oil be 
added to the wet wool they cannot unite but will separate, some 
fibers taking the moisture, others the oil; therefore, however even- 
ly the separation may be distiibuted the consequence must be in- 
evitable to a greater or less degree, namely twitty yarn. With the 
very best machinery, wool that is oiled while wet, will not make a 
perfect thread. In France this point has been carefully considered, 
and different methods are made use of to remedy the difficulty. 
First, the last liquor through which the wool passes is so strong that 
what remains of it in the wool will unite more readily with the oil 
to be added subsequently. Second, the wool is run through an oil 
composition after washing ; this composition is oil and water thor- 
oughly united. Third, the oil is not added to the wet wool clear, 
but is first saponified and added to the wool in the form of a com- 
position. This all helps, but does not entirely overcome the diffi- 



42 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

culties arising from water upon wool, however treated. Back wash- 
ing, of course, helps the worsted spinner in this respect, if the stock 
is treated with the point in view. The substitute for oil known as 
" Temperlana " in England is a great help also, besides having other 
advantages to commend it. 

Worsted. — The term "worsted" is generally said to be taken from 
a small town in Norfolk, England, where the manufacture, at one time, 
was chiefly conducted. Ducange, in his " Glossarium ad Scrip- 
tores media 1 et infimce Zatinitatis," gives the following etymology : 
" Worstede, lana texia, ab oppido Worsted in comitatu Norfolcienci, 
ejas opificio nobili, sic dicta.'" But the probability would seem to be 
that the town was called after the trade rather than the trade after 
the town, for in the oldest documents the place is denominated 
" Wolstede," the place of wool. 

However this may be, the rapid growth, in Bradford and the 
district which it embraces, of the trade indicated by the word 
" worsted" has been remarkable, and indeed almost unprecedented. 
Wool had long been spun by hand in private houses, but it was not 
till the end of last century that spinning by steam-power was estab- 
lished in Bradford. The first steam-factory in the town was built 
in the year 1800 by Mr. Henry Ramsbotham, father of the present 
Mr. H. R. Ramsbotham of Allerton Hall, near Bradford. 

The nature and processes of the worsted manufacture may next 
be described. 

Wool is divisible into two great classes, according to the length 
of its fiber. Speaking generally, we may say that " long " wool is 
coarser in fiber than " short " wool ; but all long wool is not neces- 
sarily coarse, nor all short wool fine. The specific difference 
between them has been held to be somewhat as follows : Examined 
under the microscope, " short " wool, it is stated, presents the 
appearance of being serrated and imbricated ; in other words, its 
fibres are notched like a saw, and bent over one another, like tiles 
overlapping at the edges. In a fiber of merino wool, an inch in 
length, there are said to be 2,400 of these serrations ; in one of 
Saxony, 2,700; in South Down, 2,080; in Leicester, only 1,860. 
In " long" wool these saw-like cusps or points are less developed ; 
indeed, in some sorts they are nearly altogether wanting. For the 
production of woolen cloth that wool is most suitable which 
possesses the greatest number of these serrations, because it is by 
means of these that the " felting " process, which is the essence of 
such cloth, is accomplished. On the other hand, the specialty of 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 43 

worsted fabrics is, that in them this felting operation is avoided, or 
takes place only to a very limited extent. Instead of the end to be 
attained being the uniform matting and interlacing of the fibers, the 
object is just the opposite, that is to say, the fibers are required to 
be drawn and spread out separately and evenly. This is done by 
means of the comb, which, in all its forms, aims at disjointing each 
separate lock or ringlet of wool, and arranging the fibers longi- 
tudinally. 

English wool comes to Bradford in large bags packed compara- 
tively loosely. Colonial wool, to save freight by lessening bulk, is 
made up before shipment in small square bales, packed by hydraulic 
presses of considerable power, and the wool, subjected to such com- 
pression, becomes matted so closely that it cannot easily be opened 
out. The wool is therefore placed in a sort of oven heated by 
steam ; speedily the tenacious fibers relax their hold, and the mass 
is then easily spread out into the form of the original fleece. 

This fleece is passed on to the wool-sorter's board. It need 
scarcely be said that all the wool on a sheep's back is not of the 
same quality, but varies greatly in length, in fineness and in softness 
of fibre. The practiced eye of the wool-sorter instantly perceives, 
and his nimble fingers deftly separate, these varieties, which are 
thrown into " skeps," or large open wicker baskets, provided for 
each sort. 

The wool, thus " sorted," must next be washed. Iron tanks are 
provided, full of soap and water, kept by steam constantly at a 
high temperature. Into these the wool is thrown, and repeatedly 
drawn through the liquid by iron rakes, which, moved by machinery 
above, expose it completely to the action of the detergent mixture. 
The water is then squeezed out by passing the wool between rollers 
heavily weighted, and the drying process is completed by quickly- 
revolving fans, or drawing the atmosphere through it. 

The raw material is now white and clean. It has next to go 
through what are called " preparing boxes," in order to separate 
the fibres and lay them parallel. "Short " wool passes through the 
carding-machine (" carduus," a thistle, a teazle, was first employed — 
now, iron wire); "long "wool through " screw-gills," or revolving 
leather straps armed with fine iron teeth. It is thus made ready 
for " combing." 

It is needful for the production of " yarn " that all the fibers of 
which each lock or ringlet of wool is composed should be drawn 
out and laid down smooth and distinct; that the shorter fibers 
(which are to be found even in the longest wool) should be removed, 



44 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

and that all extraneous matters — "bits and nibs " the comber calls 
them — should be got rid of. The operation which accomplishes 
these ends is appropriately called " combing." It was formerly 
performed in the houses of the operatives — generally, indeed, in 
their bed-chambers — and was all done by hand. It was necessary 
that the combs should be heated, and for this purpose they were 
placed in an earthen-ware stove, or "pot," as it was called, which 
was kept at a high temperature by burning charcoal in it. The 
wool was oiled to render it more pliable. The vapors generated by 
the charcoal were deleterious in the extreme. Nor was the occupa- 
tion hurtful to the bodily health merely. Dirt and stench produced 
moral as well as physical degeneracy, and the men sought relief 
from the nausea of their work-rooms in the excesses of the ale- 
house. The feeling that there was something essentially wrong in 
the existence of such a state of things led many of the workers to 
give a willing ear to agitators, who increased their discontent, and 
riots occurred on two or three occasions, which rendered it neces- 
sary to call in military aid. 

So far as wool-combing is concerned, this source of demoraliza- 
tion, happily, no longer exists, and that operation, which was for- 
merly the disgrace, is now the glory of the trade. The combing 
machines are marvels of ingenuity and even of elegance. Their 
introduction into Bradford is mainly due to S. C Lister, Esq. It 
is necessary that the carded short wool and the long wool not re- 
quiring carding should be opened out in the direction of the length 
of their fibers, and so formed into a "sliver" or ribbon, and that 
the " noil " or shortest fibers not available for worsted yarn should 
be taken out. Lightly and gently this operation is effected. Passed 
under the action of the long thin spikes of the comb, the locks of 
wool are drawn out in perfectly parallel lines, each " particular hair " 
not " standing on end," but laid down smooth, sleek and shining, and 
the " noil " is quietly passed over into its appointed receptacle. 
And as no mechanical contrivance in the worsted trade is more 
curious and beautiful, so none has been more beneficent in its moral 
influence; for, instead of the co-operation of the workman being 
accompanied, as formerly, by that loss of self-respect which too 
frequently results from dirty and deleterious labor, it is now ren- 
dered by him as the controller of an apparatus thoroughly cleanly 
and inoffensive in its working, and marvelous in its results. And 
although the temperature of the combing-shed is still high — 
averaging seventy degrees — yet the apartment is large and lofty, 
and ventilation, for the most part, is amply provided for. 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 45 

The wool, thus combed, is made up into balls called " tops" — a 
sort of round " heads." It has now to be " prepared " for spinning. 
This process consists in passing the " slivers," or ribbons, of combed 
wool between a series of pairs of rollers, moving with regulated and 
gradually increasing degrees of velocity, and brought, with cor- 
responding gradations, closer to each other, thus diminishing the 
space between them through which the wool has to move. The 
result is to draw out the fibers more completely. This is repeated 
from six to ten times. The strips of slightly-cohering wool thus 
gain length at the expense of thickness, and are called " rovings ; " 
the word is probably cognate with the sailors' " reefing," from the 
Anglo-Saxon " reafian," to pull. The bobbins on which these 
rovings are wound whilst revolving impart a slight amount of twist- 
ing to the wool, and a sort of light woolen rope is produced with the 
smallest possible amount of strain. It is immediately from these 
" rovings " that "yarn " — literally, " prepared " wool (Anglo-Saxon, 
" gyrnan," to make ready) — is produced. 

The yarn varies according to the quality of the wool from which 
it is produced, and according to the fineness of thread to which it is 
spun. In what is called the " fly-frame," for spinning long wool, 
the spindles have a velocity of 2,500 revolutions per minute. In 
the " cap-frame " they attain the almost incredible speed of 6,000 
per minute, or 100 revolutions per second. The tenuity of the 
yarn is indicated by the " number," which represents how many 
skeins, or " hanks " — bundles that one may " hang " up — go into a 
pound. Thus, "40's" yarn means that in one pound weight there 
are forty hanks, each measuring 560 yards ; " 8o's " means that in 
the same weight there are twice as many yards, which must, there- 
fore, be a yarn twice as fine. 

Cotton warps were introduced into Bradford in A. D. 1834, and 
produced a revolution in the manufacture of the district. From 
this point may be dated the most rapid growth both of the trade 
and the town. Cotton has some great advantages over wool in its 
employment as warp ; it is stronger, and therefore better fitted to 
bear the stress of looms worked by steam-power ; it is ordinarily 
spun to a finer thread, and, above all, it is less costly. Its use 
increased with great rapidity, and probably seven-eighths of the 
pieces now produced are made with cotton warp. For some of the 
finest goods silk warps are used. 

Weaving, like combing and spinning, was originally a domestic 
operation, and during the time of transition from hand-looms to 
power-looms there was a good deal of suffering. The work is now 



46 SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

all but universally carried on in the factories, and at least two-thirds 
of the weavers are females. The mere manual labor is in itself 
quite light. Steam supplies the motive power ; what the operative 
has to do is to watch the web in its progress, see that the shuttle is 
kept supplied with the right yarn, pick out any knots occurring in 
defective weft, and, if any thread breaks, join it together again. A 
very ingenious contrivance, called the weft-fork, which stops the 
motion of the shuttle the instant the weft breaks, has rendered it 
possible for one weaver to attend to two, and even three, looms 
with no more trouble than one required formerly. The inventor is 
a Lancashire operative. In looms for the weaving of yarn-dyed, 
figured or " fancy " goods, where a variety of colors has to be intro- 
duced in the weft, a number of shuttle-boxes are required, each 
supplying a different-colored thread ; the action of all these is 
automatic. In plain fabrics each weaver generally attends to two 
looms ; in figured goods, for the most part, to one only. The 
faculties demanded of the weaver are sharp eyes and nimble 
fingers, and it is patience rather than strength that first becomes 
exhausted. From the beam on which the piece has in weaving 
wound itself it is now taken, examined by the overlooker and 
passed into the hands of the salesman in the warehouse, by whom it 
is disposed of to the merchant. Pieces undyed are called " gray 
goods." The dyeing is performed according to the requirements 
and instructions of the merchants purchasing. 

The manufactured goods produced by the operations that have 
thus been indicated are of great variety. The world is the market 
for them ; there is scarcely a corner of the globe open to British 
products where they have not penetrated. Speaking generally, they 
may be divided into two classes, distinguishable according to the 
" luster " of their surface, or to the " softness " of their " handle." 
Most of them are used for the dresses of women and children ; 
some for the lining of woolen garments and for men's light sum- 
mer coats; others for window-hangings and domestic furniture. 
Many of the names by which the different articles are distinguished 
were given by the mere fancy or whim of the salesman ; others are 
corruptions of the names of places where the particular goods were 
first produced. The best names indicate the material employed or 
the specialty of the fabric itself. — Extract from an Essay on Brad- 
ford and the Worsted Manufacture, by George Taylor. 

Yarn Reels. — These machines are very simple, but they may be 
too simple. There are reels running in mills at this present time 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 47 

which cause fully three times more waste in spooling than some 
others. The writer knows of such reels, working on yarn every 
pound of which is worth more than one dollar and ten cents; in- 
deed, yarn double that sum in value has often been tangled on these 
reels. This may be an exceptional case, but it is more likely to be 
a fair example of many others. The difficulty with these reels is 
that they are exactly the same as those built twenty years ago for 
very ordinary yarn. There is no automatic guide motion and 
movable section bar; one bobbin is run into a skein, or at best, into 
one-half a skein. So imperfect is the reel and guide that between 
the wabble of the former and the stationary position of the other 
the skein is a tangled instead of a free open coil, which may be un- 
wound freely even after dyeing. The most perfect reels can be 
purchased for less money than the value of the yarn unnecessarily 
wasted by a poor reel, in less than one year of steady work. 

Yarn Stretching. — Many kinds of yarn, especially worsted, 
should be subjected to a reasonable strain while drying. When 
worsted yarn is hung up loose to dry, it loses its luster, and if a lit- 
tle uneven before washing or drying, or both, it becomes more so 
by the slack way of drying. For the heavier kinds of worsted 
goods, which should have a cloth feel and appearance, this point is 
of paramount importance. When yarn has been kept out tight 
while drying, the goods may be laid out wider in the loom, as they 
will shrink considerably more than if made of yarn dried slack, but 
not quite so much as goods made of raw yarns. It is the gain of 
weight and softness obtained in this way which gives some European 
goods their special peculiarity. Care must be taken to avoid over- 
doing. When yarn is wet it is an easy matter to overstrain and 
weaken it. 



4 8 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



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SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



49 



Table Showing Threads per Inch, Width of Warp in Reeds, and Total Number 

of Threads. 





Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Thds. 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 




Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


per 
Inch. 


6o Ins. 


6i Ins. 


62 Ins. 


63 Ins. 


64 Ins. 


65 Ins. 


66 Ins. 


67 Ins. 


68 Ins. 


69 Ins. 




Thds. 


Thds. 

732 


Thds. 
744 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


12... 


720 


756 


768 


780 


792 


804 


816 


828 


14... 


840 


854 


868 


882 


896 


910 


924 


938 


952 


966 


15... 


900 


915 


930 


945 


960 


975 


990 


1005 


1020 


1035 


16. 


960 


976 


992 


1008 


1024 


1040 


1056 


1072 


1088 


1104 


18... 


1080 


1098 


1116 


1134 


1152 


1170 


1188 


1206 


1224 


1242 


20... 


1200 


1220 


1240 


1260 


1280 


1300 


1320 


1340 


1360 


1380 


21.. 


1260 


1281 


1302 


1323 


1344 


1365 


1366 


1407 


1428 


1449 


22.. 


1320 


1342 


1364 


1386 


1408 


1430 


1452 


1474 


1496 


1518 


24.. 


1440 


1464 


1488 


1512 


1536 


1560 


1584 


1608 


1632 


1656 


25... 


1500 


1525 


1550 


1575 


1600 


1625 


1650 


1675 


1700 


1725 


2(3... 


1560 


1586 


1612 


1638 


1664 


1690 


1716 


1742 


1768 


1794 


27.. 


1620 


1647 


1674 


1701 


1728 


1755 


1782 


1709 


1836 


1863 


28... 


1680 


1708 


1736 


1764 


1792 


1820 


1848 


1876 


1904 


1932 


80... 


1800 


1830 


1860 


1890 


1920 


1950 


1980 


2010 


2040 


2070 


'32... 


1920 


1952 


1934 


2016 


2048 


2080 


2112 


2144 


2176 


2208 


•63.. 


1980 


2013 


2046 


2079 


2112 


2145 


2178 


2211 


2244 


2277 


34... 


2040 


2074 


2108 


2142 


2176 


2210 


2244 


2278 


2312 


2346 


35. . 


2100 


2135 


2170 


2205 


2240 


2275 


2310 


2345 


2380 


2415 


36. . 


2160 


2196 


2232 


2268 


2304 


2340 


2376 


2412 


2448 


2484 


38.. 


2280 


2318 


2356 


2394 


2432 


2470 


2508 


2546 


2584 


2622 


39.. 


2340 


2379 


2418 


2457 


2496 


2535 


2574 


2613 


2652 


2691 


40.. 


2400 


2440 


2480 


2520 


2560 


2600 


2640 


2680 


2720 


2760 


42.. 


2520 


2562 


2604 


2646 


2688 


2730 


2772 


2814 


2856 


2898 


44.. 


2640 


2684 


2728 


2772 


2816 


2860 


2904 


2948 


2992 


3036 


45.. 


2700 


2745 


2790 


2835 


2880 


2925 


2970 


3025 


8060 


3105 


46. 


2760 


2806 


2852 


2898 


2944 


2990 


3036 


3082 


3128 


3174 


48. . 


2880 


2928 


2976 


3024 


3072 


3120 


3168 


3216 


3264 


3312 


49.. 


2940 


2989 


3038 


3087 


8136 


3185 


3234 


3283 


3332 


3381 


50.. 


3000 


3050 


3100 


3150 


3200 


8250 


3300 


3350 


3400 


3450 


52.. 


3120 


3172 


3224 


3276 


3328 


3380 


3432 


3484 


3536 


3588 


54.. 


3240 


3294 


3348 


3402 


3456 


3510 


3564 


3618 


3672 


3726 


55. 


3300 


8355 


3410 


3465 


3520 


3575 


3630 


8685 


3740 


3795 


56.. 


3360 


3416 


3472 


3528 


3584 


3640 


3696 


3752 


3808 


8864 


58.. 


3480 


3538 


3596 


3654 


3712 


3770 


3828 


3886 


3944 


4002 


GO.. 


3600 


3660 


3720 


3780 


8840 


3900 


3960 


4020 


4080 


4140 


62.. 


3720 


3782 


3844 


3906 


3968 


4030 


4092 


4154 


4216 


4278 


63.. 


3780 


3843 


3906 


8969 


4032 


4095 


4158 


4221 


4284 


4347 


64.. 


3840 


3904 


3968 


4032 


4096 


4160 


4224 


4288 


4352 


4416 


65.. 


3900 


3965 


4030 


4095 


4160 


4225 


5290 


4355 


4420 


4485 


66.. 


3960 


4026 


4092 


4158 


4224 


4290 


4356 


4422 


4488 


4554 


68.. 


4080 


4148 


4216 


4284 


4352 


4420 


4488 


4556 


4624 


4692 


70.. 


4200 


4270 


4340 


4410 


4480 


4550 


4620 


4690 


4760 


4830 


72.. 


4320 


4392 


4464 


4536 


4608 


4680 


4752 


4824 


4896 


4968 


74.. 


4440 


4514 


4588 


4662 


4736 


4810 


4884 


4958 


5032 


5106 



16 



5o 



SriTZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table Showing Threads per Inch, Width of Warp in Reed, and Total Number 

of Threads. 





Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Thds. 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 




Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Inch. 


70 Ins. 


72 Ins. 


74 Ins. 


76 Ins. 


78 Ins. 


80 Ins. 


82 Ins. 


S S Ins 


8 7 Ins 


90 Ins. 




Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


12... 


840 


864 


888 


912 


936 


960 


984 


1020 


1044 


1080 


14... 


980 


1008 


1036 


1064 


1092 


1120 


114t 


1190 


1218 


1260 


15... 


1050 


1080 


1110 


1140 


1170 


1200 


1230 


1275 


1305 


1350 


16... 


1120 


1152 


1184 


1216 


1248 


1280 


1312 


1360 


1392 


1440 


18... 


1260 


1296 


1332 


1368 


1404 


1440 


1476 


1530 


1566 


1620 


20... 


1400 


1440 


1480 


1520 


1560 


1600 


1640 


1700 


1740 


1800 


21... 


1470 


1512 


1554 


1596 


1638 


1680 


1722 


1785 


1827 


1890 


22... 


1540 


1584 


1628 


1672 


1716 


1760 


1804 


1870 


1914 


1980 


24... 


1680 


1728 


1776 


1824 


1872 


1920 


1968 


2040 


2088 


2160 


25... 


1750 


1800 


1850 


1900 


1950 


2000 


2050 


2125 


2175 


2250 


26... 


1820 


1872 


1924 


1976 


2028 


2080 


2132 


2210 


2262 


2340 


27... 


1890 


1944 


1998 


2052 


2106 


2160 


2214 


2295 


2349 


2430 


28... 


1960 


2016 


2072 


2128 


2184 


2240 


2296 


2380 


2436 


2520 


30... 


2100 


2160 


2220 


2280 


2340 


2400 


2460 


2550 


2610 


2700 


32... 


2240 


2304 


2368 


.2432 


2496 


2560 


2624 


2720 


2784 


2880 


33... 


2310 


2376 


2442 


2508 


2574 


2640 


2706 


2805 


2871 


2970 


34... 


2380 


2448 


2516 


2584 


2652 


2720 


2788 


2890 


2958 


8060 


35... 


2450 


2520 


2590 


2660 


2730 


2800 


2870 


2975 


3045 


8150 


36... 


2520 


2592 


2664 


2736 


2808 


2880 


2952 


3060 


8132 


8240 


38... 


2660 


2736 


2812 


2888 


2964 


3040 


3116 


8230 


3306 


3420 


39... 


2730 


280b 


2886 


2964 


8042 


3120 


8198 


3315 


8398 


3510 


40... 


2800 


2880 


.2960 


3040 


8120 


3200 


8280 


3400 


3480 


8600 


42... 


2940 


3024 


3108 


8192 


8276 


3360 


8444 


3570 


8654 


3780 


44... 


3080 


3168 


3256 


3344 


3432 


3520 


3608 


3740 


8828 


3960 


45... 


3150 


3240 


3330 


8420 


8510 


3600 


8690 


3825 


8915 


4050 


46... 


3220 


3312 


3404 


8496 


3588 


86S0 


8772 


3910 


4002 


4140 


48... 


3360 


3456 


3552 


3648 


8744 


3840 


8936 


4080 


4176 


4320 


49... 


3430 


3528 


3626 


3724 


3822 


3920 


4018 


4165 


4263 


4410 


50... 


3500 


3600 


3700 


3800 


8900 


4000 


4100 


4250 


4350 


4500 


52... 


3640 


3744 


3848 


3952 


4056 


4160 


4264 


4420 


4524 


4680 


54... 


3780 


3888 


8996 


4104 


4212 


4320 


4428 


4590 


4698 


4860 


55 .. 


3850 


3960 


4070 


4180 


4290 


4400 


4510 


4675 


4785 


4950 


56... 


3920 


4032 


4144 


4256 


4368 


4480 


4592 


4760 


4872 


5040 


58... 


4060 


4176 


4292 


4408 


4524 


4640 


4756 


4930 


5046 


5220 


60... 


4200 


4320 


4440 


4560 


4680 


4800 


4920 


5100 


5220 


5400 


62... 


4340 


4464 


4588 


4712 


4836 


4960 


5084 


5270 


5394 


5580 


63... 


4410 


4536 


4662 


4788 


4914 


5040 


5166 


5355 


5481 


5670 


64... 


4480 


4608 


4736 


4864 


4992 


5120 


5248 


5440 


5568 


5760 


65... 


4550 


4680 


4810 


4940 


5070 


5200 


5330 


5525 


5655 


5850 


66... 


4620 


4752 


4884 


5016 


5148 


5280 


5412 


5610 


5742 


5940 


68... 


4760 


4896 


5032 


5168 


5304 


5440 


5576 


5780 


5916 


6120 


70... 


4900 


5040 


5180 


5320 


5460 


5600 


5740 


5950 


6090 


6300 


72... 


5040 


5184 


5328 


5472 


5616 


5760 


5904 


6120 


6264 


6480 


74... 


5180 


5328 


5476 


5624 


5772 


5920 


6068 


6290 


6438 


6660 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



51 



Table Showing Threads per Inch, "Width of Warp in Reeds, and Total Number 

of Threads. 





Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Thds. 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 




Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Inch. 


60 Ins. 


61 Ins. 


62 Ins. 


63 Ins. 


64 Ins. 


65 Ins. 


66 Ins. 


67 ins. 


€8 Ins. 


(9 Ins. 




Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 

4950 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


75.. 


4500 


4575 


4650 


4723 


4800 


4873 


5025 


5100 


5175 


76.. 


4560 


4636 


4712 


4788 


4864 


4940 


5010 


5092 


5168 


5244 


78.. 


4680 


4758 


4836 


4914 


4992 


5070 


5148 


5226 


5304 


5382 


80.. 


4800 


4880 


4960 


5040 


5120 


5200 


5280 


5360 


5440 


5520 


81.. 


4860 


4941 


5022 


5103 


5184 


5265 


5343 


5427 


5508 


5589 


82.. 


4920 


5002 


5084 


5166 


5248 


5330 


5412 


5494 


5576 


5658 


84. 


5040 


5124 


5208 


5292 


5376 


5460 


5544 


5628 


5712 


5796 


85.. 


5100 


5185 


5270 


5355 


5440 


5525 


5610 


5695 


5780 


5865 


86.. 


5160 


5246 


5332 


5418 


5504 


5590 


5676 


5762 


5848 


5934 


88.. 


5280 


5368 


5456 


5544 


5632 


5720 


5808 


5896 


5984 


6072 


90.. 


5400 


5490 


5580 


5670 


5760 


5850 


"5940 


6030 


6120 


6210 


92.. 


5520 


5612 


5704 


5796 


5888 


5980 


6072 


6164 


6256 


6348 


.93... 


5580 


5673 


5766 


5859 


5952 


6045 


618£ 


623: 


6324 


6417 


94... 


5640 


5734 


5828 


5922 


6016 


6110 


620-. 


6298 


6392 


6486 


95... 


5700 


5795 


5890 


5985 


6080 


6175 


6271 


6365 


6460 


6555 


96.. 


5760 


5856 


5952 


6048 


6144 


6240 


633C 


6432 


6528 


6624 


98... 


5880 


5978 


6076 


6174 


6272 


6370 


6468 


6566 


6664 


6762 


99... 


5940 


6039 


6138 


6237 


6336 


6435 


6534 


6633 


6732 


6831 


100... 


6000 


6100 


6200 


6300 


6400 


6500 


6600 


6700 


6800 


6900 


102... 


6120 


6222 


6324 


6426 


6528 


6630 


6732 


6834 


6936 


7038 


104. . . 


6240 


6344 


6448 


6552 


6656 


6760 


686-a 


6968 


7072 


7176 


105... 


6300 


6405 


6510 


6615 


6720 


6825 


6930 


7035 


7140 


7245 


106.. 


6360 


6466 


6572 


6678 


6784 


6890 


6996 


7102 


7208 


7314 


108... 


6480 


6588 


6696 


6804 


6912 


7020 


7128 


7236 


7344 


7452 


110.. 


6600 


6710 


6820 


6930 


7040 


7150 


7260 


7370 


7480 


7590 


112.. 


6720 


6832 


6944 


7056 


7168 


7280 


7392 


7504 


7616 


7728 


116... 


6960 


7076 


7192 


7308 


7424 


7540 


7656 


7772 


7888 


8004 


120... 


7200 


7320 


7440 


7560 


7680 


7800 


* 7920 


8040 


8160 


8280 


122... 


7320 


7442 


7564 


7686 


7808 


7930 


8052 


8174 


8296 


8418 


124..- 


7440 


7564 


7688 


7812 


7936 


8060 


8184 


8308 


8432 


8556 


126... 


7560 


7686 


7812 


7938 


8064 


8190 


8316 


8442 


8568 


8694 


128... 


7680 


7808 


7936 


8064 


8192 


8320 


8448 


8576 


8704 


8832 


130.. 


7800 


7930 


8060 


8190 


8320 


8450 


8580 


8710 


8840 


8970 


132... 


7920 


8052 


8184 


8316 


8448 


8580 


8712 


8844 


8976 


9108 


133.-. 


7980 


8113 


8246 


8379 


8512 


8645 


8778 


8911 


9044 


9177 


135. • 


8100 


8235 


8370 


8505 


8640 


8775 


8910 


9045 


9180 


9315 


136 •• 


8160 


8296 


8432 


8568 


8704 


8840 


8976 


9112 


9248 


9384 


140... 


8400 


8540 


8680 


8820 


8960 


9100 


9240 


9380 


9520 


9660 


144. • ■ 


8640 


8784 


8928 


9072 


9216 


9160 


9504 


9648 


9792 


9936 


148... 


8880 


9028 


9176 


9324 


9472 


9620 


9768 


9916 


10164 


10212 


150.- 


9000 


9150 


9300 


9450 


9600 


9750 


9900 


10050 


10200 


10350 


160.- 


9600 


9760 


9920 


10080 


10240 


10400 


10560 


10720 


10S80 


11040 


180.- 


10800 


10980 


11160 


11340 


11520 


11700 


11880 


12060 


12240 


12420 


200.- 


12000 


12200 


12400 


12600 


12800 


13000 


13200 


13400 


13600 


13800 



52 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table Showing Threads per Inch, Width of Warp in Reed, and Total Number 

of Threads. 





Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Width 


Thds. 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


in 


per 
Inch. 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


Reed, 


70 Ins. 


72 Ins. 


74 Ins. 


76 Ins. 


78 Ins. 


80 Ins. 


82 Ins. 


85 Ins. 


87 Ins. 


90 Ins. 




Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


Thds. 


75... 


5250 


5400 


5550 


5700 


5850 


6000 


6150 


6375 


6525 


6750 


76... 


5320 


5472 


5624 


5776 


5928 


6080 


6232 


6460 


6612 


6840 


78... 


5460 


5616 


5772 


5928 


6084 


6240 


6396 


6630 


6786 


7020 


80 .. 


5600 


5760 


5920 


6080 


6240 


6400 


6560 


6800 


6960 


7200 


81... 


5670 


5832 


5994 


6156 


6318 


6480 


6642 


6885 


7047 


7290 


82... 


5740 


5904 


6068 


6232 


6396 


6560 


6724 


6970 


7134 


7380 


84... 


5880 


6048 


6216 


6384 


6552 


6720 


6888 


7140 


7308 


7560 


85... 


5950 


6120 


6290 


6460 


6630 


6800 


6970 


7225 


7395 


7650 


86... 


6020 


6192 


6364 


6536 


6708 


6880 


7052 


7310 


7482 


7740 


88... 


6160 


6336 


6512 


6688 


6864 


7040 


7216 


7480 


7656 


7920 


90. . 


6300 


6480 


6660 


6840 


7020 


7200 


7380 


7650 


7830 


8100 


92... 


6440 


6624 


6808 


6992 


7176 


7360 


7544 


7820 


8004 


8280 


93... 


6510 


6696 


6882 


7068 


7254 


7440 


7626 


7905 


8091 


8370 


94... 


6580 


6768 


6956 


7144 


7332 


7520 


7708 


7990 


8178 


8460 


95... 


6650 


6840 


7030 


7220 


7410 


7600 


7790 


8075 


8265 


8550 


96... 


6720 


6912 


7104 


7296 


7488 


7680 


7872 


8160 


8352 


8640 


98.. 


6860 


7056 


7252 


7448 


7644 


7840 


8036 


8330 


8526 


8820 


99... 


6930 


7128 


7326 


7524 


7722 


7920 


8118 


8415 


8613 


8910 


100... 


7000 


7200 


7400 


7600 


7800 


8000 


8200 


8500 


8700 


9000 


102... 


7140 


7344 


7548 


7752 


7956 


8160 


8364 


8670 


8874 


9180 


104... 


7280 


7488 


7696 


7904 


8112 


8320 


fc>528 


8840 


9048 


9360 


105... 


7350 


7560 


7770 


7980 


8190 


8400 


8610 


8925 


9135 


9450 


106... 


7420 


7632 


7844 


8056 


8268 


8480 


8692 


9010 


9222 


9540 


108... 


7560 


7776 


7992 


8208 


8424 


8640 


8856 


9180 


9396 


9720 


110... 


7700 


7920 


8140 


8360 


8580 


8800 


9020 


9350 


9570 


9900 


112... 


7840 


8064 


8288 


8512 


8736 


8960 


9184 


9520 


9744 


10080 


116... 


8120 


8352 


8584 


8816 


9048 


9280 


9512 


9860 


10092 


10440 


120... 


8400 


8640 


8880 


9120 


9360 


9600 


9840 


10200 


10440 


10800 


122. . 


8540 


8784 


9028 


9272 


9516 


9760 


10004 


10370 


10614 


10980 


124.'!! 


8680 


8928 


9176 


9424 


9672 


9920 


10168 


10540 


10788 


11160 


126... 


8820 


9072 


9324 


9576 


9828 


10080 


10332 


10710 


10962 


11340 


128... 


8960 


9216 


9472 


9728 


9984 


10240 


10496 


10880 


11136 


11520 


130... 


9100 


9360 


9620 


9880 


10140 


10400 


10660 


11050 


11310 


11700 


132... 


9240 


9504 


9768 


10032 


10296 


10560 


10824 


11220 


11484 


11880 


133... 


9310 


9576 


9842 


10108 


10374 


10640 


10906 


11305 


11571 


11970 


135... 


9450 


9720 


9990 


10260 


10530 


10800 


11070 


11475 


11745 


12150 


136... 


9520 


9792 


10064 


10336 


10608 


10880 


11152 


11560 


11832 


12240 


140... 


9800 


10080 


10360 


10640 


10920 


11200 


11480 


11900 


12180 


12600 


144... 


10080 


10368 


10656 


10944 


11222 


11520 


11808 


12340 


12628 


12960 


148.. 


10360 


10656 


10952 


11248 


11544 


11840 


12136 


12580 


12876 


13320 


150... 


10500 


10800 


11100 


11400 


11700 


12000 


12300 


12750 


13050 


13500 


160... 


11200 


11520 


11840 


12160 


12480 


12800 


13120 


13600 


13920 


14400 


180... 


12600 


12960 


13320 


13680 


14040 


14400 


14760 


15300 


15660 


16200 


200... 


14000 


14400 


14800 


15200 


15600 


16000 


16400 


17000 


17400 


18000 



Pi 

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lHTHlHHHC0l0i><X)O«^t0t- 

mf^omf-OO!i>OC0!>OC0C-OOT©O03l>OC01>OC0i>OC0i>OXt- • CO i> © TO 
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56 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



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SPITZLi'S MANUAL. 








57 




Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One 


Yard of Cloth w 


th No. 1 Yarn, in Yards 






Hanks, Pounds and 


Ounces 


.—For Worsted \ 


arn. 










Width of Goo( 


is, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Good 


s, 


Th'ds 


27 Inches. 






28 Inches. 




29 Inches. 






30 Inc 


hes. 




per 
Inch. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lb; 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


20 


540 


2 7 
2 8 




154 


560 


1 






580 


Hs 




4 
7 


600 


ItV 




H 


24 


648 


111 




m 


672 


n 




^> 1 


696 


in 

70 




3§-f 


720 


if 




44 


25 


675 


1_23 

-•■lis 




34 


700 


H 




4 


725 


1 33 

" l 112 




44 


750 


Ht 




5-3- 


28 ■ 


756 


1 JL- 

1 2 




5 I 


784 


H 




G f 


812 


l- 9 - 

2 




7 i 


840 


H 




8 


30 


810 


115. 
L 7>6 




74 

7 


840 


l* 




8 


870 


141 

5 6 




9 irV 


900 


m 




94 


32 


864 


1 -*--§• 




8-|i 
3 


896 


11 




Q3 


928 


1 2 3 

L 3 5 




1014 




960 


H 




174 


35 


945 


ill 

1 1 6 




11 


980 


if 




12 


1015 


1_91. 

112 




13 


1050 


11 




14 


36 


972 


110 3 

M4I) 




11M 

3 a 


1008 


H 




12* 


1044 


112.1 

14 




I 3 !! 


1080 


113 

14 




141 


40 


1080 


113. 
14 




144 


1120 


2 


2 




1160 


2-JL 
1 4 


2 


H 


1200 


2i 

T 


2 


92 


44 


1188 


on 

''ho 


2 


133 
T5 


1232 


H 


2 


31 


1276 


2-3-0 

140 


2 


41 6 
3"5" 


1320 


£* 


2 


51 

*'7 


45 


1215 


211 

■*T12 


2 


3 


1260 


n 


2 


4 


L305 


2 37 
112 


2 


H 


1350 


m 


2 


61 

U 7 


48 


1296 


2-14 

"*3TT 


2 


5 A 


1344 


22 




2 


«t 


1392 


2il 

737 


2 


m 


1440 


2 J 


2 


01 


50 


1350 


023 


2 


64 


1400 


2i» 

2 8 


2 


IO4 


1450 


2|| 


2 


n 


1500 


21 a 

T8 


2 


104 


55 


1485 


on 

~1 12 


2 


104 


1540 


2| 


2 


12 


1595 


2 Jh 


2 


131 


1650 


213 
_5 6 


2 


151 


60 


1620 


025 

*2 8 


2 


14ft 


1680 


3 


3 




1740 


3 A 


3 


H 


1800 


3_3_ 

14 


3 


31 

°7 


65 


1755 


Q 1 5 
^112 


3 


2i 
1 


1820 


«i 


3 


4 


1885 


^¥2 


3 


4 


1950 


3|i 

„5 6 


3 


75. 

' 7 


70 


1890 


Q5. 

°8 


3 


6 


I960 


3i 


3 


8 


2030 


3 f 


3 


10 


2100 


3 t 


3 


12 


75 


2025 


Q 6 9 


3 


9| 


2100 


3f 


3 


12 


2175 


3 l¥2 


3 


141 


2250 


4,i_ 

.^> 6 


4 


2 
7 


80 


2160 


3-S- 


3 


135 


2240 


4 


4 




2320 


ft 

4 45 

112 


4 


2ft 

64 

104 


2400 


4 J 

431 


4 


44 
7 


85 


2295 


411 

112 


4 


2380 


4i 


4 


4 


2465 


4 


2550 


4 


8-S- 

°7 


90 


2430 


41 9. 

*?6 


4 


2520 


4i 


4 


8 


2610 


447:" 

;> 6 


4 


2700 


423 

„2 8 


4 


l£i 

*- 7 


95 


2565 


4_6_S_ 
^112 


4 


9ft 


2660 


4f 


4 


12 


2755 


4l 3 
112 


4 


141 


2850 


5 5 
_70 


5 


H 


100 


2700 


4ft 


4 


13i 


2S00 


5 


5 




2900 


5-5- 

2 8 


5 


2e 

7 


3000 


5_s_ 

1 4 


5 


54 


105 


2835 


5rV 
511 


5 


1 


2940 


H 


5 


4 


3045 


5jl 

„1 6 
039. 


5 


7 


3150 


535. 

_76 
52_5 


5 


10 


110 


2970 


5 


46 


3080 


H 


5 


8 


3190 


5 


111 


3300 


5 


144 






5 6 




7 












5 6 




7 




,28 




7 


115 
120 


3105 
3240 


5 61_ 

5H 


5 
5 


84 
12i 


3220 
3360 


5| 
6 


5 

6 


12 


3335 

3480 


5i » 7 


5 

6 


15ft 

ai 


3450 
3000 


6_9_ 
„56 
63. 


6 

6 


2 4 
^7 

64 


125 


3375 


1 4: 


6 


7 
3 


3500 


6i 


6 


4 


3625 


«& 


6 


7I 


3750 


639 


6 


Hi 


130 


3510 


112 

615. 


6 


4 


3640 


6i 


6 


8 


3770 


oil" 


6 


nl 


3900 


,56 
62J. 


6 


154 


135 


3645 


5 6 
6_5J_ 


6 


8l 


3780 


6f 


6 


12 


3915 


_56 
6lll 


6 


7 
15I 


4050 


~2 8 
7j_3 


7 


7 

34 


140 


3780 


U l 12 

6| 

6111 


6 


12 7 


3920 


7 


7 




4060 


„1 1 2 

7i 


7 


4 7 


4200 


56 
74 3 


7 


7 

8 


145 


3915 


6 


156 


4060 


7i 
71 


7 


4 


4205 


7 57^ 


7 


81 


4350 


7 


102. 


150 


4050 


u i 1.2 

713 


7 


q2 


4200 


7 


8 


4350 


743" 


7 


12l 


4500 


s¥ 


8 


7 
A 






'TW 




7 










T6~ 




7 




TS 




7 



5« 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, Single, in 
Yards, Hanks, Pounds and Ounces.— For Worsted Yarn. 





Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Goo 


ds, 


Width of Goods, 


Th'ds 


31 Inches. 






32 Inches. 




33 Inches. 




34 Inches. 




Inch. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


Yards 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


20 


620 


1 3 

r 2¥ 




1£ 


640 


H 




24 


660 


1 s 


1 


24 


680 


1-3- 

■"•14 




34 

°7 


24 
25 

28 
30 


744 

775 
868 
930 


12 3 

10 

IJJL 

112 

11-1 

1 2U 

iff 




5^ 

104 


768 
800 
896 
960 


m 

H 

H 

14 




64 

03 

J s 

114 


792 
825 
924 
99C 


Mi) 

1 1 1 3 

1_8_1_ 

14 
1-ff 


1 
1 

1 
1 


7 A 
' 7 

9 -« 
3 

12^ 


816 

850 

952 

1020 


144 

3 5 
1 8.9 

h\ 

m 




8f 

10* 

101 


32 

35 


992 
1085 


1-14 

, 3T 

1105 




15 


1024 
1120 


143 

7 

2 


2 


12^ 

3 


105G 
1155 


144 

2-L 


1 

2 


14X 

1 35 


1088 
1190 


144 

2-L J 


2 


2 


36 

40 


1116 

1240 


1139 
14 

2-3- 

T4 


2 


1544 

33° 


1152 

1280 


2-2 

2! 


2 
2 


33 

"ST 

44 


1188 
1320 


2 17 

14 
2-5- 


2 
2 


13 3 
3 5 

54 


1224 
1300 


243 
23. 


2 
2 


21f 
64 


44 
45 

48 
50 


1364 
1395 

1488 
1550 


2-61- 

2 55 

TTT2" 

223 

2l! 

aU 

3_9_ 

„28 
3-67 
„112 

3* 


2 
2 
2 

2 


A34 
°3T 

7-6- 

7 

1044 

12| 5 


1408 
1440 
1536 
1600 


2 H 

23 6 
2-S- 


2 
2 

2 

2 


94 

^7 

H|4 

iof 


1452 

1485 
1584 
1650 


2 8 3 

ill 3 
2*1 


2 
2 
2 
2 


9i| 
104° 
13 A 

i> 

154 


1496 
1530 
1632 

1700 


2 93 

„14 

2^ 
^4 

23 2 

32 


2 
2 
2 
3 


10H 

12 

14|| 

4 

1 


55 

60 
65 
70 


1705 
1860 
2015 
2170 


3 
3 
3 
3 


5 

94 

14 


1760 
1920 
2080 
2240 


Ql 

4* 


3 






4 


2? 
6$ 

114 


1815 
1980 
2145 
2310 


3-2 7_ 
3j>3 

.113 

4i 







3 

4 


3l 

7 
84 

18| 


1870 
2040 
2210 
2380 


Si 


3 
3 
3 

4 


K3 

°T 

104 

154 

4 


75 
80 


2325 

2480 


4 1 7 
.112 
43 


4 
4 


24 
61 


2400 

2560 


42 

4 


4 
4 


4i- 

4 


2475 
2640 


4 47 
,112 
4i. 


4 

4 


64 
114 


2550 

2720 


444 

.56 

44 


4 
4 


84 
134 


85 

90 

95 

100 


2635 
2790 
2945 
3100 


4j_q_ 

.112 
45 5 
_"5~6 
5 29_ 
_112 
5l_5_ 


4 
4 
5 
5 


15| 

4i 

8l 


2720 
2880 
3040 
3200 


5i 
55. 


4 
5 
5 
5 


13I 

64 
114 


2805 
2970 
31o5 
3300 


5 TT^ 
517." 
_ 5 6 
5_6 7 
,112 
5.25. 


5 

5 
5 

5 


1 

44 

94 

14| 


2890 
3060 
3230 
3400 


59 

544 

„2 8 
043. 

6°i G 


5 
5 
5 

6 


24 

74 

' 7 

124 


105 


3255 


-28 
5 !)1 


5 


13' 


3360 


6' 


6 




3465 


6^ 


6 


o 7 


3570 


4 1 


6 


6 


110 
115 
120 


3410 
3565 

3720 


41 

,-.112 
O 9 


6 
6 
6 


13 

5l 

10? 


3520 

3680 

3840 


64 

6l 

6l 


6 
6 
6 


44 

13I 


3630 
3795 
3960 


D2 7 

O 8 7 

7 1T2 


6 
6 

7 


7 f 
123 

1! 


3740 
3910 

4080 


619 

6fl 

7 |T 


6 
6 

7 


104 
154 

44 


125 
130 


3875 
4030 


/? 14 
Ol 3 

7ii 2 


6 

7 


14i 

3? 


4000 
4160 


7j_ 
7j. 


7 

7 


4 

el 


4125 
4290 


7?i 
7 44 


7 
7 


5i 

10I 


4250 
4420 


733 

/ 3 5 

Q 28 
8l 1 


7 
7 


94 
144 


135 


4185 


1% 


7 


7i 


4320 


7i 


7 


ni 


4455 


7l'o'7 


7 


15l 


4590 


8 


34 


140 


4340 


7 p 


7 


12' 


4480 


8' 


8 


7 


4620 


si 1 ' 


8 


4' 


4760 


sF 


8 


8 


145 


4495 


8 X 3 


8 


3 


4640 


82 


8 


44 


4785 


8jsi 


8 


81 


4930 


82 s 


8 


124 


150 


4650 


ol 1 2 

Ol 7 

TB" 


8 


4i 

7 


4800 


8i 

7 


8 


91 

7 


4950 


Q l 1 2 

047 

5 6 


8 


13] 

7 


5100 


9 5 3 u 

"ST 


8 


1 s 















SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

/ 








59 




Table of Warp < 


)r Fillin 


g Yarn Required 


for One Yard of Cloth w 


th No. 1 Yarr 


1, Single, in 






Yards 


Hanks, Pounds 


and Ounces. — For Worsted Yarn. 








Th'ds 
per 
Inch. 


Width of Go 
35 Inchts. 


His, 


Width of Goods,, 
36 Inches. 


Width of Goods, 
37 Inches. 


Width of Goods, 
38 Inches. 


Yards. 


links 


Lb; 


. Oz. 


Yards. 


M'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


20 


700 




4 


7.:o 




4A 
.7 


740 


1-8- 

1 28 


1 


51 


760 


1-5- 

14 


1 


H 


24 


840 


H 




8 


804 


Ht 




8|i 


88S 


144- 

7 


] 


9 H 


912 


12_2 

3 5 


1 


">& 


25 
28 
80 
32 
35 


875 

980 

1050 

1120 

1225 


if 

2 

2-3- 

16 


2 
2 


9 
12 
14 

3 


900 
100? 
1080 
1152 
12C0 


1JU 

28 

1* 

2i° 
4 


2 
2 


9|° 

m 

32 
35 

4 


925 
1036 
1110 
1184 
1295 


1|4 

2 2 

1 (i 


1 
1 
1 

2 
2 


10f 
13f 
15-| 
I49 

5 35 


950 
1064 
1140 
1216 
1330 


139 

J 56 

l- 9 - 

X 1 

■*28 
2-6 

2*° 


1 
1 

2 
2 

2 


14f 

4 

7 

244 
3 

6 


36 

40 

44 

i 45 

* 48 
; 50 


1260 
1400 
1540 
1575 

1080 
1750 


2 1 - 
^4 

2-L 

^4 

91 3 

3™ 

H 


2 

2 
2 
2 
3 
3 


4 

8 
12 
13 

2 


1290 
1440 
15S4 
1G20 

1728 
1800 


2ii 
^.3 ° 
2a 

2I4 

3 T4 


2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 


5^ 

13 ^ 

14f° 

33 


1332 
1480 
1628 
1665 
1776 
1850 


2 53 

2 9- 

2M7 

2i 
811 


2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 


6 A 
lOf 

154 

224 

. 3 
4-6- 
7 


1368 
1520 
1672 
1710 
1824 
1900 


23 1 

*"l 
25. 
^7 
26 9 

"■To 

8-3- 

5 6 

3 9 

oil 

2 8 


2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 


7 A 

15|4 
3 5 

6 

6f 


" 55 


1925 


h\ 


3 


7 


1980 


si! 


3 


8A 

7 


2035 


3jj_ 

1 1 ■ 






101 


2090 


3A1 
5 6 


3 


111 


GO 

; 65 


2100 
2275 


3| 

4 


3 
4 


12 
1 


2100 
2340 


? 8 

4_s_ 

.28 

4 i 





4 


134 

8 T 


2220 
2405 


sAA~ 

4^ 
11- 

4 t 


3 
4 


45. 

7 

10 


2280 
2470 


4J- 

, 14 
42 3 


4 
4 


of 

12 


70 


2450 


4 f 


4 


6 


2520 


4 


2590 


4 


2660 


4 6 


4 


75 


2625 


4u 
5 16 


4 


11 


2700 


423 

_28 

5i 

5i 3 

_2 8 
OH 
£ 14 

el 


4 


K 4 
% 

124 
n 7 

H 

61 


2775 


4107 

O_6_0_ 

513. 

„5 6 
6_3..1_ 

,,11- 
OlT, 


4 


15-2 


2850 


J* 
5** 

6-|5 

^ ° 6 

C t1 


5 


4 

64 

12a 


80 


2800 


5 




2880 


5 


2960 


5 


44 

7 

9* 


3040 


5 


85 


2975 


6_fl_ 


5 


5 


3000 


5 


3145 


5 


32C0 


5 


90 
95 


U50 
3325 


5 
5 


10 
15 


3240 
3420 


5 

6 


5330 
3515 


5 

6 


3420 
3610 


6 
6 


100 


3500 


6 


4 


3600 


6 


3700 


6 


8800 


6 


105 


3G75 


6 


9 


3780 


6l 

7 1 
7ii 


6 


12 7 


3885 


Gin S 


6 


15 1 


399(1 


71 

/13 

2 8 

7aA 


7 


2 7 


[110 
|115 


3850 
4025 


4 

7jl 


6 

7 


14 

3 


3960 
4140 


7 
7 


JJ 


4070 
4255 


7ii 2 

7 5 6°7 


7 
7 


4f 
9a 


4180 
1370 


7 
7 


7f 
12i 


120 


1200 


~1 6 

7m 


7 


8 


4320 


7.5 


7 


hi 


4440 


7l3~ 


7 


l4 


4500 


si° 


8 


2l 


125 


4375 


7- 


13 


4500 


81 


8 


7 
4 


4625 


8^9 


8 


41 


4750 


821 


8 


7l 


130 
135 


4550 
4725 


4 e 

8_T 


8 
8 


2 
7 


4080 
4860 


8V S 
8it 


8 
8 


4 

10i 


4810 
4995 


8ls~ 

8103 


8 
8 


9l 
14l 


4940 
5130 


9 V s 


8 
9 


l4 

2a 


1 140 


4900 


8i° 


8 


12 


5040 


9 28 


9 


7 


5180 


9i 15 

9*6 5 

oil 2 


9 


4 1 


5320 


9l G 
9ai 

2^ 


9 


8 7 


145 

! 150 


5075 
5250 


4° 


9 
9 


1 
6 


5220 
5400 


9 9 

9V ; 

14 


9 
9 


5i 

id 

7 


5365 
5550 


9 
9 


92 
14a 


5510 

5700 


9 
10 


13 T 

2l 

7 



6o 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, Single, in 
Yards, Hanks, Pounds and Ounces. — For Worsted Yarn. 



Th Vis 
per 


Width of Goods, 
39 Inches. 


Width of Goods, 
40 Inches. 


Width of Goods, 
41 Inches. 


Width of Goods, 
42 Inches. 


Inch. 


Yards. 

700 


Hanks 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


II 'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


Hanks Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 

840 


H'nks 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


20 


1 H 

1 2 8 


1 Cf 


800 


If 


1 


G-S- 

"7 


820 


113 

2 8 


1 74 


H 


1 


8 


24 
25 

28 


936 
975 

1092 


141 

1 7 
1 8 3 
1 1 1 J 
113 3 
14 


i nf 

1 154 


960 
1000 
1120 


H 

in 

1 14 

2 


1 
1 

2 


11^ 

104 

1 -^"T" 


984 
1025 
1148 


153 
1 7 

1 9 3 
A l 1 2 

2 1 


1 1 2 3 4 , 
1 1^2 
1 lo-if 

2 4 


1008 
1050 
1170 


H 
H 

9_1 

"10 


1 
1 

2 


124, 
14 
If 


30 


L170 


9 5 


2 If 


1200 


24 


2 


24 


1230 


2 i 1 2 3i 


1260 


2i 


2 


4 


32 


1248 


2-8 


2 3 !f 


1280 


2f 


2 


44 


1312 


244 


2 BH 


1344 


2 ! 


2 


6| 


35 


1365 


<)4 9 
"*1 1 2 


2 7 


1400 


2* 


2 


8 


1435 


2 9° 


2 9 


1470 


2 f 


2 


10 


36 


1404 


O 7 1 

*1 4 (f 


2 8 3 4 5- 


1440 


94 
1 


2 


91 


1476 


9-8-9- 
■°140 


2 10A 


1512 


2^~ 

1 u 


2 


iH 


40 


1560 


211 

14 


2 121 


1600 


2-2- 

7 


2 


134 


1640 


913 
*14 


2 141 


1680 


3 


3 




44 


1716 


3_9_ 

1 4 (1 


3 1A 


1760 


1 

3-7 


3 


02 

"7 


1804 


3_3J_ 


3 3i| 


1848 


3 T 3 o 


3 


4 i 


45 

48 
50 


1755 

1872 
1950 


°1 12 
81.9 
"7 

3|i 

5 6 


3 24 
3 41? 
3 74 


1800 
1920 

2000 


3_3_ 

3^ 

°7 

31 
7 


3 
3 
3 


34 

64 


1845 
1968 
2050 


3 T 3 f 3 2 
3|i 


3 4 T * ¥ 

3 8/, 
3 10|f 


1890 
2016 
2100 


H 

H 

3f 


3 
3 
3 


6 
12 


55 


2145 


3-0_ 
112 


3 13f 


2200 


311 

14 






144 


2255 


4_3_ 

1 lY 


4 3 


2310 


4i 


4 


2 


GO 


2340 


4JL 

2 8 


4 24 
4 84 


2100 


42 
7 


4 


44 


2460 


411 

2 8 


4 6f 


2520 


4| 


4 


8 


65 


2535 


4 6 9 
112 


2600 


4„9_ 
14 


4 


104 


2665 


^Tl 2 


4 121 


2730 


4| 


4 


14 


70 


27,10 


44 9 

5_2_5_ 
^112 

51 
5- ia § 


4 14 


2800 


5 


5 




2870 


5 1 


5 2 


2940 


H 


5 


4 


75 
80 


2925 
3120 


5 34 

5 94 


3000 
3200 


5- 5 - 

°14 

54 


5 
5 


54 
114 


3075 
3280 


5t 5 t 5 2 
54 


5 74 
5 13f 


3150 
3360 


H 

6 


5 

6 


10 


85 


3315 


5 141 


3400 


6 tV 


6 


H 


3485 


6- 2 -5- 
112 


6 34 


3570 


6f 


6 


6 


90 

95 

100 


35 1 

3705 
3900 


6U 

5 6 
f, 6 9 


6 44 
6 94 
6 154 


3600 
3800 
4000 


64 

7i 


6 
6 

7 


61 

v 7 

124 

24 


3690 
3895 
1100 


A3 3 
°T6 

"112 
7J>- 

1^8 


6 94 

6 154 

7 54 


3780 
3990 
4200 


6| 
7i 


6 

7 

7 


12 
2 

8 


105 


4095 


£ o 

7-K 


7 5 


4200 


?i 


7 


8 


4305 


7_T_7_ 
112 


7 11 


1410 


7* 


7 


14 


110 


4290 


1 6 

m 

8 fV 


7 lOi 


4400 


76 

7 


7 


134 


4510 


8 3 


8 4 

7 


4620 


8i 


8 


4 


115 
120 


4485 

4680 


8 1 
8 54 


4600 

4800 


8t 3 4 
84 


8 
8 


34 

91 


1715 

4920 


8-4 7 
°1 1 2 

811- 

14 


8 64 
8 124 


4830 
5040 


8f 
9 


8 
9 


10 


125 

130 


1875 
5070 


1 4: 

°1 12 
9- 3 - 


8 Hi 

9 1 


5000 
5200 


84f 
9* 


8 
9 


141 
44 


"> 1 25 
5330 


Q 1 7 

y Tl2 
Q2 9 
f "6" 


9 24 

9 84 


5250 
5460 


9f 
91 


9 
9 


6 
12 


135 
140 


5265 

5460 


5 6 
y Tl2 

9f 


9 64 
9 1-2 


5400 
5600 


^14 

10 


9 
10 


104 


5535 

5740 


O 9 9 

, l TTf 


9 144 

10 4 


5670 

5880 


ioi 

10i 


10 
10 


2 

8 


145 
150 


5655 

5850 


10-UUlO 14 

112 1A 7 

1014 io 71 


5800 
6000 


10-Jl 
104 


10 

10 


54 
114 


594:. 
0151 


l0 y 6 A 


10 94 

10 154 


3090 
6300 


m 

Hi 


10 
11 


14 
4 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



6l 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard Square of Cloth with No. i Yarn, in Yards, 
Hanks, Pounds and Ounces. — For Cotton Yarn. 





Width o 


Goo 


ds, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods. 


Th'ds 
per 
Inch. 




27 Inches. 






2I Inches. 




29 Inches. 


30 Inches. 




Yards. 


H'nks 

9 
14 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs 


Oz. 


20 


540 




lC-f 


560 




lOf 


580 


2 9 
4 2 


HA 


600 


5 
1 




llf 


24 


648 


27 
3j 




1<M 2 

1 -3 5 


072 


4 




12-f 


696 


2 9 
"35" 


133 9 T 


720 


6 

7 




13f 


25 


675 


4 5 
T6 




12f 


700 


5 
6 




1 ^' 

lo 3 


725 


14 5 
16 8 


13^ 


750 


25 
2 8 




14f 


28 


756 


1 




14| 


784 


14 
1 5 




14|| 


812 


29 
30 


10 TT 


840 


I 


I 




30 


810 


27 
2 8 




15* 


840 


1 






870 


H-e 


1 A 

7 


900 


l-Ar 


L 


If 


32 


864 


1A 




1 6 


890 


m 




iiV 


928 


ItVi 


1 ItVs 


900 


H 


I 


2f 


35 


945 


H 




2 


980 


H 




02 


1015 


I- 5 - 

*24 


1 3* 


1050 


H 


1 


4 


36 


972 


in 

x 70 




93 6 


1008 


i| 




3 1 


1044 


117 

1 7 


1 3 3 ! 

1 °II 


1080 


if 


1 


41 


40 


1080 


1^ 




44 

7 


1120 


1* 




^i 


1160 


I- 8 - 

L 2 1 


1 6- a - 

u 2 1 


1200 


1^ 1 
7 


6f 


44 


1188 


129 

J 10 




5 


1232 


h\ 




7 i 


1276 


110 9 
1 2~1 


1 8- 3 - 3 - 

1 °10l 


1320 


11 1 
7 


91 


45 


1215 


1 25 

1 7"6 




7i 

7 


1260 


H 




8 


1305 


1 31 


1 8f 


1350 


m V 


9f 


48 


1296 


1 1 9 
j 3T 




8tt 


1344 


h\ 




Q_9 

y T5 


1392 


1138 
1 2 T 


1 10H 


1440 


M l 


ll 3 

1 7 


50 


1350 


114 

1 2 8 




Of 


1400 


if 




lOf 


1450 


1 61 

1 84 


1 HM 


1500 


in [ 

x 1 J. 


194 

7 


55 


1485 


143 
1_ 5T 




12f 


1540 


if 




13* 


1595 


115 1 

X T 6 8" 


1 14- 8 - 

1 A ^2 1 


1650 


1 -± 

27 L 

2 8 1 


15f 


60 


1620 


if! 




Hi 

7 


1680 


2 


2 


3 


1740 


9 1 

1 4 


2 If 


1800 


2i 2 

7 1 


2f 


65 


1755 


»ft 


2 


H 


1820 


H 


2 


H 


1885 


O 4 1 

T6 ~8 


2 3*| 


1950 


9_9„ 2 

2 8 1 


51 


70 


1890 


a* 


2 


4 


1960 


H 


2 


H 


2030 


9 5 

"12 


2 6f 


2100 


-£•9 1 — 


8 


75 


2025 


m 


2 


04 
7 


2100 


2^ 


2 


8 


2175 


93 3 

■**5"6" 


2 9f 


2250 


91 9 O 

""215" | 


10f 


80 


2160 


n 


2 


7 


2240 


H 


2 


10f 


2320 


91 B 

*2 1 


2 12^ 


2400 


96 ■> 

7 i 


13f 


85 


2295 


941 

1) 6 


2 


Hi 
7 


2380 


H 


2 


13* 


2465 


91A1 
16 8 


2 14f» r 


2550 


3 A 3 


4 

7 


90 


2430 


02 5 
■*3 8 


2 


142 
7 


2520 


3 


3 




2610 


3- 3 - 

2 8 


3 If 


2700 


* O 

3 t 3 4 ;j 


H 


95 


2565 


3- 3 - 

°56 


3 


6 

7 


2660 


H 


3 


2f 


2755 


3 tVs 


3 41-2- 
2 1 


2850 


3 H - J 


6f 


100 


2700 


3t 3 4 


3 


t>4- 


2800 


H 


3 


P. 3 


2900 


3 if 


3 7- 5 ™ 
'21 


3000 


31 3 


91 


105 


2835 


H 


3 


6 


2940 


H 


3 


8 


3045 


3 f 


3 10 


3150 


3f 


3 


12 


110 


2970 


SJL1 

2 8 


3 


8* 


3080 


H 


3 


lOf 


3190 


317 

8 4 


3 12if 


3300 


3 !f 


3 


14f 


115 


3105 


"56 


3 


»+ 


3220 


3 f 


3 


13* 


3335 


mi 


3 1511 


3450 


4A 


4 


H 


120 


3240 


3-S- 


3 


13f 


3360 


4 


4 




3480 


4+ 


4 2f 


3000 


4f 
413 

2 8 


4 


41 


125 


3375 


4JL 


4 


2 

7 


3500 


H 


4 


2f 


3625 


4_S_3_ 

1 6 


4 % 


3750 


4 


7f 


130 


3510 


4 5 

^2 8 


4 


06 
7 


3640 


H 


4 


5* 


3770 


44 1 

8 4 


4 7 il 


3900 


4~ 9 t- 

14 


4 


lOf 


135 
140 


3045 

3780 


41 9 

4- 1 - 
2 


4 
4 


5-3- 

8 


3780 
3920 


41 

42 
3 


4 
4 


8 
lOf 


3915 

4060 


41 1 1 
M 6 8 
45. 
6 


4 101 
4 13* 


4050 
4200 


423 

^28 

5 


4 
5 


131 


145 


3915 


43 i 


4 


104 


4060 


45. 

6 


4 


13* 


4205 


°T68 


5 - 2 - 
" 21 


4350 


f; 5 

°'3"8" 


5 


2-S- 
7 


150 


4050 


J 23 

^28 


4 


131 


4200 


5 


5 




4350 


K 5 

°"2"8 


5 2f 


4500 


5t 5 4 


5 





62 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard Square of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, in Yards, 
Hanks, Pounds and Ounces. — For Cotton Yarn. 



Th Ms 
per 

Inch. 



20 
24 

25 

28 

30 

32 

35 

36 

40 

44 

45 

48 

50 

55 

60 

65 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 



Width of Goods, 
31 Inches. 



Yards. H 'nks Lbs 



020 
744 
775 
868 
930 
992 
1085 
1116 
1240 
1364 
1395 
1488 
1550 
1705 
1860 
2015 
2170 
2325 
2480 
2635 
2790 
2945 
3100 
255 
3410 
3565 
3720 
3875 
4030 
4185 
4340 
4495 
4650 



117 
lliii 

laV 
1 3 

1 "2~8 

1 1 J 
1* 



1 1.0 

l a 1 

1 1.31 

14-L1 

1 1; s 

m 

2 5 

v 16 8 

2-3- 

1 4 

2 6 7 

1 6 8 

2 TL 

1 2 

}4 3 
T6 
>2 
"3T 
3_23 

3 9_ 

¥"8 

10s 

4 8*4 

4JLi 
16^ 

4 f 

41 03 



Oz. 



16 8 
46JL 

84 
4 16 5 

1 6 8 

54 

O 5 3 

10 8 



iH4 

14 3 6 o 

14 21 

X ^2 8 

_8 
13 

1^ 
x 7 

4f 

5o 9 -. 

a 

71 3 

94-44 

1 a 
104 

1244 

3 5 

13ii 
±eJ g 1 

1 

¥l 
O-i 

6 2°T 

»i 

12f 

15 s 

2 ir 4 r 

8 A 
"A 

14 

2 1 
3-V»- 

»!! 

121 6 

2 1 

151 

n 

84 



Width of Goods, 
32 Inches. 



Yards. H 'nks Lbs 



640 
768 
800 
896 
960 
L024 
1120 
1152 
1280 
1408 
1440 
1536 
1600 
1760 
1920 
2080 
2240 
2400 
2560 
2720 
2880 
040 
200 
3360 
3520 
3680 
3840 
4000 
4160 
4320 
4480 
4640 
4800 



16. 
21 
.32 

3o 
20. 
¥l 

1_2 3 

l l a 

H 

m 
141 

x 2 1 

lit; 
STo 

if 

H 

2-2- 

Z 2 1 

2f 

OJLO 
2F 

2l 

7 

3 A 

3 

317 

4 21 

A 
J* 

20 

51 

7 



12/ r 

1411 

ISA 

liV 
24 

■*7 
3-53 

"10 5 

°"3" 

PL 3 3 
°3T 

ft s 
°2T 

IOtVo 
114 

124 

141-0 

A ^2 1 

1 1 1 
44 

^7 

71 1 

' 2 1 

10| 

134 

11 

2 1 

311 
°21 

61^. 

v 2 1 
Ql 9 

*■*% 1 



<V T 
91 

12/ T 
15j s T 

4 
ft s 

°2T 

111 



Width of Goods, 
33 Inches. 



Yards. H 'nks Lbs, 



660 
792 
825 
924 
990 
1056 
1155 
1188 
1320 
1452 
1485 
1584 
1650 
1815 
1980 
2145 
2310 
2475 
2640 
2805 
2970 
3135 
3300 
3465 
3630 
3795 
960 
4125 
4290 
4455 
4620 
1785 
4950 



1 3 
4 2 
3 3 
3 5" 
16 f 
16 8 



*A 

if 

129 
1 7 
If 
111 

Mo 

113J 

1 I! 8 

i-fW 

m 

2 9- 

5 6 

n 

^53 

"36" 



3 5 7 

1 CT 

3 n 
4 i 

4-i>_ 

2 8 
42 1 

41 

7 1 

45 1 

5V 
W 



124. 

15^, 

3 u 

154 
If 

n 



6 

1123 

1211 
14 3- 

15i J 

n 

54 



12 

154 

n 

5f 

8 7 

HI 

' 7 

141 

2 

84 
114 
144 

If 

44 



114 
144 



Width of Goods. 
34 Inches. 



Yards. H 'nks Lbs 



680 
816 
850 
952 
1020 
1088 
1190 
1224 
1360 
1496 
1530 
1632 
1700 
1870 
2040 
2210 
2380 
2550 
2720 
2890 
3060 
3230 
3400 
3570 
3740 
3910 
4080 
4250 
4420 
4590 
4760 
4930 
5100 



34 

"3~3 
1«T 

h\ 

1-3- 

1 i¥ 

I 1 a 

Mr 

HI 
Hf 

1_82 

I I o3 

'If 

in 

219 

85 

24 

95.3 

84 

21 
*6 

3 A 

•Vt 
3 li 

3-9- 

J i 4 

fii-L 
84 

4 A 

4 i 
419 
^4 2 
411 
8 4 

41 

•Vt 

51 3 
5| 



Oz. 



12H 

15H 

4 
¥T 

34 

4 tVV 
61 

^H 

94 

1 To a 

134 
15^ 

8 
¥T 

3if 
64 

10/r 

131 
4. 

7 

"21 

7 ! 

lOf 
13ii 

10 2 1 

11 



1 
1 
I 
I 

L 
I 
1 
1 
I 
1 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
4 
1 
t 
1 
I 
5 
5 
5 
5 
5 
ll 



7 5 

ion 

A "2 1 
13| 

2 
TT 
4 4 

73 

1°1 
I349- 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



63 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard Square of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, in Yards, 
Hanks, Pounds and Ounces. — For Cotton Yarn. 





Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods 


Width of Go 


ods, 


Width of Goods, 


Th'ds 


35 Inches. 


36 Inches 




37 Inches 




38 Inches 




per 
Inch. 


Yards. 


H'nks 

5 
6 
1 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 

6 

7 


Lb 


s. . Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lb 


s. Oz. 


Yards. 


H'nks 


Lbs. Oz. 


20 


700 


13* 


720 




13f 


740 


3 7 

4 2 




14_2_ 

"2 1 


760 


1 9 

2 1 




1 412- 

L ^2 1 


24 


840 




864 


lit 


1 


1 6 
"3T 


888 


1 2 


1 


32 
3T 


912 


1-A- 

1 3? 




113 

1 3T 


25 


875 


^ 


1 2. 


900 


Hi 


I 


H 


925 


M 6 8 


I 


HI 


950 


Ill 

X 84 




2/ f 


28 


980 


1* 

1* 


1 2f 


1008 


H 


1 


3* 


1036 


1.11 


1 


3|* 


1064 


1 5 




4t 4 i 


30 


1050 


1 4 


1080 


if 


1 


4A 
^*7 


1110 


12 3. 


I 


4_8_ 

^2 1 


1140 


l - 6 

l 14 




H 


32 


1120 


1* 


1 51 


1152 


m 


1 


RSI, 
°3? 


1184 


l_ta_ 


1 


6t 5 A 


1216 


1_47 

MOI 




7 1 7 
'10 5 


35 


1225 


m 


I ?* 


1260 


1* 


1 


8 


1295 


1 JL_3. 

L 24 


1 


8f 


1330 


ItV 




9* 


3G 


1260 


1* 


1 8 


1296 


114 

1 TT^ 


1 


m 


1332 


141 


I 


913 
3 5 


1368 


Iff 


10A 


40 


1400 


if 


1 lOf 


1440 


1 7 


1 


nf 


1480 


11.6 
l 2 1 


1 


12-^- 


1520 


111 1 

l 31 


1920 

1 ^2 1 


44 


L540 


i£ 

6 


1 13* 


1584, 


1 3? 


1 


14A 


1628 


119 7 

2 10" 


1 


14?3 
7 


1672 


1104 
10 5 




1^89 
J °To 5" 


45 


1575 


'* 


1 14 


1620 


113 

1 1 4 


1 


144 


1665 


1 5 5 

"5~6 


1 


154 


1710 


2-JL 

2 8 


2 


4 
7 


48 


1680 


2 


2 


1728 


■2A 


3 


32 

3TT 


1776 


*A 


2 


119 

1 3 


1824 


2 6 

~3o" 


2 


926 


50 


1750 


1 

"" 12 


2 1* 


1800 


2* 


) 


24 


1850 


on 

84 


2 


°2 1 


1900 


2J-1 

*4 2 


2 


4JL 

^2 1 


55 


1925 


9 1 

~2 4 


2 4* 


1980 


2f 5 T 


2 


5 f T 


2035 


2 ii 

Jl ti 8 


2 


61 6_ 
u 2 1 


2090 


04 1 

84 


2 


71 7 

1 2 T 


60 12100 


Ol 

~2 


2 8 


2160 


n 





t/"S" 


2220 


2 » 

14 


2 


104 


2280 


OS 

1 


2 


114 


65 


2275 


on 

"2i 


2 11* 


2340 


91 1 


2 


104 


2405 


2i 4 5 

1 6 8 


2 


131} 


2470 


2ia 

84 


2 


15J T 


70 


2150 


Oil 


2 14| 


2520 


3 


3 




2590 


3-J 


3 


1* 


2660 


3* 


3 


n 


75 


2625 


3A 


3 2 


2700 


3-3- 
°i 4 


Q 
O 


of 


2775 


3il 

56 




•> 


44 


2850 


3** 


3 


62 

v 7 


80 


2800 


' J 3 


3 5* 


2880 


Q3. 
"1 


3 


6-S- 

u 7 


2960 


311 

2 1 






8A 


3040 


313 

2 1 


3 


919 
^21 


85 


2975 


"13 

' J 2 4 


3 £f 


3060 


q 9 


3 


104 


3145 


3441 

16 8 


^ 
j 


1119 
x l 2 1 


3230 


3 H 


3 


13** 


90 


3150 


3f 


3 12 


3240 


q6 





134 


3330 


3-&± 
84 


6 


154 


3420 


Vt 


4 


H 


95 


3325 


Q23 

°24 


3 15* 


3420 


4 T V 


4 


H 


3515 


4-3-4, 

16 8 


4 


92.0 


3610 


Hi 


4 


41 6 

^ 21 


100 


3500 


41 


4 2f 


3600 


4f 


4 


4* 


3700 


41 7 
4 2 


4 


6io 

u 2 1 


3800 


4 ** 


4 


8 8 

°"2T 


105 


3675 


4f 


4 6 


3780 


4* 


1 


8 


3885 


4 f 


I 


10 


3990 


4f 


4 


12 


110 


3850 


■4* 


4 9* 


3960 


4-5- 


4 


114 


4070 


471 
84 


1 


13** 


4180 


Ail 

4¥ 


4 


lHf 


115 


4025 


419 
^24 


4 12} 


4140 


413 

^14 


4 


144 


4255 


5_ti_ 

1 (5 8 


5 


I2V 


4370 


5 *f 


5 


Wr 


120 


4200 


5 


5 


4320 


5* 


5 


2f 


4440 


5f 


5 


41 
7 


4560 


54 


5 


64 


125 


4375 


5/r 


5 3* 


4500 


p. 5 

°T4 


5 


54 


4625 


5-3-3- 

1 6 8 


5 


8 2T 


4750 


53-3. 
84 


5 


IO10 

;. 21 


130 


4550 


K 5 
d 12 


5 6f 


4680 


5* 


5 


9* 


4810 


511 

84 


5 


11*4 


4940 


5 H 


5 


14 2 3 1 


135 
140 


4725 

1900 


P;i 5 
°¥4 

5 f 


5 10 
5 13* 


4860 
5040 


5*4 

6 


5 

6 


104 


4995 
5180 


544 
5 6 

H 


5 

6 


151 


5130 
5320 


6A 

6* 


6 
6 


H 

5* 


145 


5075 


6^ 


6 1 


5220 


6- 3 - 

u 14 


6 


3^ 

°7 


5365 


6tV« 


6 


6-4- 

"2 1 


5510 


611 

84 


6 


8 f? 


150 


5250 


6i 


6 4 


5400 


6^- 


6 


6-2- 


5550 


6** 


6 


Q5 


5700 


6lJ- 

U 14 


6 


124 



6 4 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth with No. I Yarn, in Yards, 
Hanks, Pounds and Ounces. — For Cotton Yarn. 



Th 'd: 

per 
Inch. 



20 

24 

25 

28 

30 

32 

35 

36 

40 

44 

45 

48 

50 

55 

60 

65 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 



Width of Goods, 
39 Inches. 



Yards. H'nks Lbs 



780 
93G 
975 
1092 
1170 
1248 
1365 
1404 
1560 
1716 
1755 
1872 
1950 
^145 
2340 
2535 
2730 
2925 
3120 
3315 
3510 
3705 
3900 
4095 
4290 
4485 
4680 
4875 
5070 
5265 
5460 
5655 
5850 



1-4 

l- 3 - 

■M0 

m 

IB 

11 

1 1 
1-6 

2-3- 

1 o 

2-5- 

~5G 

2-8 

2-8- 

28 
931 

2n 

If 
w 
J* 

4-5- 

,28 

444 

A 6 

4 £ 

5-3_ 

r 38 

5.41 

cAl 

2 8 

Oil 



64 1 

els 

S 8 



144 

H! 

2f 

4f 
6f 

10 

13| 

2.4 
13 

m 

H 

8-S. 
i 

12a 

7 
2 

4 T 
7 f 

15i 

2 f 
6a 

10I 

15 

"5l 

9i 

12l 

1 
4. 

4l 

n1 



Hi 

loi 

1 



Width of Goods 
40 Inches. 



Yards. H'nks Lbs. Oz. 



800 

960 
1000 
1120 
1200 
1280 
1400 
1440 
1600 
1760 
1800 
1920 
2000 
2200 
2400 
2600 
2800 
3000 
3200 
3400 
3600 

800 
4000 
4200 
4400 
4600 
4800 
5000 
5200 
5400 
5600 
5800 
6000 



20 
2 1 

H 

h\ 

4 

H 

n-\ 

if 
11 

14-9 

2 1 

2- 3 _ 
Z. 21 
21 
Z 1 * 

23- 

2-8- 
~>1 

2-11 

3 a 
3 i 

2* 

41 

J 31 

43- 

41 1 

4T1 

_21 

5 

£* 

&H 

J* 

52 

2"T 

6V 

_21 
63. 

6jl 
6il 
7F 



I 'i 5 

2f 

3J T 

5* 

61 

8-8- 

°2 1 

lOf 

II i 

1412 

iM 

2f 

44 

6-3- 

U 21 

91 
131 

111 

1 2 1 

91 

1O20 

x, ~21 
1 6 
21 
44 

8 8 

12,4 

l ^l 



311 

°2 1 

' 21 

111 
1 i 7 

15-/ T 

61 
lOf 

1410 

A 2 1 

02 



Width of Goods, 
41 Inches. 



Yards. H'nks 1 



820 
984 

1025 
1148 
1230 
1312 
1435 
1476 
1640 
1804 
1845 
1968 
2050 
2255 
2460 
2665 
2870 
3075 
3280 
3485 
3690 
3895 
4100 
4305 
4510 
4715 
4920 
5125 
5330 
5535 
5740 
5945 
6150 



2 8 

5 

ToT 

i 24 

2-3.1- 
2 1 

2i 1 

*H 

2M 
2441 



4 2 

1 6 
1 JL 

1 1 8 

1 ' ' 



168 
2.31 

4 2 

3 20 

3-5- 
1 2 

0I4 

5 6 
19. 

, 31 

4-3-5- 
1 g 8 

444 

7 38 
41 0.1 

10 8 

m 

H 

544- 

84 

2* 

6tVs 

012. 

u 84 

' 168 
7-9- 



1 544 
ltl H 1 

02 6 

3 11 
°2 1 

°ll 
73 
' 1 

1H 

12tAt 

15WV 

9_1_8 

"•105 
3| 

n 1 t 
^35 

' 21 
10|-a 
141 

Ol 6 
■^2 1 

104- 

14if 

2-8- 
^2 1 

6f 
10/ T 
14- 3 - 

1 ^2 1 

2 

p;i 9 

°2T 

9i| 
131 

113 
1 21 

5H 

u 2 1 

111 



51 



Width of Cood.i, 
42 Inches. 



Yards. H'nks Lbs. Oz 



840 

1008 
1050 
L170 
1260 
1344 
1470 
1512 
1680 
1848 
1890 
•2016 
2100 
2310 
2520 
2730 
2940 
3150 
3300 
#570 
3780 
3990 
4200 
4410 
4620 
4830 
5040 
5250 
5460 
5670 
5880 
6090 
0300 



1 

4 
H 

if 

H 

If 

If 

2' 

oj 

^4 

2 3 

ZJ 
2^ 

21 

3 

n_i. 



4 

*i 

4^- 

4| 
5 

6 

61 
«i 

61 

7 
7i 



4 

71 



3i 

4 

G| 

8 

Of 
12 

ist 

4 

6f 



2 12 



3 12 
4 

4 4 
4 8 
4 
5 
5 
5 
5 
6 

6 4 
6 8 
6 12 



12 



12 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



65 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required to Make One Yard of Cloth with No. I Yarn, in 

Yards, Runs, Pounds and Ounces. — For Woolen Yarn. 



20 

24 

25 

28 

30 

32 

35 

36 

40 

44 

45 

48 

50 

55 

GO 

65 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 



Width of Goods, 
27 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs. Oz. 



540 

648 

675 

756 

810 

864 

945 

972 

1080 

1188 

1215 

1296 

1350 

1485 

1620 

1755 

1890 

2025 

2160 

2295 

2430 

2565 

2700 

2835 

2970 

3105 

240 

3375 

3510 

3645 

3780 

3915 

4050 



80 
8 1 

2 " 
2.1 
64 
18!) 
4 

JUL 

1 (5 

11 

50 

1 8 

32 
.2.4.3. 
4 

27 
40 
.2 9. 7 
4 

2.4 :: 

3 20 
8 1 

10 
2.1 
32 
2.9.1 
32 

I- 1 - 

1 80 
1 _3_1_ 

1 ■-: •» 11 



6 
111 
1 64 
ILL 

1 2 
113 9 
1 3 2" 
1 8 3 
X T"60 
1 J 3 
X 32 

111 

x l 6 

124 7 
32 

113.1 
1 6 

13 1 
1 3 2 

2-L 
4 

2-V 

64 

*160 

2_s 

^3 2 

2 9. 

80 

2143 

3 2 

211 
^32 



K2 

6| 

71 4 

• 21 

*& 

ftl-6 
°2§ 
Q_9_ 
y 2 

m 

104. 

nit 

12 3 

13| 

1411 

1 

T 

111 

1 20 
"*1 

619- 



013 

11 

12-1- 



15^0 

2 
T 

If 

4_£L 

^2 



Width of Goods, 
28 Inches. 



Yards. Runs Lbs 



560 

672 

700 

784 

840 

896 

980 

1008 

L120 

1232 

1200 

1344 

1400 

1540 

1680 

1820 

1960 

2100 

2240 

2380 

2520 

2660 

2800 

2940 

3080 

220 

360 

3500 

640 

3780 

3920 

4060 

4200 



Oz. 



2 

¥0 
_1_ 

1 6 

-4_9_ 
1 u 
.21 
4 
14 
2J 
49 
80 
J5_3_ 
10 
_5L 
1 

JUL 
100 

6.3 
80 
2.1 

2T 



11 

80 

1 JL 

l 2 

111 

1 80 

l- 9 - 
£ 4 

I- 5 - 
x l 6 

If 

119 
J 80 
1.2 3 
1 4 0" 
15. 3 
a 80 

x 4 
16.1. 

1 80 
111 

1 4 

■2 1_ 

To 

2-1 

"To 
3 

"TIT 

OIL 

4 

29 

'80 



24 3. 

"80 

2# 



"5" 



P.3 
°^ 

6f| 

7 

721 
1 ST 

8f 
8H 

10A 
Hi 

12- 8 
12f 

13H 
14 

15° 

4 

5 

2 1 
3f 
5 

6f 

?l 

»1 

10| 

12 

13f 

144 
5 
1 

"5" 
If 

3 

4-| 

H 

n 

83 
5 

10 



Width of Goods, 
29 Inches. 



580 
696 
725 
812 
870 
928 
1015 
1044 
1160 
1276 
1305 
1392 
1450 
1595 
1740 
85 
2030 
2175 
2320 
2465 
2610 
2755 
2900 
3045 
190 
3335 
3480 
3625 
3770 
3915 
4060 
4205 
4350 



2-9. 
80 
_8_7„ 
2 
29 
64 
2 3 
4 
-_8_7_ 
16 
2.9. 
50 

2 3 

3 2 
2._6 1 

4 
2.9 

4 
1L9 
400 
2.6 1 
3 '2' 
_8_7_ 
10 
2 9. 



1_1_ 

1 8 
1 5 7 
1 3 2 
1 _43_ 

X l 

HI 

I- 9 - 
x 20 
1113 
1 3 2 
llill 
1 1 6 
1 2.3.1 
1 32 
113. 
1 16 
1 2 S 'J 
1 32 

1 15. 9 
-"-16 

2-8-1. 

2JL 

*i 

911 
""64 

2- 5 -l- 
16 
O 1 4 3 
"3 2 
4 3. 
"80 
O 2 1 
"3 20 

02 3 



Lbs 



Oz 



°~5~ 

A3 4 
°2"5" 
71 

ft 3 

°2T 

°i 

9-1 

J 2S 

10- 3 - 

1U 2 

1% 

13|| 
14i 

i&H 

If 



6* 

8 it 

u u 

13 

14 ^ 

15 tV 

1-1- 

4° 
4 

5j_ 

7-3- 

4° 

loi- 



Width of Goods, 
30 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs. Oz 



600 
720 
750 
840 
900 
960 
1050 
1080 
1200 
1320 
1350 
1440 
1500 
1650 
1800 
1950 
2100 
2250 
2400 
2550 
2700 
2850 
3000 
3150 
3300 
3450 
3600 
3750 
3900 
4050 
4200 
4350 
4500 



f 
9 

2 

15. 

32 

2.1 

40 

_9 

16" 

3 

1 

■2-1 

3^ 

£1 

40 

3 

? 

2.3, 

4 

.2.1 

3 2 
9 

1 
1 5 
16 

1-1- 

I 32 

H 

1_3_5_ 

I I 6 

1 16 
113. 
1 33 

H 

HI 
in 

A l (5 
HI 
11 
Hi 

2 T V 



2-5 

2^ 

211 

^3 2 
9_7_ 
"1 6 

21-1 

223 
01 3 



6 

9 

03 

*T 
104 

10f 

12 

134, 

131 

14| 

15 



2 

34 



11 
121 
14 
15J 
1 

2i 
4 

^1 

7 



10 

Hi 

13 



17 



66 



SPITZLl'S MANUAL. 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required to Make One Yard of Cloth with No. I Yarn, in 
Yards, Runs, Pounds and Ounces. — For 'Woolen Yarn. 



Th'ds 
per 
Inch. 

20 

24 

28 

30 

32 

35 

36 

40 

44 

45 

48 

50 

55 

60 

65 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 



Width of Goods, 
31 Inches. 



Yards 



620 
744 

868 
930 
992 
1085 
1116 
1240 
1364 
1395 
1488 
1550 
1705 
1860 
•2015 
2170 
2325 
2480 
2635 
2790 
2945 
3100 
3255 
3410 
3565 
3720 
3875 
4030 
4185 
4340 
4495 
4050 



3 1 

8 
9_3_ 
200 
JJ-11 

4 
_9_3_ 

160 

41 

50 

2.11 
32 
2.3 9 
4 
31 
¥0 
.3.41 
4 
2.11 
32 
_9_3_ 
10 
3.1 

iS_ 

320 
111 

8(1 
1_83_ 
, 320 
1_5_3_ 
,160 
111 

20 
1 2 7 

320 

L 1 1 1> 

] 2 6 !i 
, 3 2 
111 
-.16 
2_1JL 
.3 '.' 11 

2_2l_ 
9 



.16 



. 3 ■: i) 
2l3 

22 7 

-.64 
2 8_3_ 

-.10 

2 1 o 7 

, 3 2 
~li 

o 8 

-. 3 2 

22 9 
32 



Lbs. Oz 



71 1 

' 2? 
Ql 7 
°"2T 

q 3 

Q2 3 

^2T 

11 h 

12| 

1o 2T 
13- 1 - 9 - 

l^o 

2| 

4A- 

2 

5 T 7 o 

H 

10-1- 

±u 20 

ll- 9 - 

ii l 

13- 9 - 

io 20 

15 

11 

20 

^1 

3iA 

20 

51 
6f 

8- 3 - 
°i 

m 
hi 

19 19 

2 

14 1 - 



Width of Goods, 
32 Inches. 



Yards. Runs Lbs 



640 
768 
896 
960 
1024 
1120 
1152 
1280 
1408 
1440 
1536 
1600 
1760 
1920 
2080 
2240 
2400 
2560 
2720 
2880 
3040 
3200 
3360 
3520 
3680 
3840 
4000 
1160 
1320 
1480 
4640 
4800 



2 

1 2 

3T 
1 4 
2~S 
3 
f 
1 6 

JJL 
1 
1 8 
2J 
4 
$ 

22 
"2T 
__9_ 
1 
24 

fr 
1 

ItV 

H 

1- 3 - 



1* 
if 

ItV 
ItV 



2J- 

■*To 

2 1 

1 

2 2 
^"5" 

24- 

*io 

2-i 
T 
94 

2^ 

- 10 

3 



Oz. 



6| 

7« 

8|f 
9| 

i°A 
n| 

nil 

12f 
14 2 

14| 
15^ 



If 

H 

4-1 
6| 



HI 
12* 
144 



1-! 



41 
6f 



9| 

HI 
121 
14f 



Width of Goods 
33 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs 



660 
792 
924 
990 
1056 
1155 
1188 
1320 
1452 
1485 
1584 
1650 
1815 
1980 
2145 
2310 
2475 
2640 
2805 
2970 
3135 
3300 
3465 
3630 
3795 
3960 
4125 
4290 
4455 
4620 
4785 
4950 



^ 3 

9_9_ 
2"0 
2 31 
40 

9 9 
16 

3 3 
TO" 
2.3.1 
320 
297 

4 
3.3 
40 

3 63 

4 
2._9_7 
320 

9 9 
100 

I3V 

x 320 
11_9 

l 80 
1109 

1 320 

1-3-JL 
J 160 
1.35 
M6 
113. 
A 20 
1 2.41 
1 3 2 
1111 
1 160 
130 7 
^320 

2 T V 

9_5_3_ 

~320 
9 43 
■*1 6 
91 1 9 
nil 
21-9- 
~4 
93 7 
^6T 

2101 

*160 

2211 

320 

211 

80 

•>:; 1 7 

~:; ■: 11 

3-15. 

160 



6f 

m 

q 6 

9-9- 

y io 

10il 

Hil 

11 If 

131 
I41 3 

1411 

± ^20 
152 1 

1 
2 

2-3- 
20 

5 ^r 

V* 
8| 

102 

EST 

!^ 

1 ¥V 

211 

2"0 

4JL- 

7 1 

1°tV 

14 1 

15 K 

4 



Width of Goods, 
34 Inches. 



Yards. 



680 

816 
952 
1020 
1088 
1190 
1224 
1360 
1496 
1530 
1632 
1700 
1870 
2040 
2210 
2380 
2550 
2720 
2890 
3060 
3230 
3400 
3570 
3740 
3910 
4080 
4250 
4420 
4590 
4760 
4930 
5100 



Runs 



4-i 
4 

~5 1 

10 

111 
-ga 
11 

8 

n 

2~S 
119 
16 
113 

"2"0 

■1-3- 

lo 

18 7 
2" oil 
15.3 
10 
1 1 

^0 

ItV 

1 _2!_ 

i lliO 

L 4 
1 _6JL 

X l 6 
119. 
1 80 

HI 

ItV 

112 9 
16 

111 

1 80 

9 3 

"^6 

Ol 

^8 

9_31_ 
1 6 

2-21 
80 

2-UL 

16 

2ii 

"20 

2-21 
32 

211 

"s 11 

21 3 n 

1 6 
O3 ft. 
~4 

°tV 



Lbs. Oz 



61 

82V 

Oil 

101 
10ff 

ll- 9 - 

IO 6 
1 ° 3 

1424 
15- 3 - 

8 

1 

2 1 

^To" 

4f 
6 T V 

n 

hi 
12 9 - 

14-6- 

X ^l 

3_ 

10 

2 

«A 

5| 
Vo 

104 

12| 

l^o 

15f 

ItV 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



67 



Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, in 
Yards, Runs, Pounds and Ounces. — For Woolen Yarn. 





Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods, 


Width of Goods, 


Width 


: Goods, 


Th'ds 
per 
Inch. 


35 In 


:hes. 


36 Inches. 


37 In 


ches. 


38 Inches. 




Yards. 


Runs. 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


Runs. 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


Runs. 


Lbs. Oz. 


Yards. 


Runs. 


Lbs 


Oz. 


20 


700 


tV 


7 


720 


9 
20 


n 


740 


37 
80 


** 


760 


1 9 
40 




73 
' 5 


24 


840 


21 

40 


81 


864 


« 


m 


888 


111 

20 


m 


912 


57 
10 




»A 


25 


875 


35 
6 4 


8f 


900 


9 
1 6 


9 


925 


37 
6 4 


n 


950 


1 9 
3 2 




9i 


28 


980 


49 

80 


n 


1008 


6 3 
10 


10 2 

1U 2T 


1036 


2 5 9 
4 


i°A 


1064 


133 

2 




10M 


30 


1050 


21 
3 2 


10* 


1080 


27 
4 


10| 


1110 


111 
16 


11 1\ 


1140 


5 7 
8 




uf 


32 


1120 


7 
1 


Hi 


1152 


1 8 


1113 


1184 


37 

^"0 


"ft 


1216 


1 9 

2~3" 




19 * 

1<J 2I 


35 


1225 


49 
64 


12£ 


1260 


63 
80 


123 


1295 


25 9 
320 


1211 

20 


1330 


1 3 3 

16 




13-3- 

i0 l 


36 


1260 


6 3 

80 


12f 


1296 


81 
10 


12fi 


1332 


333 

4 


13 A 


1308 


171 

2 




18ft 


40 


1400 


1 


14 


1440 


9 
1 


14f 


1480 


37 

4 


14| 

7 

2T 


1520 


1 9 

2 




15 l 


44 


1540 


8 


15f 


1584 


99 
100 


i«H 


1628 


1-3- 

4 


1672 


1.9 

1 2 




1 8 

2 5 


45 


1575 


63 
"6~4 


15| 


1620 


1-1- 

1 8 


1 1 


1665 


1-1-3- 
320 


1 3 

2 


1710 


1 ' 1 
1 1 6 




ItV 


48 


1680 


1-1- 

20 


1 * 


1728 


1* 


1 i* 


1776 


1-1-1 

10 


1 119 
"2~5" 


1824 


1 3 




2 6 
■*25~ 


50 


1750 


1_3_ 

32 


1 1* 


1800 


H 


1 2 


1850 


1-5- 
32 


1 2i 

1 4r% 


1900 


iA 




3 


55 


1925 


113 

64 


1 H 


1980 


119. 
8 


1 3 i 


2035 


187 
320 


1 4-3- 
2 


2090 


1 49 

1 1 6 




4tV 


60 


2100 


1-5- 

16 


1 5 


2160 


20 


1 5| 


2220 


1-31 

80 


1 64 


2280 


111 

1-4 




n 


65 


2275 


111 

64 


1 61 

1 u 4 


2340 


13.1 

8 


1 72 


2405 


1 1 61 

32 


1 8 Ar 


2470 


187 
1 1 6 




8tV 


70 


2450 


111 


I 81 


2520 


] 23 


1 94 


2590 


1-M- 


1 9-9- 


2660 


111 

1 80 

Hi 




10| 

12i 


75 


2625 


32 

lil 


1 10± 


2700 


40 
1J-1 


1 11 3 


2775 


16 
111 
1 64 
1 1 7 

20 
1309 


,,10 
1 llf 


2850 




80 


2800 


_ 6 4 


1 12 


2880 


, 1 6 

!* 

in 


1 124 

1 143 


2960 


1 13| 

1 1 5 A 


3040 


6 6 

I- 9 - 

1 1 

2—2- 




14| 


85 


2975 


115. 


1 13f 


3060 


3145 


3230 


2 


3 
1 


90 

95 

100 


3150 
3325 
3500 


6 4 
111 
,32 
1-5- 

2-3- 


1 15* 

1 1* 

2 3 


3240 
3420 
3600 


„ 8 

24- 

4 

2i 

^80 
91 9 
^40" 

2ii 

~ 8 ° 

2-3- 

*10 

2H 

^16 

■*4 

3-3- 

"80 

3-3- 
°27 

"80 

3-§- 

°16 


2 I 

2 2{ 
2 4° 


3330 
3515 

3700 


3 2 

2-1-3- 
16 

2-6JL 
320 
2-5_ 


2 1 2 3° 

10 

2 3 3 
2 
2 5 


3420 
3610 

3800 


16 

211 

^80 
9 41 
~1 6 

21 

979 

"*1 60 
949 
A 8(f 
Ol 1 7 
~1 6 
91 7 

93 1 

3-1 

J 8 

3-3-3- 
°1 6 

313- 
"4 

3-3-1- 
°160 

3-9- 
u l 6 


2 

2 
2 


4-i- 

^10 

6 


105 
110 
115 
120 
125 
130 
135 
140 
145 
150 


3675 
3850 
4025 
4200 
4375 
4550 
4725 
4900 
5075 
5250 


~ 1 6 
212- 
~ 64 

m 

m 

n 
211 

64 

911 

06 1 

^64 


2 4f 
2 6| 
2 81 
2 10 
2 Uf 
2 13| 

2 151 

3 1 
3 2| 
3 4i 


3780 
3960 
4140 
4320 
4500 
4680 
4860 
5040 
5220 
5400 


2 5|. 

2 73 

2 9-8- 
* ^20 

2 1H 
2 13 

2 144 

3 I 
3 2| 

3 4 

3 6^ 


3885 
4070 
4255 
4440 
4625 
4810 
4995 
5180 
5365 
5550 


^ 1 t> 

21 3 7 
320 

2-8-3- 
16 

2H1 
^320 
931 

*40 
95 7 
^64 

hh 

°80 

311 3 
°320 

31-5 
°32 


2 2H 

2 ^ 

2 10ii 
2 12| 

2 li 1 9 

3 si* 

3 5ia 
3 7|° 


3990 
4180 
4370 
4560 
4750 
4940 
5130 
5320 
5510 
5700 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 



*A 

llii 

iA 20 
133 

151 
11 

»A 

5 i 
Vo 

9 



68 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 



Tab of Warp or Filling Yarn Required to Make One Yard of Cloth with No. 1 Yarn, in 
Yards, Runs, Pounds and Ounces. — For Woolen Yarn. 



Inch 

20 

24 

25 

28 

30 

32 

35 

36 

40 

44 

45 

48 

50 

55 

GO 

(55 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135. 

140 

145 

150 



Width of Goods, 
39 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs. 



780 
936 
975 
1092 
1170 
1248 
1365 
1404 
1560 
1716 
1755 
1872 
1950 
2145 
2340 
2535 
2730 
2925 
3120 
3315 
3510 
3705 
3900 
4095 
4290 
4485 
4680 
4875 
5070 
5265 
5460 
5655 
5850 



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8 

11.3 

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3.9. 

64 

2.1.3 

4 

111 

16 

39 

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1 _2_9_ 
l 400 
1 3JL 

1 320 

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80 
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413 

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2 

10J- 



Width of Goods, 
40 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs. 



800 
960 
1000 
1120 
1200 
1280 
1400 
1440 
1600 
1760 
1800 
1920 
2000 
2200 
2400 
2600 
2800 
3000 
3200 
3400 
3600 
3800 
4000 
4200 
4400 
4600 
4800 
5000 
5200 
5400 
5600 
5800 
6000 



2 
3 

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5 
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6 

8 
10 
12 
14 

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10 
12 
14 

2 
4 
6 
8 
10 
12 



Width of Goods, 
41 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs 



820 
984 
1025 
1148 
1230 
1312 
1435 
1476 
1640 
1804 
1845 
1968 
2050 
2255 
2460 
2665 
2870 
3075 
3280 
3485 
3690 
3895 
4100 
4305 
'4510 
4715 
4920 
5125 
5330 
5535 
5740 
5945 
6150 



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Width of Goods, 
42 Inches. 



Yards. Runs. Lbs. 



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840 
1008 
1050 
1176 
1260 
1344 
1470 
1512 
1680 
1848 
1890 
2016 
2100 
2310 
2520 
2730 
2940 
8150 
3360 
3570 
3780 
3990 
4200 
4410 
4620 
4830 
5040 
5250 
5460 
5670 
5880 
6090 
6300 



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15 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 69 



EXPLANATION OF THE TABLES. 



Loom Table. — On pages 142 and 143 there is a Loom Table, 
most convenient for all manner of calculations relative to the pro- 
duct of looms. The quantity of goods given in this table being the 
greatest possible product for a loom running ten hours without stop- 
ping, it will be necessary always to include in all calculations a due 
allowance for stoppage, which is unavoidable. This varies accord- 
ing to the work, from 20 to 50 per cent, for good work ; while for 
bad work, such as will cause many extra stoppages, one must some- 
times allow from 40 to 70 per cent. Some judgment is here needed. 
The table will afford every manufacturer a source of profit, if he 
will compare the actual product of each loom with the greatest pos- 
sible product, at stated times, say weekly. Thus he will ascertain 
when and where unnecessary stoppages occur, and managers may 
thus produce the best results as regards product. 

Reed Tables. — On page 141 may be found a Reed Table, which 
gives at once all the particulars of a reed, excepting the total num- 
ber of threads per warp. 

This table is especially useful where a certain fabric is repro- 
duced, only a small sample being at hand upon which to base cal- 
culations. The threads per inch being known, the total number of 
threads, also the width of the warp in the reed, are easily found in 
the tables on pages 49, 50, 51, 52, of the Appendix. 

Yarn Table. — One of the most important Yarn Tables to be 
found is that on page 48 of the Appendix, where the cornmon 
methods of numbering yarn in this country are so exhibited as to 
afford a convenient means of making quick and accurate compari- 
sons between them all, or in other words, of finding the equivalent 
of either system in all the others. 

On pages 53, 54 and 55 of the Appendix are the Tables showing 
the Weight of One Hundred Yards of Warp Yarn in Pounds and 
Ounces, for warps of one thread to warps of ten thousand threads. 
This table was based upon one hundred yards to avoid small frac- 
tions, which cause inaccuracies, some being necessarily dropped, 



JO SPITZLI'S MANUAL. 

while others must be retained at a great inconvenience. To find 
the desired quantity for less than one hundred yards is very simple, 
as the fractions are decimals, and to divide by ioo one has only to 
move the decimal point. On page 56 is a table similar to the 
above mentioned, but it is intended for calculations of the filling. 
In this the weight given being for one yard of cloth only, it is self- 
evident that for more yards the multiplication of the full number of 
yards by the weight of yarn in one yard, will give the desired result. 
Also, as the table is all for No. 1 yarn, having found the quantity 
that would be necessary if No. 1 yarn were used, this quantity must 
be divided by the actual yarn number, to ascertain the quantity 
necessary of that size of yarn — excepting grain numbers of woolen 
yarn, which are in inverse ratio to the basis, or unit, No. 1 yarn. 

By the use of this table the number of calculations for ascertain- 
ing the amount of filling yarn in any quantity of cloth, are reduced 
to two. 

For yet other calculations of a similar nature, there are four 
tables for each, woolen, cotton and worsted ; all so clear and con- 
venient as to need no explanation, except to those who have never 
seen the tables. 

The threads per inch and the width of the goods being known, 
this table will show at once the quantity of yarn in one yard of the 
goods, in yards, hanks or runs, and in pounds and ounces, alike for 
warp or filling. 

Being in sets for cotton, woolen and worsted, they also serve to 
show the difference in the yarns required for the same number of 
threads in the different materials. 

All told, these tables aid the inexperienced in making intricate 
calculations easy ; they save labor for all, since by using them seve- 
ral calculations are avoided in every instance. They also serve as 
most excellent means of comparison. 



CONTENTS OF APPENDIX. 



Thirty very important subjects, alphabetically arranged I to 47 

Thirty-five Practical Recipes, needed in every factory 6 to 17 

Thirty-five Rules and Examples, for Calculations and Estimates of Yarns, 

Stock, &c, &c 18 to 21 

An Article on the Importance of universal Uniformity of Terms, by Thos. 

R. Ashenhurst 21 to 33 

Scotch, English and American Terms 34 

Tables of Measures 34 

Twelve very Important Tests 36 to 40 

An instructive article on the Worsted Manufactures of Bradford, England. 42 to 47 
Table showing the Equivalent Numbers for the Grain System, in Runs and 

Worsted Numbers 48 

Table showing the Equivalent Numbers for the Run System, in Grain, 

Cotton and Worsted Numbers 48 

Table showing the Equivalent Numbers for the Worsted System, in Run 

and Cotton Numbers 48 

Table showing Threads per Inch, Width of Warp in Reed, and Total 

Number of Threads 49 to 52 

Table showing the Weight of One Hundred Yards of Woolen Warp Yarn, 

in pounds and ounces, for warps of 1 to 10,000 threads 53 to 55 

Table showing the Weight of Filling Yarn per Yard of Cloth, in ounces. . 56 

Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth, with No. 

1 Yarn, in yards, hanks, pounds and ounces, for Worsted Yarn. ... 57 to 60 
Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth, with No. 

1 Yarn, in yards, hanks, pounds and ounces, for Cotton Yarn. . . . .61 to 64 
Table of Warp or Filling Yarn Required for One Yard of Cloth, with No. 

1 Yarn, in yards, hanks, pounds and ounces, for Woolen Yarn 65 to 68 

Explanations of Tables 69 to 70 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



A Manual for Designers, Managers, Weavers, and all Others Connected with 
the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics. By Alfred Spitzli. A. & A. F. Spitzli, publishers, 
West Troy, N. Y. 1881. Price in paper, $1 ; cloth, $2. 

This is an elegantly printed book of nearly two hundred pages, large 8vo., tinted paper, and 
contains an amount of practical information which is modern and useful. The subjects are 
arranged in the style of a cyclopedia, in alphabetical order, and many of them are in themselves 
able and comprehensive articles. The subjects treated upon are directly connected with the tex- 
tile manufacturing interests. The articles upon draughting patterns for fancy goods are the 
clearest of anything we have ever seen, and directions of a separate nature are given in many 
places, and it is a book that will be of real value to any one who is interested especially in the 
manufacture of fancy goods, whether made of cotton, wool or mixed stock. — Boston Journal of 
Commerce. 

Spitzli's Manual and Illustrated Catalogue of Instruments and Accessories for 
those Connected with the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics. Second Edition. A. & A. 
F. Spitzli, publishers, West Troy, N. Y. 1881. 

This book, of which we made casual mention a few weeks since, has now been issued from 
the press complete, and our further acquaintance with it is very pleasant as well as instructive. 
Its suggestions to beginners contain some very condensed common sense. The body of the Manual 
is of the encyclopedia form or arrangement, and the author has very sensibly stripped it of every- 
thing technical, so far as he could. The items are many articles complete in themselves. The 
Sorting of Stock, Balance of Cloth, and many similar matters are quite extensively treated. 
Backing Fabrics is illustrated by pattern drafts. Boilers are extensively treated, and with a 
great many directions that are useful. Dye Woods, Drugs, Calculations, Recipes, are all carried 
through the body of the work. The articles on Color and Cross Drawing are particularly com- 
mendable. Many of the articles in this book are treatises in themselves, while the directions for 
dissecting and getting up patterns are the clearest and cleanest we have ever seen printed. A 
reed table and other useful tables are embodied in the work. It treats of cotton, wool, worsted 
and other matters to the extent of one hundred and eighty pages, and has also embodied with it 
a catalogue of instruments, stationery, and books for designers and others, together with a great 
many incidental matters very desirable, and is one of the best works published. The prices range 
from one to two dollars, according to binding. Address P. O. Box 530, West Troy, N. Y. — Boston 
Journal of Commerce. 

Messrs. A. & A. F. Spitzli having advertised their Manual extensively in advance of its 
publication, have been overwhelmed with orders, and are very much mortified by their inability 
to fill them promptly in consequence of the failure of their printers to issue the book with the 
promptness they had promised. We are in receipt of sample pages of the work, which clearly 
indicate the great value of the completed book. The Messrs. Spitzli are pressing the work as 
rapidly as possible. — The Manufactzirers 1 Review and Industrial Record. 



Spitzli's Manual and Illustrated Catalogue. A Catalogue of Instruments, Access- 
ories, Stationery, and Books for Managers, Weavers, and all others in any way connected with 
the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics. 

This valuable Manual is issued in a second edition of 182 pages, and 118 pages of Catalogue 
proper. The most interesting part of this publication is the condensed description which is given 
of the several processes required in actual manufacture through the entire list of fabrics. A 
descriptive list of all the appliances of manufacture is also given, and the whole forms an excel- 
lent work of reference for all engaged in textile industries. — The Textile Record of America. 



We have just received Spitzli's Manual and Illustrated Catalogue, and find it to contain a 
great amount of practical information on all branches of textile manufacture. Although the 
author is eminently qualified by practical personal experience to write a work of the kind, we are 
glad to find the work not confined to one man's knowledge, but constantly quoting the highest 
authorities on the subjects treated, and forming a condensed encyclopedia of technical definitions, 
tables, processes, receipts, illustrations, designs, etc., connected with the manufacture of textile 
goods. — The Textile. 




(one-third actual size.) 

The International" Improved Large Best Microscope Stand. See Page 9. 



M ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 

OF 

INSTRUMENTS, 

ACCESSORY APPARATUS 

STATIONER! AND BOOKS, 



FOR 



IDESIGrlsriERS ^ISTID OTKERS. 



ENGAGED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF 



TEXTILE FABRICS. 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI, 



P. O. BOX 530, 



WEST TROY, N. Y. 



TROY, N. Y. : 

"V^nVL. H. YOTJ3JTC3-, 8 & 9 FIRST STREET, 

1881. 



NOTICE. 



The prices in this Catalogue are adhered to as nearly as possible, but owing to 
frequent fluctuations in the value of many articles, alterations may be necessary 
from time to to time. 

In ordering, give the number with price of the article. 

Terms Cash, at the prices stated. Discounts cannot be given excepting on large 
orders, and to Dealers, Colleges and Schools. A large order means many articles 
not always a large sum. 

When the party ordering goods is unknown to us, the money should accompany 
the order, either by bank draft or postal money Order. Money should never be sent 
throttgh the mails. 

If money or checks are sent by mail the letters should be registered. 

Where, however, this is not done goods will be sent C. O. D., provided a re- 
mittance accompanies the order to insure the prompt taking up of the package on 
receipt. 

The express company's charges for collecting and returning money on C. O. D. 
bills must be paid by the party ordering the goods. 

Small articles may be sent by mail in open packages at one cent per ounce. 
Pointed tools and glassware have to pay full letter rates, six cents per ounce. 
Liquids cannot be sent by mail. 

Articles of Glass, such as Spectacles, Eye-glasses and Microscope Slides, can 
now be sent by mail at Merchandise Rates, but only in metallic boxes, as ap- 
proved by the department. These will be furnished at cost, and are very cheap. 
Postage must be prepaid, and the necessary amount must be included in the re- 
mittance accompanying the order. 

All packing boxes will be charged for at cost prices, and all goods will be 
packed with the utmost care ; but no responsibility will be assumed by us for 
breakage or other damage, after a package leaves our premises, except upon special 
contract. 

Such articles as are needed by a considerable number of our customers we shall 
endeavor to keep in store. Orders which require alterations or additions, and 
those for which the goods must be manufactured, we are prepared to fill with the 
utmost promptness, avoiding the vexatious delays formerly so common. 

A. & A. F. SPITZLI. 
West Troy, April i, 1881. 



PREFACE. 



The necessity of instruments thoroughly adapted to the requirements of those 
who are, or hope to be, entrusted with the responsibility of regulating the cost, 
value, character and attractions of textile fabrics, has been exceedingly great. As 
every advancing step of any art or science entails new and more exacting duties 
upon those who endeavor to keep apace, the necessity must become more and more 
imperative. The delay in meeting this demand has resulted in the use of many 
crude, inconvenient and unsatisfactory implem'ents in great and needless variety ; 
also a diversity of opinions and prejudices which of course will follow some to their 
graves. With an available supply of the needful, open to all, the more progressive 
will no doubt desire to be properly equipped. In a very short period the un- 
couth and imperfect instruments must give place to the neat and complete, in re- 
sponse to the demands of science and employers. Indeed to-day the successful 
applicant who brings to his new position a really complete outfit, and can show by 
their condition, manner of using and keeping them, that he is a workman of the 
higher order, at once commands respect and confidence not easily dissipated. 

In publishing this catalogue we do not aim to advertise a confusing profusion ; 
on the contrary our selections of instruments, etc., have been conducted from a 
practical standpoint, although covering an enormous field of inquiry. At present 
we desire to furnish only the simplest and best articles applicable to the many va- 
rieties of work, avoiding all that is needless or objectionable. All these the cata- 
logue enumerates in such a form that those who know their requirements may make 
a satisfactory selection, and that beginners and others who can not have such 
knowledge, may be easily and wisely aided and advised. The explanations of the 
instruments herein contained suffice to afford the purchaser a proper guarantee ; 
more explicit instructions will accompany the instruments or be furnished on ap- 
plication. Later improvements, accessories and novelties will be published either 
in supplementary pages or in new editions. Any specialties not enumerated in 
our catalogues or so published, will be procured or manufactured by us and supplied 
with the greatest possible dispatch at prices to defy competition. 

Inquiries are therefore always in order. We hope to gain much from new in- 
ventions which must follow the introduction of first-class instruments to so many 
who have never had the advantages of them, and we shall endeavor to render every 
aid and encouragement to inventors of improvements which we deem a decided 
advantage to any number of our customers, to the uttermost extent permissible by 
a trade distinctly in specialties which are required by such a limited number. 

To select suitable outfits with fixed prices, for the many kinds of work to be pro- 
vided for, would entail a loss to our customers or ourselves and prove unsatisfactory ; 
yet when a purchaser orders a large number of smaller articles upon which the mar- 
gin is greater in proportion to the price than of larger ones, we wish to make an ad- 
equate allowance similar to that made by those who are enabled to select sets or 
outfits suitable to their customers' wants. Our outfit reduction is certainly liberal 
and intended to afford the liberty to order just what is needed. If too liberal we 
shall soon discover it, and correct the failing ; but only when absolutely obliged to, 
for we shall make strenuous effort to make as few changes as possible ; alio to serve 
our patrons in a just and liberal manner, hoping in these and every other particular 
to give perfect satisfaction. 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



INTRODUCTION 



Designers who are fortunate enough to need no optical aid in dissecting a pat- 
tern should not pass us by or peruse these pages thinking they were prepared for 
others ; they will find many things enumerated which they constantly need. The 
best course by far even in regard to optical instruments is to provide them before 
the emergency compels it. By so doing the eyes are preserved in their full strength 
much longer, and a familiarity with instruments is attained before they become an 
absolute necessity. Dissecting the pattern is by no means dissecting in its entirety, 
which fact is our reason for asserting that no designer and no textile factory should 
be without a microscope and many of the accessories thereto. 

Of the drawing materials, stationery and books, sufficient remarks precede the re- 
spective lists ; we would in this place add only one more suggestion to amateurs. 
Ttie possession of a complete outfit should be a beginner's first ambition. In pro- 
curing it he should be governed by two facts, viz.: expensive ornamentation is un- 
necessary, but the possession of implements which reflect credit upon the owner's 
taste and judgment are an advantage to every workman. 



ILLUSTRATED* CATALOGUE. 



OUTFITS. 



Almost every mail brings inquiries about outfits. 

" What kind of outfits do you furnish ? " 

" How much does a good outfit cost? " 

" Do you take pay by installments ? " 

We answer : Our outfits consist of Instruments, Books and Stationery, in col- 
lections selected from our catalogue by the purchaser or ourselves. It is impossible 
to select beforehand outfits for the many branches in which our goods are required 
without injustice to our patrons and ourselves, therefore Designers, Superintendents, 
Overseers or Learners may select their outfits to suit their needs, or entrust the 
selection to us (in which case we need full particulars of the kind of work to be 
done with the instruments, &c, &c.) In either case if the selection will permit, we 
make the price for the whole 5 to 15 per cent, less than the sum of the separate cat- 
alogue prices. 

When we are entrusted with the selection we shall take great pains to send only 
such articles as are necessary, unless otherwise instructed, and in no case will we 
send goods the value of which exceeds the remittance received. 

As regards installments, we would now answer that we shall take orders from 
parties who do not wish to pay all at once, but with the understanding that our 
business and our profits are such that we can not send goods and collect afterwards. 
A retainer of 10 per cent, of the sum to be expended on an outfit must be sent with 
the order. This retainer will be kept until the last payment has been made, at 
which time we will deliver for the last payment, for the retainer and for the regular 
reduction (the same as that made to cash customers on outfits). Not less than $5.00 
will be taken as a single payment, excepting the last, which is to be equal to the 
balance due. Not less than $2.00 will be accepted as a retainer, although the price 
of the outfit wanted be less than $20.00. 

To aid beginners in selecting outfits, we give below an enumeration of the princi- 
pal parts of a complete outfit, to be used as a guide in ordering ; we have numbered 
it, as well as the parts, but omitted Catalogue numbers, which should always be 
given in ordering. 

OUTFIT NO. 1 . 

Part I. A Compound Achromatic Microscope for the examination of 
fibers and microscopic particles. The Binocular Economic Micro- 
scope, No. 102, with the best assortment of accessories $ 85 00 

II. A Single Dissecting Microscope, No. 152, with all the latest 

devices to make it The Dissecting Microscope for designers 25 00 

III. A Fine Scale in a Glass Case to keep it free from dust and the 
consequent injuries to the appearance and accuracy 12 00 

A Set of Weights, including Apothecaries, Avordupois, Troy, 
Gram and Grain Weights S 00 

IV. Two Dies for Cutting Samples to exact measure for test 
weighing 7 00 

V. A Twist Counter for ascertaining the amount of twist in any 

sample of yarn 10 00 

VI. A Simple Collection of Chemical Apparatus, adequate for all 

necessary tests iS 50 



o A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

VI I. Two LlNEN PROVERS, one £x£ inch and one i inch 5 uo 

VIII. A Set OF DISSECTING NEEDLES, Scissors, Forceps, Brush, &c, 

&c. In elegant case • 8 00 

IX. A Simple, but Efficient Set of Draughting Tools. In case. 15 00 
X. A First-class Lamp, with condensers and necessary accessories 
to make dissecting patterns at night practical without destroying 

the eyes 2000 

XI. A Complete Assortment of Pens, including all kinds used by 
designers in general ; several varieties of Common Steel Pens, 

Shading, Drawing, Lettering and Ruling Pens 10 00 

XII. Six Colors of Indelible Drawing Inks 2 50 

XIII. A Box of Crayons in 12 colors 2 50 

XIV. An Assortment of Lead Pencils for common use and for de- 
signing 3 00 

XV. A Complete Assortment of Design Paper, 5 quires in 6 kinds, 2 50 
XVI. A Cheap Scrap Book, to serve as a receptacle of samples picked 
up here and there, to be dissected and subsequently put in a better 

book 3 00 

XVII. A First-class Pattern Book for samples of goods manufactured 

under personal supervision. ... 6 00 

XVIII. A First-class Pattern Book for samples of goods made by 

others, which have been dissected 6 00 

XIX. A Design Book for use at mill 6 00 

XX. A Design Book for designs gotten from dissected samples .... 6 00 
XXI. A Color Book in which to keep specimens of colors taken from 
samples or otherwise procured. Space for receipts beside each 

sample and a " mat " leaf over all 10 00 

Few young men keep such a book, and yet in a few years one of inestimable 
value can be gotten together. 
XXII. Two Record Books, one for a record of general facts pertaining 
to manufacturing ; one strictly for patterns or the memorandums 
they call for (convenient reference marks to be used) 3 00 

XXIII. A Manual for Designers 2 00 

XXIV. Some other Standard Work on Weaving 10 00 

Total $285 50 

Reduction 35 50 

Price of this Complete Outfit $250 00 

It must not be understood that we claim this to be the only complete outfit, or 
that we confine anyone to it. It will, however, serve as a guide to some. For 
instance, instead of a Compound Microscope for $85.00 and a Single Microscope 
for $25.00, an instrument which will serve for both purposes can be furnished for 
$40.00 to $50.00, according to the accessories taken with it. Again some of these 
parts may already be supplied in part or entire, or may not be needed at all, in 
which case another saving can be effected. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS. 



We are prepared to furnish almost any kind of Optical Instruments, as our con- 
nections afford us the very best advantages, and we will do so to accommodate our 
customers at any time. But for the present we intend to confine our energy en- 
tirely to the development of instruments required by the textile interests, trusting 
to meet with such success that additional branches in the future will not detract 
from the benefits we hope to extend to our present class of patrons. For the same 
reason do we omit in this catalogue the microscopes of the highest order, except to 
mention here that we will furnish at makers' prices any instrument from the one 
represented upon the frontispiece of this work down to those which have been 
selected as being much lower in price and still sufficiently nice in detail to meet 
any ordinary factory requirements. Our Instruments are purchased from the most 
reliable manufacturers when not made by ourselves, and we feel that we are justi. 
fied in claiming that they are the best that can be procured for the prices herein 
published. Should the market values change materially before we can issue our 
next edition, the change will not be made in our prices without notice to the 
purchaser. 



' Tie International" Improved Large Best Microscope Stand. 

(See Frontispiece.) 

Price $325.00. With all the Latest Additions, Complete, $1,600.00. 

In these Instruments the Stands, the Object-Glasses, the Illuminating, and all 
accessory apparatus are carried to the highest possible perfection. 




Mode of Packing First-Class Microscopes and Apparatus. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



I I 




iBBlli 



||Ba 1*11 



iigj 



stiaJL * at * i Mil 

Mode of Packing First-Class Accessories. 





1B9&4IESIHI 




JfilJ/fl(ffJli/l//li)ll////jtiMil^ 



Mode of Packing First-Class Accessories, 




12 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

THE ECONOMIC MICROSCOPE, 

The Microscope is now such an absolute necessity for the Designer, to enable 
him satisfactorily to carry on his investigations, that it is more than ever incum- 
bent on the optician to construct a sound economic instrument, adapted to the 
special requirements of this large and increasing class. 

For ordinary investigations, many of the delicate adjuncts applied to the higher 
priced instruments are unnecessary, and tend rather to confuse than to assist the 
beginner. 

A firm Stand and well corrected Object-glasses are, however, indispensable ; and, 
with a view to meet this want, we now introduce to the special attention of de- 
signers the " Economic Microscope." 

The description following will fully explain both the construction and the mode 
of using this instrument, while the scale of prices at the conclusion will, we trust, 
convince all who peruse them that we are able to offer those who do not desire to 
spend a large sum on a microscope, an instrument thoroughly adapted to their 
necessities, at a very moderate outlay. 

A Compound Achromatic Microscope consists essentially of two parts — an Object- 
glass and an Eyepiece — so called because they are respectively near the object and 
the eye when the instrument is in use. The object-glass screws, and the eyepiece 
slides, into opposite ends of a tube termed the Body, and upon the union of the 
two the magnifying power depends. The Microscope Stand is an arrangement for 
carrying the body, and is combined with a Stage for holding or giving traverse to 
an object, and a Mirror or some other provision for illumination. 

The Stand of the Economic Microscope is made in two forms — the one with a 
s/iding coarse adjustment for focussing the object, and the other where the quick 
movement is produced by a rack and pinion. On both stands the fine adjustment 
is given by means of a milled head at the top of the stem. The Object-glasses 
are attached to the stand with the Universal or Society Screw. 

Description of the Stand (No. 99) and Apparatus as Supplied for $40.00. 

The foundation of the stand (No. 99) is a heavy horse-shoe base, at the bend of 
which is a firm pillar, having at its top a hinge joint, which allows the body to be 
inclined at any angle, and is sufficiently firm to permit of its being placed hori- 
zontal for use with the Camera Lucida. 

At this price the instrument includes one Eyepiece and two Object-glasses, called 
the i-inch and ^-inch, from their magnifying power being nearly the same as single 
lenses of such focal lengths, a condensing lens for the illumination of opaque 
objects, a glass plate with ledge, for examination of fluids, and a pair of brass 
pliers. The whole packed in a neat Mahogany case, with lock and key. 

Its Linear Magnifying powers are nearly as under : 

Draw-tube closed. Draw-tube pulled out. 

i-inch , 63 93 

J-inch 200 290 

The Body is supplied with a draw, or lengthening tube, which must be pulled 
out to give the full power to the object-glass. 

The Quick- focussing movement is produced by sliding the body up and down in 
the tube, and the slow motion is given by the tube sliding over the inner stem with 
a spring inside, and adjusted by the milled head. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



13 



The Stage, upon which the ohject is placed, has two springs, the pins attached 
to which may be inserted in any of the four holes on the stage, and by their pres- 
sure (which can be varied by pushing them more or less down) they will hold the 
object under them or allow it to be moved about with the greatest accuracy. 

The Mirror, besides swinging in the rotating semicircle is attached to a bar, 
with a joint at each end allowing a lateral movement, so as to throw oblique light 
on the object ; and for this purpose the tube beneath the stage, carrying the Dia- 
phragm, is attached by bayonet catches, and can be instantly removed, leaving a 
clear and very thin stage, allowing the utmost obliquity of illumination. This 
tube also carries the Polariscope, etc., etc. 

The Diaphragm, slides in the substage-fitting, and consists of a tube containing 
two caps, furnishing two sizes of openings immediately in contact with the under 
surface of the slide to be examined, and also completely cutting off all light from 
the mirror when opaque objects are to be viewed. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USE. 

To adjust the focus of the Object-glass — 

In No. 99, for the quick adjustment, slide the tube up or down in the fitting. If 
a slight spiral movement is given to the tube by the finger and thumb, the motion 
may be made very gradual. 

In No. 100 the same adjustment is made by turning the milled head backward 
or forward. 

In both, turning the milled head gives the slow or fine adjustment. 

The light (which for transparent objects is reflected from the mirror, and for 
opaque objects is condensed by means of the lens,) should, in general, be upon the 
left of the observer if the microscope body is inclined, but in front if the Instru- 
ment is used in a vertical position. The best is that from a white cloud on a 
bright day ; but a very satisfactory effect can be produced by means of a petroleum 
oil or gas lamp, provided it is placed not more than 10 or 12 inches from the 
Instrument. 

For the examination of minute stria?, side light is necessary ; for this purpose 
the Mirror must be used obliquely, the diaphragm with its fitting removed, which 
will then allow the light to impinge on the object at a sufficiently oblique angle. 

With the i-inch Object-glass the light is generally in excess, and has to be 
lessened by means of the diaghragm fitting under the stage ; this can be slid up 
and down, thereby increasing or decreasing the cone of admitted rays of light. 

To illuminate opaque objects the light is thrown upon them from above. A small 
condensing lens, fitting into the stage, is used for this purpose ; its focus for a lamp 
or candle, 4 inches from it, is about 3 inches ; for daylight 2 inches. A large 
object can be placed upon the stage, but small ones are generally either laid on a 
slip of glass or held in the forceps. When viewing opaque objects, the diaphragm 
should be placed in position and the solid cap attached, so as - to exclude all light 
from below the stage. 

A glass plate, with a ledge and some pieces of thin glass, are applicable for many 
purposes, but are specially intended for objects in jluid. Thus a drop is placed 
upon the plate and covered by a piece of thin glass, or, the object being put upon 
the plate and the thin glass over it, the fluid is applied near one side and runs un- 
der by capillary attraction. 



14 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

Glass of any kind requires occasional cleaning ; a piece of soft wash-leather is the 
best for the purpose. 

The fronts of the Object-glasses may be carefully wiped ; but if they require any- 
thing more, it must be done by the makers. 

When cleaning the Eye-pieces, which should be done frequently, the cells con- 
taining the glasses must be unscrewed, and replaced one at a time, so that they may 
not be mixed. 

Any dirt upon the Eye-pieces may be detected by turning them round whilst 
looking through the Instrument ; but if the Object-glasses are not clean, or are in- 
jured, it will for the most part only be seen by the object appearing misty. 

The whole or any part of the extra apparatus described in the following pages 
may be added to the instrument at any time, without its being sent back to the 
makers. 

ADDITIONAL APPARATUS. 

Although the Instrument, as already described, may be considered complete and 
probably sufficient for many observers, yet the following additions can be made, all 
of which, packed in a small tray, will fit into the case which contains the Micro- 
scope. 

When the light from the concave mirror proves insufficient for any object re- 
quiring an intense transmitted light, the Achromatic Condenser may be employed 
with advantage ; this slides, by its tube, into the fitting under the stage of the In- 
strument, in which it has to be moved up or down until the focus of its lenses falls 
upon the object, the light having been previously reflected in the proper direction 
by the mirror. 

The Illumination of Opaque Objects, already described, must be more or less 
one-sided ; and in most cases it is desirable that it should be so. An illumination 
on any or every side, however, is easily obtained, provided the object is not too 
large, by means of a Lieberkuhn. This is a silvered cup, which slides or screws 
upon the front of the object-glass ; and light thrown upwards by the mirror will be 
reflected by it down upon the object ; it will then be found that, by slightly vary- 
ing the inclination of the mirror, every necessary alteration in the direction of the 
illumination can be obtained. 

It is in most cases necessary, when using the Lieberkuhn, to slide a Dark Well 
under the stage to prevent any light entering the Object-glass direct from the 
Mirror. > 

Dark-Field Illuminatiott is, to appearance, a means of seeing a transparent ob- 
ject as an opaque one. The principle, however, is that all the light shall be thrown 
under the object, but so obliquely that it can not enter the Object-glass unless in- 
terrupted by the object ; this is best accomplished by Wenham's Parabolic Re- 
flector. 

In this Microscope, the Parabolic Reflector fits under the stage in the same fitting 
as the achromatic condenser, and the adjustment of its focus upon the object (which 
is when its apex almost touches it) is made by giving it a spiral motion in the fit- 
ting — that is, carefully pushing it up or down at the same time that it is turned 
round by the milled edge. As the rays of light must be parallel when they enter 
it, the Flat Mirror is generally used ; daylight will then require only direct reflec- 
tion, but the rays from an artificial source will have to be made parallel by putting 
the Condenser between the light and the mirror, about if inches from the former 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. I 5 

and 4-J inches from the latter. Nearly the whole surface of the mirror should be 
equally illuminated, which may be tested by temporarily placing upon it a card or 
piece of white paper. 

Polarized Light, a beautiful appliance by which many objects otherwise almost 
invisible are shown in every imaginable color, can here only be treated of by de- 
scribing the way in which it is applied to this Microscope by the following appa- 
ratus : A Nicol's prism as a polarizer fits, and can be turned round, in the fitting 
under the stage ; another prism is fitted to an adapter which screws above the Ob- 
ject-glass, and also revolves. When, only alternate black and white images are 
given by the prisms alone, a film of selenite, fitted in a cap which slips over the 
Polarized prism, will produce colored ones. 

To draw an object, the Camera Lucida is used. It slides on in the place of the 
cap of either Eyepiece, with its flat side uppermos,. The body of the Micro- 
scope must be in a horizontal position, and the whole instrument has to be raised 
until the edge of the prism is exactly 10 inches from a piece of paper placed 
upon the table. The light must be so regulated that no more than is really neces- 
sary is upon the object, whilst a full light should be thrown upon the paper. Only 
one eye is to be used ; and, if one-half of the pupil be directed over the edge of 
the prism, the object will appear upon the paper, and can be traced on it by a 
pencil, the point of which will also be seen. Should any blueness be visible in the 
field the prism is pushed too far on, and should be drawn back till the color dis- 
appears. 

Substituting in the place of the object a piece of glass ruled into iooths and 
ioooths of an inch, termed a Micrometer, its divisions can be marked on the same 
or another piece of paper, and, by comparing them with the sketch, the object can 
be most accurately measured. These divisions, also, if compared with a rule 
divided into inches and tenths, will give the magnifying power ; thus, supposing 
iooths of an inch when marked on the paper measured 1 inch and 3-ioths, the 
magnifying power would be 130. 

The Live-box hardly needs description ; the object is confined between the glass 
of the lower part and that of the cap ; the distance between them can be varied 
by sliding the latter more or less on. As the thin glass is only dropped into a 
slight recess in the top of the cap, and is held there by the heads of the two screws, 
it can be easily taken out for wiping or be replaced by another when broken. 

The Glass Trough for larger objects in water must be used with its thinner plate 
of glass in front. The modes of confining such objects and keeping them near the 
front surface must vary according to the occasion. For many it is a good plan to 
place a piece of glass diagonally in the trough, its lower edge being kept in its 
place by a strip at the bottom ; then, if the object introduced is heavier than water, 
it will sink till stopped by the sloping plate. Sometimes a very slight spring may 
be applied behind this plate to advantage, with a wedge in front to regulate the 
depth. 

Arrangements are made for all those parts which may require cleaning. Thus, 
the Parbolic Reflector unscrews from the table, the Nicol's Prisms will push out of 
their fittings, and the Camera-Lucida Prism can be taken out by turning aside the 
plate that covers it. 



I 6 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

PRICES OF THE ECONOMIC MICROSCOPE AND APPARATUS. 

No. Price. 

99. The Monocular Economic Microscope, with sliding coarse ad- 
justment, i-inch and J-inch Object-glasses, one Eye-piece, Concave 
Mirror, Condensing Lens, glass plate with ledge, brass pliers, and 
Diaphragm, in Mahogany Case $40 00 

100. The Monocular Economic Microscope, with Rack-and-pinion 

coarse adjustment, with i-inch and £-inch Object-glasses, two Eye- 
pieces, Concave and Plane Mirrors, side Condensing Lens, Dia- 
phragm, Stage-Forceps, pliers, glass slip with ledge, in Mahogany 
Case 55 00 

101. The Monocular Economic Microscope, with glass stage, and the 

same Object-glasses and accessories as are furnished with No. 100, 

in fine Upright Mahogany Case 65 00 

102. The Binocular Economic Microscope, with i-inch and J-inch 

Object-glasses, two pairs of Eye-pieces, Concave and Plane Mirrors, 
side Condensing Lens for the illumination of opaque objects, mova- 
ble glass stage, stage-forceps, pliers and glass plate with ledge, in 
Mahogany Case 85 00 



THE NEW BINOCULAR NATIONAL MICROSCOPE. 

103. The New Binocular National Microscope, with Concentrically 
Rotating Glass Stage, and i-inch (No. 695) and £-inch (No. 698) 
Object-glasses, having the respective apertures of 19 and 75 de- 
grees, and magnifying from about 47 to 450 diameters ; 2 pairs of 
Eye-pieces, Stage-forceps, Condensing Lens on stand (No. 691), a 
glass plate with ledge for the examination of objects in fluid, and a 
pair of pliers ; the whole packed in an elegant French polished Ma- 
hogany Case, with good brass handle and lock, and a drawer for the 
accessories 1 10 00 

DESCRIPTION. 

The Stand, which is 15 inches in height, is constructed entirely of brass, of the 
highest finish and best workmanship, having a broad, heavy tripod base. From 
the centre of this base rises a stout column, to the top of which is attached, by a firm 
joint, the Jackson model arm, carrying the compound body, by which the inclina- 
tion can be varied to any degree, from vertical to horizontal, the whole instrument 
being perfectly steady and free from tremor in any position. The very highest 
powers may be used with it, as the body, being supported by the arm throughout its 
entire length, can not have any unsteadiness or motion of its own. 

The quick Adjustment of Focus is effected by means of Rack and Pinion, with 
large Milled Heads, which works so smoothly that there is no need to use the Fine 
Adjustment for any power lower than \ of an inch. The latter adjustment is by 
means of a delicate Micrometer screw and lever attachment, working with absolute 
freedom from all motion, and by which the very highest powers may be focused 
with the greatest exactness. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. I J 

The Stage is of glass, with a complete rotation in the Optic Axis, upon the top 
of which is a sliding object-holder, very thin, and with a spring clip for holding the 
object in place during rotation. This clip is removable, in an instant, and the Stage 
forceps can be inserted in its place, thus allowing the latter to be moved about with 
the object-carrier. Beneath the Stage is a tube carrying all the sub-apparatus, as 
the Achromatic Condenser, Wenham's Parabola, Polarizing Apparatus, etc., etc. 
This is securely attached to the Stage by a bayonet catch, and can be instantly de- 
tached, leaving a very thin and unobstructed Stage for Oblique Illumination. The 
Shutter Diaphragm is of novel construction, with the various sized openings almost 
in contact with the underside of the object under examination, a great improve- 
ment upon the old revolving disk Diaphragm. A Double Mirror Concave and 
Plane is hung upon a swinging bar, and arranged with every possible motion for 
Direct and Oblique Illumination. 
No. Price. 

134. The New National Monocular Microscope, with Concentrically 

Rotating Glass Stage, and i-inch (No. 695) and J-inch (No. 698) 
Object-glasses, having the respective apertures of 19 and 75 degrees, 
and magnifying from about 47 to 450 diameters ; 2 Eye-pieces, Stage- 
forceps, Condensing Lens on stand (No. 691), a glass plate with 
ledge and a pair of pliers ; the whole packed in an elegant French 
polished Mahogany Case, with good brass handle and lock, and a 
drawer for accessories , $85 00 

135. The New Binocular National Microscope, with i-inch (No. 695) 

Object-glass, 1 pair of Eye-pieces, Nos. 1 or 2, as desired, Stage- 
forceps, Condensing Lens on stand (No. 691), glass plate and pliers, 
in Mahogany Case 95 00 

136. The New Monocular National Microscope, with 1 Eye-piece, 

Nos. 1 or 2, as desired, and the same Object-glass and fittings as 

with No. 135. In Mahogany Case 70 00 

137. The New Binocular National Microscope Stand, with 1 pair 

of Eye-pieces, Concave and Plane Mirrors, Diaphragm, Stage- 
forceps, glass plate and pliers 75 00 

138. The New Monocular National Microscope Stand, with 1 Eye- 

piece, Concave and Plane Mirrors, Diaphragm, Stage-forceps, glass 

plate and pliers •. 50 00 



i8 



A. & A. F. SPITZI.I'S 



THE NEW HISTOLOGICAL DISSECTING MICROSCOPE, 





fUM 



No. 140. No. 140. 

No. Price. 

140. The New Histological Dissecting Microscope, with outfit as 



described below 



This instrument combines a Compound Microscope with a Single and Dissecting 
one in a very compact, practical and economical form. The stout immovable arm 
carrying the lens when used as a Single Microscope is so arranged that a compound 
body with Eye-piece and draw-tube may be attached to its upper surface, whilst 
beneath it is fitted with the Society Screw, whereby any objective may be used with 
it. The Rack-and-Pinion adjustment works so smoothly that a |-inch objective 
may be focused with the utmost exactness. The Mirror beneath the stage is so 
adjusted upon a swinging arm that it may be turned up over the stage for the 
illumination of an opaque object. A revolving diaphragm, with various sized 
openings, is attached to the under side of the stage. The outfit consists of a single 
lens of i-inch focus for dissecting and botanical work, and an achromatic objective 
of J-inch focus, the same as furnished with the Economic Microscopes, and one 
Eye-piece, giving a range of powers, with the draw-tube, of between 200 and 300 
diameters, a pair of brass pliers, two dissecting needles in Ebony handles, and a 
glass plate with ledge. The whole packed in a neat Mahogany case with lock. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



19 



No. Price. 

141. The New Histological Dissecting Microscope, with the same 

outfit as with 140 and the addition of the Economic i-inch Objec- 
tive $32 00 

142. The New Histological Dissecting Microscope, same as with 

140, with all the additional accessories necessary to make it the best 
and most complete Dissecting Microscope at present available to 
designers, at the same time meeting all the requirements of an 

" Examining " Microscrope $40 00 

To all who are unable to procure both single and compound Instruments, and 
still need both, this Instrument is especially recommended. 



NEW MODEL DISSECTING SINGLE MICROSCOPE. 




No. 
150. 



No. 150. 
One-half Actual Size. 



Price, 



New Model Dissecting Single Microscope, Stand all brass, 
with broad circular Base and large firm Stage ; Jointed Arm to 
to carry the lenses, with rack-and-pinion adjustment of focus ; 
Concave Mirror and Side Condensing Lens, with complete adjust- 
ments ; two single lenses of \\ and i-inch focus" also, other im- 
portant accessories. The whole packed in a strong Mahogany Case 
with handle and lock $15 00 



20 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

No. Trice. 

151. New Model Dissecting Single Microscope, Stand only, with 

Lens ; no Case or Condenser $10 OO 

152. New Model Dissecting Single Microscope, with accessories and 

additions to make it a very complete instrument for dissecting or 
" picking out " patterns, as well as many other uses of the designing 
room and office 20 OO 

This instrument has been specially designed to meet a long-felt want for a 
thoroughly good dissecting Microscope at a very moderate cost. The Stand is 
very firm, with a roomy and convenient Stage of the exact height from table for 
convenient use ; the lenses are exceedingly good, and of the most useful powers 
and the whole will be found very satisfactory for most purposes. 

165: The Favorite Dissecting Microscope. Plain brass base, which 
answers also for a convenient stage, sliding adjustment, 1 lens of 2- 
inch focus, another more powerful i-inch focus. In neat case 10 00 

166. The Favorite Dissecting Microscope. Same as No. 165, but only 

one lens 6 00 

167. The Amateur Dissecting Microscope. Similar to No. 165, with 

elegant black walnut base, and several special accessories required 

by the beginner 8 00 

168. The Amateur Dissecting Microscope. Similar to No. 166. with 

black walnut base 5 00 

169. The School Microscope 6 00 

170. The School Dissecting Microscope. This instrument is the same 

as The School Microscope, No. 169, with the addition of two hand 
rests, which at once convert it into a most excellent and convenient 
Dissecting Microscope. They are attached to the sta'ge by milled 
heads, and are instantly removed if desired. The whole, micro- 
scope, lenses and hand rests, can be packed in the case, which 
measures six by three inches, and two and a quarter inches deep. 
The lenses are of a most excellent quality, the stand firm and well 
finished, and it would seem impossible to improve tm this really ex- 
cellent instrument, either in compactness, efficiency or cheapness. 
The accompaniments are the same as those with No. 169 8 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



21 



THE SCHOOL DISSECTING MICROSCOPE. 




No. 170. 
No. Price. 

171. Same as No. 170, with necessary accessories to adapt it for dissecting 

patterns $10 00 

172. The Excelsior Pocket Microscope, with three lenses 275 

173. With two lenses 2 50 

174. With three lenses and hard rubber slides, with square openings £ and 

•J-inch 3 00 



22 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



THE UNIVERSAL HOUSEHOLD MICROSCOPE, 



No. 

i So. 




No. 1 80. 
One-half Actual Size. 



Price. 



The Universal Household Microscope. There are a number of 
Microscopes under this name in the market, and in adding ours to 
the list, we have endeavored to add to their efficiency and conveni- 
ence, whilst somewhat reducing the cost. The stand is ten inches 
in height, with hinged joint, allowing it to be inclined to any angle 
for convenience of observation. The base is of cast iron, the de- 
sign forming the monogram, R. & T. B., handsomely bronzed, the 
compound body of finely lacquered brass, with draw-tube for in- 
creasing the power. The Object-glass is of three powers, usable 
separately or combined, magnifying from about 20 to 100 diameters, 
or, in popular terms, from 400 to 10,000 times. The markings upon 
the scales of butterflies' wings, and most animalcules in pond-water, 
are very well shown by these glasses. A pair of brass forceps, two 
glass slips and one prepared object accompany it, the whole con- 
tained in a neat and strong walnut wood case $5 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



23 



No. Price. 

181. The Universal Household Microscope, the same as 180, with an 
Achromatic Object-glass of three powers, in place of the one fur- 
nished with 180, magnifying from 30 to 150 diameters, with excel- 
lent definition, entirely free from color $8 00 

183. The Universal Household Microscope, with rack and pinion ad- 
justment of focus, a Condensing Lens, for the illumination of opaque 
objects and an Achromatic Object-glass (Triplet), giving powers 
from about 30 to 250 diameters. The same fittings accompany it 
as are furnished with No. 660, and the whole is packed in a hand- 
some French polished Mahogany Case 12 00 

Our object of inserting these household instruments into this catalogue is not to 
extend the business beyond our line, but we do it because we know that many men 
engaged in factories would long ago have supplied their households with this un- 
excelled means of instructive entertainment, had they known just where to apply 
for what was wanted, or felt that they could depend upon a fair bargain if they did 
attempt such a purchase. 



ACHROMATIC OBJECTIVES (FRENCH MANUFACTURE). 



These Object-glasses are all triple combinations, excepting the first, which is a 
doublet ; and are really well corrected lenses, giving a clear, well-lighted field with 
excellent definition. They all have the French Screw the same as that of No. iS3 t 
but can be fitted with the Society Screw for an additional cost of 75 cents each. 
F. M. A. Achromatic Objective No. 0, i-inch, doublet % 2 50 



B. 
C. 
D. 
E. 
F. 
G. 



" I, i " 


trij 


" 2, + " 




" 3, J- " 

" 4. i " 




" " 5, - 1 - " 
" 6, JL " 





3 


00 


3 


50 


4 


00 


5 


00 


7 


00 


10 


00 



HAND MAGNIFIERS, ETC, 



200. 


Oval 


-shape, 


Hard- 


rubber 


Case, 




Lens, 






about 


f-in. d 


am. 


30 


201. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 




" 


- 


- 


" 


1 " 




50 


204. 


" 




" 


" 


" 




" 


- 


- 


" 


i| " 




90 


205. 


Long-shape 


'• 


" 


" 




" 


- 


- 


" 


f " 




40 


206. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 




" 


- 


- 


" 


1 5 « 

1 6" 




60 


207. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 




" 


with 


dia'm 


" 


1 " 




75 


208. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


2 


" 


. " 


" 


" 


I " 




1 00 


209. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


3 


" 


" 


" 


" 


1 " 




1 50 


215. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


2 


" 


- 


- 


" 


t " 




65 


216. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


2 


" 


- 


- 


" 


* S K 
1 6 




90 


219. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


3 


" 


- 


- 


" 


i " 




90 


220. 


" 


" 


" 


" 


" 


3 


" 


- 


- 


" 


1 6 




1 25 



1 and i 



24 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



No. Price. 

225. Linen-p'rover, Brass frame vvitli £ or £-in Open Square $0 50 

226. " '• Nickel-plated, " " " 75 

227. " " " Opening; Achromatic lens. 1 00 

228. " " Brass frame, t in. Open Square 1 50 



230. 
230. 
231. 
232. 
232/ 
233- 
233^ 
234- 
234-' 
235- 
235-" : 
236. 
236/ 

237- 
238. 
239. 

240. 
241. 



WATCHMAKERS' AND ENGRAVERS' GLASSES, etc. 

Watchmakers' Glass of •£ , i-inch, i-J-inches diameter, as desired 

" with two lenses, of different powers 

" " small lens, high power 

Engravers' " " 2 plano-convex lenses, if-inches " 

" " 1 double " lens, if-inches " 

" " 2 piano " lenses, if-inches " 

" " 1 double " lens, if-inches " 
" " 2 piano " lenses, l^-inches " 

" " 1 double " lens, i-J-inches " 
" " 2 piano " lenses, 2-J-inches " 

" " 1 double " lens, 2^-inches " 

Seed Microscope, with glass cage for living insects, small size 

" " " " " " medium size . . . 

" " " " '' " large size 

" forceps for living insects, folds in pocket-case, 
Three-legged Microscope, Brass frame, 2 plano-convex lenses, adjust- 
ment for focus 

Three-legged Microscope, Rubber frame, 2 plano-convex lenses 

" Steel frame, 2 plano-convex lenses 





75 




75 


I 


50 




75 


2 


00 


I 


00 


2 


50 


I 


25 


3 


00 


1 


50 




75 


1 


00 


1 


50 


2 


00 




75 


1 


00 


1 


25 



242 

243 
244 
245 

246 

247 

248 



CODDINGTON LENSES, 

Coddington lens, Brass frame, small size 

" " " medium size 

" " " large size 

" German-silver frame, with cover 

" Silver-plated " " very fine article. 

" and engraved, " " " 

. " " Gilt " " " " " . 



p 00 

1 50 

2 00 
2 50 

4 00 

5 00 

6 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



25 




No. 231. 



No. 242. 



No. 230. 



26 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 





No. 230. s 



No. 239. 





No. 246. 



No. 236. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 

CODDINGTON LENSES, ETC, 



27 




Nos. 355-358. 



No. 343. 



No. Price. 

343. Combination of Three Lenses, mounted in Tortoise-shell, on Brass 

Stand, with Adjusting Arms and Sliding Forceps for holding an 

object $10 00 

344. Combination of Three Lenses, in Tortoise-shell, on Brass Stand, with 

Adjusting Arm 7 00 

Combination of Three Lenses, mounted in Tortoise-shell, for pocket, 5 00 

" Silver 10 00 

" Aluminium Bronze .... 10 00 

" German Silver 8 00 

" Gold 20 00 

" Silver 7 50 

" Aluminium Bronze 7 50 

" German Silver 6 00 



347- 


Coddington 


Lens, f-inch focus, " 


348. 


" 


f-inch " 


349- 


" 


" f-inch " " 


35o. 


" 


" ^--inch " 


35i. 


" 


" ^-inch " " 


352. 


" 


" ^-inch " " 


353- 


" 


" £-inch " " 



ACHROMATIC TRIPLETS, 

355. Beck's Achromatic Triplet, i-inch focus, in Silver Case $12 00 

356. " " " f-inch " " " IOOO 

357. " " " i-inch " " " 10 00 

358. " " " i-inch " " " 1200 



28 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

DEMONSTRATION LENSES, 



406. Demonstration Lenses. A set of six, if inches diameter, showing the 
forms of the various kinds of lenses, viz.: Double Convex, Double 
Concave, Piano-Convex, Piano-Concave, Meniscus Convex and 
Meniscus Concave. Per set $2 50 

COSMORAMA LENSES. 

409. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 8 inches diameter, and either 30, 36, 

48 or 72 inches focus, each 4 00 

410. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 7 inches diameter, same foci as 409, 

each 3 00 

411. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 6 inches diameter, of either 24, 30, 36, 

48 or 72 inches focus, each 2 50 

412. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 5 inches diameter, of either 18, 20, 24, 

30, 36, 48 or 72 inches focus, each 1 75 

413. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 4 inches diameter, of either 12, 14, 16, 

18, 20, 24, 30, 36, 48 or 72 inches focus, each 1 25 

414. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 3 inches diameter, any focus 6 to 36 

inches, each 75 

415. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 2 inches diameter, any focus 6 to 36 

inches, each 60 

416. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, i£ inches diameter, any focus 5 to 48 

inches, each 50 



MICROSCOPE AND TELESCOPE LENSES, 

417. Double or Piano-Convex Lens, 1 inch diameter, 2 inches focus 

418. " " " f " " 1* " 

419. " " " I " " r± " 

420. " " " i " "1 •' " 

421. " " " 1 " " i " 

422. " " " I " " I " 

423. " " " -JL. " " 4 " " 

424. " " " i " " i " 





75 




75 




75 




75 




75 




75 




75 




75 



ACHROMATIC OBJECT-GLASSES FOR SPY-GLASSES AND 

TELESCOPES, 



425. Achromatic Object-glass, i-J inches diameter, 18 to 30 inches focus. 



426. 

427. 
428. 
429. 
430. 
431. 
432. 



if 
2 



18 to 30 

18 to 30 



2 00 

3 50 

4 00 



extra fine finish, 2 in. diameter, 36 in. focus, 6 00 



2* 

3 

3* 

4 



44 



54 
60 



10 00 
25 00 
50 00 
80 00 



No 
435 
436 
437 
438 

43g 
440 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 29 

PRISMS. 

Price 
Solid Flint Glass Prisms, 3 inches long, each 5° 



60 

80 

1 00 

1 25 

1 50 



READING AND PICTURE GLASSES. 

524. Reading Glass, oxidized metal frame, double convex lens, 2 inches 

diameter 75 

526. Reading Glass, oxidized metal frame, double convex lens, i\ inches 

diameter 1 00 

527. Reading Glass, oxidized metal frame, double convex lens, 3$ inches 

diameter 1 75 

529. Reading Glass, oxidized metal frame, double convex lens, 4-J inches 

diameter 3 00 

530. Reading Glass, gilt metal frame, ivory handle, one double convex 

lens, i\ inches diameter 2 25 

531. Reading Glass, gilt metal frame, ivory handle, double convex lens, 4 

inches diameter 4 00 

532. Reading Glass, black metal frame, wood handle, double convex lens, 3 

inches long by \\ inches wide 125 

533. Reading Glass, black metal frame, wood handle, double convex lens, 

4 inches long by 2 inches wide 2 00 

534. Picture Glasses, wood frame and handle, double convex lens, 5 inches , 

diameter 4 00 

535. Picture Glasses, wood frame and handle, double convex lens, 6 inches 

diameter 5 °° 



DOUBLE CYLINDRICAL READING GLASSES. 

These entirely new and very superior Reading Glasses are made of a double 
cylindrical lens, with its axes crossing at right angles, giving an entirely flat field 
free from chromatic or spherical aberration, reading to the extreme edge. Then- 
great superiority to the old form of double convex lenses is apparent at a glance. 

540. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, black handle, 

2x3 inches 2 50 

541. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, black handle, 

2^ *3± inches 3 5 

542. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, black handle, 

2 T s F x3f inches 4 50 

543. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, black handle, 

2 i x 4i inches „ 5 50 



30 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

No. Price. 

544. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, black handle, 

2#X4-J inches $6 50 

545. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, ivory handle, 

2x3 inches 4 00 

546. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, ivory handle, 

2}%x3£ inches ' 5 00 

547. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, German silver frame, ivory handle, 

2 y 5 g x3f inches 6 00 

54S. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, gilt frame, ivory handle, 2|- 3 -gX3^ 

inches $6 00 

549. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, gilt frame, ivory handle, 2§\4£ 

inches 9 50 

550. Reading Glass, double cylindrical, gilt frame, ivory handle, 2-Jx4^ 

inches 10 50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



31 




Nos. 540 to 550. 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 




Nos., 524 to 533. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



33 



PRICES OF THE*EC0N0MIC MICROSCOPE APPARATUS. 

No. Price. 

664. Eye-pieces for 100. Nos. 1, 2 or 3, each $4 50 

665. Eye-pieces for 101. Nos. i, 2 or 3, each 5 00 

666. Side Condensing- Lens 2 50 

667. Stage-Forceps 2 50 

668. Pliers 35 

ADDITIONAL APPARATUS. 

630. lleberkuhn to i-inch object-glass 3 oo 

640. Dark Well 2 00 

641. Achromatic Condenser and Fitting S 00 

642. Wenham's Parabolic Reflector, for Dark-field Illumination 8 00 

643. Flat Mirror for 99, (in which case a double one is substituted for 

the concave single one, which has to be returned,) 2 75 

644. Polarizing Apparatus, complete with Prisms, film of Selenite, and 

adapter 13 50 

645. Wollaston's Camera Lucida, for drawing an object .- . 6 50 

646. Glass Micrometer, ruled into f £- ths and y^'o^ths of an inch. ... 2 00 

647. Small Live-Box 2 50 

648. Glass Trough, complete with Wedge and Spring 2 50 

649. All the above " Additional Apparatus," Nos. 630 to 649, if ordered 

at once 4° °° 

650. Vertical Camera Lucida for drawing objects 8 00 

NEW NATIONAL SERIES OF OBJECTIVES. 

In order to meet the universal demand for good and well corrected Object- 
glasses adapted to the wants of true observers, who need reliable glasses at a mod- 
erate cost, impossible in lenses of the very highest grade, we have now introduced 
Beck's New National Series, which we confidently recommend as the best low-priced 
Objectives ever made. They are corrected with great care, are exceedingly well 
mounted, furnished with the Society Screw, and packed in handsome engraved 
Brass Boxes. The Series is as follows : 



No 


Focal 
Length. 


Linear magni 
Draw Tubes. 


ying power nearly, 
with Eye-pieces. 


Degrees of 
angle of 
aperture. 


Price. 






* 


Xo. 1. 


No. 2. 


No. 3. 






693 


3 in. 


closed 


12 


20 


32 


7 ° 


% 7 00 


694 


2 in. 


closed 


23 


43 


70 


10 ° 


7 00 


695 


1 in. 


closed 


47 


78 


116 


19 ° 


9 00 


696 


fin. 


closed 


6=; 


no 


170 


25 ° 


10 00 


697 


k in- 


closed 


100 


170 


260 


38 ° 


12 00 


698 


iin. 


closed 


200 


340 


520 


75 ° 


12 00 


698* 


\m. 


closed 


275 


480 


750 


85 ° 


15 00 


699 


iin. 


closed 


365 


620 


965 


95 ° 


20 00 


699* 


TV in - 


closed 


730 


1240 


1930 


no ° 


30 00 


700 


s'o in. 


closed 


900 


1550 


2500 


120 ° 


45 00 



34 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



ADDITIONAL APPARATUS. 

No. Price. 

639. Lieberkuhn to 1-inch Object-glass •$ 3 50 

651. All the above Additional Apparatus, from Nos. 630 to 649, not in- 
cluding 645, if ordered at once 40 00 

653. Double Nose Piece, Angular 7 00 

653*. Triple Nose Piece : ' 15 00 

662. Eye-pieces, Nos. 1, 2 or 3, for New National Microscopes, each 5 50 

690. Stage, with Horizontal and Vertical Mechanical Movements, Sliding 

Object-holder, and Revolving Fitting, complete 20 00 

691. Condensing Lens on Stand 6 00 

692. Draw-tube for "The National Microscope" 3 50 

Nos. 640 to 650 inclusive are applicable to these instruments. 



ACHROMATIC OBJECTIVES (FRENCH MANUFACTURE), 



These Object-glasses are all triple combinations, excepting the first, which is a 
doublet ; and are really well corrected lenses, giving a clear, well-lighted field with 
excellent definition. They all have the French Screw the same as that of No. 175, 
but can be fitted with the Society Screw for an additional cost of 75 cents each. 

764. Achromatic Objective No. o, i-inch, doublet 2 50 

triplet 3 00 

50 
00 

00 

00 



765. 
766. 
767. 
768. 
769. 
770. 



Li 

2,i 

3,} 
4,4 

5'tV 




No. 888. (See Page 37.) 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 




No. 830. 



No. 832. 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 




No. 835. 



No. 830. 




No. 871. 




No. 877. 




■■■'■' ■ ~ ™«mmi>i>im,.wm, ■>;■ 



No. 878. 




No. 891. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. T>7 

APPARATUS AND ACCESSORIES. 

No. Price. 

806. Amici's Prism on Separate Stand $17 00 

811. Equilateral Prism on Separate Stand for oblique illumination 8 50 

812. Adapter on Stand for use of Object-glass as Condenser . . 5 00 

830. Large Bull's-eye Condensing Lens on Stand 8 50 

830*. Large Bull's-eye Condensing Lens with Lamp attached 12 50 

832. Smaller Condensing Lens on Stand 6 00 

834. Side Silver Reflector on Stand 8 50 

835. Rainey's Light Moderator on Stand 8 50 

842. Three-pronged Forceps, in German Silver, with Screw Adjustment. . 7 00 

843. Three-pronged Forceps 6 00 

844. Stage Forceps 3 50 

844*. Paper-pointed Forceps 50 

846. Eye-piece Micrometer, with Jackson's Adjusting Screw 8 50 

847. Stage Micrometer, mounted in brass 4 50 

848. Stage Micrometer, mounted in card 225 

849. Stage Micrometer, mounted in brass, parts of English Inch and Milli- 

metre 6 00 

849*.Stage Micrometer, mounted in card, parts of English Inch and Milli- 
metre 3 50 

871. Glass Slip with Ledge 40 

872. Growing-cell, for preserving objects alive in water for many days. ... 4 50 

873. Set of Six Live-traps and Trough, in Case, complete 12 50 

874. Live-trap 3 00 

875. Frog-plate, with Bag, etc., complete 4 50 

876. Glass Slip, with Hollow and Ledge 50 

877. Glass Slip, with Hollow and Ledge and Lip 1 50 

878. Glass Slip, with Hollow 15 

880. Glass Tubes, Set of Three 50 

882. Opal Glass, for Moderating the Light, 3x1 inch 40 

883. Blue Glass, for Moderating the Light, 3x1 inch 40 

886. Astral Oil Lamp, Flat Wick and Shade, with arrangement for vary- 
ing height of flame above the table 6 50 

886*. Case for Lamp, No. 186, and 1 chimney 4 00 

888. Gas Lamp, Argand Burner, Shade and six feet of flexible tubing, with 

arrangements for varying height of flame above the table 13 50 

(See Page 34.) 

889. Fiddian's Microscope Illuminator, in Case 15 00 

890. Lamp Chimneys, for Nos. 886* or 888* ". 20 

891. Weber's Slip, with Convex Cell 75 



38 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

FIDDIAN'S MICROSCOPE ILLUMINATOR. 




LAMP WHEN 
PACKED IN CASE. 




LONDON 




EXTERIOR OF 
CASE. 



LAMP. 

No. 898. Fiddian's Microscope Illuminator, nickel plated $15 00 

This very convenient and useful Lamp has been designed to combine the quali- 
ties of other Microscope Lamps, together with greater portability, the whole fitting 
into a brass tubular box, the exterior of which is covered with morocco leather, the 
lid forming the stand of the Lamp. The metallic chimney being telescopic, occu- 
pies a very small compass ; the condenser fits into the cell in front. The reservoir 
is of brass, and will contain sufficient petroleum for six hours' consumption. The 
entire Lamp fitting into the case from the top, escape of the oil is prevented. 

In trimming the Lamp care should be taken that the wick is perfectly dry, and 

the petroleum of good quality ; also that none of the oil gets upon the metallic 

chimney or reservoir, or a bad smell will be given off until the oil is burnt away. 

In using the Lamp it will be found convenient to slightly incline it, so as to 

bring the broad surface of the flame more parallel with 

the surface of the mirror of the Microscope. 

When it is necessary to re -line the chimney, screw off 
the sliding portion, wash out the old lining, and recoat it 
with superfine Plaster of Paris. When dry it will be 
found ready for use — a few minutes will be found suffi- 
cient to do this. 

Size of Case: — Height, 6 inches ; Diameter, 3 inches. 
899. Beck's Microscope Lamp. This very port- 
able, simple, and cheap lamp, is arranged 
to carry the flame at any desired height 
above the table, thus adapting it to the 
use of all sizes of Microscopes. The 
shade is of paper, enamelled green on the 
exterior, affording full protection to the 
eyes, and emitting no heat. The base is 
heavy, and the lamp perfectly steady at 
any height $5 OO 

German Student Lamp. Brass 

" " " Nickel-plated 




5 00 

6 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 39 

No. Price. 
902. Dissecting Lamp. Large base, with Condenser and Chimney. 
Also, an upper shade and reflector combined to shade the eyes and 

intensify the light on the work. With box #10 OO 

Without box 8 00 

902.* Smaller Dissecting Lamp, with box ..... 7 00 

Without box 5 00 

902.** Smaller Dissecting Lamp 4 00 

902.*** Condensers, Separate, from $1.00 to 5 00 

902.**** Lamps, with Shades, from $2.00 to 6 00 

902***. These condensers are furnished separate or with fixtures to attach to lamp 902****, or 
on stands. 

yo2****. The Shades for these lamps are of various shapes. When ordering, state what instru- 
ment is used ; or, if none, what position is occupied while dissecting. 



No. 923. 




No. 911. 



No. 913. No. 912. 



No. 909. 




No. 915, 



4o 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 




903. Forceps, brass, 3 inches long 



904. 

9°5- 

906. 

906*. 

907. 

908. 

509. 

910. 

911. 

912. 

9*3- 



Quekett's, for taking objects out of deep bottles 

Bull-nose 

Cutting 2 50 

opening by pressure 2 00 

Steel Nickel-plated, straight, 4 inches long 1 00 



" curved, 4 " 1 00 

" 4 " very delicate. . . I 50 

" " straight, 4 " " "... 1 50 

Scissors for dissecting, straight blades, very delicate ! 50 

" blades curved on the flat 1 50 

elbow blades 1 50 

Nos. 911, 912 and 913 are of most excellent quality and finish ; 912 is without 
doubt the most convenient and safest instrument available for clearing a sample of 
woolen goods of the nap on back or face. There is no danger of smut as with 
singeing, or of scraping and cutting as in shaving, even with the best knife. 

Nos. 911*, 912* and 913* are similar, also very fine, each 1 00 

911**. Fine Scissors, straight blades, blunt or sharp points 75 

911***. Small Scissors, straight blades, blunt or sharp points 50 

914. Scissors for dissecting, very strong 1 25 

915. Scissors for dissecting, with spring, exceedingly delicate 6 00 

916. Needle-holder for Dissecting Needles, Fig. 1 75 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 4 1 

No. Price. 

916*. Needle-holder for Dissecting Needles, 65 

916**. " " " 50 

916***. " " " 25 

917. " " straight point, ebony handle 15 

917*. " " " metalic handle 25 

917**. '' " " " 10 

918. Needle-hook for dissecting 15 

918*. " for dissecting double points. Fig. 2 75 

918**. " for dissecting triple points. Fig. 3 1 OO 

919. Knives for dissecting, Figs. 5 to 18 (very convenient in the designing 

room), each 75 

920. Case of Dissecting Instruments, containing 1 pair forceps, 1 pair 

scissors, 2 dissecting knives No. 919, 2 needle-holders, with needles. 7 50 

921. Case of Dissecting Instruments, containing 2 pair forceps, 2 pair 

scissors, 3 dissecting knives, 2 needle-holders, with needles, 1 Val- 
entine's knife. (We can furnish cases with any number of pieces to 

order) 15 00 

922. Dr. Ranvier's "Necessaire". 3 00 

This indispensable little piece of apparatus, which is in use in all the Hospitals 

in Paris, and by most Microscopists there, consists of a circular base of polished 
wood, in which are arranged six reagent bottles, with ground capillary-tube stop- 
pers, the whole covered with a low bell-glass, to exclude dust. 

923. Knife, Valentine's, for cutting sections of soft tissues 6 50 

924. Knife, for use with section cutters, in Morocco Case 3 50 

925. Knife, for use with section cutters, heavy blade, in Morocco Case. . . 5 00 
These knives are guaranteed to be of the very first quality. Each is ground flat 

on one side and hollow on the other, and can be furnished to cut toward or from 

the operator, as desired. They are especially convenient for shaving the nap of 
samples before dissecting. 

928. Glass Cells, of various sizes, shapes and depths, per dozen 1 00 

929. Block-Tin Cells, of various sizes and depths, for fluid and balsam 

mountings, per dozen 50 

930. Hard-Rubber Cells, of various sizes and depths, for dry and opaque 

mountings, per dozen . 15 

931. Thin Glass, in sheets, No. 3, jV to to'o'. P er oz 75 

93 2 - " " ". 2 > Tib" to Ts " ■ • • • 1 00 

933- " " " I, T50 to - aio. or thinner, per oz 1 50 

935. " in squares, " 3, per dozen, 18 cents " 1 25 

936. " " "2, " 20 " " 2 25 

937- " " " 1' " 25 " " 2 75 

938. " in circles, "3, " 20 " " 2 25 

939- " " " 2 . " 25 " " 2 75 

940. " " "1, " 30 " " 3 75 

941. Watch Glasses, all sizes, each 7 cents, per dozen ... 75 

942. Dipping and Dropping Tubes, each 10 

943. Pippits, with bulb 25 

944. Test Tubes, all sizes, each, 3 to 8 cents, per dozen 30 to 75 

945. Bell Glass, for preserving objects from dust during preparation 50 



42 



A. & A. F. SPITZLPS 



No. 

947. Canada Balsam, pure, in collapsible tubes 

948. " " in chloroform, requires no heat, per bottle. . , 

949. " " in Benzole, " " " .. 

950. Damar, " 

951. Glycerine, pure, 

952. Glycerine, Camphorated, for mounting fresh-water alga;, per bottle. 

953- " J ell y 

954. Deane's M edium ' 

955. Farrant's Medium 

956. Absolute Alcohol, (Dr. Squibb's) 

957. Benzole, pure 

958. Brunswick Black 

959. Asphalte 

960. Gold-Size 



Price. 

25 
50 
50 
50 
25 
25 
50 
35 
60 

25 
25 
25 
25 
25 





No. 969. No. 947. No. 961. 

961. Marine Glue, per bottle 35 

962. Oil of Cloves " 50 

963. Bell's Cement, " 50 

963.* Brown's Transparent Rubber Cement, per bottle 35 

964. White Zinc Cement, " ' 50 

965. Punches, various sizes, i inch to 1 inch each, 50 to 1 50 

965.* Improved Punch for cutting cells from Sheet Wax 1 50 

966. Instrument for cutting circles of thin glass, in case IO OO 

967. Glaziers' Diamonds, from 4 00 to 10 00 

968. Writing Diamonds, each 3 50 



No. 967. 



No. 968. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 43 

No. Price. 

969. Capped Bottles for containing fluid used in mounting objects, each. . . 50 

970. Dropping Bottles with glass bulb stopper, each 25 

971. Dropping Bottles with rubber top stopper, each 30 

972. Small'Collecting Bottles, per dozen 30 to 1 00 

972*. Capillary Bottles each 40 

973. Wright's Diatom Collecting Bottle, complete in case 4 00 

974. Mounting Cabinet, as arranged by Mr. Walmsley ; containing 6 

compressors, wood, 6 ditto nickel-plated, Steel Forceps, Scissors, 
Knife, Needles, Turn-table Brass Table and Lamp, gross slips, \ 
oz. assorted Squares and Circles, 1 doz. Hard-Rubber Cells, 1 doz. 
Block-tin Cells, 3 Watch-glasses, Dropping Tube, Tube of Balsam, 
Damar or Balsam, Glycerine, Glycerine Jelly, Hsematoxylon, 
Brunswick Black, Gold-size, Oil of Cloves, White Zinc Cement, 
Dropping Bottle, 1 Nest of Saucers, wide-mouth Glass Jar for So- 
lutions, 2 Camel's-hair Brushes in long handles. The whole packed 
in a polished mahogany cabinet with lock ■ 25 OO 

975. Porcelain Saucers, in nests of 5 with cover, all fitting dust tight. The 

most useful of all articles in staining tissues and soaking in oil of 
cloves k (two sizes) 60 and 80 

976. Hot-water Drying Case, for drying tissues and hardening Balsam 

mountings, made entirely of heavy Planished Copper ; will harden 
twelve dozen specimens at once . 15 00 



STAINING AND INJECTING FLUIDS, ETC. 

977. Hsematoxylon, per bottle 25 

978. Ammonia Carmine, per bottle 25 

979. Borax Carmine, per bottle 25 

980. Carmine Red, per bottle 35 

981. Dr. Woodward's Violet Carmine, per bottle 25 

982. Methyl Aniline, Green, per bottle 25 

983. Magenta Aniline, Red, per bottle 25 

984. Blue Aniline, per bottle. 25 

985. Eosin, per bottle 25 

986. Osmic Acid, -$2 oz. in glass capsule 3 00 

987. Picro Carmine, per bottle 25 

988. Sulphindigotate of Soda (Dr. Seder's), per bottle 25 

989. Carmine Injecting, Gelatine (Dr. Seller's), per oz 1 00 

One ounce of this^Gelatine dissolved in ten ounces of distilled water 
foims an admirable Injecting Fluid. 

990. Adhesive Labels, Plain White, Round or Oval, per box 10 

991. " " Assorted Colors, Square, neatly bordered, per 100. . 25 

992. " Fronts for covering slides, handsome gold design, per IOO. . 50 

993. " " for covering slides, handsome bronze design, per 100, 30 

994. Backs for covering slides, per 100 10 

Backs or fronts if with holes punched, extra, per 100 15 



44 A - & A - F. SPITZLI'S 

DISSECTING BRUSHES, ETC. 

No. Price. 

995. Dissecting Brushes for clearing the threads of a sample after ravelling 

out a few threads 75 

996. Dissecting Brush 50 

997- " " 25 

998. Perforated Card Board Sample Stretcher for dissecting stage 5 

998*. " White Wood " " " 10 

998**. " Nickle-plated " " " 25 

999. A set of 20 different textile fibers, properly and separately mounted on 

microscopic slides. Necessary if a thorough study of fibers is un- 
dertaken. Price per slide 60 cents. Per set 10 00 

Send 30 cents for R. & J. Beck's Catalogue of Microscopic Objects, &c, &c. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 45 

CABINET FOR MICROSCOPIC OBJECTS, 




No, 1466. 

Best Spanish Mahogany Cabinet, with glass panel and deep drawers 

at bottom, to hold 1,000 objects $70 OO 

We can furnish any of R. & J. Beck's London and Phildelphia goods in this 
line at their lowest retail prices. 



4 6 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



CASES OF MOUNTING MATERIALS. 

1360. Collection of Mounting Materials and Dissecting Instru- 
ments, consisting of Wood-cutting Instrument and Chisel, instru- 
ment for cutting circles of thin glass, Glazier's Diamond, Writing 
Diamond, Cell-making Instrument, Brass Table and Lamp, Page's 
Forceps, Case of Dissecting Instruments containing 4 Knives, 2 
Hooks, 2 Points, 3 pairs of Scissors, 3 Pairs of Forceps and Needle- 
holder, Valentine's Knife, 1 oz. Thin Glass, 9 dozen Slips 3 inch by 
1 inch, 3 dozen Wooden Slips, 3 dozen Glass Cells, 200 Labels. 5 
Capped Bottles containing Canada Balsam, Asphalt, Gold-size, 
Glycerine and Marine Glue, Bottle of Dean's Medium, 3 Stoppered 
Bottles for containing Chloroform, Nitric Acid and Liq. Potasse,. .$100 00 
The whole packed in a Strong Mahogany Case. 




No. 1372. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 47 

CASES OF MOUNTING MATERIALS. 

No. Price. 

1361. Collection of Mounting Materials, consisting of Writing Dia- 
mond, Cell-making Instrument, Brass Table and Lamp, Page's 
Forceps, Case for Dissecting Instruments, 1 oz. Thin Glass, 6 
dozen Slips 3 inch by 1 inch, 3 dozen Wooden Slips, 2 dozen Glass 
Cells, 150 Labels, 5 Capped Bottles containing Canada Balsam, 
Asphalt, Gold-size, Glycerine and Marine Glue, 1 bottle of Deane's 
M edium $40 00 



The whole packed in a strong Mahogany Case. 



1365. Reagent and Mounting Rack, containing 12 bottles filled with vari- 
ous reagents, cements, etc., each provided with a dropping tube 
fitted to the cork, and 10 test tubes with fittings 3 00 

T368. Improved Wood Cutting Machine, with Chisel, packed in Maiiogany 

Case 9 50 

1369. Page's Wooden Forceps for holding Glass Slips when heated 50 

1370. Smith's Mounting Instrument for pressing down the Cover on the 

Glass Slips, with a graduated pressure 3 OO 

1372. Small Air-pump and Receiver 12 50 



CABINETS FOR MICROSCOPIC OBJECTS. 

1465. Mahogany Cabinet to hold 600 objects, with double glass doors 

and improved slide-rests, showing each object clearly when the 
drawers are pulled out, and allowing their easy removal 45 00 

1466. Best Spanish Mahogany Cabinet, with glass panel and deep 

drawers at bottom, to hold 1,000 objects 70 00 

1467. Honduras Mahogany Cabinet, without glass panel or deep draw- 

ers, to hold 1,000 objects 55 00 

1468. Best Spanish Mahogany Cabinet, with glass panel, to hold 750 

objects 50 00 

1469. Honduras Mahogany Cabinet, without glass panel, to hold 750 

objects 4400 

1470. Best Spanish Mahogany Cabinet, with glass panel, to hold 500 

objects 40 00 

1471. Honduras Mahogany Cabinet, without glass panel, to hold 500 

objects 35 00 

In the above Cabinets there are porcelain tablets let into the fronts of the draw- 
ers. The drawers are numbered and the specimens lie flat. 



48 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

POSTAL BOXES FOR MICROSCOPIC OBJECTS. 

No. Price. 

1482. Card-board Boxes fitted with Racks to hold 12 objects $ 15 

1484. Postal Boxes, to take 1 object 6 

1485- " " " 3 " 8 

i486. Postal Boxes, to take 6 objects. 10 

14S7. " " " 12 " 12 

1488. " " " 25 " : 15 



CASES FOR MICROSCOPIC OBJECTS. 

1489. Portable Horizontal Slide Case, with 12 Trays, holding 12 
dozen objects, lying flat, the same as in case No. 1471, with a sub- 
stantial cover of bookbinder's cloth 4 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



49 




50 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

SUNDRY OPTICAL INSTRUMENTS. 



Since writing our preface we have determined to insert in this Catalogue just 
enough matter of a more general character to convince our patrons that we are 
prepared to serve them in any way possible, and at the best market rates. While 
this is a great accommodation and saving to them, we will make it more so by al- 
lowing our " Outfit prices " and terms to include anything ordered through or 
from us. 

ACHROMATIC MARINE AND FIELD GLASSES. 

These Glasses are designated according to the diameter of the Object-glasses in 
French lines, as follows : 

ii Lines are equal to i inch. 

13 " " ifg- inches. 

15 " " i T % " 

17 " " ii 

19 " " i}£ " 

21 " " i| 

24 " " 2\ 

26 " " 2 T S g " 

They are all constructed with six lenses, unless the contrary is specially stated 
and are invariably well corrected and adapted to all visions. 

Prices range from $8 00 to $30 00 



ALUMINIUM FIELD OR MARINE GLASSES. 

From 35 00 to 60 00 

All kinds Opera Glasses, Lemare's and Bardou's included, prices 

ranging from 6 00 to 25 00 

Aluminium Opera Glasses, from 20 00 to 35 00 



ACHROMATIC SPY-GLASSES OR TELESCOPES. 

From 3 00 to 40 00 



ASTRONOMICAL TELESCOPES. 

By Bardou, Paris, and R. & J. Beck, Philadelphia and 

London, from $60 00 to $2,400 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 5 I 

SPHERICAL SPECTACLE LENSES. 

Spherical, Cylindrical or Prismatic Lenses, of the First Quality only, fitted to 
frames at the following prices : 

No. Price. 

2135. Periscopic or Double Convex White Lenses, from 5 to 72 inches 

focus, per pair $ 75 

2136. Periscopic or Double Convex White Lenses, from 1 to 4f inches 

fucus, per pair 1 25 

2137. Double Convex White, Divided or Franklin Lenses, per pair 1 50 

2138. " " " Lenses, two foci on one glass, " r 50 

2139. Periscopic or Double Convex Tinted Lenses, Blue, Pink, Green or 

Smoke, per pair 1 50 

2140. Periscopic or Double Concave White Lenses, from 5 to 72 inches 

focus, per pair 75 

2141. Periscopic or Double Concave White Lenses, from 1 to 4f inches 

focus, per pair 1 25 

2142. Periscopic or Double Concave Tinted Lenses, Blue, Pink, Green or 

Smoke, per pair 1 50 

2143. Plane, Blue, Green or Smoke-colored Glasses, per pair 1 00 



CYLINDRICAL SPECTACLE LENSES. 

2145. Piano-Convex or Concave Cylindrical White Lenses, per pair $2 00 

2146. " " " single lens. . . I 25 

2147. Sphero-Convex *' " per pair 4 00 

2148. " " " " " single lens. .. . 2 50 

2149. Piano-Convex or Concave Cylindrical and Prismatic White Lenses, 

per pair 4 OO 

2150. Piano-Convex or Concave Cylindrical and Prismatic White Lenses, 

single lens 2 50 

21 5 1. Sphero-Convex or Concave Cylindrical and Prismatic White Lenses, 

per pair 550 

2152. Sphero-Convex or Concave Cylindrical and Prismatic White Lenses, 

single lens 3 00 

2153. Crossed Cylindrical Lenses, Convex or Concave, White, per pair. . . 7 00 

2154. " " single lens, 4 00 



PRISMATIC SPECTACLE LENSES. 

2160. Plane Prismatic Lenses, White, per pair §2 00 

2161. " " " single prism 1 25 

2162. Sphero-Prismatic " " per pair 4 00 

2163. " " " single prism 2 50 



52 A. & A. F. SriTZLI'S 

PEBBLE SPECTACLE LENSES, ETC. 

No. Price. 

2165. Periscopic or Double Convex Pebble Lenses, per pair $3 00 

2166. " Concave " " " ... 3 00 

2167. A set of Colored Lenses to aid the designer in originating new shades 

and tints of colors, and to discover errors of the dyer, per set, 

with handles 5 00 

Per set, without handles 3 00 

Single Lenses, each, with handle 1 25 

" " " without " 75 

2170. Spectacle Case, Morocco, with tuck 20 

21 71. " " " open end 20 

2172. " " Fine English Leather . '. 75 

2173. " " Scotch Plaid Frog Mouth. ... 50 to 1 50 

2174. " " German Silver, Plated 1 25 to 1 75 

2175. Velvet Chatelaine Case.. 1 00 to 3 00 

2176. Morocco " " 75 to 2 00 

2180. Eye-Glass Case, Morocco, open end 15 

2181. " " Finest Russia Leather 35 

2152. " Hooks, Gold 1 50 to 5 00 

2153. " " Gilt 25 

2184. " " Steel 15 

2155. " Chains, Gold, with Hook 4 00 to 6 50 

2156. " Guard, Pure Silk 10 

2157. " " Catgut 10 



NICOL'S PRISMS. 



2200. Nicol's Prism of Iceland Spar, S millimetres across face. . 

2201. " " 9 " " . . 

2202. " " 10 " " . . 

2203. " " 11 " " . . 

2204. " " 12 " " 

2205. " " 14 " " 

2206. " " 16 " " . 

2207. " " 20 " " 



2 25 

2 75 

3 50 

4 00 

4 75 

6 75 

9 75 

20 00 



Larger sizes imported to order. 



CLAUDE LORRAINE, OR LANDSCAPE MIRRORS, 



Claude Lorraine, or Landscape Mirror. A pleasing and beautiful instrument, 
for viewing clouds, landscapes, etc. As the mirror condenses or diminishes the 
view into a true perspective effect, the instrument is invaluable to the artist, and a 
very desirable companion for tourists. Six sizes, as follows: 



2221. 


74 


5i 


2222. 


71 


6i 


2223- 


' 8* 


°i 


2224- 


" H 


7* 


2225- 


' 9* 


7i 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 53 

No. Price. 

2220. Mirror, 6J inches long by 5^ inches wide, in strong Morocco case, each $5 50 

" " 6 00 

7 50 

" " " g 00 

" " " 10 00 

" " " 11 00 



HAND MIRRORS, IN BLACK WOOD FRAMES. 

2230. Mirror Magnifying on one side, diminishing on the other, 6 inches 

diameter 5 00 

2231. Mirror, Cylindrical (elongating and shortening), 6 inches diameter, 3 00 

2232. " Multiplying (producing several images), 6 inches diameter, 5 00 

2233. " Magnifying on one side, plane on the other, 3^ in. diameter, 1 75 

2234. " " " " 5 " 2 50 

2235. " " " " 6 3 00 



HAND MIRRORS, IN FINE MAHOGANY FRAMES. 

2238. Mirror, Magnifying on one side, diminishing on the other, 5 inches 

diameter 3 00 

2239. Mirror, Magnifying on one side, diminishing on the other, 6 inches 

diameter 4 00 



MAGIC LANTERNS. 

In Japanned Tin, with Coal-Oil Lamps. 

2245. Magic Lantern, 6 inches high, with 6 glass and 3 movable slides. . 5 00 

2246. " 7 " " 6 " 3 " . . 6 00 

2247. " 8 " " 6 " 3 7 50 

2248. " 9 " " 6 " 3 " . . 9 00 



KLAEGER INSECT PINS. 

2250. The Genuine Klaeger Insect Pins, five sizes, per 100 15 

" 1000 1 25 

2255. Zoetrope, or Wheel of Life 3 00 

A mechanical and optical exemplification of the persistence of vision, and a val- 
uable aid in illustrating the wonders of optics. The turning of the drum or cylin- 
der brings into view the varying form or position of a figure in rapid succession, 
until they blend into a perfect image full of motion and natural action. 



c^4 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

\. i. Price. 

2256. Extra views for Zoetrope, per set of six $1 00 

2260. Parlor Kaleidoscope, on Stand with Brass Front 2 00 



CAMERA LUCIDA. 

2265. Camera Lucida, mounted on heavy brass base 7 50 

2266. Camera Lucida, with joint for inclination, and clamp for attaching 

to table 10 00 

2267. Camera Lucida, mounted with double joints for inclination, ex- 

tending rod and two colored glasses for modifying the light, with 
clamps for attaching to table 17 50 

The Camera Lucida is a most useful instrument for the Designer, Artist or 
Draughtsman, enabling him to draw very readily a landscape or any desired object 
correctly. Its use may be readily learned by observing the following directions : 

The instrument being fixed to the table and paper on which the drawing is to be 
made, its stem should be inclined so as to bring the prism nearly over the centre of 
the paper, and the pin on which the prism turns placed truly horizontal. 

The prism is next 'to be turned upon its pin, until the transparent rectangular 
face be placed opposite to the objects to be delineated, when the upper black sur- 
face of the eye-piece will be on the top of the instrument ; and through the aper- 
ture in this the artist is to look perpendicularly downwards at his paper. 

The black eye-piece is movable, and in ordinary circumstances is to be in such a 
position that the edge of the small transparent part at the back of the prism shall 
intercept about half the eye-hole. The artist then, looking through the eye-hole, 
directly downwards at his paper, should see the objects he wishes to draw, ap- 
parently distributed over the paper. For, since the eye is larger than the eye-hole, 
he sees through both halves of the hole at the same time without moving his head. 
He sees the paper through the nearer half, and sees the objects at the same time 
through the farther half, apparently in the same direction, by means of reflection, 
through the prism. 

The position of the eye-hole is the circumstance, above all others, necessary to 
be attended to in adjusting the Camera Lucida for use ; for, on the due position of 
this hole depends the possibility of seeing both the pencil and the objects dis- 
tinctly at the same time. 

If the eye-hole be moved, so that nearly the whole <>f its aperture be over the 
paper, and a very small portion over the prism, then the pencil and paper will be 
very distinctly seen ; but the objects to be delineated very dimly. If, on the other 
hand, the aperture be mostly over the prism, and but a small portion over the 
paper, then the objects will be seen distinctly, but the pencil and paper will be very 
faint. But there will always be an intermediate position (varying according as the 
objects or the paper happen to be most illuminated) in which both will be suffi- 
ciently visible for the purpose of delineation, though not quite so clear as to the 
naked eye. This intermediate position is easily found with a little practice. 

The farther the prism is removed from the paper, that is, the longer the stem is 
drawn out, the larger the objects will be represented in the drawing, and accord- 
ingly the less extensive the view. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 55 

WINDOW MIRRORS. 

No. Price. 

2275. Patent Window Mirrors, complete for putting up $3 00 

The Window Mirror, or "Bo Peep," enables any one at an upper window to 
observe who may be at the front-door, whilst remaining himself concealed, afford- 
ing also a panoramic view of the street in both directions for several blocks. 



BECK'S NEW PATENT CLINICAL THERMOMETERS. 

We have given great attention to the manufacture of these instruments, which 
are useless if not entirely accurate, and are certain that in all respects those we 
now offer to the profession are superior to any heretofore sold in the United States. 
One of the greatest imperfections in all others has been the obliteration of the 
scales by the action of perspiration, etc. This we have entirely obviated by using 
a black enamel in the scales and figures, which we guarantee indestructible, except 
by violence ; and by a constriction (patented) in the tube, the loss of the index is 
rendered impossible. Each thermometer is guaranteed to be correct ; but, if de- 
sired, we can furnish them with the Kew verification for an addditional charge of 
50 cents each. — (J?. <S° J. Beck's Catalogue)) The prices are as follows : 

3-J inch in Ebony or Boxwood case $2 75 

4 " " " " ■ •• 3 00 

5 " " " • 3 50 

6 " " " " 400 

5^-inch Patent Surface Thermometer, exceedingly sensitive, in fine snap 

Morocco case 5 00 

Steward's Patent Insulated, Surface Clinical Thermometer, in Morocco 

case 20 00 

Dr. Mattison's Patent Insulated, Surface Clinical Thermometer, in snap 

Morocco case 6 00 

Vaginal Clinical Thermometer, 8 inches in length, with tube protected by 

a Nickel Silver Sheath, in fine Morocco^case 7 50 



56 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENTS. 

This Catalogue comprises a very complete assortment of Mathematical Instru- 
ments, containing : 

Swiss Instruments, in 2 Qualities, 
Swiss " with Pivot Joint, 

English " 
German " 
French " 
of the very best quality and provided with the latest and best improvements. 

The needle-points of the best qualities have in place of the common needle a 
shouldered needle, which forms a much better and more reliable support. 

The Swiss Instruments specified — from No. 3125-3190-3216 — are superior to all 
others. Having a more graceful form and being hand-finished, they do not offend 
the eye with glossy or burnished surfaces which are easily produced by machinery, 
but are a sign of inferiority. 

The German Instruments are well made and of good quality ; they are mostly 
used in schools and by apprentices, and will even give good satisfaction to pro- 
fessional draughtsmen and designers. 

The French Instruments, of which we specify a complete assortment in cases as 
well as of separate pieces, recommend themselves on account of their great cheap- 
ness and comparatively satisfactory workmanship. For scholars and apprentices 
they will be found good enough, but they will not be sufficient for the use of ex- 
perts and professionals. 

Repairing of Instruments done at moderate charges. 



SUPERIOR SWISS INSTRUMENTS. 

OF BEST GERMAN SILVER AND ENGLISH STEEL. 

No. Price. 

3125. Plain Dividers, 3^ inch, each $ 1 75 

3126. " " with handle, 3^ inch, each 2 25 

3127. Compasses, 3^ inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points 6 00 

3128. " 3^ " " fixed Needle Point, Pen and Pencil Points, 5 25 

3129. " 3^ " " fixed Needle and Pen Points (BowPen). . . 3 50 

3130. " 3^ " " fixed Needle and Pencil Points (BowPencil) 3 50 

3131. Plain Dividers, 5 inch, each 2 20 

3132. " 6 " 275 

3133-1. Hairspring Dividers, 3 inch, with handle, each 2 60 

3133. " 5 inch, each 3 00 

3133-2. " 6 inch, each 3 15 

3134. Compasses, 5-J inch, with fixed Needle Point, Pen, Pencil Points and 

Lengthening Bar, each 7 00 

3134^. Compasses, \\ inch, with fixed Needle Point, Steel Pen, Pencil 

Points and Lengthening Bar, each 725 

3135. Compasses, 6 inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and Lengthen- 

ing Bar, each .... 8 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 57 

No. Price. 

3136. Compasses, 6£ inch, with joint in each leg, Pen, Pencil, Needle 

Points and Lengthening Bar $925 

3137. Compasses, 7 inch, with joint in each leg, Pen, Pencil, Needle 

Points, Lengthening Bar and Dotting Pen IO 75 

3137-1. Compasses, 7^ inch, with joint in each leg, Pen, Pencil, Needle 

Points, Lengthening Bar and Dotting Pen with 6 wheels 12 00 

3138. Pocket Dividers, with sheath, 5 inch, each 3 00 

3139. Pillar Compasses, with handles, Pen and Pencil Points to draw out, 

forming small Bows if required, each 9 50 

3139-1. Pillar Compasses, with 2 Lengthening Bars to strike larger circles, 

each 11 50 

3140. Pocket Compasses, with folding Points, each 8 75 

3 141. Triangular Compasses, for taking off three points, each 5 00 

3141-1. Triangular Compasses, with movable Bar, each 5 75 

3142. Whole and Half Dividers, ~j\ inch, each 4 00 

3150. Minute Steelspring Dividers and Bows, 3 in set, i\ inch, set.... 8 25 

3151. Steelspring Bow Dividers, with Ivory Handle 3 " each... 2 20 

3152. " Bow Pen, " 3 " " 2 50 

3153. " Bow Pencil " 3 " " 2 50 

3154. " Bow Pen, Needle Point, Ivory Handle, 3 " " 2 85 

3155. ' Bow Pencil " " 3 " " 2 85 

3156. " Bow Dividers, with Ivory Handle 2>i " " 2 60 

3157. '• Bow Pen, Needle Point, Ivory Handle, 3^ " " 3 00 

3158. " Bow Pencil " " 3^ " " 3 00 

3156. Large Steelspring, Bow Dividers, " 4f " " 2 75 

3157. " Bow Pen, with Needle Point, Ivory Handle, 4f 

inch, each 3 25 

3158. Large Steelspring Bow Pencil, with Needle Point, Ivory Handle, 4f 

inch, each 325 

Morocco Cases for sets of 3151, 3152, 3153 or 3151, 3154, 3155, each 75 

for sets of 3156, 3157, 3158 each ... 1 00 

for sets of 3156L, 3157L, 3158L, each 1 25 

3164. Drawing Pen with Ebony Handle, /\\ inch, each t . . . . 1 00 

3165. " " 5 " I 10 

3166. " with joint, Ivory Handle, 4 inch, each I 40 

3167. " with joint and pin, Ivory Handle, 4f inch, each 1 60 

3168. " " " Si " I 80 

3168-2. " " " and German Silver 

blades, 5^ inch, each I 80 

3I69 Drawing Pen with German Silver blades, 6| inch, each 2 00 

3170. Border Pen for broad lines, 6| inch, each 3 00 

3170-2. " improved, 6£ inch, each 3 50 

Border Pen No. 3170-2 may also be used as Railroad Pen by filling only the 
two outer pair of blades with ink. 

3171. Curve Pen, 4^ inch, each .... 1 50 

3171^. Railroad Pencil, each 3 25 

3172. Railroad Pen with Ivory Handle, 5^ inch, each 3 50 

3173. Railroad Pen, K. & E.'s improved, 5-J inch, each 3 75 



58 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

The improvement of this instrument consists in having both pens bent in the 
same direction, and therefore lines can be drawn against straight edges and rules 
as perfect as with a ruling pen. 

No. Price. 

3174. Dotting Pen with 6 wheels, 6 inch, each $3 75 

3175. Dotting Pen with 6 wheels, improved, 6 inch, each 4 25 

The improved Dotting Pen No. 3175 is highly prized, as it entirely prevents 

blotting. The reservoir after being filled is closed, and through a minute opening 
allows no more ink to the dotting wheel than is actually needed. 

3176. Opisometer for measuring curved lines, each I 80 

3177. Tracer, each . . I 35 

3178. Pricker, each 1 75 

3180. Swiss Instruments in Morocco Cases, containing Nos. 3126, 3128 and 

3 166 10 00 

3180-1. Swiss Instruments in Morocco Cases, containing Nos. 3133, 3132-4, 

3166 and 3168 15 00 

3180-2, 3180-3, 3180-4 are larger sizes. 

3181 to 3187 inclusive are Swiss Instruments in Rosewood Cases, with fine 

Velve' $25 00 to 65 00 

3181 to 3187 in Black Walnut (oiled) cases, each $2 to $4 less than Rosewood. 

Drawing Pens carefully set and sharpened, each 20 to 25"cents. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



59 




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60 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

SWISS INSTRUMENTS 

OF BEST GERMAN SILVER AND ENGLISH STEEL WITH PATENT PIVOT JOINT. 

No. Price. 

3199. Hairspring Dividers, 3^ inch, each 3 00 

3200. Dividers, 3^ inch, each % 2 00 

3201. Compasses, 3^ inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points, each. ... 7 00 

3202. Compasses, 3^ inch, with fixed Needle Point, Pen and Pencil Points, 

each 6 00 

3203. Compasses, 3^ inch, with fixed Needle and Pen Points (Bow Pens), 

each ... 4 75 

3204. Compasses, 3$ inch, with fixed Needle and Pencil Points (Bow Pencil) 4 25 

3205. Dividers, 5 inch 2 75 

3205. 1. " 6 " 3 25 

3206. Hairspring Dividers, 5 inch 3 50 

3206. 1. " " 6 " 4 00 

3207. Compasses, 5 inch, with fixed Needle Point, Pen, Pencil, Points and 

Lengthening Bar, each 7 50 

3208. Compasses, 6 inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and Lengthen- 

ing Bar 850 

3213. Steel-spring Dividers, with German Silver Handle, 3^ inch 2 20 

3214. Steel-spring Bow Pen, with German Silver Handle and Needle 

Point, 3^ inch 2 85 

3215. Steel-spring Bow Pencil and Needle Point, 3^ inch 2 85 

SWISS INSTRUMENTS WITH PIVOT JOINT. 

IN MOROCCO POCKET-CASES. 

3216-1, containing 3200, 3201, 3166 12 00 

3216-2, " 3I99» 3203, 3204, 3166 .... 15 00 

3216-3, " 3200, 3202, 3150, 3166, 3168 22 00 

3216^4, " 3202, 3206, 3207, 3166, 3168 23 00 

To complete a set of the above Instruments we recommend our regular Swiss 
from Nos. 3125-3178. as they match them in style and finish. 

Nos. 3220 to 3239 are English Instruments, German Silver, fine finish, double 
sector-joint. 

Nos. 3250 to 3294 are German Instruments, German Silver, best Steel Points, 
highly finished. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 6 I 

CASES OF GERMAN SILVER INSTRUMENTS. 

MOROCCO CASES, LINED WITH BLACK VELVET. 

No. Prick. 

3300, containing 1 Compass, 2>\ inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points, 

1 Drawing Sen, each $3 5° 




N0.-3301. 

3301, containing I Compass, 5-i- inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Length- 

ening Bar, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each. ... 3 50 
3301^, containing 1 Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen and Pencil Points, 1 Di- 
viders, 5 inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each, 4 00 

3302, containing 1 Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each 5 00 
3302-i, containing 1 Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points, 
1 Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, 
each 5 50 

3303, containing 1 Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points, 

and Lengthening Bar, 1 Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 box- 
wood Scale, 1 Triangle, each 6 00 

3304, containing 1 Compass, 5$ inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, 1 Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 Steel Spring 
Bow Pen with Needle Point, 1 Semi-circle Protractor, 1 boxwood 
Scale, 1 Triangle, each S 00 

3305, containing 1 Compass, si inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, 1 Hairspring Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Compass, 3-i 
inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points, I Drawing Pen with Pin, 
6 inch, 1 Semicircular Protractor, 1 Boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each 11 00 



62 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



POLISHED BLACK WALNUT CASES WITH LOCK AND TRAY. 




, No. 3308. 



No. Price. 

3308, containing 1 Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, 1 Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Drawing Pen with Pin, 1 
Steel Spring Bow Pen with Needle Point, I Semicircular Protractor, 
1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each $10 00 

3309, containing I Compass, 5^ inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, 1 Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Compass, 3^ inch, with Pen, 
Pencil and Needle Points, 1 Drawing Pen, 6 inch, with Pin, 1 Semi- 
circular Protractor, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each II 50 

3310, containing I Compass, 5! inch, with Pen, Pencil, Needle Points and 

Lengthening Bar, I Dividers, 5 inch, 1 Compass, 3! inch, with Pen, 
Pencil, Needle Points, 1 Steel Spring Bow Pen with Needle Point, 
1 Drawing Pen, 4 inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 6 inch, with Pin, Semi- 
circular Protractor, 1 boxwood Scale, 1 Triangle, each 15 00 

331 1, containing the same as No. 3310, 1 Hairspring Dividers, 5 inch, in- 

stead of Plain Dividers, 5 inch, and 1 Steel Spring Dividers, I Steel 
Spring Bow Pencil 19 °° 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 

CASES OF GERMAN SILVER INSTRUMENTS. 



t>3 



VERY BEST QUALITY — FINE MOROCCO POCKET CASE, LINED WITH PURPLE VELVET. 





No. 3315. 
No. Price. 

3314, containing 1 Compass, 3^ inch, with Pen, Pencil and Needle Points, 

1 Drawing Pen, 4 inch, each $5 00 

3315, containing I Compass, 4^ inch, with fixed Needle Point, Pen and 

Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 Divider, 4! inch, 1 Steel 
Spring Bow Pen, with Needle Point, 1 Drawing Pen, with Pin, each, 8 50 

3316, Larger size, containing Nos. 3255, 3259, 3275, each 8 25 

3317, containing Nos. 3255, 3259, 3251, 3275, each II 50 

33i2, " " 3255, 3259, 3251, 3272, 3275, 3283, each 1400 

3319. " " 3257, 3259, 3251, 3272, 3275, 3282, 3283, 3284, each, 18 00 
3316-3319, containing Scale and Rubber Triangle, extra 75 

3322, containing Nos. 3255, 3259, 3275, 3283, 1 German Silver Protractor, 

1 Ivory Scale, 1 Rubber Triangle, each 12 00 

3323, containing Nos. 3255, 3259, 3251, 3275, 1 German Silver Protractor, 

1 Ivory Scale, 1 Rubber Triangle, each 14 00 



6 4 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 




No. 3311-3325- 
No. Price. 

3324, containing Nos. 3255, 3259, 3251, 3283, 3272, 3275, 1 German Silver 

Protractor, 1 Ivory Scale, 1 Rubber Triangle, each 17 50 

3325, containing Nos. 3257, 3259, 3251, 3272. 3275, 32S2, 3283, 32S4, 1 

German Silver Protractor, 1 Ivory Scale, 1 Rubber Triangle, each, 21 75 

3326, containing 3255, 3257, 3259, 3251, 3272, 3275, 32S1, 3264, 3282, 3283, 

3284, 1 German Silver Protractor, 1 Ivory Scale, 1 Rubber Tri- 
angle, each 32 00 



Larger Cases to contain any of the Instruments specified in this Catalogue made 
up to order. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 65 

FRENCH INSTRUMENTS. 

OF BRASS AND GERMAN SILVER IN CASES. 

No. Price 

3339. Mahogany Case, containing 5 pieces, Brass, 1 pair Compasses, 4^ 

inch, with Pen and Pencil Points, 1 Key, each 60 

3340. Mahogany Case, containing 6 pieces, Brass, 1 pair Compasses, 4^ 

inch, with Pen and Pencil Points, 1 Crayon-holder, 1 Key, 1 Rule, 

each 65 

3341. Mahogany Case, containing 8 pieces, Brass, 1 pair Compasses, 4^ 

inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 Crayon- 
holder, 1 Protractor, 1 Key, 1 Rule, each 80 

3342. Mahogany Case, containing 9 pieces, Brass, 1 pair Compasses, 4^ 

inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 Drawing 

Pen, 1 Crayon-holder, 1 Protractor, 1 Key, 1 Rule, each 95 

3344. Rosewood Case, containing 10 pieces, German Silver, 1 pair Com- 

passes, 4^ inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 
pair Dividers, 3^ inch, 1 Drawing Pen, I Protractor, 1 Crayon- 
holder, 1 Key, 1 Rule, each 2 75 

3345. Mahogany Case, containing 10 pieces, Brass, 1 pair Compasses, 42- 

inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Dividers, 
3$ inch, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 Protractor, I Crayon-holder, 1 Key, 1 
Rule, each .... 1 05 

3346. Mahogany Case, the same as No. 3345, Compasses 5J inch, Dividers 

4i inch, each 1 30 

3346—2. Mahogany Case, the same as No. 3345, Compasses 6£ inch, Di- 
viders 4J inch, each I 60 

3346-3. Rosewood Case, the same as No. 3346, German Silver 3 25 

3347. Mahogany Case, containing 12 pieces, Brass, I pair Compasses, 4^ 

inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Dividers, 
3^ inch, 1 Bow Pen with Pencil Point, 1 Drawing Pen, 1 Protractor, 
1 Key, 1 Rule, each 1 50 

3348. Mahogany Case, containing 12 pieces, Brass, the same as No. 3347, 

but Compasses 5^ and 4J inch long, each I 85 

3349. Rosewood Case, containing 12 pieces, Brass, the same as No. 3348, 

each 2 25 

3350. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 12 pieces, Brass, 

the same as No. 3348, each 2 60 

3351. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 12 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3348, each 4 60 

3352. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 12 pieces, Brass, 

the same as No. 3350, but Compasses 6£ and si inch long, each. . . 3 00 

3355. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 16 pieces, Brass, 

1 pair Compasses, 6£ inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthen- 
ing Bar, 1 pair Compasses, 3$ inch, with Pen and Pencil Point, 1 
pair Dividers, 4^ inch, 1 Bow Pen with Pencil Point, 1 Drawing 
Pen, 2 Protractors, 1 Key, I Rule, each 3 40 

3356. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 16 pieces, Brass, 

the same as No. 3355. The Compasses with Needle Points, each, 4 20 
5 



66 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

No. Price. 

3357. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 16 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3355, each $7 00 

3358. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 16 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3357. The Compasses with Needle Points, 

each 7 50 

3355 p - Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 17 pieces, Brass, 
1 pair Compasses, 6J inch, with Pen, Pencil Points and Lengthen- 
ing Bar, 1 pair Compasses, 3^ inch, with Pen and Pencil Points, 1 
pr.ir dividers, 4^ inch, 1 Bow Pen with Pencil Point, 1 Proportional 
Divider, 1 Drawing Pen, 2 Protractors, 1 Key, 1 Rule, each 625 

3357P. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 17 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 335 5P, each 9 00 

3362. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 14 pieces, Brass, 

1 pair Compasses, with Needle Point, 6} inch, with Pen, Pencil 
Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Compasses with Needle Point, 
4j inch, Pen and Pencil Points, 1 pair Dividers, 4^ inch, 1 Spring 
Bow Pen, 1 Drawing Pen, 2 Protractors, 1 Rule, 1 Key, each. ... 4 60 

3363. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 14 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3362, each 725 

3364. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 14 Pieces, Brass, 

the same as No. 3362, but with Patent Pencil Points, each 5 30 

3365. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 15 Pieces, Brass, 

the same as No. 3366, but with Patent Pencil Points, each 7 50 

3366. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 15 pieces, Brass, 

1 pair Compasses with Needle Point, 6J inch, with Pen, Pencil 
Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Compasses with Needle Point, 
4i inch, with Pen and Pencil Points, 1 pair Dividers, 4J inch, 1 
Spring Bow Pen, 1 Proportional Dividers, 1 Drawing Pen, I Pro- 
tractor, 1 Key, each 7 00 

3367. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 15 pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3366, each 9 75 

3368. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 15 Pieces, German 

Silver, the same as No. 3367, but with Patent Pencil Points, each, 10 60 

3369. Rosewood Case, with Lock and Tray, containing 19 pieces, the same 

as No. 3368, and with Beam Compasses No. 3390. each 16 00 

3370. Rosewood Case, inlaid, with Lock and Tray, containing 18 Pieces, 

German Silver, 1 pair Compasses with Needle Point, 6^ inch, 
with Pen, Patent Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Com- 
passes, 4J inch, with handle, with Needle Point. Pen and Patent 
Pencil Points, 1 pair Dividers, 4J inch, 1 Spring Bow Pen, 1 Pro- 
portional Dividers, 3 Drawing Pens, 2 Protractors, 1 8-inch Ivory 
Rule, 1 Key, each 20 00 

3371. Rosewood Case, inlaid, with Lock and Tray, containing 22 pieces, 

German Silver, 1 pair Compasses with Needle Point, b\ inch, with 
Pen, Patent Pencil Points and Lengthening Bar, 1 pair Com- 
passes, 4J inch, with handle, with Needle Point, Pen and Patent 
Pencil Points, 1 pair Dividers, a,\ inch, 1 Proportional Dividers, 
1 Steel Spring Dividers, 1 Steel Spring Bow Pen, 1 Steel Spring 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 67 

No. Price. 

Bow Pencil, 3 Drawing Pens, 1 8-inch Ivory Rule, 2 Protractors, 
1 Key, 2 Triangles, 1 Curve, each $24 50 

3372. Rosewood Case, inlaid, with Lock and Tray, containing 26 Pieces, 
German Silver, the same as No. 3371, but with Beam Compasses, 
each 32 00 

Planimeters, Pantographs, Chartometers, Section Liners, Excentrolineads, 
Paper, Boxwood and Ivory Scales, and Protractors, in great variety of styles and 
prices. 

3406. Templet Odontograph, for describing Teeth of Gear Wheels, a valu- 
able Instrument for Millwrights, Machinists, Pattern Makers, etc., 

with full description, in case $3 00 

(Awarded a Medal at the Centennial Exhibition.) 
Illustrated Practical Treatise on the above Odontograph by Prof. S. W. 

Robinson 50 

3409-1. Brass Trammel Heads, with Pencil Holder, 4 inch, each 1 25 

3409-2. " " with Pencil Holder, 5 inch, each 1 75 

3409-3. " " " " " si " " 220 

3416. Handy Paper Cutter, Brass, each 50 

3416-1. " " " Nickel-plated, each 65 , 

This little Instrument is of important service to Draughtsmen for cutting draw- 
ings from the board ; also, for cutting any kind of paper or bristol board. It is 
slid along the ruler or T square without injuring the edge, as. is done by using a 
common knife. The cutter is adjusted by the side screw to cut only the thickness 
of the paper without striking the drawing board. 

Measuring Tapes, Linen and Metalic, from 3 feet to 100 feet. 

Parallel Rules, Straight Edges. 

Perspective Lineads, T Squares. 

Triangles, Curves, etc., from the largest and best manufactories. 



HARD RUBBER DRAWING TOOLS, 

MANUFACTURED BY KEUFFEL & ESSER. 

Awarded with a Prize Medal and Diploma at the Thirty-ninth Exhibition of the 
American Institute. 

All Tools of Hard Rubber are highly recommended. Their superiority over 
others is proved and recognized by the best authorities. They are annealed and 
consequently not affected by changes of temperature. 

The Triangles and Curves are of the utmost durability in comparison with those 
made of wood, which either break or get loose at the joints. 

The density of the Rubber permits a very high finish on the edges equal to 
metal, which is a great advantage to the Angles, Curves, Rules and T Squares. 

The Hard Rubber Scales, to which we call the attention, will give the greatest 
satisfaction. They are especially adapted for use in more or less dark offices and 
by gaslight, and will in every case and under all conditions be found to be a great 
success, as they do not fatigue the eye. 



68 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

DRAWING TABLES. 

No. Price. 

3985. Drawing Table, on Iron Stand with adjustable Board, suitable for 

office and private use, plain ash Board 20^x24 inch, each $g 00 

3986. Drawing Table, on Iron Stand with shelf 10 50 

3987. Drawing Table, with Black Walnut Board 22x25$ with shelf, each, 12 00 

3988. Drawing Table, with Black Walnut Board and Drawers, on castors, 

each 14 00 

3989. Drawing Table with Black Walnut Board with Drawers and long set 

screw, each 15 00 

3989-1. Drawing Table, with Black Walnut Board with Drawers and long 

set screw, finely ornamented, gilt, each 18 00 



DRAWING BOARDS. 

Our Drawing Boards are made with great care of narrow strips of best selected 
thoroughly seasoned pine. 

3390. Drawing Board, pine wood, hard wood ledges, screwed to the back, 
the screws run in slots to allow free contraction or expansion, as 

described at No. 4009, 16x21, each 1 50 

3991. 20x26, each 2 20 

3992.23x31, " 350 

3993.27x34, " 425 

3994.31x42, " 550 

3995.33x55, " 900 

4000. Drawing Board, pine wood, clamped, 12x17 inch, each 75 

4001. " " " 15x21 " 1 20 

4002. " " " 20x26 " 1 50 

4003. " hard wood ledges, dovetailed in, 23x31 

inch, each 3 00 

4004. Drawing Board, pine wood, hard wood ledges, dovetailed in, 27x34 

inch, each 3 75 

4006. Drawing Board, pine wood, hard wood ledges, dovetailed in, 31x42 

inch, each 4 50 

4006. Drawing Board, pine wood, hard wood ledges, dovetailed in, 33x55 

inch, each 8 00 

4007. Drawing Board, pine wood, hard wood ledges, 16x21 inch, each. ... 3 00 

4008. " " " 20x26 " .... 4 50 

4009. " " " 23x31 " .... 6 00 

4010. " " '• 31x42 " .... 8 50 

401 1. " " " 33x55 " ■ . . 12 00 

This Drawing Board is the best and deserves recommendation, as it is the only 
one which possesses the qualities a good and true board should have. It is made 
of pine wood, glued up to the required width, with the heart side of each piece of 
wood to the surface. A pair of hard wood ledges are screwed to the back, the 
screws pass through the ledges in oblong slots, bushed with brass, which fit closely 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 69 

under the heads and yet allow the screws to move freely when drawn by the con- 
traction of the board. To give the ledges power to resist the tendency of the sur- 
face to warp, a series of grooves are sunk in half the thickness of the board over 
the entire back. These grooves take the transverse strength out of the wood to 
allow it to be controlled by the ledges, leaving at the same time the longitudinal 
strength of the wood nearly unimpaired. 

To make the two working edges perfectly smooth, allowing an easy movement 
with the square, a slip of hard wood is let into the end of the board. The slip is 
afterwards sawn apart at abeut every inch to admit contraction. 
No. Price. 

4012. Drawing Board, pine wood, black walnut frame, size of board without 

frame, 12^x16 inch, each 2 50 

4013. Drawing Board, pine wood, black walnut frame, size of board with- 

out frame 14x19 inch, each 3 00 

4014. Drawing Board, pine wood, black walnut frame, size of board with- 

out frame 16x21 inch, each 3 50 

4015. Drawing Board, pine wood, black walnut frame, size of board with- 

out frame 1 8x26 inch, each 5 00 

4016. Drawing Board, pine wood, black walnut frame, size of board with- 

out frame 21x29 i ncn > each 6 00 

4017. Trestles made of well seasoned pine, 36 inch high, 46 inch long. 

For boards 31x42 or 33x55 inch, each. ... 7 50 

4031. Tack-lifter (patented February 27, 1877,) Brass, Nickel plated, each, 25 

A handy and simple instrument to extract thumb tacks from the drawing 
board. The end of the lifter is placed under the head of the tack and takes it out 
without bending the point or wrenching off the head, as is done by using a knife. 

The handle of this Instrument is a Paper-knife, and is handy for removing 
drawings which have been glued to the drawing-board, etc. 



DRAWING PINS OR TACKS. 

4018. Brass tacks, steel points, £ inch diameter, per dozen 15 

4019. Solid steel tacks, fa " " 25 

4020. Solid steel tacks, fine, T s g- " " 80 

4021. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, fV 

inch diameter, per dozen 60 

4022. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, £ 

inch diameter, per dozen 65 

4023. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, yV 

inch diameter, per dozen 70 

4024. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, i 

inch diameter, per dozen 80 

4025. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, -fl- 

inch diameter, per dozen 90 

4025^. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, round head, $ 

inch diameter, per dozen 1 00 

4026. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, beveled head, f 

inch diameter, per dozen 65 



JO A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

No. Price. 

4027. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, beveled head, -j-y, 

inch diameter, per dozen 70 

4028. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, beveled head, ^ 

inch diameter, per dozen 80 

402SJ. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, beveled head, yy 

inch diameter, per dozen . . 90 

4028^. German Silver, steel points, screwed in and riveted, beveled head, £ 

inch diameter, per dozen • 1 00 

Drawing Pins or Tacks, German Silver, steel points riveted, 2d Quality, round 
head Nos. r 2 3 4 5 5^ 

A I h i T6 i > nch diameter. 
Per dozen, $ .30 35 40 45 50 55 
Beveled head, Nos. 6 7 8 g 10 

I tV i A I mch diameter. 
Per dozen, $ .35 40 45 50 55 

Drawing Pins or Tacks, Brass, steel points riveted, 2d Quality, round head 
Nos. o IB 2B 3B 4B 

i T 5 e f tV i mcn diameter. 

Per dozen, $ .15 20 25 30 35 
Beveled head, Nos. 6b 7B 8b 

■§ -j^g- ^ inch diameter. 

Per dozen, $ .25 30 35 

4029. Horncentre plain, £ inch diameter, each 15 

4030. Horncentre with German Silver edge, f inch diameter, each 50 



GERMAN WATER COLORS, 

FOR ARCHITECTS, MECHANICAL AND CIVIL ENGINEERS AND MACHINISTS. 

The principal advantage of these colors consists in a series of tints, ready mixed 
for all technical purposes, enabling draughtsmen to apply the same tint without 
the difficult and and laborious process of mixing the colors. 

The collections below show boxes arranged with the colors required by Archi- 
tects, Machinists, Civil Engineers and Mechanical Draughtsmen, the value of 
which we feel assured will soon be appreciated. We have no doubt that these 
colors will receive the well deserved credit they have for many years enjoyed 
abroad. 

GERMAN COLORS. 

IN POLISHED SLIDE-LID BOXES. 

4091. For Architects, containing 12 colors, Nos. 105, 109, 116, 117, 121, 

122, 131, 136, 142, 152, 155, 171, each $3 25 

4092. For Architects, containing 18 colors, Nos. 100, 105, 109, 110, 116, 

117, 121 122, 129, 131, 133, 135, 136, 142, 152, 155, 161, 171... 4 50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



71 



No. Price. 

4093. For Architects, containing 24 colors, Nos. 100, 105, 109, no, 116, 

117, 121, 122, 126, 128, 129, 131, 133, 135, 136, 142, 150, 152, 

!54» J^. IOI > 162, 163, 171, each $6 00 

4094. For Architects, containing 30 colors, Nos. 100, 104, 105, 106, 109, 

no, 116, 117, 121, 122, T26, 128, 129, 131, 132, 133, 135, 136, 

J 37, !38, 142, 150, 152, 154, 155, 161, 162, 163, 170, 171 7 25 

4095. For Machinists, containing 15 colors, Nos. 102, 103, 108, III, 112, 

117, 127, 130, 131, 134, 140, 142, 152, 161, 171 4 50 

4096. For Surveyors, containing 15 colors, Nos. 105, 114, 115, 116, 117, 

118, 119, 120, 125, 131, 135, 151, 152, 153, 171 4 50 



GERMAN COLORS IN CAKES. 



4097. 



PER CAKE, 20 CTS. 



IOO. 


Azure Blue, 


Lufblau. 


IOI. 


Black Lead, 


Graphit. 


102. 


Brick, 


Backstein. 


IO3. 


Bronze, 


Bronce. 


IO4. 


Burnt Roman Ochre, 


Gebr. rom. Ocker. 


105. 


Burnt Sienna, 


Gebr. Sienna. 


106. 


Burnt Umber, 


Gebr. Umber. 


IO7. 


Brown Ochre, 


Brauner Ocker. 


I08. 


Cast-iron, 


Gusseisen. 


IO9. 


Chinese White, 


Deckweiss. 


no. 


Chrome Yellow, 


Chromgelb, hell. 


in. 


Composition Metal, 


Compositions metall 


112. 


Copper, 


Kupfer. 


113. 


Deep Chrome, 


Chromgelb, dunkel. 


114. 


Field Brown, 


Feldbraun. 


"5- 


Forest Green, 


Waldgrun. 


116. 


French Green, 


Franzosichgrun. 


117. 


Gamboge, 


Gummigutt. 


118. 


Garden Green, 


Hausgartengrun. 


119. 


Grape Violet, 


Rebenviolett. 


120. 


Heath Green, 


Haidegrun. 


121. 


Indian Red, 


Indischroth. 


122. 


Indigo, 


Indigo. 


123. 


Lamp Black, 


Lampenschwarz. 


124. 


Light Red, 


Lichtroth. 


125. 


Meadow Green, 


Wiesengrun. 


126. 


Naples Yellow, 


Neapelgelb. 


126^. 


Neutral Tint, 


Neutral-Tinte. 


127. 


Oak, 


Eichenholz. 


128. 


Orange, 


Orange. 


129. 


Payne's Grey, 


Payne's Grau. 


130. 


Pine, 


Tannenholz. 


131. 


Prussian Blue, 


Preussischblau. 



72 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



132. 


Prussian Green, 


Preussischgrun, 


133. 


Raw Sienna, 


Sienna. 


134- 


Sand Stone, 


Sandstein. 


135. 


Sap Green, 


Saftgrun. 


136. 


Red Lead, 


Saturnroth. 


137. 


Vandyke Brown, 


Vandyke Braun. 


138. 


Venetian Red, 


Venetianischroth. 


139- 


Violet Lake, 


Violetter Lack. 


140. 


Wood, 


Holz. 


141. 


Yellow Lake, 


Gelber Lack. 


142. 


Yellow Ochre, 


Gelber Ocker. 


4098. 




PER CAKE, 30 CTS. 


150. 


Crimson Lake, 


Carminlack, hell. 


151- 


Farm Buildings, 


Oeconomiegebaude. 


152. 


Sepia, 


Sepia, naturlich. 


153- 


Stone Buildings, 


Steinerne Gebaude 


154. 


Ultramarine, 


Ultramarin. 


155- 


Vermilion, 


Zinnober. 


4098-^ 




PER CAKE, 60 CTS. 


160. 


Brilliant Yellow, 


Brillantgelb. 


161. 


Cobalt, 


Cobaltblau. 


162. 


Indian Yellow, 


Indischgelb. 


163. 


Rose Madder, 


Krapplack, rosa. 


164. 


Scarlet Lake, 


Scharlachlack. 



4099. PER CAKE, 90 CTS. 

170. Brilliant Blue, Brillantblau. 

171. Carmine, extra fine. Carmin, extra fein. 

172. Ultramarine, extra fine. Ultramarin, extra fein. 



WINSOR & NEWTON'S WATER COLORS. 



FULL CAKE OR PAN, 25 CTS. 



HALF CAKE OR PAN, 15 CTS. 



410c 


. 










I. 


Antwerp Blue. 


18. 


Gamboge. 


32. 


Orange Chrome 


2. 


Bistre. 


19. 


Hooker's Green, 


33- 


Payne's Gray. 


3- 


Blue Black. 




No. 1. 


34- 


Prussian Blue. 


*4- 


British Ink. 


20. 


Hooker's Green, 


35- 


Prussian Green. 


5- 


Brown Ochre. 




No. 2. 


36. 


Raw Sienna. 


6. 


Brown Pink. 


21. 


Indigo. 


37- 


Raw Umber. 


* 7 . 


Bronze 


22. 


Indian Red. 


*38. 


Red Lead. 


8. 


Burnt Sienna. 


23- 


Italian Pink. 


*39- 


Red Ochre. 


9- 


Burnt Umber. 


24. 


Ivory Black. 


40. 


Roman Ochre. 


10. 


Chinese White. 


*25. 


King's Yellow. 


41. 


Sap Green. 


11. 


Chrome Yellow. 


26. 


Lamp Black. 


42. 


Terre Verte. 


12. 


Cologne Earth. 


27- 


Light Red. 


43- 


Vandyke Brown 


14- 


Deep Chrome. 


28. 


Naples Yellow. 


44. 


Venetian Red. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



73 



"15. Dragon's Blood. 
16. Emerald Green. 
*I7. Flake White. 



29. Neutral Tint. 

30. New Blue. 

31. Olive Green. 



45. Vermilion. 

47. Yellow Lake. 

48. Yellow Ochre. 



FULL CAKE OR PAN, 45 CTS. 



HALF CAKE OR PAN, 25 CTS. 



4IOI. 

*4g. Black Lead. 

50. Brown Madder. 
*5I. Chalon's Brown. 
*I3. Constant White. 

52. Crimson Lake. 



53. Indian Yellow. 

54. Mars Yellow. 

55. Neutral Orange. 

56. Purple Lake. 

57. Roman Sepia. 



58. Ruben's Madder. 

59. Scarlet Lake. 

60. Scarlet Vermilion. 

61. Sepia. 

62. Warm Sepia. 



FULL CAKE OR PAN, 65 CTS. HALF CAKE OR PAN, 35 CTS. 

4T02. 

63. Cobalt Blue. 64. Orange Vermilion. 65. Violet Carmine. 



FULL CAKE OR PAN, 90 CTS 
4IO3. 

66. Aureolin. 

67. Burnt Carmine. 

68. Cadmium Yellow. 

69. Cadmium Orange. 

70. Carmine. 

71. French Blue. 



HALF CAKE OR PAN, 45 CTS. 



72. Gallstone. 

73. Green Oxide of 
Chromium. 

74. Indian Purple. 

75. Intense Blue. 

76. Lemon Yellow. 



77. Pale Cadmium 

Yellow. 

78. Pink Madder. 

79. Pure Scarlet. 

80. Rose Madder. 

81. Viridian. 



HALF CAKE OR PAN, 70 CTS. 



*86. Madder Carmine. 
87. Mars Orange. 



FULL CAKE OR PAN, $1.40. 
4IOL 

82. Purple Madder. ^85. Field's Orange 

83. Smalt. Vermilion. 

84. Ultramarine Ash. 
4105. 

88. Genuine Ultramarine, £-cake, each $2 25 

Colors marked * are not made in full and half pans. 



WINSOR & NEWTON'S FULL CAKE WATER COLOR BOXES. 



No. 

4106. 12 

4107. 18 

4108. 12 

4109. 18 

4110. 12 

4111. 18 

4112. 12 

4113. 18 

41 14. 24 



Cakes, Polished Mahogany Slide Lid Box, each. 
Lock Box " . 



Price. 

$5 00 

7 50 

6 00 

" " 9 00 

Lock and Drawer Box, each 650 

" 10 00 

Complete Box fitted, " 10 00 

" " 14 00 

" 18 00 



74 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

HALF CAKE WATER COLOR BOXES. 

FITTED 

No. Price. 

41 16. 12 Half Cakes, Polished Mahogany Slide Lid Box, each $3 00 

4117- 18 " " '• " 4 25 

4118. 12 " " Lock Box, " 4 50 

4119. 18 " " " " 6 00 

4120. 12 Lock and Drawer Bax, each. . . 5 50 

4121. 18 " " " " . . 7 00 

4122. 12 " " Complete Box fitted, " ... 6 00 

4123. 18 " " '• "... 8 00 

4124. 12 " Caddy Lid Box complete fitted, 

each 9 00 

4124-1. 18. Half Cakes, Polished Mahogany, Caddy Lid Box complete 

fitted, each 1 1 00 



FRENCH WATER COLOR BOXES, 

IN GREAT VARIETY, FROM 50 CENTS TO $IO EACH. 



EMPTY JAPANNED TIN BOXES. 



FOR MOIST COLORS IN PANS. 



Winsor & Newton's. American. 

4125, for 6 full or 12 half pans, each $1 50 each $1 00 

4126, for 8 full or 16 half pans, each 1 75 

4127, for 10 full or 20 half pans, each 2 00 

4128, for 12 full or 24 half pans, each 2 25 

4129, for 16 full or 32 half pans, each 2 50 

4130, for 20 full or 40 half pans, each 2 75 

4131, for 24 full or 48 half pans, each 3 00 



" I 


15 


" I 


25 


" I 


45 


" I 


60 


" I 


75 


" 2 


00 



JAPANNED TIN BOXES. 



WITH COLORS FOR SKETCHING. 



4 I 3 1 ^- Japanned tin box with colors, containing: 

6 8 10 12 16 20 24 colors. 

$1 35 $1 50 $1 80 $2 20 $3 00 $3 75 $4 50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 75 

WATER COLOR LIQUIDS. 

No. Price. 

4132. Winsor & Newton's Chinese White, each 40 

4133. " Indian Ink, " 40 

4134- " Oxgall " 40 

4135. " Gold Ink, " 65 

4136. " Carmine, " 50 

4137. Indelible Brown Ink, each 50 

3138. Prout's Brown, each 50 

4138^. Sepia, each 50 



LIQUID INDELIBLE DRAWING INK. 

4160. Liquid Indelible Drawing Ink, Black, each 50 

4161. " Brown, " 50 

4162. " Blue, " 50 

4163. " Green, " 50 

4164. " Scarlet, " 50 

4165. " Carmine, each 50 

These Indelible Drawing Inks are a valuable addition to the draughtsman's 

outfit, and specially adapted for Mechanical Drawing. The lines drawn with these 
colors are perfectly indelible and will not be blurred or defaced by frequently ap- 
plied brush tints. Used with the brush large washes can be laid on more even 
and with less trouble than with cake or moist water colors. 

4139. Keuffel and Esser's Liquid Color, Carmine, each 40 

4140. " " Sepia, " 40 

4141. " " Oxgall " 30 

4142. " Blue, " 30 

4I43- " " Green, " 30 

4154. Dr. Schoenfeldt's Chinese White in bottles, " 35 

4155. " " in tubes, " 20 

This Chinese White is highly recommended and used by many of our leading 
artists in preference to all others. Wood engravers will find it to suit their pur- 
pose best. 

4145. Pure Gold in Cakes, each 2 00 

4146. Pure Gold in Shells, each 20 

4147. Pure Gold in Cups, I inch, each 15 

4148. Pure Gold in Cups, i£ inch, each 25 

4150. Pure Silver in Shells, each 10 

4151. Metallic Cake Colors, in China Saucers, Gold 35 

4152. Metallic Cake Colors, in China Saucers, Silver 30 

4156. California Gold-Paint for decorating purposes, per box, containing 2 

bottles, each 35 



j6 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

EMPTY MAHOGANY COLOR BOXES WITH SLIDE LID. 

4170. For W. & N. Half Cakes, 12 18 24 colors. 

each, 50 60 75 

4171. For W. & N. Full Cakes, 12 18 24 colors. 

each, 60 75 1 00 

Chinese or Indian Inks, solid and liquid ; also Sable and Camel Hair Brushes 
in large varieties. 



CHINA AND GLASSWARE, 



No. 

4348 

435o 

435i 

4352 

4353 

4354 

4355 

4353-1- 

4354-1- 

4355-1- 



Poole's Patent Ink Slab, each 

Keuffel and Esser's Patent Ink Slab, with cover, ifxi^ inch, each. 

2ix 5 f " " . 
Nest of Cabinet. Saucers, 6 in set, 2f inch, set 



2£ 

3i 
3i 
H 

34 

3* 



6 

6 

6 

" deep 4 

" 4 
„ 4 

4359. Architect's Slant and Basin, with 8 divisions and cup, each. 

4360. Ink or Color Slab, 3 holes and slope, i^x2f inch, each 
4361. 
4362. 
4363. 

43°3*- 

4364. Well Slab, with 3 Wells and Slope, each. . 

4365. " "5 " " -• 

4366. Sloping Tile, 3 divisions, 2^x4 inch, each. 



2*X3f 

2fx4i 

3*4i 
34x5 



4367- 


' 


4 


3i*7f 


4368. 


' 


5 


3ix7f 


4369. 


' 


. 6 


3ix7f 


4370. 


' 


8 


6x7f 


4371- 


' 


10 " 


6x7$ 


437i| 


' 


12 " 


6x7f 


4372- 


China C 




... i* 




Each 







2 2^ 3 2i inch diam. 
10 15 25 30. 
4373. Centre Slab, 5 divisions, 2§x6 inch, each 





75 




50 




60 




60 




70 




80 


I 


00 


I 


20 


I 


50 


I 


75 


I 


35 




15 




25 




30 




35 




45 




25 




7o 




20 




35 




45 




55 




70 


I 


00 


I 


20 



25 



LEAD PENCILS. 



GRAPHITE, PLUMBAGO, BLACK LEAD. 



Eighty-one Highest Prizes for Unrivalled Products. Silver Medal, Paris, 
1867 ; Medal for Progress, Vienna, 1873 ; Medal for Merit, Vienna, 1873 ; 
Highest Award, Centennial, 1876 ; Five Medals, American Institute, 1878 ; Two 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. J J 

Gold Medals, Paris, 1878. Dixon's fine American Graphite Pencils, five regular 
grades of hardness of leads, in both round and hexagon shape and beautifully 
finished in different styles, black, maroon and natural color, and new "satin 
finish" style, so popular that it is now being imitated by the other makers. 

S. — Soft. For heavy shading in sketch drawing, or for any use in which a large 
black mark is desired. 

S. M. — Soft Medium. The most popular goods we make. This grade is 
used for the pocket, or for general drawing and sketching, and is wonderfully 
smooth. For all ordinary office use it has no equal. 

M. — Medium. For professional and desk work, and all finer uses where a 
harder lead than the S. M. is wanted ; for accountants, stenographers, draughts- 
men, physicians, etc.; for memorandum books, it is just right; for drawing on 
paper not very smooth, it is exactly right. 

H. — Hard. A hard but smooth lead, suitable for ledger work or outline draw- 
ing ; for civil engineers, architects, draughtsmen, etc.; very fine lines; drawings 
made with this grade need not be inked for the machine shop or for building 
plans ; suitable for compass use. 

V. H. — Very Hard. For the finest lines, almost equal to engraving, but still 
black and smooth. 

Ten Grades of Leads in Artists' Pencils, in hexagon shape, and exquisitely 
finished in the natural color of the cedar wood only. 

Grade Stamps are as follows, viz.: 

Trade Similar Grade to the 

No. European Stamp of 

210. V.V.S. — Very, very soft B.B.B. 

211. V.S.— Very soft B.B. 

212. S.— Soft B. and No. 1. 

213. S.M.— Soft Medium H.B. and No. 2. 

214. M.B.— Medium Black F. 

215. M. — Medium H. and No. 3. 

216. M.H.— Medium Hard H.H. 

217. H.— Hard H. H.H. and No. 4. 

218. V.H.— Very hard H.H. H.H. and No. 5. 

219. V.V.H.— Very, very hard H. H.H. H. H.H. 

Price 
per doz. 

Round Shape, black finish, standard style $ 50 

Hexagon " maroon " " " 60 

Dixon's A. G., plain " Round 30 

' ' H exagon 40 

Lumber Pencils, all lead, paper cover or Japanned 75 

Dixon's Professional Pencils, round, 5 grades. . . 30 

" hexagon, " 40 

Artists' Pencils j 00 

Compass, School and Gem Pocket Pencils 50 

Etc., Etc., Etc. 

Send a postage stamp for circular. 

Methodical Text-Book to Round Writing by F. Soennecken, published by 
Keuffel & Esser, New York, including an assortment of 25 single 
and double pointed pens, each , $1 40, post-paid $1 50 



78 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



Methodical Text-Book, without pens i 10, post-paid, $i 15 

Methodical Text-Book, bound in cloth, with 25 pens .... 2 00, " 2 18 

Copy-Book without instructions (School Edition), including an assortment 

of 25 pens, each 90, post-paid 1 00 

Copy-Book without pens 60, " 64 

Pens, single pointed. 

Nos. 1 2 2i 3 3$ 4 5 6 

BBB BB B M MF F FF FFF 

per gross $1 IO, post-paid $1 25 

" i " 35. " 41 

Pens, double pointed, Nos. 10 20 30 

B M F per £ gross $1 oo, post-paid $1 06 

per dozen 50, " 53 

Every gross or £ gross box contains pens of one number only. 
Sample assortment Single and Double pointed pens, 25 in a box, 35, " 41 

Ink-holder to be applied to Single and Double Pens, specially for writing 

with India Ink and Autograph Ink, per box of 6 30 cts., each 10 




Round Writing Instruments, complete with 9 pens, each $1 50, postage paid $1 60 
Minute pens only .... doz. 75, each 10 

With this Instrument, 2 or 3 parallel lines can be made with one movement ; it 
is used exactly in the same manner as the common single and double round writing 
pens. 

The accompanying 9 minute pens allow to produce 144 different double and 504 
different triple lines, by simply changing the pens in the different places in the 
holder. 




Parcel-Pens, in 4 different widths, for bold and large lettering. 
Nos. 131 133 135 137 

F M B BB 



To 



J.9. inch wide, each, 
5 



25 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 79 

FLUENT WRITING PENS. 

Nos. 203 204 205 206 207 208 square pointed 

103 104 105 106 107 108 oblique pointed 

BBB BB ■ B M F FF 

per gross $1 10, postage paid $1 25 

" i " 35. " 41 

Sample box, containing 25 pens, assorted 25, " 31 

Pen-holders for round writing and fluent writing pens, each 10 

CEDAR BOXES WITH ROUND WRITING PENS. 


Containing n pen-holders and pens, assorted, each 2 oo 

RULED PAPER IN SHEETS. 

Six patterns for round writing, each 6 

These sheets are placed under plain paper to serve as lines to write on. 



RUBBER. 

A. W. Faber's Artist's Rubber, in Cakes, each io to 50 

Natural or Virgin Rubber, in Cakes, each 20 to 50 

Black Rubber, in Cakes, each 10 to 50 

" Ink Eraser, in Cakes, each 6 

Ink Eraser, in Cakes, large, each 10 to 20 

Ink and Pencil Eraser in Cakes, each 15 

Ink and Pencil Eraser in Cakes, Mammoth, each 25 

Green's Ink Eraser, each 6 

Velvet Rubber, oblong, each 10 to 50 



SPONGE RUBBER. 

For Cleaning Drawings. 

0. Small Cakes, about ixlxl inch 10 

2. Medium Size, Rubber Back (Glove Cleaner), 2ixif xf inch 25 

3. Large Size, 4x2x1 inch 60 

4. Mammoth Size, 6x4x1 inch 1 80 

1. Pencil Pointer, 2x2^ inch, each 10 

2. " 2^x4 " 15 

3- " ii*4 " •• 12 

Arkansas Oil Stones, each from .... 25 to I 50 

Arkansas Oil Deskstones on wood, each 75 



8o A. & A. F. SPITZLFS 

Arkansas Oil Stones, in case with cover, 345678 inch 

each $1 00 1 50 2 00 2 25 2 50 2 80 

Mouthglue, per dozen 40 

Mouthglue, fine perfumed, per dozen 80 

Mucilage, in glass bottles with brush, each 25 



A. W. FABER'S PENCILS. 

No. Price. 

4400. Hexagon, very best Siberian, No. 2 B. to 6 H., per doz. $1 25 

4401. " " Drawing, Nos. 1-5 . " 75 

4402. Black round, best, " 1-4 " 60 

4403. Yellow polished, round, " 4 B. to 4 H " 60 

4404. Hexagon, for Mathematical Instruments, No. 4 " 70 

4405. Round, " " " " 60 

4406. Ivory Pocket Pencil, with movable lead, 2J- inch, each 50 

4407- " " . 3i " 60 

4408. " " 3i " 75 

4409. Artist Pencil with Siberian Lead, double pointed, each 35 

44io. " " " 25 

4411. " best " " 20 

4412. Leads for Artist Pencils, Siberian, 6 in box, per box 65 

4413- " " best, " " 35 

4414. Hexagon carmine and blue pencils, per doz 125 

5415. Round " " " .... 1 00 

4416. " blue, per doz 75 

4416^. A. W. Faber's Wax Crayons, per doz., $1.25 ; each 12 

No. I, White ; 2, Yellow ; 13, Dark Blue; 30, Sienna ; 38, Vermilion ; 54, 
Purple ; 62, Orange ; 63, Light Green ; 69, Dark Green ; 75, Carmine ; 88, Light 
Blue ; Black. 

A. W. Faber's Wax Crayons in boxes, assorted colors : 

Nos 6 12 18 24 36 48 

Each $ 80 $1 50 $2 00 $2 50 §3 50 $4 50 

4417. A. W. Faber's Pencil Cases, 

with 5 Siberian Lead Pencils, each $1 00 



4418. " 7 

4419. "10 " 

4420. " 5 

4421. " 5 Yellow round 

4422. " 7 

4423. "10 
4424- " 5 



1 25 

" 1 75 

Rubber and Knife each 1 25 

each 60 

" 75 

" 85 

Rubber and Knife, each 1 00 

4425. Red Chalk, in cedar, for marking stakes, doz 75 

4426. " in sticks, covered with paper, " 25 

4427- " " " " 50 

4428. Black Conte Crayons in Wood, No. 1-2, " 60 

4429- " "3 " 9° 

4430. " " Velours, very soft, doz 1 25 

4431. White doz 60 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



8l 



No. 

4432. Black Conte Crayons, square, No. 1, 2, 3, doz. in a box, per doz. 



4433- 

4434- " 

4435. White 

4436 " 



round, " I, 2, 

' ' polished 

square, No. 1, 2, 

round, " 1, 2 



3. 



Small. 

$ 75 
30 



4437. Conte Crayon Sauce, in tin foil per doz, 

4437 -2. " " common, not in tin foil. .. . " 

4438. Paper Stumps, assorted, doz 

4439. Chamois Leather Stumps, assorted, doz ... 

4439-1. White Kid " " " . 

4439-2. Cork " " 

4439-3. Minute " for very delicate work, gray paper, doz. . 

" " " rose or white, " .. 
4439-4. Rubber Stumps, wood centre, No. 1, 4^ inch, each 

" 2, 5i " " 

" 3, 5* " " 

4439-5. Rubber Stamps, all Rubber, "10,4 " " 

" 20, 31 ,: " 

" 30, 2\ " " 

4440. Crayon Holder, Brass, 5 inch and 6 inch each, 

4440-2. " " 5^ " " 

4440-3. " " 7 " extra large and heavy " 

4441. " German Silver, 5 inch " 



Price. 
20 
40 
60 
20 
40 

Large. 

$1 20 
50 

35 

1 25 

1 50 

1 50 

10 

12 

15 

25 

35 

12 

10 



4442 
4443 
4444 
4445 
4446 



Brass, Ebony Handle, 5 inch. 



fine. 



" German Silver, Ebony Handle, 5 inch, fine. . . 

" Brass, double wooden centre, 7 inch 

German Silver, double wooden centre, 7 inch, 

4446-I. Crayon, Pencil and Charcoal Holder combined. 

4446-2. Crayons, round, for above, 6 in tin box, No. 1 or 2, each box. 



6 
20 

25 
10 

15 
25 
25 
40 

35 
25 



CHARCOAL 



4447. Charcoal, 50 sticks in a box each, 

4447-2. " extra large " 

4448. " fine.... " 

4449. extra fine " 

4449-1. " Rouget's Patent, assorted according to the different 

degrees of hardness, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 25 sticks in a box " 

4449-2. Crayon Pointer, a very useful instrument to point Charcoal and 

Crayons, each 

4449-3. Burnt Rubber, small, each , 

4449-4- large, " 

(A prepared Rubber indispensable for Drawing in Crayon.) 
4449-5. Rouget's Fixative, a preparation to make Crayon Drawings in- 
delible, bottle 

6 



25 
40 
40 
60 

40 

20 

6 

10 



50 



82 



A. & A. F. SPITZLFS 



No. Price. 

4449-7. Crayon Box, polished, with lock and key, fitted with Crayons, 
Crayon-holders, Charcoal, Rubber, Stumps, Pencils, etc., etc., 
each $1 65 

4449-8. do. do. do., finer and more complete, each 2 65 

(Larger Crayon Boxes fitted up to order.) 



STEEL PENS. 

4450. Lithographic Crow Quill, Joseph Gillot's, doz $ 75 

445C4. Superfine long shoulder Crow Quill, " " 1 00 

4451. Lithographic Pen, " " 75 

4452. Mapping " " 75 

4453. or Ladies' Pen, No. 170, " " 15 

4454. Lettering Pen, " 303, " " 20 

" 404. " " 15 

4455. Crow Quill Pen, with holder, French, " 50 

4456. " " " " English, " 50 

4457. Gold Lettering Pens, wooden holder, " 2 00 

4458. Keuffel & Esser's Drawing and Lettering Pens, " 60 

The pens 4458 are specially made for draughtsmen, to be used for drawing and 
lettering on drawing paper which has a more or less coarse surface. 

These pens, having longer nibs and less sharp points than most of those hereto- 
fore in use, possess a great elasticity and allow to draw or letter more rapidly, 
without annoying the draughtsmen by continuously scratching or catching the nibs 
of the pens in the grain of the paper. Draughtsmen will prefer those pens to 
Crow Quill, Mapping or Lithographic Pens, all of which are intended principally 
for drawing on stone. 

Send for separate lists of A. W. Faber's Demestic Pencils, A. W. Faber's Gold 
Pens and Pencil Cases, A. W. Faber's Rubber Goods, E. Faber's Penholders, 
E. Faber's Miscellaneous Stationers' Articles, any of which we will mail on 
receipt of postage. 



NO. 1, CHEMICAL CABINET. 



Contains 60 Chemical Tests and Apparatus. Without strong acids or other 
dangerous articles. They are perfectly safe in the hand of youth, and are admira- 
bly adapted as presents. Prices : 

No. 1, Cedar Case, with Book of Experiments $ 3 50 

No. 2, polished Black Walnut Case with lock, with Book of Experiments, 4 50 

CONTENTS. 

Acetate of Lead, Alum, Benzoic Acid, Bichromate of Potash, Biborate of Soda, 
Carbonate of Magnesia, Camphor, Caustic Potash, Carbonate of Potash, Charcoal, 
Chloride of Cobalt, Chlorate of Potash, Fluate of Lime, Gum Arabic, Isinglass, 
Litharge, Logwood, Lycopodium, Muriate of Ammonia, Nitrate of Baryta, Nitrate 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 83 

of Copper, Nitrate of Mercury, Nitrate of Potash, Nitrate of Silver, Nitrate of 
Strontian, Oxalate of Ammonia, Oxide of Manganese, Phosphorized Oil, Phos- 
phuret of Lime, Prussiate of Potash, Red Lead, Resin, Steel Filings, Stourbridge 
Clay, Sulphate of Copper, Sulphate of Iron, Sulphate of Soda, Sulphur, Sulphuret 
of Antimony, Tartaric Acid, Tincture of Galls, Tincture of Litmus. 

APPARATUS. 

Glass Mortar and Pestle, Glass Spirit Lamp, Cotton Wick, Metallic Capsule, Tri- 
angular Crucible, Conical Test Glass, Tripod Stand, Glass Stirring Rod, Glass 
Tube, Test Tube, Glass Funnel, Filtering Paper, Litmus Paper, Tumeric Paper, 
Tin Foil, Metallic Zinc, Sheet Zinc, French Chalk. 



NO, 2, LABORATORY CABINET. 

PRICE, WITH BOOK, $6 OO. 

Contains 54 Chemical preparations, and 30 pieces of Apparatus. Free 

from danger 6 00 

CONTENTS. 

Acetate of Lead, Alum, Antimony, Benzoic Acid, Biborate of Soda, Bichromate of 
Potash, Boracic Acid, Carbonate of Ammonia, Carbonate of Lime, Carbonate of 
Magnesia, Carbonate of Potash, Carbonate of Soda, Camphor, Caustic Potash, 
Chloride of Ammonium, Chloride of Lime, Chloride of Cobalt, Chlorate of Potash, 
Charcoal, Fluate of Lime, Galena, Granulated Zinc, Gum Arabic, Isinglass, Iron 
Filings, Litharge, Litmus, Logwood, Lycopodium, Nitrate of Barytes, Nitrate of 
Copper, Nitrate of Mercury, Nitrate of Silver, Nitrate of Strontian, Oxalate of 
Ammonia, Oxide of Lead, Oxide of Manganese, Phosphate of Soda, Phosphorized 
Oil, Phosphuret of Lime, Prussiate of Potash, Staurbridge Clay, Sulphuret of An- 
timony, Sulphate of Copper, Sulphate of Iron, Sulphate of Magnesia, Sulphate of 
Soda, Sulphur, Sulphuret of Iron, Tartaric Acid, Tincture of Litmus, Tincture of 
Galls, Test Papers. 

APPARATUS, ETC. 

Glass Spirit Lamp, Glass Mortar and Pestle, Triangular Crucible, Conical Test 
Glass. Ribbed Glass Funnel, Packet of Filters, Tripod Stand, Two Test Tubes, 
Test Tube-holder, Test Tube-cleaner, Tin Capsule, Porcelain Evaporating Basin, 
Bohemian Flask, Pipette, 3 Glass Tubes, 2 Glass Stirrers, Litmus Paper, Tumeric 
Paper, Slip of Copper, Slip of Zinc, Tin Foil, Two Glass Slips for Testing, Iron 
Rod for Testing, Copper Rod for Testing, Bibulous Paper. 



NO. 3, STUDENT'S CHEMICAL CABINET. 

Contains 36 boxes and 12 bottles filled with Chemicals, and a large assort- 
ment of Apparatus of practically useful size. Arranged in pol- 
ished black walnut'cabinet, with lock 8 00 



S4 A- & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

CHEMICALS. 

Alum, Ammonia Carbonate, Ammonia Caustic, Chloride, Oxalate, Antimony Sul- 
phide, Barium Chloride, Baryta Nitrate, Benzoic Acid, Boraoic Acid, Charcoal, 
Cobalt Chloride, Copper Nitrate, Copper Sulphate, Galls Tincture, Iron Filings, 
Potash Bichromate, Iron Sulphate, Iron Sulphide, Lead Acetate, Lime Carbonate, 
Lime Chloride, Lime Fluate, Lime Phosphuret, Litharge, Litmus, Litmus Tinct- 
ure, Lycopodium, Magnesia Carbonate, Manganese Oxide, Phosphorus, Potash 
Carbonate, Potash Caustic, Potash Chlorate, Potash Prussiate, Potash Nitrate, 
Potash Sulphate, Silver Nitrate, Soda Biborate, Soda Carbonate, Soda Phosphate, 
Soda Sulphate, Strontian Nitrate, Sulphur, Tartaric Acid, Tumeric, Zinc Granu- 
lated. 

APPARATUS. 

Glass Mortar and Pestle, Glass Spirit Lamp, Wick for Spirit Lamp, Evaporating 
Basin, 3 Test Tubes, assorted, Test Tube Cleaner, Test Tube Holder, Bohemian 
Flask, Bulb Boiling Tube, 2 Glass Tubes, Sheet Litmus Paper, Sheet Tumeric 
Paper, Sheet Bibulous Paper, Ribbed Glass Funnel, Packet of Filters for Funnel, 
2 Glass Stirring Rods, Oxygen Tube Retort, Watch Glass, Tinned Sand Bath, 
Tinned Capsule, Cylindrical Test Glass, 3 Hessian Crucibles, Copper Rod, Iron 
Rod, Zinc Rod, Pipette, Retort Stand. 



NO. 4, STUDENT'S PORTABLE CHEMICAL CABINET. 

In handsome polished black walnut cabinet, containing 42 pieces of apparatus 
and 50 chemical preparations, in all 92 articles suitable for any text book in 
chemistry. Price, $14 00 

CONTENTS. 

Retort Stand, 1 Ring ; Porcelain Mortar and Pestle, No. 00 ; Glass Spirit Lamp, 
1 oz.; Cotton Wick, 3 feet ; Blowpipe, Platinum Blowpipe Wire, Platinum Foil, 
Iron Spoon for Fusions, Albata Test Spoon, Set of 3 Beaker Glasses, Glass flask, 3 
oz.; Test Tubes, 3 x £ and 4 x ^ inch ; Test Tubes, 4x1 and 5x{ inch ; Test 
Tubes, 3 x J inch (3); Berzelius Bulb Tube (2); Watch Glass, 2 inch ; Porcelain 
Capsule and handle (2), Funnel, No. 2, i£ inch ; Filters for Funnel, 2f inch (100); 
Funnel, No. 1, ij inch ; Filters, for No. 1, i\ inch (100); Clark's Test Glass, Book 
of Litmus Paper, Book of Tumeric Paper, Test Metals, Fe, Cu, Zn ; Stirrers, 1 
each, 3 inch and 6 inch ; Filtering Ring, 2 arms ; Straight Pipette, 6 inch ; Open 
Glass Tubes, \ to \ inch (4); Tube Holder with Handle ; Porcelain Crucible, No. 
o ; Porcelain Basin, No. o; Porcelain Cup, No. 1 ; Porcelain Cup, No. 3 ; Porcelain 
Cup, No. 6. 



FIFTY CHEMICAL PREPARATIONS. 

Contained in 4 stoppered £ oz. bottles, 10 corked \ oz. bottles, 14 \ oz. wooden 
boxes, and 22 \ oz. paper boxes, as follows : 

Alum, Ammonia Carbonate, Ammonia Chloride, Ammonia Oxalate, Antimony 
Sulphide, Barium Chloride, Boracic Acid, Bleaching Powder, Calcium Chloride, 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 85 

Cobalt Chloride, Cobalt Nitrate, Copper Nitrate, Copper Sulphate, Fluor Spar, 
Galena, Galls Tincture, Iron Pyrites, Iron Sulphate, Iron Sulphide, Lead Acetate, 
Lead Carbonate, Litharge, Litmus, Magnesium Carbonate, Magnesium Sulphate, 
Manganese Peroxide, Microcosmic Salt, Oxalic Acid, Phosphorus, Potassium Bi- 
chomatic, Potassium Binoxalate, Potassium Cyanide, Potassium Carbonate, Po- 
tassium Chlorate, Potassium Ferridcyanide, Potassium Ferrocyanide, Potassium 
Hydrate, Potassium Iodide, Potassium Sulphate, Silver Nitrate, Sodium Borate, 
Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Phosphate, Strontium Nitrate, Sulphur, Tartaric Acid, 
Tin Granulated, Tin Protochloride, Zinc Granulated. 



NO. 5, STUDENT'S PORTABLE CHEMICAL CABINET. 

In handsome polished mahogany cabinet, containing over 72 pieces of chemical ap- 
paratus of a good working size, for manipulating in the gases, etc., and 60 chemical 
preparations. This set is suitable for performing the the experiments in any text 
book. Price, $22 00. 

Retort Stand, 3 Rings; Porcelain Mortar, No. 00 ; Glass Spirit Lamp, 1 oz.; Cot- 
ton Wick, 1 yard ; Blowpipe, Platinum Blowpipe Wire, Platinum Blowpipe Foil, 
Albata Test Spoon, Iron Spoon for Fusions, Iron Tongs with Spoon, Set of 3 
Beaker Glasses, Glass flasks, I, 2 and 3 oz.; Bulb Tube, large size (2); Gas bottle, 
funnel and tube, small ; Cork and Jet for ditto ; Test Tubes, 3 x J inch (2); Test 
Tubes, 4 x f inch (3); Test Tubes, 6x1 inch (1); Test Tubes, 3 x ^ inch (6); Fold- 
ing Frame for 6 tubes, Glass Funnel No. 1, i^ inch ; Glass Funnel No. 2, x\ inch ; 
Filters for No. I Funnel (100); Filters for No. 2 Funnel (100); Filter Ring, 2 arms; 
Clark's Test Glass ; Box of six Test Paper Books, Porcelain Test Plates, Nos. 8 
and 9 (2); Stirrers, 2 each, 3 and 6 inch ; Open Tubes, £ and \ inch (2); Test 
metals; Cu, Fe, Zn; Test Tube Holder, Straight Pipette, 6 in. ; Test Tube Brush; 
Glass Retort, 2 oz.; Glass Receiver, 2 oz.; Watch Glasses, 2 in. (2); Porcelain Basin, 
No. 00; Porcelain Basin, No. 1, Porcelain Cup, No. 12 (2); Porcelain Cup, No. 10; 
Porcelain Cup, No. 1; Porcelain Cup, No. 2; Porcelain Crucible, No. 000; Porcelain 
Crucible, No. 00 ; Beehive Shelf, 4 inch ; Graduated measure, 4 oz.; Alum, Am- 
monia Caustic, Ammonia Carbonate, Ammonia Chloride, Ammonia Oxalate, Anti- 
mony Sulphide, Arsenious Acid, Barium Chloride, Barium Chloride Solution, Ba- 
rium Nitrate, Boracic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Calcium Chloride Solution ; Cobalt Ni- 
trate Solution, Cobalt Ore, Copper Sulphate, Copper turnings. Fluor Spar, Galena, 
Iron Pyrites, Iron Sulphate, Iron Snlphide, Lead Acetate, Lead Acetate Solution, 
Lead Carbonate, Lead Nitrate Solution, Litharge, Litmus, Magnesium Carbonate, 
Magnesium Sulphate, Manganese Peroxide, Mercurous Chloride, Microcosmic Salt, 
Oxalic Acid, Phosphorus, Platinum Bichloride Solution, Potassium Bichromate, 
Potassium Binoxalate, Potassium Bitartrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Cya- 
nide, Potassium Ferncyanide, Potassium Ferrocyanide, Potassium Ferricyanide So- 
lution, Potassium Hydrate, Potassium Iodide, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sul- 
phate, Realgar, Silver Nitrate Solution, Sodium Borate, Sodium Carbonate, Sodium 
Phosphate, Strontium Chloride, Strontium Nitrate, Sulphur, Tartaric Acid, Tin 
Chloride, Tin Granulated, Zinc Granulated. 



86 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

A SET OF APPARATUS AND CHEMICALS, 

Intended to illustrate a first course of chemical experiments, as explained in Chem- 
ical Recreations by J. J. Griffin. The apparatus in this set are intended to illus- 
trate elementary chemistry, the qualitive analysis of salts, and centigrade testing. 
This is the set for teachers in schools ; price, $30 00. 

Griffin's Chemical Recreations. — Part I. Price $i 00. 

SET A-FOR INDICATING TESTS. 

Porcelain Mortar, No. 00 ; Albata Test Spoons, Flask, 2 oz.; Pipette, 25 Septems ; 
Glass Spirit Lamp, Cotton Wick for Lamp, Brass Tongs to trim Lamp, Furnace 
Cylinder, Trellis Top for Furnace, Box with 100 Filters, 2f inch ; Filter Ring, 
Water Bottle, Glass Funnel, if inch ; Support for Funnel, Pipettes, 5 inch (2); Test 
Glasses, Conical (8); Stirrers, 3 inch (8); Boiling Tubes, 6x1 inch (2); Handle for 
Hot Tubes, Book of Red Litmus, Bock of Blue Litmus, Tubes for S. H. Gas, 
Pipette Bottles, 1 oz. size (9); Bottles with Stoppers, 1 oz. (2). 

SET B-FOR CONFIRMING TESTS. 

Porcelain Cup, 1 inch ; Retort Stand, Blowpipe, Blowpipe Lamp and Stand, 
Platinum Wires (2), Platinum Foils (2), Platinum Tongs, Thin Copper Wire, Char- 
coal Pastiles (36), Crucibles for Pastiles (2), Wire Supports for Pastiles (2), Ham- 
mer, Anvil, Closed Tubes, 2 x \ inch (3); Box Test Papers, Support for Sublimates, 
Borax in a Box, Microcosmic Salt in a Box, Soda Carbonate in a Box, Cobalt Ni- 
trate, 2 oz. bottle ; Stoppered Bottles to Contain Test Solutions, 2 oz. size, labelled 
but empty (8); Corked Bottles, with Wide Mouths, to Contain Dry Tests, 1 oz. size, 
labelled, but empty (7). 

SET C-REAGENTS. 

INDICATING tests. 
Sodium Carbonate, Ammonia, Ammonia Molybdate, Sulphuric Acid, Concent., 
Hydrochloric Acid, Potassium Hydrate, Potassium Ferricyanide, Barium Nitrate, 
Silver Nitrate, Calcium Chloride, Nitric Acid, Lead Nitrate. 

CONFIRMING TESTS. 

Potassium Chromate, Potassium Bichromate, Potassium Ferrocyanide, Potassium 
Antimoniate, Calcium Sulphate, Platinum Chloride, 50, \ oz.; Gold Chloride, \ oz.; 
Gold Test in Dry State, Calcium Sulphide, Potassium Bisulphate, Ferrous Sul- 
phate, Manganese Peroxide, Stannous Chloride, Copper Sulphate, Lead Acetate, 
Magnesium Sulphate, Sodium Chloride. 

The Complete Sets A, B and C, Price $30 00. 



A SET OF APPARATUS AND CHEMICALS, 

To illustrate Prof. Roscoe's Primer of Chemistry, which explains the fundamental 
principles in an easy and pleasant manner, well illustrated. Price, of set complete, 
$35 00. 

Exp. 1. Taper with wire holder. 

Exp. 3. Glass tube containing a taper, with U tube for holding the caustic soda, 
and rubber tubing to connect with the aspirator. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 87 

Pair of hand scales with brass pans and weights from 2 oz. downward, in oak 
box. 

Exp. 5. A 2 oz. glass flask, iron tripod stand, Bunsen's burner, with one yard of 
rubber tubing. 

(This will be replaced by a spirit lamp and 1 pint of wood alcohol when desired.) 

Exp. 6. A bell jar ; capsule to contain the phosphorus. 

Exp. 12. Apparatus for decomposing water by electricity, with two collecting 
tubes and wire to suspend them. 

A 4-cell Bunsen's battery, with wires. 

Exp. 14. Glass mortar and pestle, gas esprouvette. 

Exp. 15. Flask etc., for generating hydrogen, stoneware pneumatic trough, with 
beehive shelf. 

Four wide mouthed gas collecting bottles, pint size. 

Three stoneware gas trays. 

Exp. 20. A pint flask, wash bottle, two U shaped calcium chloride tubes and a 
hard glass tube to contain the copper oxide. 

Exp. 21. Two 8 oz. stoppered glass retorts, a retort stand, with three rings and a 
clamp for test tubes, etc. 

Exp. 23. A 16 oz. porcelain evaporating dish and a 4 oz. evaporating dish. 

Exp. 25. Two 3 inch glass funnels, 100 filter papers. 

Exp. 31. A horseshoe magnet. 

Exp. 32. A palette knife. 

Exp. 37. A piece of iron wire gauze, 6 inch square. 

Exp. 42. Iron tray or sand bath. 

Exp. 44. One dozen 5 inch test tubes, test tube holder, test tube stand for twelve 
tubes. 

One blowpipe, two files (round and triangular). 

Half a pound of glass tubing, 2 dozen spare corks. 

Four lbs. Sulphuric Acid, 3 lbs. Nitric Acid, 2 lbs. Hydrochloric Acid, 1 pint 
Lime Water, 4 oz. Ammonia Solution, 4 oz. Caustic Potash, 4 oz. Sodium Carbon- 
ate, 4 oz. Potassium Chromate, 4 oz. Potassium Ferrocyanide, 4 oz. Silver Nitrate, 
4 oz. Litmus, 4 oz. Indigo, 8 oz. Calcium Chloride, 8 oz. Marble, 8 oz. Iron Filings, 
4 oz. Lime, 4 oz. Gypsum, 4 oz. Stourbridge Clay, 4 oz. Bleaching Powder, 1 lb. 
Manganese Dioxide, 4 oz. Soda Crystals, 4 oz. Alum, 4 oz. Sulphur Roll, 4 oz. 
Sulphur flour, 4 oz. Potassium Nitrate, 2 oz. Zinc, 2 oz. Copper Turnings, 2 oz. 
Copper Oxide, 2 oz. Copper Sulphate, 2 oz. Antimony, 2 oz. Mercury, 2 oz. Lead 
Acetate, 2 oz. Castor Oil, 2 oz. Caustic Soda (solid), 1 oz. Sodium Carbonate Anhy- 
drous. 1 oz. Phosphorus Yellow, \ oz. Phosphorus Red, $ oz. Tin Oxide, | oz. Mer- 
cury Oxide, 1 dram Potassium, 1 dram Sodium, 6 leaves Gold Leaf, ^ yard Magne- 
sium Ribbon, 1 Book Litmus Paper, 1 piece Charcoal. 

Forty-three bottles (various) to contain the above chemicals and preparations. 



88 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



SCALES PRICE LIST. 



5001. Druggists' Scales, with Wood Box, Marble Top and Brass Pans. 

Price. 

No. I. 26 inch Box, 12 inch Pans, 30 pounds capacity.. $39 00 

" 2. 20 " 9 " 20 " • 28 00 

"3.18 " 8 " 10 " 2300 

" 4. 15 " 7 " 4 " 2000 

5002. Druggists' Scales, with Marble Top, Metallic Sides, Bronze Edges, Brass 

Pans. 

Price. 
$50 00 

43 50 

. 32 00 

23 00 

20 00 



10J inch Pans, 44 pounds capacity . 

9* " 33 

7f " 18 

6i " 4i 

5i " 2* 



No. 1. 
" 2. 
" 3- 

" 4- 
" 5- 

5003 Brass Weights in Block, Avoirdupois. 



Capacity, 4 pounds to -j- 1 ^ ounce. 

2 « 1 « 

* la 

" 1 " 



With 
Open Block. 

.Price, $16 00 



Te IO 50 

A t " " 7 00 

Single Weights. Separate from Full Sets. 

Capacity j-'-g- ounce Price each, 

" i " 



With 
Cov'd Block. 

$18 OO 

12 OO 

8 OO 



i " • 

i " • 

1 " 

2 " 

4 " • 

8 " 

1 pound. 

2 " . 
4 " 



5004. Brass Weights in Block, Troy. 

With 
Capacity. Open Block. 

500 ounces down Price, $68 00 



300 

200 

100 

50 

30 

20 

10 

5 



50 00 
36 00 
25 OO 
20 OO 
15 00 

12 OO 

10 00 
8 00 



25 
25 

35 
50 
65 

75 

85 

1 15 

1 50 

2 50 
4 00 
7 5o 



With 
Cov'd Block. 

$72 OO 

54 OO 

40 OO 

29 OO 

23 00 

18 00 

15 00 

12 OO 

IO OO 



5005. Bank Scale, with Metal Base. 

No. 1. Capacity 100 oz Price, without weights, $140 00 

" 2. " 300 oz " " " 33000 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



8 9 



5006. Bank Scale, with Brass Beam, Brass Column, Mounted on Wood Box 
Capacity 100 ounces Price, without weights, $85 00 

5007. Brass Cup Weights, Troy. 

Capacity 64 oz. down Price, 

32 " " 

16 " , " 



$10 00 

6 75 

4 

2 

1 



Sealed Troy Pennyweights Per set, 

" Scruples and Drachms " 

" Grain Weights .... " 



5008. Jewelers' and Brokers' Scales, very finely adjusted. 



Diam. 
of Pans. 

4 in. 
44 " 

5 " 

6 " 

74 " 

8 " 

104 " 



Length 
of Beam. 

7 in. 

8 " 

9 " 
10 " 



15 
20 



Length 
of Box. 

12 in. 

134 " 

15 " 
i 7 i " 
20 " 
24 " 

33 " 



Weights. 

8 OZ 

8 " 

16 " 

32 " 

32 " 

64 " 

128 " 



Description. No. 

Brass Column, Brass ") o. 

Beam, Brass Pans | 1. 

and Chains, and | 2. 

Wood Box with )- 3. 

Drawer, sealed Troy | 4. 

Cup Weights, dwts. | 5. 

and grns. complete, J 6. 

5009. French Gold Scales, Mounted on Box. 

Length of Beam. Length of Box. 

No. 24 5^ inches. g| inches. 

"32 74 " 12$ " 

" 35 H " 14 

5012. Standard Yard Measure. 

Description. Without Case. 

All Brass $1800 



Price 
$13 50 
15 50 
18 OO 
23 OO 

27 50 

35 50 
77 00 

Price. 

$5 50 
7 70 
9 00 

With Case. 
$22 OO 



50I3- 

No. I 
" 2 

" 3 
5014. 

50I5- 

No. 3 

" 4 
" 6 



Prescription Scale with Glass Case and Glass Bottom. 

Length of Beam. Price. 

12 inches $ 35 00 

IO " 33 0O 

.... 8 " 3200 

Sampling Scale, length of beam 6 inches 7 00 

Prescription Scales. Plain Top — all Brass. 

Length of Beam. Price. 

8 inches $ 9 00 

7 " 800 

6 " 700 



5016. Prescription Scales, with Lever, Mounted on Marble Slab. 

Length of Beam. Brass. Glass Case. 

No. I 12 inches price, $16 50 $30 00 

" 2 10 " " 1400 2700 

" 3 8 " " 11 00 22 00 



go A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

5017. Prescription Scales with Lever, Mountedon Box with Marble Slab. 

Length uf Beam. Brass. Silver-plated. 

No. 1 12 inches price, $22 00 $28 00 

" 2 10 " " 16 50 20 00 

" 3 8 " " 13 50 15 50 

5018. Yarn Scales for Runs ) 

5018*. Yarn Scales for Worsted Numbers V $8 00 to $45 00 

5018**. Yarn Scales for Cotton Numbers ) 

These Scales have one shell and beam weighted to show the size of yarn by the 
number of yards required to balance it. • 

5021. Weights in sets for woolen, worsted and cotton yarn, per set 

each . .brass, $2 00; nickle-plated, ^3 50 

These weights may be used with any fine balance scales. 

5022. Weights to determine the weight of a yard of goods from a 

small sample. Full instructions given with the weights. .$5 OO to $10 OO 



FOLDING EASELS 

FOR DESIGNS TO BE COPIED, MUSIC, BOOKS, ETC. 

Polished Folding Easel, 14 inch long, 7 inch high, folded only 7 inch 

long, i£ inch square, each $ 50 

Polished Folding Easel, 18 inch long, 9 inch high, folded only 9 inch 

long, if inch square, each 60 

3. Polished Folding Easel, 18 inch long, 9 inch high without top, only 9 

inch long, if x i-J inch square, each 75 

4. Fine Polished Folding Easel, 18 inch long x 9 inch high without top, 

folded only 9 inch long, if x 1^ inch square, each 1 00 

do. do. fine of Rosewood, do. do. do. each, .... 1 75 



PORT FOLIOS. 

Port Folios, School. 

Size 11x16 14x18 16x22 19x25 

Each $ 60 .$ 80 $1 00 $1 25 

Port Folios, Cloth Back and Corners. 

Size ......11x16 14x18 16x22 19x25 

Each $ 80 $1 10 $1 40 $2 00 

Port Folios, Fine Strongest Board, Leather Back and Corners. 

Size 14 x 18 16 x 22 19x25 22 x 30 26 x 36 

Each $2 00 $2 50 $3 00 $4 50 $6 00 



DESIGN PAPER, 

To furnish this specialty in all its varieties, at prices to defy competition, has 
cost us a deal of pains, but our contracts for paper and ruling are now such that 
we can furnish design paper cheaper than any one else without doing ourselves an 



22 


x 30 


$1 


75 


22 


x 30 


*2 


50 


32 


x 42 


*7 


50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. g\ 

injustice or resorting to the tricks of trade so common in this particular class of 
goods. Our prices are lower than those of any other reliable house that we know 
of. This fact, however, is not due to the desire to cut trade prices, but because 
we have good reason to believe that when our papers have been tried, individual 
orders will be larger than heretofore, when almost every purchase was a new ex- 
periment. For single sheets or broken quires we are obliged to charge New York 
market prices — 10 to 20 cents per sheet of ruled paper, 15 to 25 cents per sheet of 
printed paper. Printed paper can be furnished by the yard. Prices of design 
paper in the roll are not included in the price list, as that form meets but little 
favor. Pads, on the contrary, are not put in, because we make those up to order 
at a very little advance upon the price of loose paper, it being a process always in 
hand and quickly done. Any designer who uses slips of any particular size will 
find the pads most convenient and cheapest, because they allow little waste if 
proper sizes are used. 

In ordering new kinds and styles of paper, a hand-ruled sample should be 
inclosed. On large orders, two colors of ink may be arranged in various ways 
without extra cost for ruling. Additional colors cause extra expense, and changes 
in small orders are very expensive. Printed papers can be made in more than one 
color only at a great cost. 

What are termed plaided papers in two or more colors, ruled to order : 8 blue lines, 
8 red lines ; 8 blue lines, 4 red lines ; 4 blue lines, 8 red lines ; 12 blue lines, 4 red 
lines ; 4 blue lines, 12 red lines ; 4 blue lines, 4 red lines. Other proportions cost 
a little extra, according to size of order. 

Draft Blanks for woolen mills made to order, and furnished in loose sheets, pads 
or books. The latter can be made like a stub-check book. Tracing paper ruled 
or printed to match all our regular styles of paper ; a great convenience for copying 
drafts. Prices double that of common design paper. 



DESIGN PAPER-PRICE LIST, 



Size of 


, HEAVY. x 

Ruled. Ruled. 
One side. Both sides. 


Ruled. 
One side. 


EXTRA HEAVY. 

Ruled Printed. 
Both sides. One side. 


Printed. 
Both sides 


Sheet. 


Per 
Q- 


Per 
R. 


Per 
Q- 


Per 
R. 


Per 

Q. 


Per 
R. 


Per 

Q. 


Per 
R. 


Per 
Q- 


Per 

Q. 


14 X 17 


.50 


6.00 


.60 


7.50 


.60 


7-50 


.70 


8-75 


4.OO 


4-50 


l6 X 21 


.60 


7.5O 


.70 


8.75 


•75 


g.OO 


.90 


IO.50 


4.50 


5 00 


18 x 23 


•75 


g.OO 


.QO 


IO.5O 


.90 


"•75 


1. 00 


12-75 


5-00 


5-5o 



Above prices are for one or two colors on the ruled paper, one color on the 
printed. More colors increase the price on orders of less than four reams. With 
one color the squares are blocked off by heavier lines. In two colors the second 
color is used for blocking in a heavy line ; \ inch block may contain 2, 4 or 5 
squares per block ; £ inch blocks may contain 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 or 12 squares per block ; 
■|and 1 inch blocks may contain 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12 or 16 squares per block. On the 
printed papers ^ inch blocks contain 4, 5 or 8 squares per block. Samples of de- 
sign paper sent on receipt of postage. 

The above are our regular styles, but not all kept in stock. Of those not in 
stock, any order of not less than one quire will be promptly ruled or printed with- 
out extra charge. Other styles can also be furnished very promptly. 



9 2 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



DRAWING PAPERS IN SHEETS, 

Whatman's Drawing Papers. Hand-made. 

H.P. signifies Hot Pressed, and has a smooth surface. 

N. " Not Hot Pressed, and has a finely grained surface. 

R. " Rough, and has a coarsely grained surface. 

H.P. Paper is mostly used for pencil and very fine line-drawings. 

N. Paper is used for general purposes and water-color drawing. 

R. Paper for very bold drawing and sketching. 

Selected 
Best. 
N., per quire, $ 80 

" 1 00 

1 50 

1 85 

2 40 

3 50 

5 00 

6 00 
30 00 

1 75 

3 00 

3 75 per 

7 50 



Cap 13x17 inch H.P 

Demy 15x20 " 

Medium 17x22 " 

Royal 19x24 " 

Super Royal 19x27 ' ' 

Imperial 22x30 ' ' 

Atlas 26x34 " 

Double Elephant. . .27x40 " 

Antiquarian 3^53 " 

31x53 " 

Griffin Antiquarian. .31x53 

Imperial 22x30 

Double Elephant, .. .27x40 " " " 

2. Whatman's Extra Thick Drawing Papers. 

Royal 19x24 inch N., per quire, 

Imperial 22x30 " H.P. N. R. " 

Double Elephant .27x40 " N. R. " 



N., 
R., 



per sheet, 



per quire, 



$4 75 per 
9 OO 
14 OO 



Retree or 
Second 
Quality. 

$ 70 

85 
I 25 

1 60 

2 OO 

3 00 

4 50 

5 50 
18 00 

90 

sheet, 1 8 

35 

sheet, 55 
45 
75 



2-J. Imitation Creswick Drawing Papers. 

Imperial 22x30 inch N., " $7 50 per sheet, 38 

Whatman's Drawing Papers, "Selected Best " and " Retree," are both of the 
same quality, as they are made of the same material. The "Selected Best" 
quality are the best sheets, without imperfections. Both bear the impression : 
" Whatman " or " Whatman Turkey Mills." 

3. Antique or Eggshell Papers, best quality. 

Demy 15x20 inch, per quire, $ 80 

Medium 17x22 " " j 10 

Royal ... .19x24 " " 1 40 

Imperial 22x30 " " 2 25 

4, Machine Papers, good quality, used in Schools for Pencil and Crayon 

Drawings. 

Cap 14x17 inch per quire, 

Demy 15x20 



Medium 17x22 

Royal 19x24 

Super Royal 19x27 

Imperial 22x30 

Double Elephant. . .27x40 



2 50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



93 



5. J. D. Harding's Papers, for Water Color Sketching. 

Imperial 22x30 inch, per quire, $4 00 

" extra thick, 22x30 " " S 00 

6. English Tinted Crayon Papers. 

Imperial 22x30 inch, 12 different tints per quire, *3 00 

Double Elephant. . .27x40 " 6 " " " 4 50 

7. German Tinted Crayon Papers, Rough Grain, 12 different tints. 

Royal 18^x24^ inch per quire, $1 60 

8. French Tinted Crayon Papers, Slight Grain, 12 different tints. 

Royal 19x25 inch per quire, $1 25 



9. French Tinted Charcoal Papers, 12 different tints. 

Royal 19x25 inch per quire, 



75 



10. English White Bristol Boards, Smooth Surface. 

2 Sheets. 3 Sheets. 4 Sheets. 

Cap I2fxi6j inch perdoz., $ 65 $100 $135 

Demy 14^x18^ " " 

Medium i6-Jx2of " " 

Royal 18 x22^ " " 



11. French White Bristol Boards, Slight Grain. 

Cap 12^x16^ inch perdoz. 

Demy I5xii9i " " 

Medium i6£x2of " " 

Royal 19 x24§ " " 

Imperial 21^x28 " " 



Colombier 24 x^4-i 

Double Elephant. . . 28fx4i-£ 



Extra fine, 4 sheets 



I 00 


1 


50 


1 80 


1 35 


1 


80 


2 50 


1 75 


2 


60 


3 50 


65 




80 


1 00 


1 00 


1 


30 


1 65 


1 25 


1 


50 


1 90 


1 50 


2 


00 


2 50 


1 75 
ets. . . 


2 25 

Per 
dozen. 

$ 7 00 


2 75 

Per 
sheet. 

$ 70 




10 


00 


I OO 



M 25 



$2 25 



12. French Tinted Bristol Boards, thin, 12 different tints. 

Royal 19x24^ inch per doz. 

13. French Tinted Bristol Boards, thick, 12 different tints. 

Royal 19x24^ inch. perdoz. 

14. Bond Papers, for Tracings, very tough. 

16 x 21. 

Per 100 sheets $3 25 

Per quire 1 10 

15. English Parchment, best quality. 

14 x 18 16 x 20 18 x 24 21^ x 29J 23 x 31 inch. 

Per dozen $5 50 $7 20 $9 00 $13 00 $14 00 

Per sheet 50 7c 90 1 30 1 40 

(23 x 31 inch is the size for English Patent Drawings and Specifications.) 

15-k English Government Patent Preambles, Legal Blanks. 

Printed on Parchment each, $1 50 

" " Paper " 15 



ig x 24. 


19 x 30 


$4 00 


$5 00 


1 20 


1 40 



94 A- & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

16. Gelatin or Glass Pater. 

Thin. Medium. Thick. 

13x19 per sheet, $ 30 $ 35 $ 45 

17. Transfer Papers, Blue, Red, Black and Black-lead. 

11$ x I8-J inch per doz., $1 50 Per sheet, $ 15 

18. White Mounting Boards. 

22 x 28 inch, according to thickness. 

No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4. 

Per sheet $ 10 $ 12 $ 15 $ 20 

19. Chagrin Boards, for Passepartouts, white 'and tinted. 

22 x 28 inch per sheet, $ 15 

20. Chagrin Papers, for Passepartouts, white and tinted. 

22 x 28 inch per sheet, $ 10 



DRAWING PAPERS CONTINUOUS IN ROLLS. 

The four different qualities of white Roll Drawing Paper described below answer 
fully what Architects, Engineers and Draughtsmen may require. By ordering the 
papers according to the description given, customers will not fail to receive ex- 
actly what suits their purpose. 

31. A very tough and pliable paper of a yellowish white hue, matchless for work- 
ing drawings used out-of-doors or in the workshop, where drawings are under 
continuous rough handling. This paper has a slightly grained surface similar 
to Whatman's "not pressed ;" it takes color well and stands erasing to the 
greatest extent. 
33. An almost pure white paper of good quality with slightly grained surface, suit- 
able for work in Ink, Color, Pencil or Crayon. It is used for general office- 
work, preliminary drawings, and to a great extent for school purposes. This 
paper is generally known under the name of "German Drawing Paper," 
but is of far better quality than most of those papers imported to this country. 
Our paper No. 4 is the same article in sheets. 
36-37. Good, well sized and tough papers of a yellowish white tint, suitable for 
fine drawings ; it has a grain similar to Whatman's "not pressed," but is some- 
what smoother. It will take ink and color perfectly well. 
38 to 41. Paragon. These papers, of which Keuffel & Esser have exclusive con- 
trol in this country, w-ere introduced by them within the last two years. They 
have, in this very short space of time, taken the lead of all drawing papers, and 
wherever they have been used are acknowledged to be the best. 

The Paragon Papers have no equal in Uniformity of Grain, Strength of 
Tissue, Toughness and Pliability, Sizing that will stand erasing and yet re- 
ceive ink and color perfectly well. 

In consequence of the marvelous success of these papers, paper of similar 
appearance is offered and sold as " Paragon ;" we therefore caution our cus- 
tomers against all papers offered as "Paragon" which do not show on each 
border the water-mark " Paragon," the duly registered trade-mark. 

We warrant the Paragon Paper and exchange all which does not prove as 
represented. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



95 



38, 39, 40, 40-2. Having a sand-grain or pebbled surface (Eggshell), are adapted 
to general drawing, either in lines or in wash ; they are also very desirable for 
water-color drawings, as the colors have a beautiful effect on the peculiar sur- 
face. 

For Elevations, Perspectives and every kind of finished drawings no better 
paper can be found. 
41. Has a grain like Whatman's ' not pressed" on one side ; the reverse is perfectly 
smooth, adapting it for drawings to be reproduced by photographic or any 
other process. 
30. Detail Papers, extra tough, buff color, thin, medium, thick 36, 40, 44, 

48, 54 inch wide, in rolls of 75 to 100 lbs per lb. 14 to 16 

According to thickness and width per yard. 10 to 25 

In rolls of In rolls of 

30 to 40 lbs. 10 yards. Per yard. 



31. White Roll Drawing Papers, medium 62 inch wide, 

33- " " 36 

42 

" 56 

36. " " 55 

37. " thick, 55 

58 
42 



38. Paragon, thin rough, 

39. " medium rough, 



Per lb. 

•45 

.40 
.40 
.40 

•55 
•55 
.50 
•50 
•50 
■50 
•50 
•50 
•50 



Per roll. 
3 75 
2 OO 

2 60 

3 00 

4 50 
6 00 
4 00 

3 50 

4 50 

6 00 

7 50 
4 50 
4 00 



40. " thick rough, 5? 
40-2. " extra thick rough, 58 

41. " medium smooth, 58 
43. Tinted Roll Drawing Papers, rough, 54 

45. Tinted Drab " thick, very good for 

detail drawings, with slight grain, 53 inch wide, .50 4 50 

46. Steinbach's Solar Printing and Crayon Papers, 53 inches wide, in rolls 

of 10, 25 and 50 yards, per yard 

46^. do. do. thick 



.40 
•25 
•30 

•35 
•50 
.70 

•45 
.40 
•50 

•75 
.90 
•50 

•45 

•50 



50 
60 



DRAWING PAPERS, WHITE. 

Mounted on Muslin in Rolls of 10 Yards. 

50. The same paper as described under No. 33. 

51. This is a very thick paper of good quality and clear white color. The rough 

paper has a grain coarser than Whatman's "not pressed," the smooth paper 
has a finer grain. 
52-^, 52, 53, 52s. The same papers as described page 94. Nos. 

50. Best quality, medium thickness, 36 inch wide 

42 " 

54 " 

51. '' thick, rough or smooth surface, 42 inch wide 

54 
52^. Paragon, thin, rough 58 " 

52. " medium, rough 36 " 

42 



3-41. 




Per roll. 


Per yard. 


$ 8 00 


$ 90 


9 00 


I OO 


11 25 


I 25 


12 50 


I 40 


15 00 


1 75 


11 50 


1 25 


8 50 


I OO 


9 50 


I 10 



96 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

Per roll. Per y;ud. 

52. Paragon, medium, rough, 58 inch wide... $12 50 $1 40 
52s. " medium, smooth 58 " ... 12 50 1 40 

53. " thick rough 58 " ... 14 00 1 60 

54. Whatman's Drawing Paper, mounted, 

Royal iS x 24 inch, per sheet 40 

Imperial 22 x 30 " " 50 

D'ble Elephant. 27 x 40 " " 75 

Antiquarian .. .31 x 53 " " 1 50 

Large pieces for City, County or State Maps mounted to order. 

55. Paper cloth, very thin, smooth, 38 inch wide, per yard 50 

Paper Cloth is a new article, made of muslin, to which the paper-pulp is ap- 
plied. It is pliable and strong, either for drawing or printing purposes ; especially 
adapted for pocket maps, plans, time-tables, season tickets, etc. 



TRACING OR VELLUM CLOTH. 

Both Sides Glazed, and One Side Glazed the Other Dull, Suitable 

for Pencil-marks. 

60. Sagar's Patent, white, in rolls of 24 yards. 

18, 30, 36, 42 inch wide. 

Per roll, #4 25 7 50 8 25 11 50 

61. Imperial, white, in rolls of 24 yards. 

30, 36, 42 inch wide. 

Per roll, $7 50 8 25 11 50 



TRACING PAPERS IN SHEETS. 

63. French Vegetable, very tough and transparent. 

Cap 13x17 Inch, thin per quire, 

Demy 15x20 " " " 

Royal 18x24 " " an d thick " 

Imperial 21x27 " " ,... " 

Double Elephant. . .27x38 " thin " 

64. French common, 20x30 inch, medium " 

30 x 40 " " • 

66. Fine, glazed, very transparent and tough, 30x40 inch " 

67. Extra Stout, very tough, suitable for machinists, 30x40 inch, " 



TRACING PAPERS CONTINUOUS IN ROLLS. 

Per Roll. 

70. French, best vegetable, very tough, 54 inch wide, in rolls of 22 yards, $5 00 

71. French common, 42 inch wide, in rolls of 22 yards 3 5° 

72. German, very tough and transparent, 42 inch wide, in rolls of 20 yards, 4 20 

73. German, very best, very lough and transparent, 54 inch wide, in rolls 

of 30 yards 8 00 



I 


50 


2 


5o 


3 


30 


9 


00 


1 


50 


3 


00 


4 


50 


4 


50 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 97 

No. Price. 

74. German, not prepared, for transferring, 54 inch wide, in rolls of 44 

yards $6 00 

76. Extra stout, very tough, suitable for machinists, 40 inch wide, in rolls 

of 20 yards 4 50 

77. Parchment Tracing^ Paper, very tough, 37 inch wide, in rolls of 20 

yards 5 5° 

78. Paragon Tracing Paper, very transparent, almost like glass, very tough, 

56 inch wide, in rolls of 20 yards 5 50 



HEUOGRAPHIC OR BLUE PROCESS PAPER. 

Paper chemically prepared to take copies from tracings by simple exposure to 
sunlight. Full directions furnished with the paper. 

76. Continuous, 26-J inch wide, in rolls of 10 yards per roll, $5 00 

7g.\. In sheets, 26x40 inch per quire, $12 00 per sheet, 60 

" 20x26 " " 6 00 " 30 

(Other sizes made to order.) 

Photo Solution for preparing Heliographic Paper. ... quart bottle, 4 00 

Samples of Drawing Papers will be sent on application. 

Sample Book of Drawing Papers 15 



CROSS SECTION PAPERS. 

Nos. 91, 92, 93 Printed in Orange, Blue or Green. 

91. Cross Section 8 feet to one inch, dimensions of engraving i6£ x22 inch, 

per quire $ 5 00 

per sheet 25 

92. Cross Section 10 x 10 to one inch, dimensions of engraving 16 x 20 

inch, per quire 5 00 

per sheet 25 

93. Cross Section 5 x 5 to \ inch, dimensions of engraving 16 x 20 inch, 

per quire . , 5 00 

per sheet 25 

97. Cross Section, 16 x 16 to one inch, continuous 24 inch wide, printed in 

orange, per yard 40 

94. Cross Section 5 x 5 to one inch, 16 x 21 ruled in blue, per quire 1 50 

95. " 10x10 " 16x21 " " 1 50 

96. " 8x8 " 16x21 " " 1 50 

S9. millimetre, 18 x 24, printed in orange, per sheet. . 25 



98 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

PROFILE PAPERS, 

Printed in Orange or Green. 

No. Price. 
80. Plate A, 15 x 42 inch, horizontal ruling 4, vertical ruling 20 to one inch, 

per quire , 8 50 

per sheet 40 

S3. Plate A, continuous, 22 inch wide, per yard 30 

85- 22 " mounted on cloth, per yard 75 

8r. Plate B, 13J x 42 inch, horizontal ruling 4, vertical ruling 30 to one 

inch, per quire 8 50 

per sheet 40 

84. Plate B, continuous, 22 inch wide, per yard 30 

86. 22 " mounted on cloth, per yard 75 

82. Plate C, 15 x 42 inch, horizontal ruling 5, vertical ruling 25 to one inch, 

per quire .... 8 50 

per sheet . 40 



ENGINEERS' FIELD BOOKS. 

Per Doz. 

100. Field Book, 4^x7-J inch, bound in leather, round corners, 80 leaves, $6 00 

101. Transit Book, 4^x7^ inch, " " " " 6 00 

102. Level Book, 4x6+ inch, " " " " 4 50 



DESIGN BOOKS, 

Leather Back, Cloth Sides or Binding. No. 2. 

Extra 
Size. Pages. Heavy. Heavy. 

7x 8£ 240 ...Price, fi 50 $200 

8 x io£ 240 " 1 75 2 25 

9 x "i 240 " 225 275 

9 x 14 480 ... " 5 00 6 00 

11 x 16 480 " 6 00 8 00 

12 x 18 . . .480 " 8 00 10 00 

The above prices are for Binding No. 2. We also bind in two other styles, No. 
1 and No. 3. The prices in the former are 10 per cent, less, and in the latter 15 
per cent, more than the above list. No. 1 is plain, but very substantial "marbled 
paper" sides. No. 3 has extra stout back, sides like No. 2, leather corners. 

The superior merits of the No. 3 are most apparent on the larger sizes. Flexi- 
ble covers are furnished at same price, but never kept on hand, as they are not 
ordered frequently enough. 

Lettering in gold on sides or back costs a trifle extra, according to style and 
number of letters wanted. Above prices are all for design paper ruled alike on 
both sides ; some other styles can be furnished at same price, but any additional 
expense will be charged extra. More leaves or larger pages increase the price 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



99 



pro rata. More leaves and sizes just double the above in width, and same length, 
will be made to order, with no extra charge except that for the increase of paper, 
but odd sizes will cost more in proportion. Extra labor and waste of stock must 
all be paid for. Estimates cheerfully furnished. 

Note. — Very wide leaves are meeting with much favor. They lay flat in what- 
ever part the book is opened. 



PATTERN OR SAMPLE BOOKS. 

We furnish all the more popular Factory made Scrap and Invoice Books, 
which are often used for Pattern Books ; but the trade prices in these are so closely 
protected that we can offer our patrons no special inducement in them except the 
pains we take in selecting the goods, to avoid sending any that may be unservice- 
able or unsuitable. In regular Pattern Books we can, and do offer very material 
advantages. Our goods are expressly made for us by binders who have had work 
of.this kind to do for years past. Their experience and our facilities for procuring 
first-clr.ss stock enable us to make our price list for the best work at rates far be- 
low those usually charged. Our price list includes only the goods of Messrs. Asa 
L. Shipman's Sons, besides our own manufacture. Cheaper goods will be made 
to order or procured from other parties and supplied at the lowest rates. Binding 
No. i throughout the entire list represents good, substantial binding, leather back, 
marbled paper sides. Binding No. 2, cloth sides, strong leather backs ; and No. 3, 
cloth sides and extra strong and durable backs. 



PATTERN OR SAMPLE BOOKS. 



Leather Back and Cloth Sides or Binding No. 2. 



Kind of Paper. 
Manila, 
White Book, 
Bristol Board, 
Card Board, 
Mat Leaves, 
Manila, 
White Book, 
Bristol Board, 
Card Board, 
Mat Leaves, 
Manila, 
White Book, 
Bristol Board, 
Card Board, 
Mat Leaves, 
Manila, 
White Book, 
Bristol Board, 



size 7xS-i, 



Sxio| 



240 Price, 



9x11^ 



9x14 



4S0. 



Heavy 
Paper. 


Extra 
Heavy 
Paper. 


$1 40 


$1 60 


I 50 


1 75 


2 OO 


2 50 


3 00 


3 75 


5 00 


6 00 


1 60 


2 10 


1 75 


2 25 


2 50 


3 00 


3 50 


4 25 


6 00 


7 00 


2 00 


2 50 


2 25 


2 75 


3 00 


3 50 


4 00 


4 75 


6 50 


7 So 


4 50 


5 75 


5 00 


6 00 


6 00 


7 00 



IOO 



A. & A. F. SPITZ LI'S 



Card Board, size 9x14 480 Price, 

Mat Leaves, " " " 

Manila, " 11x16 " 

White Book, " " " 

Bristol Board, " " " 

Card Board, " " " 

Mat Leaves, " " " 

Manila, " 12x18 " , 

White Book, " " " 

Bristol Board, " " " . 

Card Board, " " " 

Mat Leaves, " " " 

Lettering on the back costs a trifle extra. 

Deduct 10 per cent, from above prices for binding No. 1. 
binding No. 3. 

All the papers used in these books are heavily calendered, and any part of 
them may be written upon with ink. Especially do we call attention to the 
amount of erasure that our papers will endure. 



Heavy 
Paper. 


Extra 
Heavy 
Paper. 


-ice, $7 


00 


$8 OO 


8 


00 


9 OO 


5 


50 


7 50 


6 


00 


8 00 


8 


00 


9 00 


" 10 


00 


II 00 


" 12 


00 


13 00 


7 


25 


9 00 


8 


00 


10 00 


" 10 


00 


11 00 


" 12 


00 


13 00 


14 


00 


15 00 



Add 15 per cent, for 



SHIPMAN'S PATENT SCRAP BOOKS, 



Manila Paper. 
Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, Raised Bands and Spring Backs. 



Demy. 



.10^ 



Medium 12J 



>ize. Pages. 


Description. 


No. 


Price per 
Book. 


X 15 236 


Paper Sides 


I 


$1 85 


236 


Cloth Sides 


2 


2 03 


344 


Paper Sides 


3 


2 31 


344 


Cloth Sides 


4 


2 53 


464 


Paper Sides 


5 


3 01 


464 


Cloth Sides 


6 


3 25 


x 16 236 


Paper Sides 


7 


2 05 


236 


Cloth Sides 


8 


2 25 


344 


Paper Sides 


9 


2 61 


344 


Cloth Sides 


10 


2 77 


x I7i 236 


Paper Sides 


11 


2 25 


236 


Cloth Sides 


12 


2 37 


344 


Paper Sides 


15 


2 76 


344 


Cloth Sides 


16 


2 98 


464 


Paper Sides 


015 


3 67 


464 


Cloth Sides 


016 


3 87 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. IOI 

INVOICE BOOKS, 

Manila Paper, Indexed and Paged. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Cor- 
ners, Raised Bands and Spring Backs. Can be used for Pattern Books. 

Price per 
Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Demy io£ x 15 236 Paper Sides 70 $2 35 

" " 350 " 71 2 89 

" 11x16 236 " 72 2 55 

" " 35o " 73 3 18 

Manila Paper, Ruled, Paged and Indexed. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and 
Corners, Raised Bands and Spring Backs. 

Price per 

Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Demy 11x16 300 Paper Sides 74 $320 

" " 400 " 75 3 82 

Medium 12^ x 17^ 236 " 13 2 90 

" " 236 Cloth Sides 14 3 10 

" " 350 Paper Sides 17 3 72 

" " 350 Cloth Sides 18 392 

" " 470 Paper Sides 19 4 95 

" " 470 Cloth Sides 20 5 15 

Russia Back and Corners. 

" " 500 Paper Sides B 5 70 

Full Rough Sheep. 

" " 500 C 620 

Nos. 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 13, 17, 19 also in full Duck, at same prices, and num- 
bered 70 D, etc. 

Manila Paper. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, Spring Backs. 

Price per 
Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Letter 8|x 11 144 Paper Sides 21M $1 04 

" " 192 " 22M 1 24 

Packet Post 10 x 12 144 Paper Sides 23M 1 14 

" 144 Cloth Sides 24M 1 28 

" " 192 Paper Sides 25M 1 39 

" " 192 Cloth Sides 26M 1 51 

" " 300 Paper Sides 27M 1 82 

Note 6^x9 150 " A 88 

Manila Paper. American Russia Backs and Corners. 

Price per 
Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Packet Post 10 x 12 300 Paper Sides 28m $2 23 

" " 300 Cloth Sides 29M 2 37 

Heavy Paper, Assorted Colors. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, 

Spring Backs. 

Price per 
Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Packet Post 10x12 96 Paper Sides 21 $1 12 

" " 96 Cloth Sides 22 1 19 



3 ages. 


Description. 


No. 


Price per 
Eook. 


144 


Paper Sides 


23 


$1 34 


144 


Cloth Sides 


24 


1 47 


192 


Paper Sides 


25 


1 63 


192 


Cloth Sides 


26 


1 73 


192 


Cloth Sides 


29 


1 93 


144 


Cloth Sides 


029 


1 63 



I02 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



Size. 
Packet Post 10 x 12 



Cap 9^ x 13 



HERBARIUMS. 

White Paper. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, Spring Backs. 

Can be used for Pattern Books. 

Price per 

Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Letter 8| x 11 80 Paper Sides 31 $1 16 

" " 80 Cloth Sides 32 1 28 

" " 120 Paper Sides 33 1 45 

" " 120 Cloth Sides 34 1 57 

Cap gi x 13 80 Paper Sides 35 1 24 

" 80 Cloth Sides 36 1 36 

" " 120 Paper Sides 37 1 53 

" 120 Cloth Sides 3S 1 73 

Note 64 x 9 150 Paper Sides Aw 96 



DRUGGISTS' PRESCRIPTION BOOKS. 

Manila Paper. Dark Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, Spring Backs. 

Can be used for Pattern Books. 

Price per 
Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

Packet Post 10 x 12 300 Paper Sides 45 $1 91 

Demy 10^ x 15 236 Paper Sides 46 2 06 

" " 344 Paper Sides 47 2 52 

Medium 12^ x 17^ 464 Cloth Sides 48 410 

Oblong, White Paper. 

Price per 

Size. Pages. Description. No. Book. 

8 x n| Oblong 150 Half Roan, Cloth Sides 82 $1 50 

" 150 Half Morocco, Cloth Sides 83 1 72 

9 x 12J " 150 Half Roan. Cloth Sides S4 1 72 

150 Half Morocco, Cloth Sides S5 2 00 

11 x 15^ " 200 Half Morocco, Cloth Sides 86 2 70 



COPYING BOOKS. 

Best French Linen Paper, Blue Sheep Backs and Corners, Cloth Sides, Filleted 
on Sides, Lettered on the Back and Indexed. 

Size, gxn 300 Leaves. .. .No. 1 Price per book, $1 70 

500 " . . . . " 2 " 220 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



I03 



Size, 9x11. . . 



700 Leaves. . . .N 
goo 



Size, 10x12 300 

500 

700 

goo 

1000 

Size, 10x14 3°° 

500 

700 

goo 

Size, 6x9 300 

500 

Any size or style of Binding made 



3 Price per book, $2 70 



X.... 
9.... 
10. . . . 

11. . . . 

12. . . 

I3-- 

14 

to order. 



3 


50 


1 


90 


2 


40 


3 


00 


3 


60 


4 


20 


2 


30 


3 


15 


4 


05 


4 


35 


I 


3o 


I 


65 



TRANSFER BOOKS. 

Manufactured by Asa L. Shipman's Sons. 

(Oblong), full cloth, 200 leaves 

Roan back and corners, cloth sides, 200 leaves 

200 
300 
500 
700 
300 
500 

Prices include two pieces of Carbon and a Stylus. 
Carbon and Manifold Paper furnished by the ream or quire. 



200 . . . 


4|x 7 i.... 


201 . . . 


6x9 .... 


202. . . 


7fxio. . . . 


203 .. . 


" . . . . 


204. . 


" .... 


205 . . . 


" . . . . 


2o6 . . 


g^xii 


207. . . 


" . . . . 



.Price, $1 00 



Size. 



SHIPMAN'S PATENT LETTER AND INVOICE FILES. 



ADHESIVE. 

250 Leaves For Letters per doz. 



(< 


...500 


10X12 . 


...250 " 


" 


...500 


8£xg . 


...250 ' 


9x13 . 


. . .250 " 


" 


...500 ' 


9x15 . 


. . .250 


" 


...500 


7x11 


...250 " 


" 


...500 


12^x17$. 


...250 ' 


" 


...500 


11x15 • 


. - 250 ' 



Bath 

Invoices 



Bills, Oblong. . 
Manifests, &c. , 
Prices Current. 



Cloth Sides. 


., $12 


00 


19 


50 


12 


5o 


20 


00 


IO 


44 


12 


00 


19 


5o 


15 


00 


22 


80 


8 


40 


15 


00 


23 


00 


32 


50 


15 


60 



104 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



11x15 
6x9 



10X12 

7x6^ 

Size, 
gxii 

10x12 



. 500 Leaves For Prices Current per dc 



Cloth Sides. 
, $24 00 
IO 20 
15 00 
8 40 
15 00 
7 20 
Paper Sides. 
.250 Leaves For Letters per doz., $11 50 



...250 
. . .500 
. . .250 
• -.250 



Note Letters 

Telegrams,- Oblong 

American Russia Backs . 
Postal Cards 



500 
.250 
.500 
.250 
.500 



Invoices 



9x13 

The above bound in full duck at the same price as cloth sides. 



19 00 
n 50 
19 00 
11 50 
19 00 



Size, 
gxii 



9x13 . 

9x15 . 

I2$Xl7f 



.250 Leaves 

.500 

.250 

.500 

.250 

.500 

.250 

.500 

.250 

.500 



NON-ADHESIVE. 

Cloth Sides. 

. . .No. 101 per doz., $10 80 



102 

103. 

104. 

105. 

106. 

107. 

108. 

109 

no. 



17 5o 

" 10 80 

" 17 50 

" 10 80 

■ " 17 50 

" 13 50 

" 20 70 

" 22 70 
" 28 50 

Parties desiring the Non-Adhesive File, please order by the numbers to avoid 
confusion. 

Any size File made to order at short notice. 



SHIPMAN'S STICKALINE. 

This article is a substitute for Mucilage or Paste, combining the adhesiveness of 
the one with the neatness and cleanliness of the other. Wherever it has been used 
it has become an indispensable article, either in the Home Library, Office or 
Workshop. It especially commends itself, as it does not stain or soil pic- 
tures, clippings, covers, fabrics, torn or loose leaves in books. Its composition 
enables it to retain its sweetness and adhesive properties for months and years, 
and a trial will convince any one that it is the best article in the market for any 
purpose for which mucilage or paste is used. 

No. 1. Half Pint, cork stopper per doz., $3 00 

" 2. glass jar " 3 00 

' ' 3. screw top jar " 3 60 

" 4. Pints, cork stopper " 4 50 

" 5. Quarts, " " 8 00 

Warranted not to mould or be injured by freezing. 

Liberal discount to the trade. 

Bottom discount given to wholesale dealers. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 



PENNELL'S BLACK WRITING INK. 



I05 



Permanent Black Ink, Octagon Stands per gross, $5 00 

' ' Square " " 4 00 

" " 8 ounce perdoz., 1 50 

" " Pints " 2 50 

" " Quarts " 5 00 



PENNELL'S COPYING INK. 

Stands , perdoz., $ 75 

8 ounce " 2 00 

Pints " 350 

Quarts " 6 00 

In ordering be sure to state the fact if Shipman's goods are wanted. 



Io6 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 



Standard Wof^ks on Textile ahd Scientific Subjects. 



We will furnish any book still in print at publishers' prices. The following are 
only the principal ones, which we have personally examined and found as repre- 
sented. Our outfit discounts include orders for books. By this liberal arrange- 
ment one may get a number of books from us cheaper than from any one else. 
Publishers' Catalogues furnished on receipt of price and postage. 
Ashton. — The Theory and Practice of the Art of Designing Fancy Cot- 
ton and Woolen Cloths from Sample. Giving full instructions for re- 
ducing drafts, as well as the methods of Spooling and making out har- 
ness for cross drafts, and finding any required reed, with calculations 
and tables of yarns. By Frederick T. Ashton, Designer. 52 illustra- 
tions. Folio $ 10 00 

Ashenhurst. — The Use and Abuse of Arithmetic in Textile Calculations, 25 

Ashenhurst. — A Practical Treatise on Weaving and Designing of Fabrics, 
with Chapters on the principles of Construction of the Loom, Calcula- 
tions and Color. With about 300 illustrations. 8vo. Bradford, 1879, 10 50 
Auerbach — Crookes. — Anthracen. Its Constitution, Properties, Manu- 
facture, and Derivatives, including Artificial Alizarin, Anthrapurpurin, 
&c, with their applications in Dyeing and Printing. 8vo. London, 

1877 5 00 

Baldwin. — A Treatise on Designing and Weaving Plain and Fancy 

Woolen Cloths. With over 100 illustrations 4 00 

Barlow. — The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by 
Power. With a Chapter on Lace-Making Machinery. By A. Barlow. 
With several hundred illustrations. 8vo. 10 00 

Contents. — Chapter I. Chronological Account of Weaving, etc. II. Ancient 
Looms. III. W r arping and Beaming. IV. The Common Hand-Loom, Headles, 
Reed. V. The Fly Shuttle, Hand Shuttle, Drop Boxes, etc.; John Kay. VI. 
Twills, Satins, Double Cloth. VII. Shedding Motions for Hand Looms. VIII. 
Figured Weaving without the Aid of Automatic Machines. IX. Diaper Weaving. 
X. The Draw Loom and Draw Boy Machine. XL The Jacquard Machine, In- 
troduction. XII. Description of the Jacquard Machine. XIII. The Jacquard 
Harness. XIV. Compound Harness for the Jacquard Loom. XV. Tissue 
Weaving and Swivels. XVI. Circle Swivels and Lappets. XVII. Cross Weav- 
ing. XVIII. Pile Fabrics, Velvets, Carpets, Chenille, etc. XIX. The Dutch 
Loom, The Bar Loom. XX. The Power Loom, M. de Gennes, Barber's Loom, 
Dr. Cartwright, Robert Miller, William Harrocks. XXI. Progress of Power 
Loom Weaving, Almond's Loom, The "Dandy" Loom, Operations Required in 
Power Loom Weaving. XXII. The Common Power Loom, Tappet Motions, 
Bowman's Robert's Woodcroft's, Schoenherr's Hattersley's and Pickles's. XXIII. 
Warp and Cloth Beam Motions, Elastic Loom, Schoenherr's Take-up, Common 
Let-off Motion, Gouilliond's, Schoenherr's, Belleard's, Hall's, Lord's. XXIV. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 107 

The Fork and Grid Weft Stop Motion, Stop Rod, Loose Reed. XXV. Shuttles 
of Various Descriptions, Picking Motions, etc. XXVI. Jacquard Apparatus and 
Examples of Various Shedding Motions, Hattersley's and Smith's, Eccles's The 
Method of Working the Jacquard Machine on the Power Loom, Cylinder Motion. 
XXVII. Drop and Circular Boxes, Diggle's Chain, Whitesmith's Box Motion, 
Leeming's, Long's. XXVIII. Ribbon Shuttles, Wheel Motion, Elastic, Web 
Weaving, Reddaway's Tube or Hose Loom, Three Shuttle Swivel. XXIX. The 
Needle or Shuttleless Loom, Application of the Principle to Swivels, to Double 
Cloth Belt Weaving. XXX. Temples, Warp Stop Motion, Heald Making, Pro- 
cess, of "Twisting-in," and Machines for Same. XXXI. Preparing Jacquard 
Cards, Recutting Machines, Fine Example of Designing, Beaumont's Treatise on 
the Texture of Linen Cloth, Various Tables and Calculations Required by Weav- 
ers. XXXII. The Levers' Lace Frame with Double Action Jacquard Apparatus. 
XXXIII. The Traverse Bobbin ; Net Machine, The Principle of its Action, John 
Heathcoat. XXXIV. The Stocking Loom, Knitting by Hand, William Lee, In- 
vention of the Stocking Loom, James Lee ; Description of the Loom and Process 
of Knitting, Jedediah Strutt, Butterworth, Frost, Crane's Warp Lace Machine, 
Dawson's Wheels, Sir M. I. Brunei's Circular Frame, Boswell's Fishing Net Ma- 
chine, Paterson's. XXXV. Substances Used for Weaving, Cotton, Flax, Wool, 
Hair, Jute, Silk, Process of Spinning, Silk Culture, Shoddy, Selecting Different 
Fibres from Waste Fabrics, Dressing Machine, William Radcliffe, Sizing Machines, 
etc. XXXVI. Summary, General Remarks. Appendix, Statistical Tables, Index 
and Glossary. 

Baird. — The American Cotton Spinner and Manager's and Carder's 
Guide. A practical treatise on cotton spinning, giving the dimensions 
and speed of machinery, draught and twist calculations, etc., with no- 
tices of recent improvements, together with rules and examples for 
making changes in the sizes and numbers of Roving and Yarn. Com- 
piled from the papers of the late Robert H. Baird. i2mo $1 50 

Contents. — Introduction, On the Plan of a Factory Building, On the Main Gear- 
ing, On Water-wheels, Calculations of Horse Power for Propelling Cotton Spin- 
ning Machinery, Willie or Picking Machine, On Willeying Cotton, Spreading Ma- 
chine, On Spreading Cotton, Carding, Cards and Carding, Covering Emery Rollers 
and Emeries, The Drawing Frame, Roving, General Remarks on Drawing and 
Roving, Throstles, Remarks on Throstles, Mule Spinning, General Observations 
on Mule Spinning, Weaving, Belting, Miscellaneous Matters. 
Baird. — Standard Wages Computing Tables. An improvement in all 
former methods of computation, so arranged that wages for days, 
hours, or fractions of hours, at a specified rate per day or hour, may 
be ascertained at a glance. By T. Spangler Baird. Oblong folio. ... $5 00 

Bayley. — Hand-Book of Slide Rule 2 50 

Benson. — Principles of the Science of Color. Illustrated. 4to 7 50 

Benson. — Manual of the Science of Color. Illustrated. i2mo 1 25 

Bevan's British Manufacturing Industries : Acids, Alkalies, Soda, Am- 
monia, Soap, Oil, Candles, Gas 1 75 

Wool, Flax, Cotton, Silk 1 75 

Hosiery, Lace, Carpets, Dyeing and Bleaching I 75 

The Industrial Classes and Industrial Statistics, Textiles, Clothing, &c. 1 75 



108 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

Bezold. — The Theory of Color in its Relation to Art and Art Industry. 
By Dr. William Von Bezold. From the German by S. R. Koehler. 
Illustrated. 8 vo $5 00 

Box. — A Practical Treatise on Heat as Applied to the Useful Arts. Illus- 
trated by fourteen plates. l2mo 5 OO 

Box. — A Practical Treatise on Mill-Gearing. i2mo 3 00 

Box. — Practical Hydraulics. i2mo 2 50 

Bramwell. — The Wool Carder's Fade Mecum. (New Edition Shortly.) 

Bresse. — Hydraulic Motors. 8vo 2 50 

Brown. — Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements. i2mo 1 00 

Brown — A Practical Treatise on the Power-Loom and the Art of Weav- 
ing. i2mo 1 75 

Burns. — American Woolen Manufacturer. Illustrated by patterns. 8vo 6 50 

Calvert. — Dyeing and Calico Printing, including an account of the most 

recent improvements in the manufacture and use of Aniline Colors. 

Illustrated with wood engravings and numerous specimens of printed 

and dyed fabrics. By the late Dr. F. Grace-Calvert. Edited by John 

Stenhouse and Charles Groves. 8vo. Manchester, 1876 8 00 

Chevreul. — The Principles of Harmony and Contrast of Colors, and 

their Application to the Arts. Illustrated. i2mo 3 75 

Cooke. — Rust, Smut, Mildew and Mould ; Microscopic Fungi. i2mo. . . 3 00 
Cooper. — A Treatise on the Use of Belting for the Transmission of 

Power. Fully illustrated. 8vo 3 50 

Craik. — The Practical American Millwright and Miller. By David Craik, 

Millwright. Numerous wood engravings and folding plates. 8vo. . . 5 00 
Crookes. — A Practical Hand-Book of Dyeing and Calico Printing. Illus- 
trated by dyed patterns and wood engravings. 8vo 15 00 

Cullen. — Practical Treatise on the Construction of Horizontal and Verti- 
cal Water Wheels. 4to 5 00 

Davis, Dreyfus and Holland. — Sizing and Mildew in Cotton Goods. 
An exhaustive inquiry into the Chemistry of Sizing, and the Origin 

of Mildew and other discolorations .... 6 50 

Downing. — The Elements of Practical Hydraulics. 8vo 2 75 

Dussauce. — A General Treatise on the Manufacture of Every Description 
of Soap. Comprising the Chemistry of the Art, Alkalies, Saponifiable 
Fatty Bodies, Apparatus, the Assay of Soaps, etc. Illustrated. 8vo. 17 50 

Dyer and Color Makers' Companion. i2mo 1 25 

Fairbairn. — Principles of Mechanism and Machinery of Transmission. 

Illustrated by 150 wood cuts. i2mo 2 50 

Fairbairn. — Treatise on Mills and Mill Work, 1 vol., 8vo 10 00 

Fustian Manufacturing. — The Complete Guide to Fustian Manufac- 
turing, containing How to Manage the Loom, the Art of Analyzing 
Cloth and making Draughts or Tapit Patterns for Velvets, Beavers, 
Sateens, Twills, Velveteens, Cantoons, Fustians, Nankeens, Ging- 
hams, and all sorts of Fancy Cloths, with Reed Table and Examples. 
By a Practical Man. Manchester I 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. IO9 

Foley. — The Cotton Manufacturers' Assistant. i2mo $1 00 

Geldard. — Hand-Book of Cotton Manufacture. i2mo 2 50 

Gibson. — The American Dyer. A Practical Treatise on the Coloring of 
Wool, Cotton, Yarn and Cloth, embracing in all over two hundred 
receipts for Colors and Shades, and ninety-four samples of Colored 

Wool and Cotton Waste, etc. By R. H. Gibson. 8vo 6 00 

Gilroy. — The Art of Weaving by hand and power. By C. G. Gilroy. 

Illustrated. 8vo 10 00 

Glynn. — Water Power as Applied to Mills. i2mo 80 

Haserick. — The Secrets of the Art of Dyeing Wool, Cotton and Linen. 
Including Bleaching and Coloring Wool and Cotton Hosiery and 
Random Yarns. By E. C. Haserick. Illustrated by samples. 8vo. 25 00 
Holdsworth. — Ready Reckoner for Hanks in Worsted Pieces, being 
tables giving the net yarn in hanks required in pieces, from five to 
fifty picks per quarter inch, fifteen to eighty inches in width, and one 
to one hundred yards in length. 506 pages. 8vo. London, 1876... 10 50 
Holland. — The Cotton Spinners' Guide and Manager's Assistant, con- 
taining the Art of Calculation through all the various operations in a 

Cotton Mill. Manchester 50 

Hoyell. — Essay on the Disc and Differential Motions as Applied to the 
Fairbairn, Kennedy and Naylor's Roving Machines. With Rules and 
Calculations for the Bobbin as a follower and leader, and its adjust- 
ment to any size of rove. The Scroll, and how to make it, etc. Il- 
lustrated with diagrams 75 

Hyde. — The Science of Cotton Spinning. By James Hyde. 8vo 5 25 

Jarmain. — Cantor Lectures on Wool Dyeing. London, 1876. Paper, 1 00 

Johnson. — The Practical Draughtsman's Book of Industrial Design and 
Machinists' and Engineers' Drawing Companion. With over Fifty 
Steel Plates. 4to. , one-half Morocco 10 00 

Kutter. — The New Formula for Mean Velocity of Discharge of Rivers 

and Canals. 8vo 5 00 

Langewald. — Latest Practical Method for Self-Acquirement of the 
Science of Weaving. With a general Introduction to the Manufac- 
ture of Woolen Cloth. With 118 plates of designs. 4to 10 00 

Contents of the Book. 
8. Three Harness Drafts. 44. Fourteen Harness Drafts. 

151. Four " " 57. Fifteen " " 

83. Five " " 87. Sixteen " " 
157. Six 47. Seventeen " " 

73. Seven " " 45. Eighteen " " 

361. Eight " " 19. Nineteen " " 

63. Nine " 75. Twenty " " 

229. Ten " " 30. " One " " 

84. Eleven " " 12. " Two " " 
211. Twelve " " 12. " Three " '• 

51. Thirteen " " 57. " Four " " 

303. Drafts with Cross Draws. 

Total number of Drafts 2259. 

The largest collection of ground textures yet published. 



I TO A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

Langewald. — Tables to Lay Out Lots for Warps, Dressing Reeds, etc. 

(Reprinted from the above) $1 oo 

Lawson's Reed Table i oo 

Leffel. — The Construction of Mill Dams. 8vo .• 2 50 

Leigh. — The Science of Modern Cotton Spinning. Embracing Mill 
Architecture ; Machinery for Cotton Ginning, Opening, Scutching, 
Preparing and Spinning, with all the latest improvements. Also, 
Articles on Steam and Water Power, Shafting, Gearing and American 
System of Belting compared ; Generation of and Application of Steam 
criticized and explained ; Boilers, Boiler Explosions, &c. — all tending 
to show where the outlay of capital may be economized and produc- 
tion cheapened. By Evan Leigh, C. E, Second edition. Illustrated 

with 259 cuts and 2q plates. 2 vols. , folio, cloth 35 00 

Leigh. — The Practical Cotton Spinner and Manager's Assistant. 121110. . 1 00 
Leroux, C. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Worsteds and 
Carded Yarns. Comprising Practical Mechanics, with Rules and Cal- 
culations applied to Spinning, Sorting, Cleaning and Scouring 
Wools, the English and French Methods of Combing, Drawing and 
Spinning Worsteds and Manufacturing Carded Yarns. Translated 
from the French of Charles Leroux, Mechanical Engineer and Super- 
intendent of a Spinning Mill ; by Horatio Paine, M. D., and A. A. 
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by twelve large plates. 
To which is added an appendix, containing extracts from the Reports 
of the International Jury, and of the Artisans selected by the commit- 
tee appointed by the Council of the Society of Arts, London, on 
Woolen and Worsted Machinery and Fabrics, as exhibited in the Paris 

Universal Exposition, 1867. 8vo., muslin 5 00 

Love. — The Art of Dyeing, Cleaning, Scouring and Finishing. 8vo. ... 5 00 

Macfarlane. — A Practical Treatise on Dyeing and Calico Printing 10 00 

McLaren. — Report to the Worshipful Cloth Workers' Company of Lon- 
don on the Weaving and Other Technical Schools of the Continent. 

By W. S. B. McLaren, M. A., and J. Beaumont. i2mo 1 00 

Moss. — The Cotton Manufacturer's, Manager's and Spinner's New Pocket 

Guide. By John Moss. i2mo 1 75 

Murphy. — A Treatise on the Art of Weaving. With Calculations and 

Tables. 8vo 20 00 

Napier. — A Manual of Dyeing and Dyeing Receipts for Dyeing any Colors 
on Cotton, Silk and Wool. With Colored Patterns of Cloth of each 

fabric. 8vo 10 50 

Napier. — A System of Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 8vo 5 00 

Neville. — Hydraulic Tables, Co-Efficients and Formulae for finding the 
discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches, Weirs, Pipes and Rivers. 

i2mo 5 00 

O'Neil. — A Dictionary of Dyeing and Calico Printing. 8vo 5 00 

O'Neill. — The Practice and Principles of Calico Printing, Bleaching, Dye- 
ing, &c. 2 vols., 8vo. Manchester, 1878 15 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. I I I 

Rankine. — A Manual of Machinery and Mill Work. i2mo $5 00 

Reimann. — On Aniline and its Derivatives. 8vo 2 00 

Rose. — The Complete Practical Machinist. Embracing Lathe-work, Vise- 
work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and Dies, Hardening and Tempering, 

&c, &c. By Joshua Rose. 130 engravings. i2mo .... 2 50 

Scott's Practical Cotton-Spinner and Manufacturer. Eighth Edition. 

Plates. 8vo 6 00 

Slater. — The Manual of Colors and Dye Wares. i2mo 3 75 

Smith. — Practical Dyer's Guide. Containing 500 Dyed Patterns, to each 

of which a genuine receipt is given. Second Edition. 238 pages. 8vo. 25 00 
Smith. — The Dyer's Instructor. Containing nearly 800 Receipts. i2mo. 3 00 
Smith. — The Dyer's Instructor. Comprising Practical Instructions in the 
Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton, Wool, and Worsted and Woolen Goods. 
Third Edition, with many Additional Receipts for Dyeing the New 
Alkaline Blues and Night Greens, with Dyed Patterns affixed. i2mo., 

pp. 394, cloth. London, 1876 10 50 

Thomson. — The Sizing of Cotton Goods and the Causes and Prevention of 

Mildew. Illustrated. 8vo. Manchester, 1879 ... 4 50 

Townsend. — A Complete Ready Reckoner for Cotton Warps. Showing 
the number of hanks in warps of any length, from 1 to 1,000 yards, 
and for any number of ends, from 1 to 6,000, with tables for all the 
different counts that are made, from 4's single up to 200's single, or 
400's two-fold, by which the weight of any description of warp may be 
seen from the number of hanks it contains, in pounds, ounces, and 

drachms. 8vo 12 50 

Wagner. — A Hand-Book of Chemical Technology. Translated and ed- 
ited by William Crookes, F. R. S. With 336 Illustrations. 8vo. ... 5 00 
Watson. — The Art of Spinning and Thread-Making. With Calculations 
and Tables for the use of the Carding and Spinning Master. 8vo. 

Glasgow, 1876 5 00 

Watson. — Theory and Practice of the Art of Weaving. Illustrated. 8vo. 7 50 

Contents. — Introductory Remarks. Chapter I. On Yarns. II. Weaving. 
III. On Starting Power Looms. IV. Power Looms. V. Damask Looms. 
VI. Wool Weaving. VII. Lappet and Gauze Weaving, etc, VIII. Mount- 
ing, etc. IX. Calculations, Tables, etc. X. Miscellaneous. 
Webb. — Warp-sizing. A Practical, Theoretical and Chemical Treatise. 

8vo. Manchester, 1877 3 75 

Webber. — Manual of Power for Machines, Shafts and Belts, together with 

the History of the Cotton Manufacture in America. 8vo 3 50 

Weisbach. — Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. With 380 Illustrations. 

8vo 600 

White. — A Practical Treatise on Weaving by Hand and Power. 8vo. ... 10 00 



112 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

BOOKS ON THE MICROSCOPE 

AND OTHER SCIENTIFIC INSTRUMENTS. 

Any work in the following list will be mailed free to any address in the United 
States or Canada on receipt of the price. 

Brewster. — A Treatise on Optics. By Sir David Brewster. 520 pages, 

fully illustrated $2 50 

Dick. — The Telescope and Microscope. By Rev. Thomas Dick. 192 

pages 50 

Wood. — Common Objects of the Microscope. With 400 illustrations, 

printed in colors 50 

Cooke. — 1,000 Objects for the Microscope. With 400 illustrations. 

By M. C. Cooke 50 

Cooke. — Microscopic Fungi. An Introduction to the Study of Rust, 
Smut, Mildew and Mould. Illustrated by nearly 300 figures, colored. 
By M. C. Cooke, author of British Fungi, etc 2 50 

Hogg. — The Microscope. Its History, Construction and Application. 
Being a familiar introduction to the Use of the Instrument and the 
Study of Microscopical Science, with Directions for Collecting, Pre- 
serving and Mounting Objects. Illustrated with upwards of 500 en- 
gravings and colored illustrations. 750 pages 3 50 

Beale. — How to Work with the Microscope. By Lionel S. Beale, M.D., 

F.R.S. Fourth edition, greatly enlarged 7 50 

Beale. — The Microscope and its Application to Clinical Medicine. By 

Lionel S. Beale, M.D., F. R. S. Fifth edition, 1S80 750 

The Aneroid Barometer. Its Construction and Use. Compiled from 
several sources, and reprinted from Van Nostrand's Magazine. 106 
pages 50 

Carpenter. — The Microscope and its Revelations. By Dr. W. B. Car- 
penter. Latest edition, 25 plates and 449 wood engravings. 848 
pages 5 50 

Griffith. — Elementary Text-Book of the Microscope, with a Description 
of the Methods of Preparing and Mounting Objects, etc. With 12 
colored plates, 451 figures. By J. W. Griffith, M. D., F. R. S 3 75 

Davies. — Hand-Book on Preparing and Mounting Microscopic Objects. 
Latest edition, fully illustrated and brought up to the present time. 
By Thomas Davies 125 

Lankester. — Half hours with the Microscope. A Popular Guide to the 
use of that instrument, 130 pages. Profusely illustrated. By Edwin 
Lankester, M. D 1 25 

Stowell. — The Student's Manual of Histology. A Text-Book for the 
Student, and a Complete Guide for the Practitioner and Microscopist. 
By Prof. Charles H. Stowell of the University of Michigan. 300 
pages, octavo, with 192 engravings 2 00 

GlBBES. — Practical Histology and Pathology, 107 pages. New. By H. 

Gibbes, London 1 00 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 113 

Suffolk. — On Microscopical Manipulation. Being the subject-matter of 
a Course of Lectures delivered before the Queckett Microscopical 
Club. By W. T. Suffolk, F.R.M.S., with 49 engravings and 7 litho- 
graphs $2 00 

Goose.— Evenings at the Microscope. 477 pages. Profusely illustrated. 

By Philip Henry Goose, F.R.S 1 50 

Seiler. — A Compendium of Microscopical Technology for the Use of 
Students and Physicians. 130 pages and numerous illustrations of 
apparatus. By Dr. Carl Seiler, Philadelphia I 60 

Martin. — A Manual of Microscopic Mounting. Profusely illustrated 

with wood cuts and drawings on stone. By John H. Martin 3 00 

Phinn. — Practical Hints on the Selection and Use of the Microscope. By 

John Phinn. 131 pages, illustrated. 75 

Slack. — Marvels of Pond Life. Fourth edition, with colored plates and 

numerous wood-cuts . 2 00 

Smith. — How to See with the Microscope. By Prof. J. Edwards Smith. 

With profuse illustrations 2 00 

Beck. — A Treatise on the Construction, Proper Use and Capabilities of 
R. & J. Beck's Achromatic Microscopes. By Richard Beck. Royal 
8vo., with 27 plates 5 00 

Proctor. — Half Hours with the Telescope, with numerous illustrations 

on stone and wood. By Richard A. Proctor, F.R. A.S 1 25 

Frey. — The Microscope and Microscopical Technology. A text-book for 
Physicians and Students. By Dr. Heinrich Frey, Professor of Medi- 
cine in Zurich, Switzerland. Translated from the German and Edited 
by George R. Cutter, M.D., Clinical Assistant to the New York Eye 
and Ear Infirmary. Illustrated by 343 engravings on wood, and con- 
taining the price lists of the principal Microscope-makers of Europe 
and America. From the last German edition. In one handsome 8vo. 
volume, bound in extra cloth, new edition 6 00 

The Micrographic Dictionary. — A guide to the examination and in- 
vestigation of the structure and nature of Microscopic Objects. By 
J. W. Griffiths and Arthur Henfrey. 845 pages. Illustrated by 48 
plates and over 800 wood engravings. Third edition. London, 1875. 22 00 

Wythe. — The Microscopist. Last edition greatly enlarged and profusely 

illustrated. By Dr. J. H. Wythe 4 50 



WINSOR AND NEWTON'S BOOKS ON ART. 

each 40 CENTS. 

1. The Art of Sketching from Nature, by Th. L. Rowbotham. 

2. Hints of Sketching in Water Colors from Nature, by Thomas Hatton. 

3. The Art of Landscape Painting in Water Colors, by Th. Rowbotham. 

4. A System of Water Color Painting, by A. Penley. 

5. The Art of Marine Painting in Water Colors, by J, W. Carmichel. 

6. The Art of Portrait Painting in Water Colors, by M. Merrifield. 

7. The Art of Miniature Painting, by Ch. W. Day. 

8. The Art of Flower Painting, by M. Duffield. 

8 



114 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

g. The Elements of Perspective, by Penley. 
10. The Art of Figure Drawing, by C. H. Weigall. 
n. An Artistic Treatise on the Human Figure, by H. Warren, K. L. 

12. Artistic Anatomy of the Human Figure, by H. Warren, K. L. 

13. The Artistic Anatomy of the Horse, by B. W. Hawkins. 

14. The Artistic Anatomy of Cattle and Sheep, by B. W. Hawkins. 

15. The Art of Painting and Drawing in Colored Crayons, by H. Murray. 

16. The Principles of Coloring in Painting, by Charles M artel. 

17. The Principles of Form in Ornamental Art, by Charles Martel. 

18. The Art of Mural Decoration, by T. G. Goodwin. 

19. A Manual of Illumination, by J. J. Laing. 

20. Companion to Manual of Illumination, by J. J. Laing. 

21. Transparency Painting on Linen, by W. Williams. 

22. The Art of Transparent Painting on Glass, by Ed. Groom. 

23. The Art of Wood Engraving, by Th. Gilks. 

24. Drawing Models and their Uses, by J. D. Harding. 

25. The Art of Botanical Drawing, by F. W. Burbidge. 



GEORGE ROWNEY & CO.'S BOOKS ON ART. 

EACH 40 CENTS. 

30. Hints on Sketching from Nature, by N. E. Green Part I. 

31. " " " " " " " " II. 

32. " " " " " " " " HI. 

33. Guide to Figure Painting in Water Colors, by S. T. Whiteford. 

34. Guide to Sketching from Nature in Water Colors, by L. C. Mills. 

35. Principal of Perspective, by H. Lewis. 

36. Guide to Water Color Painting, by R. P. Noble. 

37. Guide to Light and Shade Drawing, by Mrs. M. Merrifield. 

38. Guide to Pencil and Chalk Drawing, by G. Harley. 

39. Guide to Pictorial Perspective, by B. R. Green. 

40. Guide to Pictorial Art, by H. O'Neil. 

41. Guide to Figure Drawing, by G. E. Hicks. 

42. Guide to Flower Painting in Water Colors, by G. Rosenberg. 

43. Guide to Painting on Glass, by H. Bielfeld. 

44. Guide to Miniature Painting and Coloring Photographs, by J. S. Templeton. 

45. Hints for Sketching Trees from Nature in Water Colors, by Th. Hatton. 

46. Guide to Animal Drawing, by C. H. Weigall. 



W. HERMES STUDIES. 

SYSTEMATIC DRAWING-SCHOOL. 
For Schools and Self-Instruction. 
(250 books each containing 6 studies 5§ x %% inch, each 25 cents. 
Easy Lessons for Beginners. 

a. Lines, Squares, etc. No. 1, 2, 3. 4. 

b. Geometrical Figures. No. 5, 6, 7, 8. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. I J 5 

c. Figures of Straight Lines. No. g, 10. 11, 12. 

d. Figures of Straight Lines Shaded. No. 13, 14, 15, 16. 

II. Arabesques and Ornaments. 

a. Outlines. No. 21, 22, 23. 

b. Shaded. No. 24, 26, 27. 

c. Outlines. (Vases.) No. 28, 29. 

d. Ornaments, Greek, etc. No. 32, 34, 35, 36. 

e. Ornaments for Decoration, printed in tint. No. 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45. 

III. Studies in Still Life. 

Outlines. No. 52, 55, 57, 58, 59. 

IV. Landscapes. 

a. Outlines. No. 61, 62, 65, 66, 67, 68, 71, 72. 

b. Light Shaded. No. 75, 76, 71, 78, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 89, 90. 

c. Full Shaded. No. 96, 97, 98, 99, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109. 

no, in, 112. 

V. Foliage of Trees and Shrubbery. 
No. 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125. 

VI. Ships. 

a. Outlines. No. 130. 

b. Light Shaded. No. 131. 

c. Full Shaded. No. 132, 133. 

VII. Flowers and Fruits. 

a. Flowers, outlines. No. 140, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145. 
Fruits, outlines. No. 150, 151. 152, 153, 154. 

b. Flowers, light shaded. No. 160, 161, 162, 163, 164, 165, 166, 167. 
Fruits, light shaded. No. 171, 172. 

c. Flowers, full shaded. No. 175, 176, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186. 
Fruits, full shaded. No. 191, 192. 

Fruits and Flowers. No. 195, 196, 197, 198. 

VIII. Animals. 

a. Animals, outlines, No. 210, 211, 212, 213, 215, 216, 217. 
Horses, outlines. No. 221, 222. 

b. Animals, light shaded. No. 235, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231. 
Horses, light shaded. No. 235, 236. 

c. Animals, full shaded. No. 237, 238, 239, 240, 241. 
Horses, full shaded. No. 245, 246, 247, 248. 
Birds. No. 251, 252. 

XI. Human Figures. 

a. Parts, outlines. No. 261, 262, 263, 264. 
Eyes, outlines and light shaded. No. 268. 
Faces, outlines and light shaded. No. 269, 270. 

b. Parts, shaded. No. 272, 273, 274, 275. 

c. Heads, outlines. No. 278, 279, 280, 281, 282, 283. 

d. Heads, light shaded. No. 284, 285, 286, 287, 288. 

e. Heads, full shaded. No. 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 300, 301, 302, 303, 

304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310. 



n6 



A. & A. F. SPITZI.I'S 



f. Full Figures, outlines. No. 315, 316. 

g. Full Figures, light shaded. No. 320 321, 322, 323, 324. 

h. Full Figures, full shaded. No. 331, 332, 333, 334. 



WILHELM HERMES' DRAWING STUDIES 

FOR ADVANCED STUDENTS. 

(125 books, each including 4 studies 8f x 11^ inch, each 50 cents.) 

1. Landscapes full shaded, about 50 books. 

2. Flowers and Fruits 

3. Human Figures and Heads. . . 

4. Arabesques 

5. Animals 

6. Horses 

7. Foliage of Trees and Shrubbery 



10 
20 
10 
10 

5 
20 



We can furnish any of the books in D. Van Nostrand's Catalogue of American 
and Foreign Scientific Books. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. l I 7 



CONTENTS OF CATALOGUE. 



Pages. 

Achromatic, Marine, Field and Spy Glasses, Telescopes 50 

Advertisements 1 19-128 

Aluminium Field and Marine Glasses 50 

Apparatus and Accessories 33-35-48 

Astronomical Telescopes 50 

Beck's Patent Clinical Thermometers 55 

Books on the Microscope 112 

Brushes, Dissecting 44 

Business Notice 4 

Cabinets and Cases 45-48 

Camera Lucida 54 

Charcoal Pencils 81 

Chemicals and Chemical Cabinets 82-88 

China and Glassware . 76 

Claude Loraine 52 

Compound Microscopes 9-18-21-22 

Copying Books 102 

Cross Section Papers . . 97 

Design Papers 90-92 

Design Books 98 

Darwing Boards 68 

Drawing Books 11 3-1 16 

Drawing Papers 92-98 

Drawing Pins and Tacks 69 

Drawing Tables 68 

Druggists' Prescription Books, (good for pattern books,) 102 

Empty Cases 76 

Engineers' Field Books, (can be used for pocket Design Books) 98 

Erasing Rubber 79 

Files for All Kinds of Papers 103-104 

Folding Easels 90 

Hand Mirrors 53 

Hard Rubber Drawing Tools 67 

Heliographic Paper 97 

Inks, Black, etc 105 

Inks, Chinese 75 

Inks, Indelible 75 

Ink^, Indian .' 75 

Introduction 6 

Invoice Books 101 

Klaeger Insect Pins 53 



I I 8 A. & A. F. SPITZLI'S 

Pages. 

Lamps 3^-39 

Lenses 27-28 

Lead Pencils 76-S2 

Magic Lanterns 53 

Magnifying Glasses . . 23-26 

Mathematical Instruments 56-67 

Mounting Materials 41-43 

Needles, (Dissecting) 40 

Nicol's Prisms 52 

Objects, (Microscopic) 44 

Objectives 2 3 _ 33 _ 34 

Object Glasses 28 

Opera Glasses 50 

Optical Instruments g 

Outfits * 7 

Parcel Pens 78 

Pattern, Sample or Scrap Books 99-102 

Portfolios 90 

Preface 5 

Prisms ... 29 

Reading Glasses 29-32 

Round Writing Pens 78-79 

Scales , 88-90 

Scientific Books 107-109 

Scissors 40-41 

Single Microscopes 19-20 

Spectacle Lenses 51—52 

Sponge Rubber 79 

Standard Works on Textile Subjects 106 

Standard Yard Measure 89 

Staining and Injecting Fluids .' 43 

Stickaline 104 

Steel Pens 82 

Sundry Optical Instruments 50 

Tracing Papers ... 96 

Transfer Books 103 

Water Colors 70-75 

Weights 88 



ACME TENTER CLOTHING, 



Patented November 4, 1879. 




IN USE BY 



James Roy & Co., West Troy, N. Y. 

Charles Spencer & Co., Germantown, Pa. 

C. H. & F. H. Stott, Stottville. N. Y. 

Rock Manufacturing Co , Rockville, Conn. 

Globe Woolen Mills, Utica, N. Y. 

A. T. Stewart & Co., New York. 

W. S. Taylor & Bloodgood, Jr., Rahway, N.J. 

American Mills, Rockville, Conn. 

Blake & Co., Racine, Wis. 

Hockanum Co., Rockville, Conn. 

Lacon Woolen Mfg Co , Lacon, 111. 

A. Linn, Esq., Hartland, Me. 



Mallieu & Brothers, Millington, Md. 
G. P. Dennis, Esq , Chester, Pa. 
Shaw, Esrey & Co., Chester, Pa. 
Devenport Woolen Mills, Devenport, la. 
Sevill Schofield, Esq., Philadelphia, Pa. 
Merrimack Woolen Co., Lowell, Mass. 
Tingue, House & Co., Glenville, Conn. 
Plunkett Woolen Co,, Hinsdale, Mass. 
C. F. Underhill, Esq., Franklin, N. J. 
Aldrich & Milner, Moosup, Conn. 
Nicol Woolen Mills Co., St. Clair, Mich. 
Pontoosuc Woolen Mfg Co., Pittsfield, Mass. 



AND MANY OTHERS. 




SE3£T3D ^o^, :f:r,ice list. 

THOS. J. LACY, Sole Manufacturer, 

WEST TROY, N. Y. 



119 



YARNS. 

MOHAIR, WORSTED AND GENAPPES, 

FOR MANUFACTURERS. 



SPECIALTY. 

YARNS for EFFECTS in Cassimeres, Coatings, 
Cotton Warps, &c, &c. 

SINGLE YARNS in FAST COLORS, and all 

sizes, for Twisting ; in stock and made to order. 

TWISTED YARNS, as: Red and Black, Black 
and Blue, &c, &c, on dresser spools or in skeins. 

KNOTTED YARNS in all Colors; and 

PRINTED YARNS, in Various Effects, made to 
order. 



Samples Sent on Application. 



TINGUE, HOUSE & CO. 

56 reade street, 
i^t^tvt -stoieik: citt. 

P. O. BOX NO. 2S4-S. 

120 



A Practical Treatise on Weaving and 
Designing of Textile Fabrics, 

WITH CHAPTERS ON THE 

Principle of Construction of tie Loom, Calculation and Color, 

UPWARDS OF 300 ILLUSTRATIONS. 

BY THOMAS R. ASHENHURST. 



SLIDE RULE FOR MANUFACTURERS 

A complete and handy Ready Reckoner for finding the hank of 
Worsted in a piece of Fabric, or the weight of Warps. 

BY THOMAS R. ASHENHURST. 



SLIDE RULE FOR WORSTED SPINNERS. 

Gives at one setting the length of roving on a bobbin ; also, at one 
setting, the draft and wheel for a spinning frame to spin any 
count. No gauge points used. Simple and convenient for 
the pocket. 

BY THOMAS R. ASHENHURST, 

BRADFORD, ENGLAND. 



ORDERS MAY BE SENT TO 
121 



n 



jirr 



Olf), shkrmm * raws 



IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 



DYE WOODS, 



DYE STUFFS, 



DRUGS, Etc., Etc. 



OFFICE: 



NO. 12 WILLIAM STREET, 



NEW YORK CITY 



MILLS AT POUGHKEEPSIE, N. Y. 



122 



ESTABLISHED ±&27. 



Manufactures of the Jos. Dixon Crucible Co. 

DIXON'S CRUCIBLES, 
DIXON'S LUMBER PENCILS, 
DIXON'S LUBRICATING PLUMBAGO, 
DIXON'S FOUNDERS' PERFECT WASH, 
DIXON'S CARBURET OF IRON STOVE POLISH, 
DIXON'S FINE OFFICE AND DRAWING PENCILS, 
DIXON'S AMERICAN GRAPHITE PAINT, 
DIXON'S EX. EX. PLUMBAGO FACING, 
DIXON'S EVERLASTING GRAPHITE GREASE, 
DIXON'S SPECIALTIES FOR FOUNDERS, 
DIXON'S FINDINGS FOR STEEL MELTERS. 



HIGHEST PRIZES AWARDED. 

AMERICAN INSTITUTE, NEW YORK 1839, 1848, 1849, 1853, 1857, 1878 

FRANKLIN INSTITUTE, PHILADELPHIA 1848, 1849 

MASSACHUSETTS MECHANICS' ASSOCIATION, BOSTON 1839, 1844,1847,1849 

MARYLAND INSTITUTE, BALTIMORE 1859, 1872 

CINCINNATI EXPOSITION 1870, 1871, 1872 

BUFFALO (N. Y.) EXPOSITION, 1871. ST. LOUIS... 1871 

PARIS, 1867 SILVER MEDAL 

VIENNA, 1873 ... THREE MEDALS 

CENTENNIAL, 1876 TWO MEDALS 

PARIS, 1878, TWO GOLD MEDALS, 

And the Only Gold Medal awarded for Pencils at that Exhibition, over all the 

European Makers. 
PARIS, 1878 BRONZE MEDAL. 

ffpW We have never exhibited without receiving the Highest Awards in our Classes. 

THE JOSEPH DIXON CRUCIBLE COMPANY, 

ORESTES CLEVELAND, President. 
WM. A. BROWN, Treasurer. 
JOHN A. WALKER, Secretary. 

teissey city, Int. t. 

WORKS AND OFFICES: 
229 to 239 RAILROAD AVENUE, 

158 to 175 'WAYNE STREET, 

337 to 3SO MONMOUTH STREET. 

GRAPHITE MINES AND MILLS AT TICONDEROGA, N. Y. 

OLDEST HOUSE IN THE GRAPHITE TRADE, 

And the Only Manufacturers in the World owning Graphite Mines. 

123 



The Manufacturers' Review 

INDUSTRIAL RECORD. 



A MONTHLY PAPER DEVOTED TO TEXTILE INTERESTS. 



J. M. PETERS, Editor. THE INDUSTRIAL RECORD CO., Publishers. 



Subscription Price for U. S. and Canada, including postage, per annum, - $i 50 

With Dyer's Supplement, - - - - - - 5 00 

Foreign Subscription, including Postage, - - - 1 75 

With Dyer's Supplement, - - - - - - 5 50 



ALL BILLS ARE COLLECTIBLE AT THE OFFICE. 

All payments for advertising or subscriptions to this journal 
should be in Checks, Drafts, or Post Office Orders, and be drawn 
to the order of WILLIAM O. ALLISON, Treas., and to no other 
person. 

NEW YORK OFFICE, No. 42 CEDAR STREET. 

P. 0. BOX 1396, NEW YORK. 



ADVERTISING DEPARTMENT: 

J. FRANKLIN RID AY, General Manager, 
42 CEDAR STREET, NEW YORK. 

Prompt attention will be given to applications for advertising space 



AUTHORIZED AGENTS: 

WALT. B. GUILD, Traveling Agent. 

JAMES WHITEHEAD, Jr., Springville, Utah. 

H. MAHLER, 16 Rue de la Grange, Barteliere, Paris. 

124 



Mohawk & Hudson M'f'g Co., 



IRON AND BRASS FOUNDERS 



ajstt> — 



MACHINISTS, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



HYDRANTS 



VALVES, 



MISCELLANEOUS MACHINERY 



WATERFORD, N. Y. 



125 



R 



KJ 



H 



D 



Notice is hereby called to the fact that we are prepared to furnish any kind of 



RUBBER STAMPS, AND RUBBER TYPE : 

With all the Necessary Accessories, 



AT MANUFACTURERS 5 PRICES. 



We send out the manufacturers' price lists, on receipt of applications enclosing 
postage. 



A new article in this line made specially for us, is of great importance to design- 
ers who have time and the desire to keep their books in elegant shape : 



"THE DESIGNER'S TYPE," 

FOR CHAIN DRAFTS. 



A draft may be set up in -a pallet, proved and corrected, and finally printed in a 
book or on a sheet of paper, in nearly the same time it would take to copy it 
neatly, and when done it is by far more clear and elegant than a written draft or 
design. 



SZEIKTID POIK SPECIMENS, 



A. & A. F. SPITZLI, 



WEST TROY, N.Y. 



126 



LAWSON'S 



REED TABLE 



IS REFERRED TO IN 



SPITZLI'S MANUAL, 

Under the. head of "Tables," where the following comments 
may be found : 

' ' LA. W SON'S ^iLJEn TA.BLJE is more 
complete in detail than tTiose herein con- 
tained, and is in the form of a Sheet, 
Tsrhich may be framed, or moTinted. 

<( Some prefer this form to those foiand 
in books j becajzse the entire Table is ire fall 



-vie-w. " 



Carefully Compiled for the Use of Superintendents, 
Overseers and Fixers in Woolen Mills. 



-TffiWSON'S^ 

REED TABLE. 



COPYRIGHTED. 



This valuable table gives, at a glance, the 
width in inches of any warp in any given reed 
from S to 20 1-2 reed inclusive, and shows each 
and every reed that can be used for any desir- 
ed width of cloth. 



Sent by Mail Prepaid, and Securely Wrapped, on 
Receipt of One Dollar. 



WALTER U. LAWSON, 
Box 227, LOWELL, MASS. 

128 



TOLHURST MACHINE WORKS, 

TROY, N". Y. 



HYDRO EXTRACTORS 

FOR KNIT GOODS, 

Yarn, Wool and other Loose Material. Also for Goods 
which have been treated with Acid, &c, &c. 



ROLL EXTRACTORS 

For Extracting Water from Worsted Fabrics, and all Goods with a 
"Cloth Finish," while upon the Steaming or Boiling Rolls. 



These Machines are especially adapted for the 
purposes mentioned, and 

ARE ACKNOWLEDGED THE BEST IN THE MARKET. 



